I need help finding parts

[deadboy]

I'm looking for 2 things. The main one is a quick disconnect for my (eventual)HERMS system. Seems like these days all you can find anywhere is the Shark Bite style of quick CONNECT. I need something that will preferably shut of the flow when I disconnect it, like the kind you'd find on an air compressor or inline water filter for an ice maker or whatever.

Second thing is food/beverage quality high temp hose for the hot wort. Unless/untill I go fully automated there will be some hose switching and as such I'll need flexible lines that can stand up to boiling temps.

Thanks in advance.

 

[texasbrewer73]

I typically use a valve in conjunction with QDs. I haven't seen one that seals the connection when you disconnect, but not sure I wouldn't want to see the price either. For the hose, silicone is the way to go.

 

[fpweeks]

silicon is the way to go for hoses....high temp, food grade, and they resist kinks

im not sure if they make a QD with a check valve....i only know of three kinds.....

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/beer-brewing-equipment/pumps-and-plumbing

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=51_54

i have the cam locks...they work fine, but are a little cumbersome....but are the cheapest!

 

[Homercidal]

I'd go with silcone hoses and valves on the fittings with Quick Connects. I bought Camlocks.

The valves will stop the flow. There should be very little leakage with them.

 

[deadboy]

For the hoses that's good to know. All I can find at the local big box stores that can handle the temps is water heater hose which I'm questionable as to the food grade of.

Those polysulfone QD connectors are what I'm looking for, kind of. Ideally I'd like the checked side (female) to have the threads so I could connect it to my valves and so forth...

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

You will need a food grade silicone lubricant to maintain the seals on poly disconnects. Also, keep them away from heat. Been there, done that...

 

[deadboy]

Cheeze and crackers. For a 3 tank system and the cost of all that I may as well just copper it all up. It'd be less expensive. Well, thanks for the heads up.

 

[carlisle_bob]

Hi

Soldered copper is always going to be the low cost option. Having a fully rigid setup can be problematic.

Bob

 

[jcaudill]

Colder fittings are available at usplastics.com in much more of a variety than you'll find at the major home brew websites. You'll probably find what you need there - HFC35 series. I'll tell you two things:

1) Yes they do make versions with shutoffs

BUT

2) The version with shutoff reduces flow.

I use Colder fittings exclusively - and I do not use the versions with shutoffs. Mine are the non-valved version and I've drilled away the cross support for better flow. If you're smart - you don't really need the valved versions. Use science and mechanical devices to your advantage and when all else fails - use brewer's gloves. It's much cheaper.

Everybody instantly gravitates to silicone hose - and I have no idea why. Tygon Tygoprene is cheaper and has better kink resistance than silicone. It's FDA approved. Check out emurdock.com for it.

I would not use it on the vacuum side though - you should be using reinforced tubing only on the vacuum side. And use the highest ID you can achieve - I use 5/8" for everything.

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

Brewers Gloves: a glass of cold beer to wrap your burnt fingers around.

 

[carlisle_bob]

Colder fittings are available at usplastics.com in much more of a variety than you'll find at the major home brew websites. You'll probably find what you need there - HFC35 series. I'll tell you two things:

1) Yes they do make versions with shutoffs

BUT

2) The version with shutoff reduces flow.

I use Colder fittings exclusively - and I do not use the versions with shutoffs. Mine are the non-valved version and I've drilled away the cross support for better flow. If you're smart - you don't really need the valved versions. Use science and mechanical devices to your advantage and when all else fails - use brewer's gloves. It's much cheaper.

Everybody instantly gravitates to silicone hose - and I have no idea why. Tygon Tygoprene is cheaper and has better kink resistance than silicone. It's FDA approved. Check out emurdock.com for it.

I would not use it on the vacuum side though - you should be using reinforced tubing only on the vacuum side. And use the highest ID you can achieve - I use 5/8" for everything.

Hi

The combination of pump outlet pressure running into a closed valve and boiling wort is one thing that makes silicone attractive.

Bob

 

[jcaudill]

Sure - but what I'm saying is Tygoprene does the same thing. I think there's a bit of blinder's when it comes to tubing because Silicone is what you find everywhere. There are alternatives.

 

[deadboy]

In the stream of me needing help, I'm hooking up a GFCI breaker for my HERMS and need to know if it's an issue that the neutral and ground lines in my main box are all connected to the same bar. Will this prevent/impede the proper function of the GFCI? Should I rewire the whole thing?

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

Main box: do you mean the main power to your house? The main breaker box? or? If the box is one of the previous listed, how old is the box/house?
Ground and Neutral are separated now.

 

[deadboy]

Yeah, the main breaker box where power comes into the house. I was doing a little work in there a couple weeks ago, cleaning and labeling, and saw that it was installed back when phone numbers were like KL5-5555 with letters at the begining of the prefix to denote what neighborhood you were in. So I'd say mid 50s?

There are theoretically 2 bars in there but the wires go to both and as I recall they are actually connected somehow.