Igloo mash tun conversion leaking

[mxpx5678]

Bought a weldless spigot to add to my igloo cooler today from the more beer store.

I got it in the igloo cooler but it is leaking. Any ideas for how to get it not to leak? It is leaking on the outside from where the hole in the cooler is.

 

[TromboneGuy]

Um, grab a wrench and tighten the fittings down a little more?

You could add another washer or o-ring to get a tighter seal.

 

[Bobby_M]

That bulkhead design just leaks. Morebeer sold that? Sad.

Water is going between the coupling and washer, then spiraling through the threads underneath the oring. The only fix without buying extra parts is to load up those threads with teflon tape.

 

[mxpx5678]

That bulkhead design just leaks. Morebeer sold that? Sad.

Water is going between the coupling and washer, then spiraling through the threads underneath the oring. The only fix without buying extra parts is to load up those threads with teflon tape.

Yeah I might go back and get two more washers and another one of the orange o rings that is on the inside. I think that would fix it.

 

[szucconi]

I had a similar problem. I couldnt get a washer of the right size. One that would seal everything up tight. I solved it by going to the baby department of a store and getting some round silicone things that are used to seal bottles for storage (because they were clearance) and using the nipple edge to push though the silicone to create a washer that was both huge and tight to the nipple. Made several and it seemed to fix the issue. The washers have to be a really good fit so when you tighten and they expand, they cover the gaps. You still need tape, but that's how I fixed mine.

 

[day_trippr]

Seems like the Morebeer setup comes with three steel washers already.

If wort is getting into the nipple threads (which it could do from within the coupler itself, never mind between the coupler end and the metal washer) adding o-rings isn't likely to cure that, but taping the nipple threads from coupler to valve should.

In the pic above you can see the white tape at the coupler...

Cheers!

 

[mxpx5678]

Seems like the Morebeer setup comes with three steel washers already.

If wort is getting into the nipple threads (which it could do from within the coupler itself, never mind between the coupler end and the metal washer) adding o-rings isn't likely to cure that, but taping the nipple threads from coupler to valve should.

In the pic above you can see the white tape at the coupler...

Cheers!

Yeah that is the one I should have got. They sold me the other one. Maybe I will see if they will switch it out.

http://morebeer.com/view_product/19793/102220/Weldless_Spigot_-_Stainless

 

[day_trippr]

Yeah that is the one I should have got. They sold me the other one. Maybe I will see if they will switch it out.

http://morebeer.com/view_product/19793/102220/Weldless_Spigot_-_Stainless

Ah, ok, they sent you the weldless kettle setup instead of the cooler setup.
Still, aside from the missing washers, you could most likely make yours work with some tape - which you'd need even with the cooler setup anyway...

Cheers!

 

[mxpx5678]

Ah, ok, they sent you the weldless kettle setup instead of the cooler setup.
Still, aside from the missing washers, you could most likely make yours work with some tape - which you'd need even with the cooler setup anyway...

Cheers!

I bought it at the store. Their employee picked it out for me. So I will just go back tomorrow.

 

[MaltyHops]

...
Water is going between the coupling and washer, then spiraling through the threads underneath the oring. The only fix without buying extra parts is to load up those threads with teflon tape.

I had similar issues recently and loading up with teflon tape
was my fix. Below are some pixes and text from a build log
article I wrote that looked at this.

 

[Bobby_M]

Yeah, the problem is that the bulkhead in question is using a washer as the sealing surface and there is no locknut. The reason a locknut works is because it is a large flat sealing surface that can also be sealed to the nipple with some teflon tape. The washer being loose against a coupling is a major flaw. Throwing another washer and oring at it, for the exterior I assume, does not fix the problem.

The best way to troubleshoot bulkhead leaks is to think like a single H2O molecule and how you might find your way through. I'd go right for the gap between the washer and coupling. Of course it's no problem, that gap has to be at least 1 mil. Once you get past that, you encounter the threads of the nipple. The oring, which is being propped up on the peaks (OD) of the threads is no match. The only way it could work is if it's sitting on the flat of the nipple, assuming it's not a full threaded close nipple.

 

[mxpx5678]

Yeah, the problem is that the bulkhead in question is using a washer as the sealing surface and there is no locknut. The reason a locknut works is because it is a large flat sealing surface that can also be sealed to the nipple with some teflon tape. The washer being loose against a coupling is a major flaw. Throwing another washer and oring at it, for the exterior I assume, does not fix the problem.

The best way to troubleshoot bulkhead leaks is to think like a single H2O molecule and how you might find your way through. I'd go right for the gap between the washer and coupling. Of course it's no problem, that gap has to be at least 1 mil. Once you get past that, you encounter the threads of the nipple. The oring, which is being propped up on the peaks (OD) of the threads is no match. The only way it could work is if it's sitting on the flat of the nipple, assuming it's not a full threaded close nipple.

Ok so I exchanged the part today. I got the one meant for a cooler and it seems to have installed much better. There is also a lock nut on the outside.

 

[day_trippr]

Um....When you were putting that on your cooler, did you happen to notice if the nut had a ring carved into one side?

Cheers!

 

[mxpx5678]

Um....When you were putting that on your cooler, did you happen to notice if the nut had a ring carved into one side?

Cheers!

I didn't notice. I just took it apart in the store and assembled it to make sure it didn't leak.

 

[day_trippr]

I didn't notice. I just took it apart in the store and assembled it to make sure it didn't leak.

Well, if that nut does have a round groove carved into one side, it'd be the same setup I have on my totally-leak-free 10g Rubbermaid MLT. In which case, the actual order of installation from outside in is:

Ball valve
Washers
Nipple
[cooler wall]
O-ring
Nut with groove facing that O-ring
Coupler
Barb [forgot that part]

Cheers!

 

[mxpx5678]

Well, if that nut does have a round groove carved into one side, it'd be the same setup I have on my totally-leak-free 10g Rubbermaid MLT. In which case, the actual order of installation from outside in is:

Ball valve
Washers
Nipple
[cooler wall]
O-ring
Nut with groove facing that O-ring
Coupler
Barb [forgot that part]

Cheers!

Can you take a picture? Thanks.

 

[day_trippr]

Can you take a picture? Thanks.

Soitenly!

Outside. There are actually three ss washers here, two of them I ground down to fit in the circular recess, the third one is the full width.

Inside. The only o-ring in this setup is up against the cooler wall. The nut is placed with the groove capturing the o-ring and tightened down, followed by the coupling, and finally the barb.

There's enough tape under the nut and coupler to keep wort from finding its way into the nipple threads. From Day One this setup has never leaked a drop, even when I completely filled the cooler with hot water and left it for a week for an initial test.

Of course, if the nut in your kit doesn't have that o-ring groove, all bets are off, and you should just do whatever works for you...

hth

Cheers!

 

[Bobby_M]

Without the oring groove, the flat "washer" style gasket works really well.