PrimalBrewer
Active Member
Yeah, I've measured the hole, but I am not sure of the diameter of the tower shaft. For a 3" tower is it less than 3? Or do I just need room for the lines. I have about 2" diameter now.
Igloo Kegerator at Walmart - $369
- Thread starter jkovac
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I didn't have to redrill the stock hole, and I have a liquid cooled 3 tap tower (3 beer lines coming down and two copper liquid lines). I *did* have to drill mounting holes for the new tower, though. I tried simple long screws, but the top is so weak that it quickly pulled the screws out while pulling back on the tap handles. Therefore, I took 6" (I think) long bolts, and drilled them all the way through to the interior of the unit, so the tower is bolted to the unit.
Back to the question, in my case I didn't need to redrill the hole, only mounting points for the new tower. For my particular tower, anything below the mounting plate is either beer line, copper tubing, or insulation, so there's no reason to really need to bore out anything else. I only CHOSE to drill a new hole so that the tap was centered on the unit since I added the vertical collar.
Back to the question, in my case I didn't need to redrill the hole, only mounting points for the new tower. For my particular tower, anything below the mounting plate is either beer line, copper tubing, or insulation, so there's no reason to really need to bore out anything else. I only CHOSE to drill a new hole so that the tap was centered on the unit since I added the vertical collar.
PrimalBrewer
Active Member
Excellent, thanks! I'll go ahead and just bolt a small tower down and call it a day (two tap uncooled). I'll link some pics of the result in case it will help anyone else.
On a side note, do you think adding that interior insulation did much for you?
On a side note, do you think adding that interior insulation did much for you?
Insulation... Yes, but only for the vertical collar. From what I've read, wood is not a very good insulator. I wouldn't have considered any additional insulation if I were sticking with only the stock fridge.
joshrosborne
Well-Known Member
Saw this is on sale for $299 with free shipping at Walmart right now. If I bought it, would I need any conversion stuff to use it with ball lock homebrew kegs?
Rooster286
Member
Yes, assuming 2 kegs, you'll need new gas line, new beer line, quick disconnects - 4 total (2 gas, 2 liquid), the proper nipple for the regulator to hook up your new gas line, a picnic tap for the second keg, a "T" to split the gas line into two from the regulator (or a proper 2,3,4 line gas manifold if you don't want to be cheap like me).
This kegerator will hold 3 ball locks without modification (what I run it with now, so if you plan on running 3 kegs, up the parts list accordingly). I also HIGHLY recommend a container of damp rid (or something like the EvaDry 3000) to remove excess condensation, otherwise you'll get lots of frost on the chilling plate very quickly, especially if you are using picnic taps on your other kegs and opening it up often.
Be very careful with the regulator, mine was leaky as hell and it took me two bottles of CO2 to figure out where. Since it's a pretty cheap regulator, I actually sealed it up with epoxy at the connections and it works perfectly now. The kegerator will hold a 5lb CO2 tank on the hump with 3 kegs too, should you ever want to upgrade.
The "keg" components of this are pretty cheesy, but for 300 bucks you can't go wrong.
This kegerator will hold 3 ball locks without modification (what I run it with now, so if you plan on running 3 kegs, up the parts list accordingly). I also HIGHLY recommend a container of damp rid (or something like the EvaDry 3000) to remove excess condensation, otherwise you'll get lots of frost on the chilling plate very quickly, especially if you are using picnic taps on your other kegs and opening it up often.
Be very careful with the regulator, mine was leaky as hell and it took me two bottles of CO2 to figure out where. Since it's a pretty cheap regulator, I actually sealed it up with epoxy at the connections and it works perfectly now. The kegerator will hold a 5lb CO2 tank on the hump with 3 kegs too, should you ever want to upgrade.
The "keg" components of this are pretty cheesy, but for 300 bucks you can't go wrong.
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Rooster286
Member
Oh one other thing, assuming you have the chilling plate free of excessive frost, I have no trouble keeping 3 kegs at 39 degrees at the lowest. If for some reason you like your beer colder, you can take apart the temp dial and set it even lower, but I have no experience with this.
It's posted earlier in the thread that someone didn't think 3 ball locks would fit without modification (and included 3 cardboard mockups which don't completely fit on the floor...they neglected to include the fact that the door is bowed out and gives you another 3.5. inches of usable space, so a third will fit fine. I'm not sure with pin lock since I think they are shorter but fatter, but ball lock will definitely work.
It's posted earlier in the thread that someone didn't think 3 ball locks would fit without modification (and included 3 cardboard mockups which don't completely fit on the floor...they neglected to include the fact that the door is bowed out and gives you another 3.5. inches of usable space, so a third will fit fine. I'm not sure with pin lock since I think they are shorter but fatter, but ball lock will definitely work.
I bought this also at Walmart. $299+ tax shipped to my door.
So you have 3 ball lock cornies fitting for sure? That's awesome.
Can you link me to the 3 tap tower you are using? Did you have to make any special modifications to get the tower to fit?
Is there any way you could post pix of your setup? Thanks!
Also, I had a danby years ago I purchased from Sams club for about $200 more than this one. I ended up taking it back because the compressor didn't kick on until too broad of a temperature swing. The beer would foam badly. Are there any mods anyone can suggest to make this more useable. Perhaps a PC fan to blow the cold air into the tower?
Thanks for any help!
J
So you have 3 ball lock cornies fitting for sure? That's awesome.
Can you link me to the 3 tap tower you are using? Did you have to make any special modifications to get the tower to fit?
Is there any way you could post pix of your setup? Thanks!
Also, I had a danby years ago I purchased from Sams club for about $200 more than this one. I ended up taking it back because the compressor didn't kick on until too broad of a temperature swing. The beer would foam badly. Are there any mods anyone can suggest to make this more useable. Perhaps a PC fan to blow the cold air into the tower?
Thanks for any help!
J
Rooster286
Member
I only have the single tower it came wtih, and I use two picnic taps for the other two kegs in there (yes I currently have 3 ball lock kegs in there). I have a 5lb CO2 tank as well on the hump and I think a growler or two up there as well. Not at home now, but if I get the chance I'll add a picture.
If you ever upgrade the tower you will have to drill the hole out...the single tap uses some proprietary "snap in" system which is a MASSIVE bitch to get on with the gasket. One thing I forgot to mention, apparently when this first came out, the gasket for the tap had three holes in it (which line up to three holes in the tower mounting hole, presumably to prevent a vaccum lock when you're trying to attach it. For some reason (most likely sourcing from other suppliers), the newer kegerators have gaskets that have no holes. A friend and I both bought this and both struggled for over an hour trying to get it on with the gasket before I found an old manual online that showed a 3 hole gasket. I used a hole punch to punch my own and it went on in about 30 seconds.
From what I've read, drilling out the tower is pretty easy as long as you have the proper tools, shouldn't take more than an hour to install a new tap if you go that route.
If you ever upgrade the tower you will have to drill the hole out...the single tap uses some proprietary "snap in" system which is a MASSIVE bitch to get on with the gasket. One thing I forgot to mention, apparently when this first came out, the gasket for the tap had three holes in it (which line up to three holes in the tower mounting hole, presumably to prevent a vaccum lock when you're trying to attach it. For some reason (most likely sourcing from other suppliers), the newer kegerators have gaskets that have no holes. A friend and I both bought this and both struggled for over an hour trying to get it on with the gasket before I found an old manual online that showed a 3 hole gasket. I used a hole punch to punch my own and it went on in about 30 seconds.
From what I've read, drilling out the tower is pretty easy as long as you have the proper tools, shouldn't take more than an hour to install a new tap if you go that route.
TheDawg28
Active Member
My children bought me a Igloo Kegerator from Wal-Mart this year for Christmas. Yes I already know I have awesome children. Anyway Im not having much luck with the regulator. First off let me explain it. It has a red knob on it that has a + and - on it which is self explanatory. It barely turns and is hard as hell to turn. Below that is a red switch that turn a quarter turn, like its a shut off. But that doesnt seem to change anything at all. It seems no matter what I do it stays right at 10psi. Any suggestions of what im doing wrong?
TheDawg28
Active Member
By the way I also switched out 2.5 co2 tank for a 5#'er. I also noticed tonight that the beer was flowing pretty slowly at after pouring two pints one after another. What am I doing wrong. One of the gauges is at the 500 bar mark with 10# pressure.
nofear782
Member
I just recently bought the igloo FRB200 and i have. I have a problem with foamy beer and its deff not cold enough, going to try the thermostat trick. Just dont want to break anything still new to the kegerator world
Rooster286
Member
@TheDawg
The pressure dial should not be hard to turn. The other "switch" is the shutoff. It should face downward for fully open (which is what it should be). 10# of pressure should be more than enough for serving. Are you using this with a commercial keg? Are you sure the Sanke fitting is on the keg properly? It should pour a full pint in 8-12 seconds depending on pressure. It's possible there is a problem with your regulator, or the dial is displaying the wrong pressure if that is the case. It could also be a leak...if you run out of CO2 in the next few days, that is the culprit and it might not be manifesting itself until the keg/lines hit a certain amount of pressure (aka it's fine up to 9.5psi then slow leak at 10psi). If you are having leak issues, you'll have to spray everything with soapy water while it is under pressure and you'll see bubbles for sure. You'll notice in a previous post I was leaking at the barb on the regulator and just used epoxy to seal it up since it's a pretty crappy regulator. If I ever break it or need a new one, the plan is to get a quality one anyway and the epoxy is perfect for sealing up pipe threads and CO2 leaks. Could also try teflon tape I guess.
@NoFear, a thermometer in the kegerator shouldn't register more than maybe 41 degrees if it's on max cold and you have no ice buildup on the chiller plate in the back. If it does and you have adequate ventilation behind the unit, return it.
Foamy beer isn't always a temp problem either. There is an issue with the tower being uncooled so any beer within the lines in that section will be warm and really foamy at first, the problem should go away after you pour the first few ounces of beer after not having used it for a while (what I do is just pour the first bit into another cup if i'm pouring proper pints). Also, I generally suggust you have 7-8 ft minimum of beer line to minimize foaming as well. When I got my Igloo, I replaced the line from the tower down (pain in the ass). You could use an inline barb or something to extend the existing line too I guess.
The pressure dial should not be hard to turn. The other "switch" is the shutoff. It should face downward for fully open (which is what it should be). 10# of pressure should be more than enough for serving. Are you using this with a commercial keg? Are you sure the Sanke fitting is on the keg properly? It should pour a full pint in 8-12 seconds depending on pressure. It's possible there is a problem with your regulator, or the dial is displaying the wrong pressure if that is the case. It could also be a leak...if you run out of CO2 in the next few days, that is the culprit and it might not be manifesting itself until the keg/lines hit a certain amount of pressure (aka it's fine up to 9.5psi then slow leak at 10psi). If you are having leak issues, you'll have to spray everything with soapy water while it is under pressure and you'll see bubbles for sure. You'll notice in a previous post I was leaking at the barb on the regulator and just used epoxy to seal it up since it's a pretty crappy regulator. If I ever break it or need a new one, the plan is to get a quality one anyway and the epoxy is perfect for sealing up pipe threads and CO2 leaks. Could also try teflon tape I guess.
@NoFear, a thermometer in the kegerator shouldn't register more than maybe 41 degrees if it's on max cold and you have no ice buildup on the chiller plate in the back. If it does and you have adequate ventilation behind the unit, return it.
Foamy beer isn't always a temp problem either. There is an issue with the tower being uncooled so any beer within the lines in that section will be warm and really foamy at first, the problem should go away after you pour the first few ounces of beer after not having used it for a while (what I do is just pour the first bit into another cup if i'm pouring proper pints). Also, I generally suggust you have 7-8 ft minimum of beer line to minimize foaming as well. When I got my Igloo, I replaced the line from the tower down (pain in the ass). You could use an inline barb or something to extend the existing line too I guess.
TheDawg28
Active Member
Thanks for the help. I did some checking and I had forgot to loosen the set screw on the knob. Turns freely know. It seems that I am keeping a constant 10# know. Pours are consistent now.
nofear782
Member
Yea i never did set screw either, wasnt in directions. I also did the water temperature after sitting 10 hrs and it was down to 38 so im happy there. I deff have to get a longer beer line and tower fan, still getting alot of foam after intial first pour with 8psi. Yeungling usually settles after a min or two so i can deal with it for now. There should be a kegerator for dummies book
Happy Holidays,
Has anyone accessed the tower on this yet? There does not seem to be a very safe way from what I can see but this is my first Kegerator. I want to go get some copper pipe for the beer line and do what someone either here or on another similar site suggested. You get a slightly larger diameter copper pipe and cut it 2-3" longer than the length of the tower. Slide this over the beer tube and the piece that sticks out in the fridge area will carry the cold temp up its length keeping the line cold ontil it hits the tap. Just file or smooth the inner edges to prevent the line from being cut and slide it over the existing beer line. I want to back the line off on an area that might be easier to remove the adapter. The adapter on the other end of the beer line that goes to the “D” style coupler is a crimp type and I am nervous that I will damage it and not be able to use the kegerator until I get a replacement. Thoughts? The tower has a silver cap, I tried using just my hands but it did not work. I do not see a set screw so it might just be on tight or it could be glued, not sure.
Thanks,
John M.
Has anyone accessed the tower on this yet? There does not seem to be a very safe way from what I can see but this is my first Kegerator. I want to go get some copper pipe for the beer line and do what someone either here or on another similar site suggested. You get a slightly larger diameter copper pipe and cut it 2-3" longer than the length of the tower. Slide this over the beer tube and the piece that sticks out in the fridge area will carry the cold temp up its length keeping the line cold ontil it hits the tap. Just file or smooth the inner edges to prevent the line from being cut and slide it over the existing beer line. I want to back the line off on an area that might be easier to remove the adapter. The adapter on the other end of the beer line that goes to the “D” style coupler is a crimp type and I am nervous that I will damage it and not be able to use the kegerator until I get a replacement. Thoughts? The tower has a silver cap, I tried using just my hands but it did not work. I do not see a set screw so it might just be on tight or it could be glued, not sure.
Thanks,
John M.
Please do not forget that you can also move the thermometer, it might be better to do so. that back wall if the freezer and it is getting a very cold reading, not the ambient temp of the fridge. You should be able to do so quite easily. Just follow the line from the temp adjusting device, back out a few screws and move that line somewhere else in the fridge that has a better ambient temp reading.
I hope whatever I put on this forum has been helpful. I have added the copper pipe and it is working better than I expected. I have been getting foam free pours and it is great. I also noticed that the temp on my fridge was steadily rising. I decide to move the temp gauge from behind the freezer plate and what a difference it made. I had to go into the thermostat to lower the chill factor however. After moving the temperature gauge/wand the fridge would not stop cooling even on the lowest setting. That would be fine if I wanted frozen beer. I simply opened the temp control box and turned the screw clockwise or in what would be considered the tightening direction. I left the power on and kept the control knob just below the medium setting. I turned the screw very slow until it shut off. I then closed the control box and tried to adjust the temp knob, when I raised it from just below medium to slightly higher it turned on. I will have to keep an eye on the temp for the next day or so but this worked perfectly.
John M.
John M.
Dan2539
Well-Known Member
Could you guys please post some pics of your newly mounted taps? I just got one of these for Christmas and would like to see how your mounts look before attempting one myself. Thanks!
Which Holiday model? I'm struggling with the same question of buying or DIY.
gauvinej
Active Member
I ended up buying a used tower that looks very similar to the one on this kegerator. Is it a 2.5" tower? I painted mine white but the drip tray looks the same as well. I found a way I could make it into a 3 tap tower. Hope this helps everyone out.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/2-5-tower-extension-project-372679/
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/2-5-tower-extension-project-372679/
Dan2539
Well-Known Member
I decided to go a different route since I only want two taps. I've searched the forums after the poster above me suggested the sleeve extending the tower to three taps. Looks like you can make a 2.5 inch tower into two taps with a little finesse.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/2-faucets-2-5-draft-tower-313516/
I bought another 2.5 inch tower to work with that should fit the locking coupler that comes with the fridge so I won't have to make any mods on the fridge like drilling. If I had used the original draft tower, I could have drilled new flange holes to accommodate a 45 degree turn of the tower instead of a 90 (there are only four holes on the tower flange). The tower is cheap, and if I ever have any problems with the keggerator, I can always return it unmodified with the original tower.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNZKWE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I'll see where this goes, it would be nice to keep the fridge as stock as possible. I'll keep you guys updated.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/2-faucets-2-5-draft-tower-313516/
I bought another 2.5 inch tower to work with that should fit the locking coupler that comes with the fridge so I won't have to make any mods on the fridge like drilling. If I had used the original draft tower, I could have drilled new flange holes to accommodate a 45 degree turn of the tower instead of a 90 (there are only four holes on the tower flange). The tower is cheap, and if I ever have any problems with the keggerator, I can always return it unmodified with the original tower.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNZKWE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I'll see where this goes, it would be nice to keep the fridge as stock as possible. I'll keep you guys updated.
Last edited by a moderator:
gauvinej
Active Member
Thats the thread I used to make mine a 2 tap last spring, but this fall i realized I could fit a pin lock converted to a ball lock on the hump of the back of mine (not an igloo). So 3 faucets became a requirement. Let me know how it works out for you I am looking at one of these igloos for a buddy of mine.
Dan2539
Well-Known Member
gauvinej said:
I was wondering how you handled placement of the elbow shanks in your tower so they wouldn't hit each other. Did you bend the shanks in order to have them cross past each other. The thread I consulted about another 2.5" draft tower mod didn't indicate if these was any modifications done to the shanks. I was almost considering using these if they were stainless steel : http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1758
gauvinej
Active Member
I used the original elbow shank and the part you are showing. I did bend the elbow shank because the link still got in the way.
How well does the Igloo cool? Does the tower get cold or did everyone have to install fans? I had a cheap kegerator before and had to install the fans for tower cooling.
How well does the Igloo cool? Does the tower get cold or did everyone have to install fans? I had a cheap kegerator before and had to install the fans for tower cooling.
Dan2539
Well-Known Member
It's not very cold up in the tower. I may be doing a fan mod to the tower at some point. Were those stainless steel shanks you bent? I imagine they are going to be very brittle and hard to bend. I did pick up an Oetiker clamper to cut down on the space used by clamps. That shank I posted in my last post does look tempting if its all SS.
So I have this. I have been trying to get a Yuengling keg to pour correctly....
I get foam out the wazu. I have taken apart the thermostat and turned the red screw about 4-6 revs (approx) to the right (clockwise) the best temp has got is 39F. I have a tower fan, and the tower has condensation, so I know it's chilling.
I get 80% foam with all PSI's between 5-14. If I use the lower PSI I get 30% foam but flatter beer.
I also have ice build up on inside coils, but don't know how to make this go away. I thought compressor ran excessively until I read this thread. The unit is 4-5" from wall, well ventalated.
Very frustrated.
I get foam out the wazu. I have taken apart the thermostat and turned the red screw about 4-6 revs (approx) to the right (clockwise) the best temp has got is 39F. I have a tower fan, and the tower has condensation, so I know it's chilling.
I get 80% foam with all PSI's between 5-14. If I use the lower PSI I get 30% foam but flatter beer.
I also have ice build up on inside coils, but don't know how to make this go away. I thought compressor ran excessively until I read this thread. The unit is 4-5" from wall, well ventalated.
Very frustrated.
