ICEMASTER MAX 2

[TLaffey]

I was thinking of lowering the reservoir temp but BrewBuilt suggests not to go below -2C. I do have a neoprene jacket around the fermenter and towels on top. So, the 3:1 glycol solution won’t freeze at -5C? It’s a 25% glycol solution. I reached out to MoreBeer, they suggest that I go with a 40% glycol solution

There are tables online for freezing temperature vs glycol concentration. Here's one: Glycol-Freeze-Point. From that, it looks like your 30% solution is good to about -13*C (8*F).

AFAIK, there is are a couple of tradeoffs to glycol ratio: 1) glycol is more viscous than water, so makes the pumps work harder, and 2) water holds more heat (or cold if you prefer) than does pure glycol. Both lead to wanting to use the minimum ratio that gets to your required temperature.

The Icemaster has a little window under the cover where you can shine a flashlight and see if you have accumulated any ice on the evaporator coils. So long as you have no ice, you're good to go. (That's been my practice anyway.)

The coolstix might work with cold enough glycol and enough insulation around the fermenter. -2C seems arbitrary (unless there's a pump limitation?), so with 30% glycol I'd go colder (any maybe double up on a blanket) before doing anything else.

 

[Darth_Duane]

I got my new Icemaster Max 2 last week and I am pleased to say they seemed to have revised the newer front temp controllers to display Fahrenheit. The STC1000 on the back still seems to only display in Celsius but since that one rarely if ever gets adjusted that's not a big deal.

I also followed this video to wire mine for heat and I am very pleased with the result.

 

[bionicbelly]

I got my new Icemaster Max 2 last week and I am pleased to say they seemed to have revised the newer front temp controllers to display Fahrenheit. The STC1000 on the back still seems to only display in Celsius but since that one rarely if ever gets adjusted that's not a big deal.

View attachment 807189

I also followed this video to wire mine for heat and I am very pleased with the result.

You don't need those loops that go from inlet to outlet when you are not using one of the sides. Just hold the down arrow till the controller turns off.

 

[Darth_Duane]

You don't need those loops that go from inlet to outlet when you are not using one of the sides. Just hold the down arrow till the controller turns off.

Yeah this picture was taken when i was still testing the pumps and leak testing the system.

 

[hockeylove]

I got my new Icemaster Max 2 last week and I am pleased to say they seemed to have revised the newer front temp controllers to display Fahrenheit. The STC1000 on the back still seems to only display in Celsius but since that one rarely if ever gets adjusted that's not a big deal.

View attachment 807189

I also followed this video to wire mine for heat and I am very pleased with the result.

Where did you purchase your Chiller? Was it Morebeer?

 

[Darth_Duane]

Where did you purchase your Chiller? Was it Morebeer?

Yes I bought it from Morebeer on Black Friday.

 

[Chorgey]

I'm trying to figure out how to setup the Icemaster Max 2 with an Inkbird ITC-308. Each of these have a temperature probe.
I also have a separate Uni Conical Heater as well.

Any suggestions?

Cheers!

 

[Darth_Duane]

I'm trying to figure out how to setup the Icemaster Max 2 with an Inkbird ITC-308. Each of these have a temperature probe.
I also have a separate Uni Conical Heater as well.

Any suggestions?

Cheers!

I would not put two different controllers/probes connected to the same vessel. If they are not calibrated the same they could end up fighting each other and running at the same time etc. What I did for this was wire my Icemaster max 2 to be able to control heat. I followed this guide, but you could definitely go less fancy and just run some wires through the lid.

 

[Bobby_M]

I would not put two different controllers/probes connected to the same vessel. If they are not calibrated the same they could end up fighting each other and running at the same time etc. What I did for this was wire my Icemaster max 2 to be able to control heat. I followed this guide, but you could definitely go less fancy and just run some wires through the lid.

The only problem is if you had the set points too close together. Setting the cooling to 68 and the heating to 66, that could work fine because it's the same as a single controller with a 2 degree hysteresis. You can verify that the calibration is close enough by just reading the two displays.

 

[Chorgey]

The only problem is if you had the set points too close together. Setting the cooling to 68 and the heating to 66, that could work fine because it's the same as a single controller with a 2 degree hysteresis. You can verify that the calibration is close enough by just reading the two displays

Bobby, are you recommending to use two probes at the same time?

 

[Bobby_M]

Bobby, are you recommending to use two probes at the same time?

Only if you're unwilling or unable to modify the unit to switch the heat. Without that mod, you would have to double stack probes in your thermowells.

 

[jnecessary]

Has anyone thought about replacing the cooling fan? As others have noted, the cooling fan is a bit noisy and it doesn't seem to move a lot of air. I'm facing summer heat here in the Sacramento area (forecast for Thursday is 113*F) so I'm expecting that keeping 2 fermenters cold might take a bit more efficiency in the chiller. The next few days will tell, though. For now, I have a nice insulation blanket over the fermenters.

View attachment 732529

Did you ever try replacing the fan? Fortunately/Unfortunately, my brewery is also my home office. Was curious if you had any success and recommend a certain model.

 

[mggray87]

My new max 2 is on today. It's reading -0.3* Celsius but when I check the glycol solution with my nice instant read. It says 36-37?? My glycol tank won't even get to 28 or even 32. Lol. Brand new

 

[TLaffey]

Did you ever try replacing the fan? Fortunately/Unfortunately, my brewery is also my home office. Was curious if you had any success and recommend a certain model.

Yes, I did replace the fan but I also had to replace the internal 12V power supply to power it. The OEM fan is a 120V fan and, surprisingly, the fans I could find that moved more air are 12V fans. I was after max air flow, so of course the fan is not quiet (though maybe slightly quieter than before). The fan I am currently using is this one. The 12V supply I used is this one. Since the supply is on all the time and you want the fan on only when the compressor is running, I also added a relay, this one. All in all, I'm not sure this was worthwhile.

 

[mggray87]

After running my test all day today from 2pm when I powered it. Set the IM2 to -2*C. At 11:30pm. It read -1.0*C to 1.4*C but when I tested the glycol solution it was only 32*f at best. But i had one unitank 2.0 set to 72*f to test heating pad. And one set to 35*f. The lowest my unitank got was 39*F. When I tested the actual water inside the unitank it was *40. So in all, it's accurate reading. But I can't get one below 40* so the idea of cold crashing is I guess out. Lol. Let alone both I can get both to probably 45-47 if had them both trying to drop...

But the idea was to be able to cold crash and carbonate in the unitank. Not sure if my equipment is gonna be a success in that aspect...

 

[jnecessary]

Yes, I did replace the fan but I also had to replace the internal 12V power supply to power it. The OEM fan is a 120V fan and, surprisingly, the fans I could find that moved more air are 12V fans. I was after max air flow, so of course the fan is not quiet (though maybe slightly quieter than before). The fan I am currently using is this one. The 12V supply I used is this one. Since the supply is on all the time and you want the fan on only when the compressor is running, I also added a relay, this one. All in all, I'm not sure this was worthwhile.

Yeah, that does not seem worth it for me. I have a properly sized 120v fan but it only moves 62CFM, very quiet though! Any chance you saw the specs on the stock one in the chiller. I'd rather not sacrifice the machine's longevity for comfort, but if similar spec, I would make the change. I appreciate your help, keeps me from having to tinker around with a full chiller that is currently working on two ferments.

 

[Bobby_M]

After running my test all day today from 2pm when I powered it. Set the IM2 to -2*C. At 11:30pm. It read -1.0*C to 1.4*C but when I tested the glycol solution it was only 32*f at best. But i had one unitank 2.0 set to 72*f to test heating pad. And one set to 35*f. The lowest my unitank got was 39*F. When I tested the actual water inside the unitank it was *40. So in all, it's accurate reading. But I can't get one below 40* so the idea of cold crashing is I guess out. Lol. Let alone both I can get both to probably 45-47 if had them both trying to drop...

But the idea was to be able to cold crash and carbonate in the unitank. Not sure if my equipment is gonna be a success in that aspect...

First calibrate the glycol bath probe as it seems to be a off by at least 1C but make sure you stir it really well to avoid testing a hot spot with your instant read. After that, try running the glycol tank at -3C for a while. Most find that the best cold crash they can get is done with 26F glycol. It's right on the edge of freezing the beer at the coil surface.

 

[mggray87]

First calibrate the glycol bath probe as it seems to be a off by at least 1C but make sure you stir it really well to avoid testing a hot spot with your instant read. After that, try running the glycol tank at -3C for a while. Most find that the best cold crash they can get is done with 26F glycol. It's right on the edge of freezing the beer at the coil surface.

I had it set for -2*c but it never even got to that just kept running. Around -1.4 to -1. But when I tested the glycol it was 31-32. Wouldn't even get that low haha I figured the pump pumping my glycol would be stirring it

calibrated settings F4. going to try again.

 

[mggray87]

Where is the temp prob the icemaster 2 for the glycol solution. When the pumps are running the temp is accurate after my calibration. But when fermenters gets to my set temp say 48f. The glycol compressor shuts off. The back reads -1.9. But when I test the liquid in there it's 36. So it's way off unless the pumpa are pumping to the unitanks. Nso I guess I can drop it to -3. But if I calibrate it while pumps are off then the temp will be way off if I check the temp when the glycol is actually pumping. Thinking the prob is probably touching the coil

cant return it now after doing the heat mod and drilling a hole LOL.. i own it now!

 

[mggray87]

edit

 

[mggray87]

First calibrate the glycol bath probe as it seems to be a off by at least 1C but make sure you stir it really well to avoid testing a hot spot with your instant read. After that, try running the glycol tank at -3C for a while. Most find that the best cold crash they can get is done with 26F glycol. It's right on the edge of freezing the beer at the coil surface.

Ok so still tackling it. I have both of my 7g unitank 2.0s at 40f this morning. Which I had it set. Now slowly dropping it to 38 see if they both go. I had to do this slowly. Started at 50 then 45. Then 40 so it has a chance to get to temp and the glycol to get to a really cold temp. Otherwise it just runs runs. Also I calibrated the glycol temp when it was at say 4*c. It's accurate. But when I have it set to -2.0c it only got to 36. And compressor was off. So I assume the probe in there somewhere is on a coil or close to it. I'm testing in the center of the glycol. Last night I dropped the controller to -3c as mentioned. This morning the compressor was off but the glycol solution was 29*f. I just dropped it to -3.5*c and I'm I'm waiting for it to drop unitanks to 38* and then test the glycol temp to see where that puts the temp inside there.

What cold crash temp should I aim for? 38*? Low enough or should I try to see if it can reach 36?

I'm guessing peak summer this will be impossible but if it does both at once. It should do one batch.. I'd think

 

[jnecessary]

Ok so still tackling it. I have both of my 7g unitank 2.0s at 40f this morning. Which I had it set. Now slowly dropping it to 38 see if they both go. I had to do this slowly. Started at 50 then 45. Then 40 so it has a chance to get to temp and the glycol to get to a really cold temp. Otherwise it just runs runs. Also I calibrated the glycol temp when it was at say 4*c. It's accurate. But when I have it set to -2.0c it only got to 36. And compressor was off. So I assume the probe in there somewhere is on a coil or close to it. I'm testing in the center of the glycol. Last night I dropped the controller to -3c as mentioned. This morning the compressor was off but the glycol solution was 29*f. I just dropped it to -3.5*c and I'm I'm waiting for it to drop unitanks to 38* and then test the glycol temp to see where that puts the temp inside there.

What cold crash temp should I aim for? 38*? Low enough or should I try to see if it can reach 36?

I'm guessing peak summer this will be impossible but if it does both at once. It should do one batch.. I'd think

I go as low as my fermenters can go without the glycol machine running constantly. For me, that's 35 in one tank and 37-38 in another (it has a much less efficient cooling coil design). With good coils or a jacket I think 35 in two 10-15 gallon fermenters would be achievable without nonstop running. With some reflectix insulation around my fermenters as well.

 

[WesBrew]

Revisiting the idea of changing the fittings on the machine to stainless quick disconnect. the four fittings are 1/4 npt i think. bulkhead with nut on the back side, 3/8 barbs on both ends.
Was thinking of using a 1/4 npt nipple but not sure if they have QD that will fit that thread.

 

[Deadalus]

Revisiting the idea of changing the fittings on the machine to stainless quick disconnect. the four fittings are 1/4 npt i think. bulkhead with nut on the back side, 3/8 barbs on both ends.
Was thinking of using a 1/4 npt nipple but not sure if they have QD that will fit that thread.

They are probably just pass through barbed bulkheads, a barbed coupling with threads for the nut. That's what are on my Icemaster 100. You could just enlarge the hole for another size NPT. I have use a few different types of 3/8" SS barbed fittings, one of them is a 3/8" barbed QD on my sparge arm. I also have a SS 1/2" NPT x 3/8" barb on my glycol pumps. Personally, I went with valved acetal QDs at the coils. You can disconnect and they won't leak.

 

[WesBrew]

yes, i prob didn't describe it that well but ….this

 

[Deadalus]

yes, i prob didn't describe it that well but ….thisView attachment 844865

I didn't know what they were called either until I started looking for them. I ended up putting additional ones on the inside cover of mine to get the tubing to the tank. I recommend something valved though as the valves close the line when you disconnect and it avoid spills. These insulated lines sold by Brewbuilt have if not the same one I linked a very similar one. They are barbed though. I didn't look for anything like them in SS and/or NPT. The insulation, lines, valved QDs, and internal pass through bulkheads were already extra money so I stuck with the barbs. Also because 3/8' doesn't have as many options at home brew stores, mostly 1/2", and the coils are 3/8" usually.

 

[WesBrew]

super day. Went to screw in the pump control panel and button this up. The little screw made an incredible one hop into the tub. Had to unscrew the cover, then all four hoses, then all four bulkheads, then bend the tabs to get cover off….
I found a worm drive clsmp i dropped in there two years ago. Rusted, so i cleaned out the tub.

 

[WesBrew]

Heres the inside if snyone is curious….

 

[Whisky River]

Not trying to be rude and I appreciate you sharing your pictures, but is that level of gunk and sludge normal for this type of glycol chiller?

 

[WesBrew]

Not trying to be rude and I appreciate you sharing your pictures, but is that level of gunk and sludge normal for this type of glycol chiller?

A metal band clamp had fallen in there some time ago and rusted. I think that is where the murky water is coming from. The blue/green on the hoses? I don't know if its normal or not.