Ideal Keg PSI for Pressurized Transfer after Spunding

[Smudgey]

It works for me. I use a liquid line thats short as practicable and low flow-resistance ~8mm internal but I don't know how much difference the line makes, the flows restricted most by the liquid post. Sometimes I finish off under pressure from my regulator if it gets too slow (thick stout and very little left in the fermenter) and just bleed by depressing the poppet in the gas line's connect, but usually it over-fills on its own and without a steep keg angle. I have normal gas dip-tubes and find a cradle of 2 Steelcap boots facing off does the trick. The lid is sealed well already as its all still at splunding pressure ~12psi etc. If you use a floating dip in your FV and need a siphon like with a fermntasaurus etc., disconnecting the gas return from the FV and bleeding the connect or prv would probably do, or connect your reg and 'up' the pressure in the FV a little.

 

[jbschuyler]

To close the loop on my original question, I wanted to share the details of my pressurized transfer, which I did last night.

The Flex+ FV, after cooling down to about 35 degrees, had a gauge pressure of about 10.5psi. I then charged up the purged keg, which was also chilling in the fridge to 8psi. After connecting the CO2 line to the gas manifold on the FV, I opened the butterfly valve on the racking arm and the beer flowed nicely. I also had a pressure gauge attached to the tap on the keg, which I continuously monitored. I also kept using the PRV to vent the keg and keep it as close to 8psi as I could. This process overall was fairly successful, although I did have a bit of beer leaking from one of the connections on the tap, which I will isolate and fix prior to next time.

 

[NewJersey]

This thread got pretty intense!
Anyways, thanks for all the info.
I've performed many closed transfers now, but was wondering what differential was best. Mine have been around 3 so far, but next kegging I'm gonna shoot for 1.
Thanks, you maniacs!