Idea, has anyone here done this

[ShineOn]

Ok....I know I can't be the 1st to have this idea

I have an old banquet coffee maker ( the big a$$ perk one)

What's stopping me from cleaning the living crap out of it, hooking up a SCT100, setting my temp waking up to my strike water being ready to fly?

Seems like way to simple of an idea to be original

 

[fixitoscar]

seems like it would work, but how many amps does that thing draw? The stc is only good for up to 10 amps. more than that and you start to burn the contacts. Having strike water ready to go would be pretty cool.

 

[peterj]

Yeah, I've heard of people who do electric brewing having setups that allow them to do this. I don't know much about it myself, but you might find people in the Electric Brewing forum who do.

 

[danath34]

Can this thing hold enough water? As long as it's real clean, I see no problem.

As far as the STC, if the coffee maker can be plugged into a wall outlet, you should be good

 

[rekoob]

Sounds like it would work. You know the comments comming so...

Give it a try and let us know.

 

[Howhownow]

Great idea. I swear I read a post on something extremely similar, with build notes. Cannot find it at the moment, though.

 

[Staestc]

Some times freezers and refrigerators pull too much current on start up and it exceeds the capacity of the STC-1000 relays, but it's simple to wire a higher current relay to the STC-1000's output and then run the current for the coffee pot through that. Figure out the maximum current the coffee pot will draw before you use the STC with it directly.

 

[NoH20]

Pretty sure there's more than 1 "build" thread on here using those.

Todd

 

[ShineOn]

Guess I need to order up another SCT and git to wiring
Like said earlier it can't pull more than 10 amps as it just plugs into the wall, and also as said a kicker relay would be no trouble either.

The one I have out in the storage unit is a 100 cup one (so close to 6 gals) and I only brew in 3.5 gal batches

 

[wolfej50]

If you're talking about an old style percolator, then I'm not sure. The way water gets forced up through the central pipe to the grounds is by the bubbling action of boiling water. If you don't bring the water up to boiling temperature, then no percolation.

 

[GilSwillBasementBrews]

If you're talking about an old style percolator, then I'm not sure. The way water gets forced up through the central pipe to the grounds is by the bubbling action of boiling water. If you don't bring the water up to boiling temperature, then no percolation.

I believe the OP just intends to use it as a HLT so no need for percolation. And On that note I see no reason why it wouldn't work.


Sent from somewhere to someone

 

[raysmithtx]

I use a bucket heater and a Heavy duty timer. Works great. Search for the "I love waking up to hot strike water thread". I'm on my ipad and it's a pain to find and post the link. It's cheap and effective.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

 

[ShineOn]

That's to make coffee.....the heating element will still heat the water if the pipe and basket aren't installed

 

[danath34]

Some times freezers and refrigerators pull too much current on start up and it exceeds the capacity of the STC-1000 relays, but it's simple to wire a higher current relay to the STC-1000's output and then run the current for the coffee pot through that. Figure out the maximum current the coffee pot will draw before you use the STC with it directly.

Just out of curiousity, have you seen any threads (here or elsewhere) about this happening? I too, have seen lots of discussion about this very same thing, but have never actually heard of it happening. I was debating wiring a secondary relay for my STC build running a fridge, out of this worry, but with a bit of logic, did away with it and havent looked back. The STC is rated for 10A, and most wall outlets are only 10A as well. Some are 15A, but the relays inside the STC are actually rated for 15A. So pretty much anything that you would plug into a standard 120V wall outlet would work on the STC (as long as you aren't trying to run multiple things, then you're gonna have to add up the max possible current).

 

[Staestc]

All I have seen is warnings from other people about the possibility, primarily with older large freezers. And I did not know the relays were rated at 15 amps. That's good to know!
Travis

 

[day_trippr]

Component ratings /= Unit Ratings.

eg: if the controller manufacturer didn't lay down heavy enough copper to handle 15 amps you'd be risking a fire...

Cheers!

 

[Staestc]

That is certainly a more than valid point!

What I don't know is that if you read the plate on your freezer and it says X amps, is that the maximum current it will draw or will it exceed that for very brief periods such as compressor start up? I would assume it would have to be max, in order to size circuits safely.
Travis

 

[Paps]

I use a bucket heater and a Heavy duty timer. Works great. Search for the "I love waking up to hot strike water thread". I'm on my ipad and it's a pain to find and post the link. It's cheap and effective.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/i-love-waking-up-hot-strike-water-easy-1-2-3-a-381737/

I just so happened to have that one bookmarked.

I've seen an in bucket heater for use during winter of roofing tar for a roof with no electricity available on the jobsite. Freeking wonderfull idea.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

100 cup percolator.........That's awesome!......

 

[danath34]

That is certainly a more than valid point!

What I don't know is that if you read the plate on your freezer and it says X amps, is that the maximum current it will draw or will it exceed that for very brief periods such as compressor start up? I would assume it would have to be max, in order to size circuits safely.
Travis

At the risk of getting further off topic:

the amps listed on the plate is the running amps. They don't list the starting amps, because unless you're dealing with bigger electric motors, it isn't as much of a big deal. Yes, the current will be higher during the first second or two of it running. How much depends on the specific fridge, but I think its usually a matter of a couple or few amps usually, but I'm just relying on memory of something I read and never actually tested myself, so I may be wrong. You can test it with an ammeter if you have one. You can observe it (but not measure it) by turning on the fridge and watching for your lights in the room to flicker as it kicks on. That'll tell you how long the startup surge is. If its longer than a couple seconds, I've been told the compressor is worn.

Anyway, from my conversation with an electrician (his word to me, regurgitated back here, no actual proof) time is also a factor. If you DO get a huge surge of current on startup that takes you past the 10A rating, it isn't like its going to instantly burst into flames. It takes time to heat up, and that 1-2 second pulse isn't going to affect it. That is why, I assume, they only list the running amps on appliances.