If I brew a batch of beer today, is it feasible to be drinkable by July 26th?

[cah]

I have an event coming up on July 26th that I would like to bring some homebrew to. I will be making an ipa, probably attempting a quick dry hop, and kegging this particular brew.

I know I am pushing my luck time wise, but I'm hoping that 1 week in the primary, 3 or 4 days of dry hopping, and a week to cold crash and carb it up should be doable.

That is less than 3 weeks away, and I don't want to serve undrinkable beer if I can help it. I will have a keg of beer that isn't rushed but would like to bring a second option.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Maybe a style of beer that would be faster or safer to drink while a bit green?

 

[BradleyBrew]

If you pitch enough yeast and control you temperatures then its very doable via kegging. I would do 10 days in the primary, rack to a keg (if its done and clear), dry hop for a few days in the keg, remove hops, cold crash and carbonate.

 

[cah]

I will be using a Conical fermenter with heating and cooling capabilities, in conjunction with a temperature controller, it will be my first time fermenting with this vessel but I expect it will do a good job compared to my bucket sitting on a heating pad.

I guess I have time to order one of those arborfab sleeves to dryhop with that go into a keg. There will be a lot of new experiences this time around. First time using my Conical, first time kegging, first time aerating with oxygen, and first time dry hopping.

Unfortunately I don't have my stir plate done yet, and I probably can't afford the time to build a proper starter, but I plan on just pitching 2 packets of yeast and hoping for the best. Generally I experience a strong and fast fermentation, hopefully with aeration this time it's even better.

 

[two_one_seven]

Doable but if anything goes awry then you or SOL....pardon the blue language. Brewpubs turn over batches in 10 to 14 days. Go for it but don't be too disappointed if you miss or it isn't quite the product you were expecting.

 

[cah]

Being a relative newbie at home brewing I never really know what to expect. However I am reconsidering the ipa strategy. I already have a pale ale that has been fermenting for 3 weeks, I will switch up my new brew to something smaller and hopefully faster than the 7% ipa I had planned and go for something like the centennial blonde at 4%.

 

[BradleyBrew]

Blonde Ale sounds like a better time line. I just use a 5 gallon paint strainer bag tied off with non flavored dental floss to dry hop in kegs. Good luck! Oh and if you are doing a 4% Blonde Ale I wouldnt worry about 2 packs of yeast unless they are close to expiring!

 

[adam01]

Hefeweizen is best fresh. But 2 weeks is a bit early. Enjoy the conical. With heat and cooling jacked, you shouldn't even have to move it once its full. I've got the plastic one
and only have to move it into the FC once full.

 

[linerndunch110]

Short answer , yes very doable.

But if you have a hiccup or any sort of delay then no.(slow ferntation)

Always ask if your guests would prefer micro brew or macro migraines from the unfermented sugars.

 

[Yooper]

I'm drinking an IPA right now. (literally, right now!).

I brewed it on 6/22/13. I've been drinking it a few days. Today, the beer is 16 days old. So yes, it's definitely doable!

A couple of keys- first, proper yeast pitching rate. You don't want to overpitch, but underpitching is a real problem for all beers but especially a fast turnaround beer. Use a yeast pitching calculator like yeastcalc.com or mrmalty.com and pitch the proper amount of yeast at the proper temperature, and ferment at the proper temperature.

Secondly, use a highly flocculant yeast strain. I wouldn't use S05 because it seems to take forever to flocc out. The beer I'm drinking right now used BRY-97, and while it's "ok", I prefer Wyeast 1335 at 64 degrees for American IPAs that are "clean" and super clear by day 10. It's an English strain, but it does not have that English fruitiness to it, and is quite clean. It drops like a rock, leaving a clean well attenuated beer, so it works great for IPAs.

Use whirlfloc in the kettle to avoid chill haze, and chill fast, to coagulate haze causing proteins.

I dryhopped this batch in the keg with a big mesh bag, so you don't need a dryhop gizmo (although I want one!).

My timeline for this beer was something like:
brew 6/22.
On 7/2, rack to keg with dryhops and add gas (room temperature 30 psi).
On 7/7, place in kegerator. (30 psi)
On 7/8, purge gas, and reset to 12 psi, pour off 3 ounces of sludge, Drink. It's still a bit young, but I'd serve this to anybody.

With a bit more time, it'll be really good. The key to doing this quickly is simply not creating off-flavors and problems in the first place, as well as the choice of ingredients.

 

[two_one_seven]

And end of conversation. Thanks yooper....you the woman.

 

[Yooper]

And end of conversation. Thanks yooper....you the woman.

Ha- that made me literally "LOL". Thanks!

I'm sort of the antithesis of an ultra long primary, so my advice is based on my own experiences. If the yeast is underpitched, and the temperature isn't controlled, then a longer time may be needed to fix any off-flavors. But if no off-flavors are created in the first place, it's pretty easy to make an IPA or APA that is drinkable by 3 weeks old in my opinon.

 

[BradleyBrew]

I'm drinking an IPA right now. (literally, right now!).

I brewed it on 6/22/13. I've been drinking it a few days. Today, the beer is 16 days old. So yes, it's definitely doable!

A couple of keys- first, proper yeast pitching rate. You don't want to overpitch, but underpitching is a real problem for all beers but especially a fast turnaround beer. Use a yeast pitching calculator like yeastcalc.com or mrmalty.com and pitch the proper amount of yeast at the proper temperature, and ferment at the proper temperature.

Secondly, use a highly flocculant yeast strain. I wouldn't use S05 because it seems to take forever to flocc out. The beer I'm drinking right now used BRY-97, and while it's "ok", I prefer Wyeast 1335 at 64 degrees for American IPAs that are "clean" and super clear by day 10. It's an English strain, but it does not have that English fruitiness to it, and is quite clean. It drops like a rock, leaving a clean well attenuated beer, so it works great for IPAs.

Use whirlfloc in the kettle to avoid chill haze, and chill fast, to coagulate haze causing proteins.

I dryhopped this batch in the keg with a big mesh bag, so you don't need a dryhop gizmo (although I want one!).

My timeline for this beer was something like:
brew 6/22.
On 7/2, rack to keg with dryhops and add gas (room temperature 30 psi).
On 7/7, place in kegerator. (30 psi)
On 7/8, purge gas, and reset to 12 psi, pour off 3 ounces of sludge, Drink. It's still a bit young, but I'd serve this to anybody.

With a bit more time, it'll be really good. The key to doing this quickly is simply not creating off-flavors and problems in the first place, as well as the choice of ingredients.

Hey I had the same answer but just shortened down a bit lol

 

[IL1kebeer]

7 day grain to glass wheat beer is doable if you keg and fast carb it

 

[cah]

Awesome, thank you all for your input on this. Looks like I should be able to pull it off after all.