Hydrometer Advice Needed

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
There wasn't much info on that site, but looking at the pics I'd say the one on the left is a proof hydrometer for spirits like whisky. The one on the right looks like a hydrometer made to measure specific gravity=S.G. The one on the right (S.G.) is what you need to make wine and beer. Good luck.
 
There wasn't much info on that site, but looking at the pics I'd say the one on the left is a proof hydrometer for spirits like whisky. The one on the right looks like a hydrometer made to measure specific gravity=S.G. The one on the right (S.G.) is what you need to make wine and beer. Good luck.
Well then it's risky what if I order and I get the hydrometer not suitable for me.
 
Well then it's risky what if I order and I get the hydrometer not suitable for me.
That does not look like a hydrometer for measuring beer (or cider, wine, etc.). From what I see, the first marks are 1.000, 1.100, and 1.200 and the readings max out at 2.000. The second reading (1.100) is what you would expect as the OG for a 11% beer. The scale for most beer hydrometers maxes out around 1.160.

Looking at that site, nothing jumped out to me as a suitable hydrometer. There are a few refractometers that might work.
 
That does not look like a hydrometer for measuring beer (or cider, wine, etc.). From what I see, the first marks are 1.000, 1.100, and 1.200 and the readings max out at 2.000. The second reading (1.100) is what you would expect as the OG for a 11% beer. The scale for most beer hydrometers maxes out around 1.160.

Looking at that site, nothing jumped out to me as a suitable hydrometer. There are a few refractometers that might work.

I know there are plenty of refractometers on that site and they are not heavy on my pocket but as a beginner hydrometer suits me as it's easy and according to some more accurate. I have read that Refractometer after the fermentation gives inaccurate reading.
Anyway I ordered a three scale hydrometer for beer/wine from China in march. Still waiting to receive it .It sucks....
 
Last edited:
[...] The scale for most beer hydrometers maxes out around 1.160.
That's my experience too. Some may go to 1.170 or even 1.180, but most ones used for Beer, Wine, Cider, Mead, and such stay under 1.200. You'll get about a 4" (~10 cm) long scale between 0.990 and 1.160, so you can easily get a reading with a precision of 0.001 or 0.002. That's important.

In beer brewing (or, wine, mead, cider, etc.) OG (=Original Gravity) is the gravity before fermentation starts and is usually between 1.040-1.080 with a few outliers on either end. E.g, Patersbiers and some Milds on the lower end with Barleywines and Imperial Stouts and such on the higher end.
FG (=Final Gravity) after fermentation has completed are typically in the 1.000 and 1.020 range. 0.001 or 0.002 is the precision you'd want.

The one on the right (S.G.) is what you need to make wine and beer.
When you zoom in, the one on the right reads along the scale "Hydrometer for heavy liquids."
Could well be a Brix scale, I see a "B" and something that looks like an "o" or "e" after that, on the top of the scale, underneath the 0 mark. It's definitely not SG, as that scale doesn't start with 0.
In short, that one is not suitable for beer, wine etc, either.
 
Lol I mean Chinese sites.
And just wondering how in that green coloured liquid cylinder we can read a gravity reading ,isn't it supposed to be transparent?
Use a beer bottle or glass instead, or buy a clear 50ml graduated cylinder from a chem supply shop -- improvise. Folks who use the shipping/storage tube will often not notice the hydrometer rubbing up against the tube, creating inaccurate readings. They'll also not take two or three measures from a wetted hygrometer to get a decent average. But what kind of precision are you seeking?

I can't imagine the challenges of homebrewing in an Islamic country - beyond the tsk-tsk of local authorities, sourcing your grains/hops and such. But I imagine you have chemical supply houses -- they would stock what you want. I'd suggest sourcing from India or SE Asia, but maybe that's geopolitically challenging. Are you allowed to trade with New Zealand or Australia?
 
Use a beer bottle or glass instead, or buy a clear 50ml graduated cylinder from a chem supply shop -- improvise. Folks who use the shipping/storage tube will often not notice the hydrometer rubbing up against the tube, creating inaccurate readings. They'll also not take two or three measures from a wetted hygrometer to get a decent average. But what kind of precision are you seeking?

I can't imagine the challenges of homebrewing in an Islamic country - beyond the tsk-tsk of local authorities, sourcing your grains/hops and such. But I imagine you have chemical supply houses -- they would stock what you want. I'd suggest sourcing from India or SE Asia, but maybe that's geopolitically challenging. Are you allowed to trade with New Zealand or Australia?
Well so far no problems from authorities when it comes to sourcing equipment and materials. The only issue is the waiting time when you source things from abroad.
All funnels, measuring cylinders are easily available here online or in chemical stores.
Different hydrometers available as well.
It's just the hydrometer for alcohol measuring isn't available. Because no one here uses hydrometer for that particular purpose.
I can mostly count on china. Issues with India etc.
 
Well so far no problems from authorities when it comes to sourcing equipment and materials. The only issue is the waiting time when you source things from abroad.
All funnels, measuring cylinders are easily available here online or in chemical stores.
Different hydrometers available as well.
It's just the hydrometer for alcohol measuring isn't available. Because no one here uses hydrometer for that particular purpose.
I can mostly count on china. Issues with India etc.
When I first started homebrewing, I was in grad school for Chemistry. We had one natural foods / homebrew supply store off of N Main St. As the drinking age had risen to 21, quite a few undergrads in Chemistry had figured out it was easier to homebrew in their dorm rooms than try to buy beer with a fake i.d. Most RAs (resident advisors, kind of dorm floor monitors) looked the other way for a bottle or so per batch. The campus still has a very active Homebrew club.
 
When I first started homebrewing, I was in grad school for Chemistry. We had one natural foods / homebrew supply store off of N Main St. As the drinking age had risen to 21, quite a few undergrads in Chemistry had figured out it was easier to homebrew in their dorm rooms than try to buy beer with a fake i.d. Most RAs (resident advisors, kind of dorm floor monitors) looked the other way for a bottle or so per batch. The campus still has a very active Homebrew club.
Yeah necessity is the mother of invention.
Often in difficult times we learn the most. There is no learning if we take everything for granted.
My situation is even more difficult than you because locally most brewing equipment is not available.
Thanks there is a thing called internet today from where I can learn the craft or else it's a dead end. There is no brewing or distilling knowledge among people here. Or few people who make moonshine in our villages and die every year from methanol poisoning ,I don't need any knowledge from them lol because my life is precious to me.
 
Yeah necessity is the mother of invention.
Often in difficult times we learn the most. There is no learning if we take everything for granted.
My situation is even more difficult than you because locally most brewing equipment is not available.
Thanks there is a thing called internet today from where I can learn the craft or else it's a dead end. There is no brewing or distilling knowledge among people here. Or few people who make moonshine in our villages and die every year from methanol poisoning ,I don't need any knowledge from them lol because my life is precious to me.
Well, you can make GREAT beer without measuring the ABV - so take heart. Historically, brewers just got a feel over time (or a taste). We're helping the yeasties make beer, not distilling paint stripper. If you put your kit together, it burps for a week or three, you bottle or keg it and let it mellow a few weeks, you'll be fine. Your batches to date have been tasty, no?

Yeah, OK, so I'm a trained/degreed scientist and can babble on endlessly about the marvels of Saccharomyces cerevisiae or the enzymatic pathway to joy (pyruvate decarboxylase and ADH). In the end, precious little of that goes into making a good brew. The geek in me applauds you for wanting to quantify - but I bet your batches turn out just dandy without :)
 
Well, you can make GREAT beer without measuring the ABV - so take heart. Historically, brewers just got a feel over time (or a taste). We're helping the yeasties make beer, not distilling paint stripper. If you put your kit together, it burps for a week or three, you bottle or keg it and let it mellow a few weeks, you'll be fine. Your batches to date have been tasty, no?

Yeah, OK, so I'm a trained/degreed scientist and can babble on endlessly about the marvels of Saccharomyces cerevisiae or the enzymatic pathway to joy (pyruvate decarboxylase and ADH). In the end, precious little of that goes into making a good brew. The geek in me applauds you for wanting to quantify - but I bet your batches turn out just dandy without :)
I've made some alcohol last year without any hydrometer. The first sip was enough to told me how much abv it is and after a half glass I can assure it was between 7-10% abv. Because I've drank commercial wine as well with around same abv strength , so I can make a comparison.There was the same kind of intoxicated feeling after drinking the same amount. Though taste was different maybe because I used the bakers yeast.
But this time I am looking for more control and to fine tune my craft.
 
I've made some alcohol last year without any hydrometer. The first sip was enough to told me how much abv it is and after a half glass I can assure it was between 7-10% abv. Because I've drank commercial wine as well with around same abv strength , so I can make a comparison.There was the same kind of intoxicated feeling after drinking the same amount. Though taste was different maybe because I used the bakers yeast.
But this time I am looking for more control and to fine tune my craft.
Cool. It really comes down to personal taste. Inputs -> time/temp -> Outputs. I've made a couple of 10%+ batches, and have to say I've backed off from adding in that extra kg or more of malt or extract. My favs now tend to be 5-8%. Standardized to a 19L (5gal, because here in the US, metric scares politicians).

More power to ya tuning things.
 
I know there are plenty of refractometers on that site and they are not heavy on my pocket but as a beginner hydrometer suits me as it's easy and according to some more accurate. I have read that Refractometer after the fermentation gives inaccurate reading.
Anyway I ordered a three scale hydrometer for beer/wine from China in march. Still waiting to receive it .It sucks....
Yep, refractometers are great before fermentation, but can really be WAY off after fermentation. A hydrometer is your best bet IMO. I run across this all of the time. I use them both and compare. I quit ordering parts from places in China. Their shipping times are horrendous. The quality, from well known manufacturers, is excellent. I can’t see giving them money anymore unless I absolutely have to.
 
all the hydros that 'measure' ABV do is subtract Final Gravity from Original Gravity? you can use a calculator to do the same?
Yeah but the reading on the meter is the real issue. As many pointed on this thread the ones available to me locally aren't suitable for beer and wine making.
 
The larger the range of your hydrometer the harder it'll be to read. Or at least the more you'll be wondering if it's saying x.xx2 or x.xx3 or even x.xx4.

So try to keep the range a close as you can to what you will be brewing. For me, I'm never going to brew a beer over 1.080. So I found one that goes to 1.100 and it's much easier to read than the one I started with that went to 1.160.

There are even some that are called finishing hydrometers to get your FG very accurately and have an even narrower range with about a 1.020 max reading.

Check with laboratory supply places locally or online.
 
Yeah but the reading on the meter is the real issue. As many pointed on this thread the ones available to me locally aren't suitable for beer and wine making.


and as i said the one i posted a link too reads from 1.000, to 1.060...so perfect for most beers...

1652726143152.png



it even comes with two, so one doesn'
t get lonely! ;)
 
It's just the hydrometer for alcohol measuring isn't available.
When fermenting beer (or wine, cider, mead, etc.) we do NOT measure alcohol.*

Instead, we measure the change in gravity (in SG or Brix), which is an indication of its sugar content.
For that we use a hydrometer or a refractometer (for sugar, not salt, or other solutes such as antifreeze, etc.).

The OG (original gravity) is the gravity of the sugar solution (an indication of sugar content) before fermentation.
The FG (final gravity), the gravity after fermentation has completed.
With these 2 numbers (OG and FG), expressed in SG (e.g., 1.016) we can calculate alcohol content:

(OG - FG) * 131.25 = % Alcohol by volume (%ABV)​

Or even simpler, use a calculator such as this one:
https://www.brewersfriend.com/abv-calculator/
The equations used and the theory behind those calculators is here:
https://www.brewersfriend.com/2011/06/16/alcohol-by-volume-calculator-updated/
On a side note...
I've made some alcohol last year [...]
Look around here, there are not many homebrewers who talk like that, and we tend to frown upon those who do...

We brew beer, make wine, cider, mead, etc. We are proud of the homebrew we make. Believe it or not, making alcohol is NOT the sole or even main reason we homebrew, I think I'm speaking for most of us.

For most homebrewers, alcohol is considered a byproduct of fermentation. Sure, alcohol helps carrying flavor, aroma, and such and it may give you a little buzz, comes with the territory, we don't shy away from it.
IOW, the majority of homebrewers enjoy the fermented products we make. We try perfecting our techniques to make our homebrew efforts better, such as flavor, aroma, color, foam, mouthfeel, sensation, etc., improving overall quality. Alcohol just comes with it, but we're not solely homebrewing for the buzz.

I understand, in countries where alcohol consumption is outlawed, making some for personal consumption can be the holy grail. Shhh, hush hush!
And yeah, without that one would also miss experiencing those awesome flavors, aromas, mouthfeel, and other sensations that come with fermented products. Heck, even a little buzz can be needed at times, or is just a welcome side effect.

* Those who distill do measure alcohol content directly in a similar way we measure sugar content (gravity).
 
If you haven't used a hydrometer before, there are a few things you should know. Hydrometers are calibrated at a set temp, typically 60 or 68 degrees. You should cool your wort to the calibration temp when taking readings or use an online calculator to do the temperature correction. The calibration temp is usually printed on the hydrometer somewhere.

https://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/
Another thing is they're pretty fragile. Make sure you have enough liquid in your test jar so the hydrometer doesn't bottom out and break. If you break a hydrometer and you probably will, there's a post for that.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/official-broken-hydrometer-count.148083/
 
When fermenting beer (or wine, cider, mead, etc.) we do NOT measure alcohol.*
Instead, we measure (specific) gravity (SG or Brix), which is an indication of its sugar content.
For that we use a hydrometer or a refractometer (for sugar, not salt, or other solutes such as antifreeze, etc.).

The OG (original gravity) is the gravity of the sugar solution (an indication of sugar content) before fermentation, the FG (final gravity), after it's done.
With these 2 numbers expressed in SG (e.g., 1.016) we can calculate alcohol content:
(OG - FG) * 131.25 = % Alcohol by volume (%ABV)​
Or even simpler, use a calculator such as this one:
https://www.brewersfriend.com/abv-calculator/
The equations used and the theory behind those calculators is here:
https://www.brewersfriend.com/2011/06/16/alcohol-by-volume-calculator-updated/
On a side note...

Look around here, there are not many homebrewers who talk like that, and we tend to frown upon those who do...

We brew beer, make wine, cider, mead, etc. We are proud of the homebrew we make. Believe it or not, making alcohol is NOT the sole or even main reason we homebrew, I think I'm speaking for most of us.

For most homebrewers, alcohol is considered a byproduct of fermentation. Sure, alcohol helps carrying flavor, aroma, and such and it may give you a little buzz, comes with the territory, we don't shy away from it.
IOW, the majority of homebrewers enjoy the fermented products we make. We try perfecting our techniques to make our homebrew efforts better, such as flavor, aroma, color, foam, mouthfeel, sensation, etc., improving overall quality. Alcohol just comes with it, but we're not solely homebrewing for the buzz.

I understand, in countries where alcohol consumption is outlawed, making some for personal consumption can be the holy grail. Shhh, hush hush!
And yeah, without that one would also miss experiencing those awesome flavors, aromas, mouthfeel, and other sensations that come with fermented products. Heck, even a little buzz can be needed at times, or is just a welcome side effect.

* Those who distill do measure alcohol content directly in a similar way we measure sugar content (gravity).
I ve passed that stage of drinking just for the sake of getting high long time ago. In my initial days of drinking as a teenager the sole aim was to get high lol and act like drunk people in indian movies. Started with low quality local made whisky and vodka , which was just a harsh ethanol without any aroma and flavor. Often drank too much and ended up vomiting ewwww.... because I had no idea how to drink properly. One time I got violent and verbally abuse my friend lol. Once I called girl a slut in a classroom in front of a teacher lol.
Three times I got caught by the police.
In summers when the temperature hits 45 C here I was drinking vodka neat lol didn't knew its made for a cold weather. Then followed the crisis of puking and worst hangover.
Then after around two years everything changed when I got my hands on imported smuggled alcohol through a bootlegger in my city who provide alcohol to elite social class here. My first whisky was teachers scotch whisky. After drinking that whisky my whole perception of alcohol was changed ,what a beautiful combination of aromas, spices, fruity notes , woody character and buzz was present in that whisky. I drank little shots on the rocks and slight water on the recommendation of a pro whisky drinker in my social circle. I realized the whiskies I drank before were just insult to a whisky. Then tried imported beer , wine etc and all were exceptionally good. Though the one and only brewery we have produces beer which is equally good to any other imported beer.
In 2012 I moved to Russia for a study. Overthere I drank all kinds of high quality alcohol and learnt to drink properly by mingling among the local Russians and other foreigners.
Since then I never repeated those initial days mistakes and now when I drink I also look for a aroma, taste etc besides a buzz. I am on this forum for a reason ,I am aiming to produce a equally good product like what you people drink in the western world.
Finally I didn't mean to offend you or anyone. Sorry that was not intentional. Peace.
 
Last edited:
well i just f'd around...

used my hydro, that's 'plain form' even to do it so ALL it has is SG....goes from .995 to 1.070....

and this chart to confirm just because i wanted to know if i'm stupid or not...didn't have any sodium chloride on hand, but did have some poassium (i use it for making lite salt)....

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/...anic-potassium-salt-concentration-d_1956.html
so i added ~38g's sugar to water that was brought up to 250ml... got the ~1.058 i should...then i added 18g's potassium chloride to the cyclinder and brought up to 250ml...and got what that chart tells me i should? which i was shooting for 7.5%/wt so that the readings would be similar? and they were? so yeah salinity hydros JUST measure SG? which works for all kinds of different dissasosiated stuff in water?

(and mof'rs 38g's of sugar could have been THREE beers worth! 🤣)
 
now when I drink I also look for a aroma, taste etc besides a buzz. I am on this forum for a reason ,I am aiming to produce a equally good product like what you people drink in the western world.
Glad to hear, we're all on the same page then: you, me, and the large majority of members on this site.
All good!

With those aspects in mind, creating excellent fermented (and alcoholic) beverages that rival and surpass commercial products, there is much more to talk about.

For starters:
=> Are you controlling the temps of your fermentations (beer, wine, etc.), and how?
Fermentation temps are probably the single most important variable to create better beer.

The optimum temp range to ferment at is mostly determined by the yeast strain you're using, and the flavor/aroma profile you're after. Fermenting at higher temps increases the formation of higher order (or fusel) alcohols that don't taste good, as well as other byproducts that can (and will) negatively impact the flavor/aroma of your beer (or wine, mead, etc.).
 
With those aspects in mind, creating excellent fermented (and alcoholic) beverages that rival and surpass commercial products, there is much more to talk about.
For you it's just saving money , following passion.
Though for me it's much more than that.
 
well i was laughing, and am self consious....so i just bought this thing off ebay....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/294484647280?hash=item4490a71d70:g:SYcAAMXQ855Rv6L7

going to float it next to my other hydro next to each other see if they are agreeable, and i get some....



ALL FOR THE SAKE OF, well...i good laugh, and to help a brother not waste his Rs's! :mug:

Thanks man but I think you should not waste your dollars to save my rupees lol. I can wait for my Chinese parcel ,I am used to waiting that's my destiny lol.
That meter you ordered looks like a identical product I have available on daraz.pk.
On a positive its a good research and will increase your knowledge.Cheers 🍺
 
If you haven't used a hydrometer before, there are a few things you should know. Hydrometers are calibrated at a set temp, typically 60 or 68 degrees. You should cool your wort to the calibration temp when taking readings or use an online calculator to do the temperature correction. The calibration temp is usually printed on the hydrometer somewhere.

https://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/
Another thing is they're pretty fragile. Make sure you have enough liquid in your test jar so the hydrometer doesn't bottom out and break. If you break a hydrometer and you probably will, there's a post for that.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/official-broken-hydrometer-count.148083/
Rather than take the time to chill the wort, why not measure the temp and make the correction? An inexpensive BBQ instant read thermometer is available for around $10. As for hydrometers being fragile, we never order only one. Buy two.
 
Back
Top