HOWTO - Make a BrewPi Fermentation Controller For Cheap

[bufford]

Just change your 99-arduino.rules using serial numbers instead of ports with whatever symlink names you want to use...

Set up identifiers for UNOS:

Remove all but one UNO from the USB ports and hubs, then run these commands:

$ udevadm info -a -n /dev/ttyACM0 | less > info.log
$ nano info.log

 looking at parent device '/devices/platform/bcm2708_usb/usb1/1-1/1-1.3/1-1.3.4':
    KERNELS=="1-1.3.4" 
 		ATTRS{manufacturer}=="Arduino (www.arduino.cc)"
 		ATTRS{serial}=="85336303532351F0A031"

Repeat for additional UNOS on the USB ports

Then create the rules files:

$ sudo nano /etc/udev/rules.d/99-arduino.rules

SUBSYSTEM=="tty", KERNEL=="ttyACM*" , ATTRS{serial}=="85336303532351F0A031", SYMLINK+="brewpi1", GROUP="brewpi"
SUBSYSTEM=="tty", KERNEL=="ttyACM*" , ATTRS{serial}=="85334333931351F0F020", SYMLINK+="brewpi2", GROUP="brewpi"

Then reload them...

$ sudo /etc/init.d/udev reload

...and you should be off and running again...

Cheers!

I have tried this and get invalid option - - 'a' as a response. I feel like this should be an easy thing that I should know but I just can't see what I am doing wrong.

 

[wbarber69]

You removed all but one uno? if so try it without the -a

 

[day_trippr]

I just executed

$ udevadm info -a -n /dev/ttyACM0 | less > info.log
$ nano info.log

on a Pi2 running Wheezy with a boatload of peripherals and another Pi2 running Jessie with and without a single USB-connected Uno and they both respond as documented.

Don't know what to offer...

Cheers!

 

[wbarber69]

Maybe he typed it wrong or put a space behind the dash

 

[bufford]

Does it matter what directory (folder) I am in? Does it make a difference between the Root Terminal or just Terminal?

 

[wbarber69]

Just open terminal and begin typing

 

[cbier60]

One question I have. Is there a way to save the data that was logged for each session and perhaps a chart as well?

It saves it for you. Go to the maintenance panel and select "Previous Beers". Then there is a drop down with your previous logging sessions.

All of the data is saved on the Raspberry Pi's SD card.

plus export to CSV file

Is there a way to copy the file via the web interface, perhaps just by using Putty? I don't want to pull the card from the Pi to read while I have an active fermentation.

Also, my display shows the last week or so of temperatures. I'm assuming that a new log is created when I hit 'Apply' with the new profile. Is this correct? I just started my 2nd fermentation with this a few days ago.

 

[gromitdj]

If you export the CSV file from the web interface, you will have a file that can be imported into any spreadsheet program. I believe you can use Putty to copy the files from the Pi. (I've only used Filezilla for that purpose)

The same log is used regardless of what setting your are in. Fridge Constant, Beer Constant, or Profile. If you switch between any of them or make changes to the profile, it comments the graph/log. A new log is only created if you stop the current session and begin a new one.

 

[canofworms]

The error is saying it cant create a folder named Y, i assume your answering Y to the question where its asking you where you want to install. Its not a yes or no question, its asking you for a path. Just hit enter so that it uses the default in the []'s. In general for the entire install.sh you should press nothing but enter. You may want to answer No to the Wifi question near the end if you dont use Wifi, but other than that the defaults are good.

If your using Wheezy its /var/www, and if your on Jessie or newer its /var/www/html, the install should auto fill that in but when you get to the update.py step later on to choose the legacy branch you may have to manually enter it if it gets it wrong.

I think the Brewpi auto installer has been updated to point to /var/www/html so there's no need to change anything apart from running the legacy update at the end.

I used it the other week to reinstall brewpi on my C.H.I.P that's running Jessie.

Thanks again FuzzeWuzze and Mikmonken for the help on the install. Got everything boxed up this evening and tested. Working great, although just holding final temp on a Belgian Blonde that's just about finished, so haven't run it though its full paces yet. Really looking forward to the next fermentation. Even though I had an externally mounted heat/cool switch on my Johnson 419 I still had to physically change the mode and plug in the heat or cool.... not to mention compensate for the overshoot and outside temp... really a drag. Hopefully all of that is behind me... and I can control the BrewPi from anywhere.... amazing! Thanks again!!

 

[bscuderi]

Not sure if this has been touched on before but I thought I would share. I was attempting to follow the making brewpi public and password protected pages for access out of my network and got lost in all the steps of code and router permissions etc. I never could get it working even if I had figured out the code of it all I figure updates would be more difficult to have to rechange stuff etc. let alone my isp seemed to block any port forwarding attempts I made. I'm sure it's cause I was a total noob. Anyways I stumbled upon an app called weaved that took me literally one minute to setup and might be easier for anyone else computer illiterate that wished they could access brewpi away from home. For anyone that's interested it might not be as clean or fast as the other set up im not totally sure. The only downfall I've noticed is it seems a little slow to load but it allows me to access my brewpi from an app on my iPhone or iPad when out of network and it doesn't get any easier than that. You could also access password protected from the web site. Here's a screenshot of the app

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1466749698.711958.jpg

As you can see two devices listed one that goes to the web server of the pi and the other that even allows remote connection of ssh to the pi

For anyone interested in how to install open a command prompt and type

sudo apt-get install weavedconnectd

Then go to this website

https://developer.weaved.com/portal/index.php

Create an account

Then in the command prompt type

sudo weavedinstaller

Follow the onscreen instructions to install access to webpage ssh or both and that's it done!! No long code! You can now log in from web or go to the App Store and download the weaved app for your iPhone or iPad for even easier access. Makes it so brewpi is a mobile app. I still connect via browser and IP address when I'm in network just cause it's way faster.

Here a screenshot of my first brewpi beer happily fermenting in my 100 degree plus shed in Phoenix while I get peace of mind checking on it from Salt Lake City thanks to everyone that helped with my build and made this possible it's perfect for a work taveler like me

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1466750890.623675.jpg

 

[LBussy]

Not sure if this has been touched on before but I thought I would share. [...]
sudo apt-get install weavedconnectd

Then go to this website

https://developer.weaved.com/portal/index.php

Create an account

Then in the command prompt type

sudo weavedinstaller

Follow the onscreen instructions to install access to webpage ssh or both and that's it done!!

Just had a free moment to try this ... it's great! Thanks for sharing.

 

[LBussy]

Thanks again FuzzeWuzze and Mikmonken for the help on the install. Got everything boxed up this evening and tested. Working great, although just holding final temp on a Belgian Blonde that's just about finished, so haven't run it though its full paces yet. Really looking forward to the next fermentation. Even though I had an externally mounted heat/cool switch on my Johnson 419 I still had to physically change the mode and plug in the heat or cool.... not to mention compensate for the overshoot and outside temp... really a drag. Hopefully all of that is behind me... and I can control the BrewPi from anywhere.... amazing! Thanks again!!

What's the component on top of the box?

I assume the one middle-left is the power supply?

 

[day_trippr]

If you mean the black object with the red/black wires at the top of the picture, I'm betting it's a DC fan (maybe 40mm).

I don't see any matching ventilation holes in the case, however.
Maybe they're under one of the modules...

Cheers!

 

[canofworms]

What's the component on top of the box?

I assume the one middle-left is the power supply?

If you mean the black object with the red/black wires at the top of the picture, I'm betting it's a DC fan (maybe 40mm).

I don't see any matching ventilation holes in the case, however.
Maybe they're under one of the modules...

Cheers!

Yep, top is a 40mm fan, there are four vent holes at the bottom of the box behind the AC power cables. Lives in a So Cal garage so wanted to make sure there was some ventilation. Middle left is a step down converter that takes the 12V DC needed for the fan and steps down to 7V for the arduino.

 

[Bigdaddyale]

Yep, top is a 40mm fan, there are four vent holes at the bottom of the box behind the AC power cables. Lives in a So Cal garage so wanted to make sure there was some ventilation. Middle left is a step down converter that takes the 12V DC needed for the fan and steps down to 7V for the arduino.

So Ca. you say? Brewlu?

 

[Bigdaddyale]

could that 12v dc power wires running through the coiled usb cable cause some kind of interference?

 

[canofworms]

could that 12v dc power wires running through the coiled usb cable cause some kind of interference?

12V is fed to the box separately from an external power supply, not through the USB cable.

 

[Bigdaddyale]

12V is fed to the box separately from an external power supply, not through the USB cable.

I was wondering if the 12 volt wires could cause some kind of electrical interference with the data that pass through the looped usb cable.

 

[wbarber69]

The USB cable "should" be shielded. and the coil should make it magically impervious to interference.

 

[canofworms]

I was wondering if the 12 volt wires could cause some kind of electrical interference with the data that pass through the looped usb cable.

Sorry mis understood the question. Ya have had no issues as of now. Haven't cut the cable open to see but I've never seen an unshielded USB before. You literally meant the wound up up 1 foot USB cable at the top. Totally my bad, my brain didn't follow the looped part initially.

 

[canofworms]

Sorry mis understood the question. Ya have had no issues as of now. Haven't cut the cable open to see but I've never seen an unshielded USB before. You literally meant the wound up up 1 foot USB cable at the top. Totally my bad, my brain didn't follow the looped part initially.

And as I say that I just cut apart 2 stray USB cables that came with the Arduino and sure enough no shield. Data wires were not even twisted. So I guess there are plenty of cheap unshielded USB cables in the world. If I ever have an connectivity issues between the Pi and Arduino I'll make this my first suspect but 1 week into use and all is well so far.

 

[bloombrews]

I also tried to port forward my router so I could access it away from home. There were some good feedback here on this, but I never could get anything to work. I will try your "weave" app and see if this works for me.
Thanks!

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

And as I say that I just cut apart 2 stray USB cables that came with the Arduino and sure enough no shield. Data wires were not even twisted. So I guess there are plenty of cheap unshielded USB cables in the world. If I ever have an connectivity issues between the Pi and Arduino I'll make this my first suspect but 1 week into use and all is well so far.

A lot of people have had issues with **** USB cables corrupting the serial data going over the line in this thread. If it does happen, or if you want to just be proactive keep the cables away from eachother and or buy a few cheap snap on ferrite core/beads on Amazon and put one on either side of your USB cable and at the end of your radiating power lines.

 

[canofworms]

So Ca. you say? Brewlu?

Not a member of Brewlu. But everything I see on the Facebook page make it look like a fine group of folks. Know how to have a good time

 

[captinsmash]

I've followed the steps for a multiple chamber setup but I'm stuck. When I type in the brewpi address (10.1.1.7) I just get the default Apache2 it works page. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[UltraHighABV]

Hey guys, I'm starting my build and have what will probably sound like a trivial question:

So the power cable we cut gets plugged into a standard wall outlet, and the other end gets wired up to the other outlet we purchased. Both our freezer and heater get plugged into this outlet, and the power for the raspberry pi also gets plugged into a main outlet

is this correct? So on your wall you have the pi power supply and our cut power cord, and on the wired outlet we have the heater and our freezer?

Thanks!

 

[wbarber69]

I've followed the steps for a multiple chamber setup but I'm stuck. When I type in the brewpi address (10.1.1.7) I just get the default Apache2 it works page. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Did you remember to add the folder name on the end of that. I don't know what you called your setup but it would go
10.1.1.7/instance1

 

[wbarber69]

Hey guys, I'm starting my build and have what will probably sound like a trivial question:

So the power cable we cut gets plugged into a standard wall outlet, and the other end gets wired up to the other outlet we purchased. Both our freezer and heater get plugged into this outlet, and the power for the raspberry pi also gets plugged into a main outlet

is this correct? So on your wall you have the pi power supply and our cut power cord, and on the wired outlet we have the heater and our freezer?

Thanks!

Kinda. if I were you I'd consult a certified electrician before you go plugging expensive things into mains power if you aren't confident with your understanding of the wiring. I assume that since you didn't mention it, you probably glanced over the part where you need to isolate the two outlets by removing the tab.

 

[UltraHighABV]

nah i got it, im aware you have to break the jumper i just wanted to make sure i had the general gist of what goes where. here goes nothing!

 

[captinsmash]

Did you remember to add the folder name on the end of that. I don't know what you called your setup but it would go
10.1.1.7/instance1

Awesome, I ran sudo apt-get update then sudo apt-get upgrade. Then a reboot and it works!!!

One other thing that I struggled with was not having a powered USB hub to begin with. First USB hub wouldn't recognize the 3 Unos.

 

[bscuderi]

I also tried to port forward my router so I could access it away from home. There were some good feedback here on this, but I never could get anything to work. I will try your "weave" app and see if this works for me.

Thanks!

How did weaved work out for you?

 

[Elkaybay]

How did weaved work out for you?

I just set Weaved up and it's great! Super easy to set-up and works flawlessly from my Android phone over 4G network as well as from a friend's house WIFI.

Enter your login and password, and you're brought to the var/www/(html) folder of your Raspberry Pi.

 

[flanken]

I feel like a total newb... I'm on step one, trying to hook my Arduino up to the relay module and failing with my wiring...

I have 18 gauge stranded hookup wire, and can't seem to get it into the female slots on the Arduino. Should I be using a different gauge, or solid instead of stranded?

I'm totally out of my league on this project, but feel like this is a good chance to learn something totally new... thanks for any help!

 

[day_trippr]

You're trying to stuff 18 ga stranded wire ends into the Uno header sockets?
Even assuming that would work reliably (I doubt it) what were you going to do at the other ends - that have to slip over pins?

If you order right now, you can get a better solution delivered by Friday...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UKQF8BU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Cheers!

 

[GrogNerd]

I feel like a total newb... I'm on step one, trying to hook my Arduino up to the relay module and failing with my wiring...

I have 18 gauge stranded hookup wire, and can't seem to get it into the female slots on the Arduino. Should I be using a different gauge, or solid instead of stranded?

I'm totally out of my league on this project, but feel like this is a good chance to learn something totally new... thanks for any help!

definitely different gauge... those jumper wires are perfect

the Arduino is low voltage DC and you're hooking it to the 5VDC side of the relay. the only thing the Arduino is doing here is supplying a HI or LO signal to that side to OPEN or CLOSE the circuit on the other side of the relay

which is the AC side and requires the 18 gauge hookup to the power outlet. this is what turns on/off the heating/cooling elements

 

[flanken]

If you order right now, you can get a better solution delivered by Friday...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UKQF8BU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Gee that does look quite a bit easier :smack:

THANK YOU

 

[flanken]

...which is the AC side and requires the 18 gauge hookup to the power outlet. this is what turns on/off the heating/cooling elements

So I have the correct wire, just trying to use it in the wrong spot...? Jumpers for hooking up the Arduino to the relay and stranded 18 gauge for the power side?

I told you I'm a newb at this... The closest thing I get to hooking up wires and electronics is plugging the 1/4" cable into my bass guitar and my amplifier... that I can do... this... this is something completely different...

 

[day_trippr]

Signal wires can be as fine as you want to go, only moderated by breakage potential.
26 awg stranded is a good survivable size for signals.

Power wiring through the relay is a different matter, and suitable wire gauge depends on load and length.
You can use 18 awg stranded for short jumpers between the relay and a simplex or duplex outlet.
But you don't want to buy an 18 gauge line cord to run your fridge/freezer/heater as it'd be undersized at any reasonable length...

Cheers!

 

[flanken]

Signal wires can be as fine as you want to go, only moderated by breakage potential.

26 awg stranded is a good survivable size for signals.



Power wiring through the relay is a different matter, and suitable wire gauge depends on load and length.

You can use 18 awg stranded for short jumpers between the relay and a simplex or duplex outlet.

But you don't want to buy an 18 gauge line cord to run your fridge/freezer/heater as it'd be undersized at any reasonable length...



Cheers!

Thanks @day_trippr ... Assuming this goes well my next goal will be to integrate the LCD screen using the instructions in the thread you started.

I've never soldered before, should be interesting...

 

[MBasile]

It's pretty cool being able to tell when the majority of the fermentation has finished!