"I'm NEVER going to be one of those guys who are obsessed with temperature control!"

[TasunkaWitko]

So will this hook up to a standard mini-fridge?

http://www.homebrewsupply.com/inkbird-all-purpose-temperature-controller-with-alarm-output.html

...and is there any significant difference between that and this:

http://www.homebrewsupply.com/inkbird-all-purpose-temperature-controller-two-relays.html

Thanks in advance -

Ron

 

[TasunkaWitko]

After reading descriptions and looking at each item, they SEEM to be essentially identical, except for the fact that one of them is out of stock. In spite of the different titles, both have alarms and both have two relays, and all else seems to be the same.

With that in mind, I'll probably order the one that is in-stock, and see what happens. I'm brewing 1-gallon batches and have been using a closet and space heater in the most temperature-stable part of a house that is over 100 years old in a region of a state known for extreme day-to-day (and day-to-night) temperature variations, so it is not as if they have to be super-sophisticated or perfect.

 

[jerbrew]

Those stc-1000 controllers work pretty good. I use one on my mini fridge and have no problems. The firmware on those things can be modified and updated. That's the only difference. In fact, somewhere around here is an awesome thread about some firmware projects people have done with those cheap controllers.

 

[NewJersey]

I have an stc1000+
It works, but is a terrible pain to navigate and use different controls. it can ramp up or down temps. I have never used that ever as its way too difficult to setup.
Thinking about getting an inkbird instead and REALLY looking forward to somebody putting out a good temp controller that is actually easy to use. Maybe a larger easy to use touch screen. Control through an Android app. Anything would be better than this thing.

 

[tracyk]

I have mine set up on my keezer and to me they are fairly easy to program. I do not have the 1000+ that has been flashed. Don't really think I need that for the keezer. I do have an Inkbird one for my fermenter that allows me to program different temps for different days, which to me works great. It is the Inkbird Programmable Digital Temperature Controller.

 

[DurtyChemist]

Both of those require additional parts. You'll need a box to house it, a power cord, and some heat shrink tubing. Buy the Inkbird 308.
After shipping and sourcing local parts, not counting time, the $40 option is worth it. Plug and play as soon as you open it and it works exactly the same. It also looks much cleaner. If you opt for the $50 one you can set the number of days you want to ferment at various temperatures. Imagine being able to plan 7 days fermentation for a lager, increase for a Diacetyl rest, then chill to fermentation temps and cold crash all without going back to the controller.

 

[DurtyChemist]

http://www.homebrewfinds.com Has it for $32

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

I have the one listed in the link(not sure what one they look the same) As stated you need a housing and cutting an extension cord.Works perfectly fine but if I had to do it again I'd just get the prebuilt Inkbird.For the minimal savings of building one its not worth it.
I had no idea you could preprogram these.Is that just on the newer models or will it work on the ones listed in links on the first post?

 

[J2W2]

This is a little off topic, but I'll toss it in as a side note. When I built my keezer, I repurposed my Edge Star kegerator as a fermentation chamber, with a Johnson controller on it.

The Edge Star never got much below 40 degrees, which was fine for a kegerator but not so great for a fermentation fridge if you want to cold crash. After trying their thermostat adjustment, which didn't make much difference, I ended up snipping one of the wires that runs to their temperature controller. So now it runs continuously as long as it has power. With the controller, I can cold crash to whatever temp I want. Heck, I could freeze my beer if I want to dabble in an ice beer!

Anyway, long point short, I'd verify how cold your mini-fridge can get or you may not end up with everything you're hoping for.


Here's a shot of mine right now, with a Scottish Ale going on day 8. You might be able to see that it's at 68 right now (the room is around 77) and the temperature control on the fridge is actually in the off position.

 

[EPbrew]

+1 for the ITC-308. I have one and it works really well. I'm probably going to buy another one.

 

[ericbw]

The ones you showed in your OP is JUST the controller. You have to do some wiring and mechanical stuff (it has no outlet to plug the fridge into).

The homebrewfinds link is a good bet at that price. Cheaper than most pre-built controllers.

But definitely do this. The controller will be useful for years even if you change other equipment.

 

[bionut]

I ordered the ITC-308. Didn't knew that only the ITC-308T is programmable for step fermentation. Anyway, this was the only model that had EU socket plug.

 

[Moose_MI]

+1 for inkbird....I have 3 ....good stuff

 

[NoIguanaForZ]

I have STC-1000 controllers hooked up to both of my minifridges. (In one project box, actually.)

Aside from feeling vaguely ashamed every time I have to look up a temperature conversion to Celsius, they've served me well and the price is right.

From reading, though, apparently I should have gone with some kind of Inkbird. >.>

Well, sh...oh, right.

 

[TasunkaWitko]

Hey, guys - thanks for all of the replies. I wish I had known about that 308. I had already ordered the other one when I read the post introducing the 308. No worries, though, my dad has worked with electronics etc. all his life, and I'll see if he can lend a hand. It might not be ideal, but we'll get it figured out. Next time, I'll look for the 308.

Since the one in the OP is the one I'm getting this time, does anyone have detailed instructions (or a link to a post) outlining the installation of one of these into a standard mini-fridge? At the very minimum, I'll need a list of parts needed, and a fairly comprehensive step-by-step procedure would be nice, as well.

Thanks -

Ron

 

[Erik_Mog]

Another vote for the Inkbird ITC-308.

 

[TasunkaWitko]

Bumping this up in the hopes that someone might have a list of parts needed or a step-by-step procedure (or both) for installing the temp controller (shown in the OP) in a mini-fridge.

Thanks -

Ron

 

[khannon]

Both of those require additional parts. You'll need a box to house it, a power cord, and some heat shrink tubing. Buy the Inkbird 308.
After shipping and sourcing local parts, not counting time, the $40 option is worth it. Plug and play as soon as you open it and it works exactly the same. It also looks much cleaner. If you opt for the $50 one you can set the number of days you want to ferment at various temperatures. Imagine being able to plan 7 days fermentation for a lager, increase for a Diacetyl rest, then chill to fermentation temps and cold crash all without going back to the controller.

I agree, my inkbird is awesome, but if you don't go back to the fermenter, how do you smell the airlock/blowoff?

 

[Apple_Jacker]

Question regarding the Inkbird - Is it really just as simple as plugging the fridge/freezer into the thing, putting the temp. probe inside (from what I keep reading, putting it in a glass of water),and calling it a day?

I plan on converting my chest freezer into a keezer. Do I need to worry about a heat source too if the temp goes too cold, or does the Inkbird shut it off before it gets to that point?

 

[bionut]

The only parts you will need are some wire for wiring the controller with the fridge. The wiring diagram is on the controller itself.

 

[TasunkaWitko]

Thank you, bionut - I thought someone said something about a housing, but I could be wrong.


Vă mulțumesc, și au o zi buna!


Ron

 

[ericbw]

Look in the diy section on here. I assume it's the same as the stc-1000. It's very simple.

You will need an enclosure. Radio shack sold them as "project boxes." Not sure where to find those. A cigar box would work but not durable.

And you need an outlet and wires. Buy a short heavy extension cord, then you'll have the plug and enough wires.

But look at the DIY threads or google it. It's easy enough that I could do it!

 

[ericbw]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1468283847.184895.jpg

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1468283867.233065.jpg

This is mine. Heats and cools.

You'll also note that I made a conversion chart and taped it to the top. It's at 10C which is 50F right now.

 

[ericbw]

Question regarding the Inkbird - Is it really just as simple as plugging the fridge/freezer into the thing, putting the temp. probe inside (from what I keep reading, putting it in a glass of water),and calling it a day?

I plan on converting my chest freezer into a keezer. Do I need to worry about a heat source too if the temp goes too cold, or does the Inkbird shut it off before it gets to that point?

It should be set to come on when the temp rises .5 degrees above your set point. When it cools to that point, it shuts off. You won't need heat for a keezer.

And yes, it should be that easy. A ferm chamber is slightly more complicated because you might want to change the temp for different beers or sometimes (winter) heat it up.

I have an STC-1000 but I assume the principle is the same.

 

[TasunkaWitko]

Thanks fold the help, Eric!

 

[Apple_Jacker]

It should be set to come on when the temp rises .5 degrees above your set point. When it cools to that point, it shuts off. You won't need heat for a keezer.

And yes, it should be that easy. A ferm chamber is slightly more complicated because you might want to change the temp for different beers or sometimes (winter) heat it up.

I have an STC-1000 but I assume the principle is the same.

Excellent, thanks! I took some time yesterday to read through the ink bird thread yesterday, and yhe general consensus is that it is very useful and user friendly, except for the packed-in instructions. But the online instructions are easier to read and follow.
My original plan was to build this last winter... obviously that did not happen. However, I might be able to do this as a fall or winter project this year. Now I just need to figure out hiw to safely cut a hole into the lid of the freezer and I'll be good to go!

 

[ericbw]

Excellent, thanks! I took some time yesterday to read through the ink bird thread yesterday, and yhe general consensus is that it is very useful and user friendly, except for the packed-in instructions. But the online instructions are easier to read and follow.
My original plan was to build this last winter... obviously that did not happen. However, I might be able to do this as a fall or winter project this year. Now I just need to figure out hiw to safely cut a hole into the lid of the freezer and I'll be good to go!

Depending on how many lines and taps you'll have, you need about a 1" hole saw and a drill. (A hole saw is actually a kind of drill bit.) If it's one tap tower with multiple taps, then you need a larger bit so you can feel multiple beer lines through. A kit for installing a doorknob would have a larger hole saw.

I have a keg fridge with 4 taps and 2 gas lines going in. I think I wrecked 2 hole saws to get everything drilled.

Wear goggles and push hard! After you make the hole, put duct tape around the edge to cover any sharp parts.

 

[Apple_Jacker]

Depending on how many lines and taps you'll have, you need about a 1" hole saw and a drill. (A hole saw is actually a kind of drill bit.) If it's one tap tower with multiple taps, then you need a larger bit so you can feel multiple beer lines through. A kit for installing a doorknob would have a larger hole saw.

I have a keg fridge with 4 taps and 2 gas lines going in. I think I wrecked 2 hole saws to get everything drilled.

Wear goggles and push hard! After you make the hole, put duct tape around the edge to cover any sharp parts.

I own a doorknob kit, as well as several other hole saws. I haven't decided yet how many taps I want, but I know I can fit 4-5 kegs in my freezer. Maybe it depends on the model, but do I need to worry about hitting any refrigerant/coolant lines in the lid? I was under the impression that the lid is nothing but plastic and insulation.

 

[ericbw]

I own a doorknob kit, as well as several other hole saws. I haven't decided yet how many taps I want, but I know I can fit 4-5 kegs in my freezer. Maybe it depends on the model, but do I need to worry about hitting any refrigerant/coolant lines in the lid? I was under the impression that the lid is nothing but plastic and insulation.

From what I understand, there are usually not any lines in the lid of a chest freezer. You should be able to tell if you look where the lid connects. If there's no tube going into the lid, you're good.

HOWEVER, it still makes sense to cut through the lining and insulation on the inside of the lid first, right in the spot where you're drilling. It will be easier to work with AND you'll see if there are any lines in it.

I don't think so, but caution makes sense!

 

[SpeedYellow]

Question regarding the Inkbird - Is it really just as simple as plugging the fridge/freezer into the thing, putting the temp. probe inside (from what I keep reading, putting it in a glass of water),and calling it a day?

I plan on converting my chest freezer into a keezer. Do I need to worry about a heat source too if the temp goes too cold, or does the Inkbird shut it off before it gets to that point?

Two points:
1) Yes, you absolutely need a heater if you plan to do any lagering. Or else you'll overshoot big time. I use a couple seed germination mats wrapped around the fermenter but there are many ways to do it.

2) No, don't put your probe in water -- folks who do this simply haven't thought it through. You ideally want the probe measuring the beer temp. If you don't want to use a thermowell, then the next best location is insulated to the side of the fermenter. The next best is the air. The next best (i.e. the worst possible) would be buffered in a glass of water. The water basically does the same thing as programming in some additional differential into the controller. For fermenting, you want to minimize temp fluctuations in the beer, so you don't want to add differential.

 

[ericbw]

Two points:

1) Yes, you absolutely need a heater if you plan to do any lagering. Or else you'll overshoot big time. I use a couple seed germination mats wrapped around the fermenter but there are many ways to do it.



2) No, don't put your probe in water -- folks who do this simply haven't thought it through. You ideally want the probe measuring the beer temp. If you don't want to use a thermowell, then the next best location is insulated to the side of the fermenter. The next best is the air. The next best (i.e. the worst possible) would be buffered in a glass of water. The water basically does the same thing as programming in some additional differential into the controller. For fermenting, you want to minimize temp fluctuations in the beer, so you don't want to add differential.

All true for a fermentation chamber.

I think he's making a keezer for serving. Temp is stable.

 

[SpeedYellow]

All true for a fermentation chamber.

I think he's making a keezer for serving. Temp is stable.

He wrote above that he's using it to ferment 1-gal batches in a mini-fridge, not a serving keezer.

 

[Apple_Jacker]

He wrote above that he's using it to ferment 1-gal batches in a mini-fridge, not a serving keezer.

Nope I'm making a keezer, but I appreciate the info for future endeavors. I may have inadvertently hijacked this thread.

 

[SpeedYellow]

Nope I'm making a keezer, but I appreciate the info for future endeavors. I may have inadvertently hijacked this thread.

Then you don't need a heater for a keezer, but my comments about the silliness of the water bottle still hold. You may be tempted to put the probe in water if your keezer is cycling the compressor excessively, but the better solution is to just increase the controller's differential instead of sticking the probe in water. The water would increase the differential too, but you'll have no idea how much. Just leave the probe in air and set the differential around 3-4F and adjust up if it cycles the compressor too often.