I know this is a n00b question but just give it a look...

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pjewell

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So I have a Mr. Beer kit I got for Xmas. I started the process on the 27th and its the 31st with not much signs of heavy yeast activity. The mixture cloudy and the temps are steady from 69-70F. Not much foam is sitting on the top. Some bubbles with the areas of a dime or quarter. I read from a lot of this website that there should be SOMETHING going on. Sediment is on the bottom with some slime(?) sitting on the upper sides.


I know this is very nooby for me to ask, but is this normal? I am prepare for it the fermentation to go well pass the 14th day mark. Thats no problem. I just want to know if my baby is alright... ;)


EDIT: I had a typo on this post! The temps do not go to 79F !!! Typed a 9 instead of a 0. I changed the 9 to a 0 above.
 
have you read this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/mr-beer-read-all-about-ask-questions-46360/? it may have some useful info regarding this system. never used one myself, but i suspect after ~4 days there is activity in there, and you might not recognize the signs of fermentation. but the information you provided is lacking to make any further diagnosis. you will need to share how the wort (unyeasted beer) was treated and how and what kind of yeast was put in.

another site http://www.howtobrew.com/intro.html in addition to these forums will have most information to give you an understanding of making beer. in the future, i suspect if the hobby gets ahold of you as well, you will want to switch to a more conventional method of fermentation.
 
have you read this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/mr-beer-read-all-about-ask-questions-46360/? it may have some useful info regarding this system. never used one myself, but i suspect after ~4 days there is activity in there, and you might not recognize the signs of fermentation. but the information you provided is lacking to make any further diagnosis. you will need to share how the wort (unyeasted beer) was treated and how and what kind of yeast was put in.

another site http://www.howtobrew.com/intro.html in addition to these forums will have most information to give you an understanding of making beer. in the future, i suspect if the hobby gets ahold of you as well, you will want to switch to a more conventional method of fermentation.

yeah i agree with what your saying. i did read. but from the likes of what some people are saying is that there should be something by now. or atleast more than what is going on. i guess i will read some more.
 
Be sure to pop by and say "hi" to the friendly folk over at Mr. Beer Fans too. I wrote their FAQ many moons ago - you may find it a helpful addition to the kit instructions.
 
If temps hit 79F, chances are your (primary) fermentation is long done. That crud you see around the fermenter is the leftover from the krausen (foam). You should still leave it for a week or so in the fermenter to condition (even after the bulk of fermentation has happened, the beer is still green as hell). 79F might give you some off flavors, though. I didn't even know temperature was important when I did my Mr. Beer batch, and let it ferment at 85F or so. Never saw the krausen rise - pitched yeast, went to sleep, went to work, and when I got home it was already done. Tasted like solvent, though.
 
Be sure to pop by and say "hi" to the friendly folk over at Mr. Beer Fans too. I wrote their FAQ many moons ago - you may find it a helpful addition to the kit instructions.

I might just go pop in there. I see that Mr. Beer has a forum, but I think it is better to have some different perspectives. Especially those who dont use a pre-maid HME.

If temps hit 79F, chances are your (primary) fermentation is long done. That crud you see around the fermenter is the leftover from the krausen (foam). You should still leave it for a week or so in the fermenter to condition (even after the bulk of fermentation has happened, the beer is still green as hell). 79F might give you some off flavors, though. I didn't even know temperature was important when I did my Mr. Beer batch, and let it ferment at 85F or so. Never saw the krausen rise - pitched yeast, went to sleep, went to work, and when I got home it was already done. Tasted like solvent, though.

No way. My temps will never go above 72. My primary is only 4 days old, but seems like there should be more things happening by now.
 
How does it taste?

Also take a strong flashlight (I use a 2D mag light) and shine it on the front while you look really close. If you can see the cloudy stuff kind of churning a little bit you're in the middle of fermentation.
 
How does it taste?

Also take a strong flashlight (I use a 2D mag light) and shine it on the front while you look really close. If you can see the cloudy stuff kind of churning a little bit you're in the middle of fermentation.

I think it is a little early to taste it? Its only 4 days old. I can smell some nice aromas coming from it... :)
 
Not at all too early to taste it.

When fermenting in a vessel with a spigot I like to taste it every day, just to see what's changing. It's pretty neat how the flavor profile will change in the wort as the really simple sugars are eaten leaving only progressively more complex sugars behind.

Also, if you can smell any aroma at all coming from the brewing keg while the lid is still on then the yeast are doing their work. The keg is sealed well enough that you'll only smell something if CO2 is being vented out.
 
When fermenting in a vessel with a spigot I like to taste it every day, just to see what's changing.

Remember, he only has 2 gallons there. If he tastes every day he's gonna end up with a single bottle. :)

On the other hand, if you're really going to draw a sample from the spigot, you might as well buy a hydrometer and test jar, and take a hydro sample before tasting it. That should tell you if it's fermenting.
 
I might just go pop in there. I see that Mr. Beer has a forum, but I think it is better to have some different perspectives. Especially those who dont use a pre-maid HME.

Yes, Mr. Beer has a forum, but Mr. Beer Fans isn't it. Folks there do everything from HME to full all grain with Mr. Beer. One of their regulars - D Rock - was recently a guest on Basic Brewing Radio.
 
I had the same exact symptoms and questions. Everyone said leave it alone and I prob just missed it. I don't know what temp I got it to when I pitched, and I just used their yeast. I also beat the crud out of it with a whisk to get air into it. Mine has been bottled a week now so I will know for sure in another week or two.
When I went to bottle it, fermentation was complete, it smelled and tasted like flat beer, not sweet. The mini-keg gad a nice bed of dead yeast at the bottom, and that smelled like bread when I cleaned it out.
Whatever you do, dont pitch it, just wait and see. I'm expecting some off-flavors as I prob pitched too warm, and used booster. I'll try and remember to add how mine turns out.
 
Not at all too early to taste it.

When fermenting in a vessel with a spigot I like to taste it every day, just to see what's changing. It's pretty neat how the flavor profile will change in the wort as the really simple sugars are eaten leaving only progressively more complex sugars behind.

Also, if you can smell any aroma at all coming from the brewing keg while the lid is still on then the yeast are doing their work. The keg is sealed well enough that you'll only smell something if CO2 is being vented out.


When fermenting in a vessel with a spigot I like to taste it every day, just to see what's changing.

Remember, he only has 2 gallons there. If he tastes every day he's gonna end up with a single bottle. :)

On the other hand, if you're really going to draw a sample from the spigot, you might as well buy a hydrometer and test jar, and take a hydro sample before tasting it. That should tell you if it's fermenting.


@whatisitgoodfor, qvantamon

Perhaps I will use a shot glass for tasting! I do have a hydrometer for aquariums. It does not take too much liquid to show a reading. I will do this on the 7th day of fermentation.


Yes, Mr. Beer has a forum, but Mr. Beer Fans isn't it. Folks there do everything from HME to full all grain with Mr. Beer. One of their regulars - D Rock - was recently a guest on Basic Brewing Radio.

Full grain? Seems to be a lot of trouble for just two gallons! If I ever get into full grain, I will be making 5-10 gallon batches! lol.. but for right now its just HME until I really get a grasp of the concepts.

I got a TiVo and I watch Basic Brewing. I just saw the sake episode. I would love to taste high quality sake. I really only have it at sushi restaurants. Tastes like "fire water" and "stringent" like. Not the best flavors.


I had the same exact symptoms and questions. Everyone said leave it alone and I prob just missed it. I don't know what temp I got it to when I pitched, and I just used their yeast. I also beat the crud out of it with a whisk to get air into it. Mine has been bottled a week now so I will know for sure in another week or two.
When I went to bottle it, fermentation was complete, it smelled and tasted like flat beer, not sweet. The mini-keg gad a nice bed of dead yeast at the bottom, and that smelled like bread when I cleaned it out.
Whatever you do, dont pitch it, just wait and see. I'm expecting some off-flavors as I prob pitched too warm, and used booster. I'll try and remember to add how mine turns out.

Noway! I will drink this even if it tastes terrible. I figure, I must know what bad beer tastes like to appreciate good beer. Please post your results or PM me.


I might go ahead and taste it tomorrow as well test the specific gravity. Thanks for all the input!
 
Ok I could not wait for tomorrow. I tested Specific Gravity and a taste test.


Specific Gravity appears to be a little low. Below 1.010 . I am pretty sure my hydrometer is working...

Color:

Light Gold. A little cloudy.

Taste:

Smooth. Light. You can taste the bite from the CO2. Tastes like flat beer. One thing I will add is that its kind of boring. Not too much of a flavor profile. Sort of watery.



So thats whats going on!
 
<1.010 sounds about right for that FG.

Is that the west coast pale ale kit? Boring and watery sounds accurate for that one :)

It gets a bit better when it's fully carbonated.
 
What does your hydrometer read in tap water?

And as to the flavor, if you were just making a basic Mr. Beer kit (1 can HME with a bag of booster) then there won't be a whole lot of flavor even when it's done.

I think my first kit was the Cowboy Gold Lager and it only had a little bit more flavor than Bud. The thing that kept me going was that the little bit of flavor that was there kicked ass.

As you let it condition for a few weeks, the flavors will meld and improve. When the CO2 from bottling diffuses in the beer you'll also pick up a little bit more of a bitter flavor to help balance it out.

It sounds like your fermentation is done now, just give it some more time to bulk condition and then bottle it.
 
I reply to quotes in red.

What does your hydrometer read in tap water?


The scale of the my hydrometer is made for brackish and salt water so the scale is narrow. 1.010-1.030. In tap it would read 1.010 being that the scale cannot go any lower to show 1.000, which is the SG of pure water. Tap water for all extensive purposes is 1.000 SG. I can cross check that with my refractormeter, which uses light refraction to show SG. I am not sure how well that would work with beer. I will give it a try though.

And as to the flavor, if you were just making a basic Mr. Beer kit (1 can HME with a bag of booster) then there won't be a whole lot of flavor even when it's done.

Just what is the booster? Is it a simple sugar? It did only come with one.

I think my first kit was the Cowboy Gold Lager and it only had a little bit more flavor than Bud. The thing that kept me going was that the little bit of flavor that was there kicked ass.


I agree. The flavors are exciting even though its not the most favorable. I dont know how anyone can stand to drink one homogenous tasting beer the rest of their lives. People will fight to the death for Bud and Miller of which is the best beer...


As you let it condition for a few weeks, the flavors will meld and improve. When the CO2 from bottling diffuses in the beer you'll also pick up a little bit more of a bitter flavor to help balance it out.

It sounds like your fermentation is done now, just give it some more time to bulk condition and then bottle it.

I have a friend who brews. He suggested that I should rack it off into another fermenter for another week, as the yeast are no longer alive and let it sit like that for a week. Then bottle for conditioning for a 2-4 weeks.

The color is golden as of right now. Similar in color as a wheat but more transparent.

 
Refractometers work well with beer. A lot of people use them (I just picked one up myself and I'm going to be using it on my next batch.)

The instructions say that the Booster Bag will add alcohol and body, so my guess is that it's a mix of corn sugar and malto-dextrin. Corn sugar is essentially completely fermentable (so it contributes no flavor at all, just alcohol) and malto-dextrine is completely unfermentable (also pretty much flavorless) so it just makes the beer feel thicker and less watery in your mouth.

As far as taking it off the yeast cakes goes, I personally wouldn't. The idea of taking your beer off of the dead yeast cells has some merit, but over the time frames that we usually make beer, the yeast isn't dying (it just goes into nappy time hibernation waiting for another piece of fruit to drop into into its puddle.)

Autolysis (yeast dying) can lead to some really awful flavors from what I've heard, but I have yet to experience it myself (or if I have it was to such a small degree that I couldn't taste it over the beer flavor.) The other advantage that people cite when racking to a secondary is improved clarity in the beer, but I have not noticed a difference in clarity between when I used a secondary and now.

I'm of the camp that leaves beer on the yeast for 3-4 weeks then kegging/bottling it. I like malty browns so I don't dry hop, but if I did I would just drop them into the primary after 2-3 weeks.
 
Refractometers work well with beer. A lot of people use them (I just picked one up myself and I'm going to be using it on my next batch.)

The instructions say that the Booster Bag will add alcohol and body, so my guess is that it's a mix of corn sugar and malto-dextrin. Corn sugar is essentially completely fermentable (so it contributes no flavor at all, just alcohol) and malto-dextrine is completely unfermentable (also pretty much flavorless) so it just makes the beer feel thicker and less watery in your mouth.

As far as taking it off the yeast cakes goes, I personally wouldn't. The idea of taking your beer off of the dead yeast cells has some merit, but over the time frames that we usually make beer, the yeast isn't dying (it just goes into nappy time hibernation waiting for another piece of fruit to drop into into its puddle.)

Autolysis (yeast dying) can lead to some really awful flavors from what I've heard, but I have yet to experience it myself (or if I have it was to such a small degree that I couldn't taste it over the beer flavor.) The other advantage that people cite when racking to a secondary is improved clarity in the beer, but I have not noticed a difference in clarity between when I used a secondary and now.

I'm of the camp that leaves beer on the yeast for 3-4 weeks then kegging/bottling it. I like malty browns so I don't dry hop, but if I did I would just drop them into the primary after 2-3 weeks.

Ah I see. I am not sure what I will do then. I am sort of new to beer as the process goes, but from so far from what I read, ales are the way to go. Lagering seems to be too much of a process.

Clarity doesn't really concern me. Nor does sediment. I wont be racking into a secondary then. If it adds taste? I would, but I assume that it wouldn't add too much.


Well I guess sense its finished early, I wont let it go to two weeks. What about letting it go 11 days or should it go longer?


When bottling and adding my sugar to the bottles. Does it have to be table sugar? Can I use evaporated cane sugar? Or whats best for the beer?
 
Ales are usually pretty much finished with the alcohol portion of the fermentation in a few days. Letting it sit longer lets the yeast clean up some of the chemicals they make during that really fast ferment, so it improves the overall flavor (or at least that's what I understand from reading all of the comments from the experienced people.)

Any fermentable sugar will work for carbonating beer. The instructions you have tell you the volume of table sugar to add to each bottle, and I don't know how to make the conversions you would need to for the other sugar types.

(Table sugar is 100% fermentable and has a certain weight per tsp. Brown sugar is probably 95% fermentable but has a different weight per spoonful. So depending on whether the brown sugar is more dense or less dense than table sugar you could end up with it taking more volume, less volume, or exactly the same.) Regardless, the amount of flavor imparted to your beer from the priming sugar is small enough to be ignored.
 
Ales are usually pretty much finished with the alcohol portion of the fermentation in a few days. Letting it sit longer lets the yeast clean up some of the chemicals they make during that really fast ferment, so it improves the overall flavor (or at least that's what I understand from reading all of the comments from the experienced people.)

Any fermentable sugar will work for carbonating beer. The instructions you have tell you the volume of table sugar to add to each bottle, and I don't know how to make the conversions you would need to for the other sugar types.

(Table sugar is 100% fermentable and has a certain weight per tsp. Brown sugar is probably 95% fermentable but has a different weight per spoonful. So depending on whether the brown sugar is more dense or less dense than table sugar you could end up with it taking more volume, less volume, or exactly the same.) Regardless, the amount of flavor imparted to your beer from the priming sugar is small enough to be ignored.


I thought about using brown sugar, but I figured it would be harder to ferment and add flavors that I do think I would appreciate yet. I also though about cane syrup which would be interesting, being that its in liquid form and highly available. I wouldnt know how much to add.

So I figured evaporated cane sugar is the closest thing to processed sugar. I might do a couple of different bottles with brown, table, and evaporated sugar.
 
O.k. Pejewell, Since this is my first batch - been bottled only 7 days, I wanted to taste mine even though its too soon. I figured, if even if it was green or bad, I'd learn what that tasted like.
It's BEER! it's just the West Coast Pale Ale that came with the kit, but its BEER that started - with WATER and STUFF! SO COOL! It opened from the pop-top with a loud POP, had good bubbles, and made an ok head in the glass.
Now its nothing too special, sort of like a super-fresh Bud you made at home, but still good. So mine made it ok, even tho I never saw ANY fermentation.

Oh, and read through the Mr Beer sticky at the top of this beginner's forum. They mostly recommend corn sugar to prime. I did that. Cost like 1.75$

Now as soon as I can buy the ingredients I'm going stove-top all grain Heffe!!
 
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