I broke a lot of rules

[danb35]

Maybe breaking a rule will have unanticipated benefits like better or more interesting beer.

See no-chill, BIAB, and no-boil, just to name a few off the top of my head.

 

[sibelman]

See no-chill, BIAB, and no-boil, just to name a few off the top of my head.

... or at least a speed/convenience benefit

 

[Deriede]

Just my own rules. I had a bad week and had a few homebrews before making this post, Kind of embarrassed about making it, but I usually have super strict personal rules. It was really fun to do let a little loose. Making this post kind of made me realize I've got to chill and let a hobby be a hobby.

Whose rules are you breaking? They must be your own rules. Or I'm just not understanding.

None of the things you mention in 1, 2 or 3 is a rule.

We will be excited to hear how it comes out though. Doing things differently is one of the ways we make different beer from the same stuff.

 

[Beernik]

1. The whole point of an IC is that it efficiently conducts heat. If you turn off the kettle and drop the IC in the wort, it becomes the same temperature as the wort really fast, certainly faster than I can chill from 212F to 165F. As for the thermal mass inside the IC, 20-feet of 1/4” copper tube holds about 7 ounces of water. For comparison, that’s about 1% of a 5 gallon brew.

2. As I said, 165F doesn’t kill everything but will kill most things that will infect beer. What your talking about is botulism.

Beer is not like canned fruits and veggies. If the ABV is > 6%, it will inhibit botulism. If the pH is < 5, it will inhibit botulism. And if both those conditions are not met, the residual oxygen content in wort after aeration is high enough to inhibit botulism.

A few things that come to mind are:

• Longer time let’s the heat travel up the pipes more to kill bugs not just under water.
• 165 doesn’t kill everything (pressure canning holds at like 250 for many minutes.)
• Throw chiller in with the 10min hops.
• The chiller needs to heat up and if it’s not fully drained it takes longer to reach temp.

None of these are going to 100% infect your beer, but it shouldn’t be baffling why people do it to be safe. Adding it 10min out doesn’t add any time to your brew day so why not toss it in?

 

[beren]

1. The whole point of an IC is that it efficiently conducts heat. If you turn off the kettle and drop the IC in the wort, it becomes the same temperature as the wort really fast, certainly faster than I can chill from 212F to 165F. As for the thermal mass inside the IC, 20-feet of 1/4” copper tube holds about 7 ounces of water. For comparison, that’s about 1% of a 5 gallon brew.

2. As I said, 165F doesn’t kill everything but will kill most things that will infect beer. What your talking about is botulism.

Beer is not like canned fruits and veggies. If the ABV is > 6%, it will inhibit botulism. If the pH is < 5, it will inhibit botulism. And if both those conditions are not met, the residual oxygen content in wort after aeration is high enough to inhibit botulism.

My point was, does it hurt you do do those things? My IC is 50' of stainless 1/2 tubing btw. I do try to drain it as best I can.

Also my diagnosed ADD/ADHD makes some tasks with many sequential steps harder, routine helps. I always forget something, hopefully not important again like adding the spices to the boil or the 60min hops. Forgetting the whilrfloc isn't so bad.