• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

I want a conical fermenter, but boil in garage and ferment in basement. Any suggesti

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I was just starting to look at indoor combustion brewing. Granted there are some specific issues that need to be addressed, but I don't see them as insurmountable.

What am I missing?

Criteria:
Natural Gas conversion kit. No LP, no tanks. No way.
Hard pipe the gas, with appliance shut off valve.
Floor space with a minimum of 30" clear in all directions to all surfaces.
Provide a UL 2 hour rated wall around the room. (2 layers of type x 5/8 drywall each side)
Provide a UL 2 hr ceiling. (Not sure offhand but roughly 3 layers of type x)
Metal hood over convection area.
CO detector & smoke detector - hardwired and battery backup.
Exhaust fan capable of burner BTU / 100 = CFM. Figure a Blichman Top Tier rated at 60,000 BTU with nat gas kit. So that's 600 CFM x 10% factor of safety = 660 CFM exhaust required. That's like two air changes a min for a 10'x12' brew room. Grainger has one that's roughly 800CFM @ 0 head for $180.00
Supply air - probably supply a little less to get negative pressure in brew room. SWMBO doesn't like hops like I do...

Other than drywalling the ceiling which I HATE... this doesn't look too bad / expensive. What am I missing that pushes indoor people to electric?
 
Is there any posible way you move your fermentation to the garage? Such as building some sort of insulated box for the conical?
 
If I wanted to be really gangster about it... I'd run hard piping down to the basement, attach a CFC or plate chiller, and go from hot in the garage to pitchable in the basement. It'd be fairly quick to clean since you could do both the chiller and piping at the same time.
 
bovineblitz said:
If I wanted to be really gangster about it... I'd run hard piping down to the basement, attach a CFC or plate chiller, and go from hot in the garage to pitchable in the basement. It'd be fairly quick to clean since you could do both the chiller and piping at the same time.

Oh, great. Now I have another ridiculous DIY project that is so impractical and bada$$ that I have to do it. There goes a peaceful weekend with SWMBO....

"All your home brew are belong to us!"
 
just install one of those handicap chair lifts on the stairs and strap your kettle in the chair....your not getting any younger
 
I was just starting to look at indoor combustion brewing. Granted there are some specific issues that need to be addressed, but I don't see them as insurmountable.

What am I missing?

Criteria:
Natural Gas conversion kit. No LP, no tanks. No way.
Hard pipe the gas, with appliance shut off valve.
Floor space with a minimum of 30" clear in all directions to all surfaces.
Provide a UL 2 hour rated wall around the room. (2 layers of type x 5/8 drywall each side)
Provide a UL 2 hr ceiling. (Not sure offhand but roughly 3 layers of type x)
Metal hood over convection area.
CO detector & smoke detector - hardwired and battery backup.
Exhaust fan capable of burner BTU / 100 = CFM. Figure a Blichman Top Tier rated at 60,000 BTU with nat gas kit. So that's 600 CFM x 10% factor of safety = 660 CFM exhaust required. That's like two air changes a min for a 10'x12' brew room. Grainger has one that's roughly 800CFM @ 0 head for $180.00
Supply air - probably supply a little less to get negative pressure in brew room. SWMBO doesn't like hops like I do...

Other than drywalling the ceiling which I HATE... this doesn't look too bad / expensive. What am I missing that pushes indoor people to electric?

A little excessive but safe I suppose. The great thing about home brewing is you can make it complex as you what it to be the only limiting factor is your budget.:mug:

My buddy and I have brewed in the garage and the basement.

My buddy's brewery is in his basement. He made a painted plywood hood with a strong exhaust fan. I am not sure about the CFM but the piping is 6" and takes care of the steam and carbon monoxide. I know the hood is wood and is "unsafe" but, there are no open flames near it. If the flames got out of control we have a fire extinguisher near by. The propane tank has a shut off valve on it and so far we have never had a problem. We have looked into doing natural gas but the burners are expensive and some burners require a high pressure supply. This is not normal in residential gas lines would have to get the gas company to change the house regulator, This is also expensive. For added safety we also used a carbon monoxide detector, a cheep one you can pick up at a home improvement store that plugs into an electrical outlet.

I have also brewed in the garage many times. My method of getting 10-12 gals downstairs was in two fermenting plastic buckets, one on each side to balance the weight. I admit it is heavy and the stairs are not fun with an extra 100lbs, and I am only getting older.
 
Back
Top