I think my beers are oxyidized

[doug293cz]

That did not apply to me in this case. No doubt I started with a light colored beer that ended up being noticeably darker with different flavors. I think this is because of the cold crashing. I will do the same batch with no cold crashing and see what happens. For dry hopping, I will not take the buckets lid off. I will just pull the airlock out and pour the hops through the whole.

How long did you cold crash? It's true that cold crashing will suck O2 into the fermenter headspace, and the longer the cold crash time before packaging, the more O2 (and potential for oxidation) the beer will pick up. If you cold crash without CO2 back pressure, you should keep your cold crash time to the absolute minimum.

Brew on

 

[urg8rb8]

How long did you cold crash? It's true that cold crashing will suck O2 into the fermenter headspace, and the longer the cold crash time before packaging, the more O2 (and potential for oxidation) the beer will pick up. If you cold crash without CO2 back pressure, you should keep your cold crash time to the absolute minimum.

Brew on

Cold crashed for a few days. I will no longer cold crash because having clear beer isn't my number one priority. Not worth the risk of having this happen again.

 

[rhys333]

I get clear beers without cold crashing. 7 -10 days in the fridge and they're usually crystal clear.

 

[urg8rb8]

I get clear beers without cold crashing. 7 -10 days in the fridge and they're usually crystal clear.

That's what I used to do and that is what I will continue to do. No more cold crashing.

 

[rhys333]

That's what I used to do and that is what I will continue to do. No more cold crashing.

Simple is often best hey? I find even the low floc strains drop clear given 7-10 days in the fridge. I did a kolsch recently with the powdery WY 2565 and that sucker looks filtered! A good hot break, kettle fining and cold break does wonders.

 

[ballandkeg]

If you are using an auto siphon to transfer or bottle, look for oxygenation there first. A leak at the o ring is a very efficient way to aerate your beer. You can check it by siphoning water into a clear glass vessel. Submerge the siphon outlet. If you see bubbles you are drawing air from somewhere.

 

[urg8rb8]

If you are using an auto siphon to transfer or bottle, look for oxygenation there first. A leak at the o ring is a very efficient way to aerate your beer. You can check it by siphoning water into a clear glass vessel. Submerge the siphon outlet. If you see bubbles you are drawing air from somewhere.

Thanks for the suggestion. Can you explain in more detail what you mean?

 

[ballandkeg]

Sure. If you Google " auto siphon leaks " you will see lots of posts about this. It tends to draw air in around the seals on the piston. You can confirm if yours is leaking by siphoning water into a clear container with the hose submerged in the tank you are siphoning into. You will see lots of bubbles if it is sucking air in at the piston seal. If it is leaking you will oxygenate your beer while transferring to your bottling bucket and into your bottles.

 

[urg8rb8]

Sure. If you Google " auto siphon leaks " you will see lots of posts about this. It tends to draw air in around the seals on the piston. You can confirm if yours is leaking by siphoning water into a clear container with the hose submerged in the tank you are siphoning into. You will see lots of bubbles if it is sucking air in at the piston seal. If it is leaking you will oxygenate your beer while transferring to your bottling bucket and into your bottles.

I get it. Thanks for the explanation! I'll give it a test.