HOWTO - Make a BrewPi Fermentation Controller For Cheap

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Ok, so I am thinking about starting this project. I wanted to start with downloading Wheezy and installing it to my computer. I have an extra laptop that is not doing anything at the moment and I thought it would be an easy way to jump into this project,,,,,,,,,,,or not. I say not because after 2 days I have tried to get all the drivers to work on this OS and it’s been driving me crazy. I have looked at several YouTube videos, and spend about 10 hours reading about how to install the missing drivers all to no avail. Just can’t figure it out. So it’s been frustrating to me to not see my computer working like it should.

Wheezy does not work. It works, but the wireless driver says it’s missing. HElP!!! This is not a computer board, but also there are several (or more than several) people on this thread could be useful in resolving this problem. The driver conflict is with the wireless driver. During the install it says that there needs to be a B43/udode15.fw B43-open/ucode15.fw file that needs to be loaded. It’s very difficult to find. Upon reading more about it, just skipping this part and moving on seems to be the best alternative. Thinking here is to install it later with a wired connection, and it seemed like it would be harmless to do so. After letting it rip though the install Wheezy was finally up and running (missing the wireless driver). It looks like it could be a nice OS once a person gets use to it, and would be a nice alternative to windows 8 (which is not cool for me). However digressing, looking for a way to install this driver, several sites recommend two options. Ether using a software installer, or using something called a terminal, which looks to be nothing more than a dos prompt program. Having tried to do it both ways, and several of the other options on YouTube, there still is no success. The computer is a HP G550 computer, with Broadcom 4312 driver that needs to be installed. Relevant changes to the computer are that the file system has been changed from running windows vista to XP in the bios. This has never been changed back, but could be done easily, if need be. Another problem might be that looking at several sites and YouTubes are that other people have different computer systems and different Linux systems. Ubuntu, sees to be a popular one. Running Debian Wheezy is the one of choice for me, since this tread recommends it for setting up the fermentation controller Fuzzy set up here. Does anyone on this thread have a for sure foolproof method of installing this driver”?

Further steps that could be taken might be reading the help guide, which is really kind of like a manual. It would be useful for no other reason, other than to become familiar with the operating system and its functionality. One step further, could quite possibly be resetting the file system in BIOS to accept the Vista file system. However I am not really sure any of these additional steps would really do anything. Also getting a new wireless adaptor would do the trick. I am confident of that. Reading somewhere that a wireless adaptor (cant thing of the name off the top of my head at the moment) that uses open source software would do the trick in getting to the next step. However for 26 dollars or something like that, it would be easier for me to get a Rpi and go that route, thus defeating the purpose of using the computer. Also another option would be just to scrap the whole project and use the STI controller, like the one being used on my keezer, but this project for me is much more interesting so that would be a last resort. Hopefully there is a solution somewhere on this thread, but hesitating to reread the whole 250+ pages of this thread is not appealing to me at the moment. So I hope someone can point me in the right direction or towards a solution to get over this hump of my build I would like to do. It seems like it’s there is an easy fix to it somewhere, and I am sure it’s right in front of my face, but maybe I am just too stupid to see it.

As a side note, it seriously drives me crazy when I can’t figure something like this out….. I remember using dos prompts as an OS on CRT screens……that’s how really old I am………..UUGGGG
 
"looks to be nothing more than a dos prompt program" Ohhh it's so much more than that!

Ubuntu is based on Debian, instructions for ubuntu users may help you. You could just try installing ubuntu and brewpi on that. Does the computer run windows successfully? You could install virtual box in windows, then install debian in virtual box and go from there.

I assume you'v tried this: https://wiki.debian.org/bcm43xx

Beyond that I can't really help.
 
Someone here said that Debian is easier to configure than Ubuntu. So I wanted try that route first. Ubuntu might be a last resort though. I formatted the whole computer and there is no more windows left on in. I use it as a spare anyway, and have been wanting to get away from windows for some time.

Yea I tried that link a few days ago, actually I followed those instructions several times before referencing other sources. I might try to do it again another time if my patience comes back to me.

Thanks for chiming in though
 
Someone here said that Debian is easier to configure than Ubuntu. So I wanted try that route first.

Hmm, I would wager that Ubuntu is easier to install on your computer. Though brewpi may be easier to install on Debian.

Maybe sell the spare computer and pick up a rpi? ;)

Good luck.
 
<drumroll>

It works!

I have BrewPi talking to an Uno R3 over a Bluetooth link!

And if you start with the correct freakin' BT/serial module :mad: it takes all of about half an hour to set up from a standing start.

It's running on my development system with a second BrewPi instance running inside the box on another Uno.
I'll leave it running for the next 24 hours to establish a functional baseline, then stretch out the distance and see what happens.
But so far it's acting just like any Uno hooked up via USB...

Cheers! :ban:

brewpi_over_bluetooth_02.jpg
 
reading about how to install the missing drivers all to no avail. Just can’t figure it out

I did a step by step but it's specific to the Dell Inspiron I had with Intel wireless drivers. AAAAAAANNNNNNNND, having said all that, I was *NEVER* able to have confidence in the wireless and spent 20-25 bucks on the network over power line pair of adapters and never looked back. The wireless finally came in, worked, would update, I'd set it, walk away, come back 6 hrs or 1 day later and it would have stopped and the only recourse was to reboot. Once, fine. Twice, move to another method--no third chance here, too little time to futz with all that.

My suggestion is to try ethernet over powerline, such as with these
 
Hey Johns I'm currently building a BrewPi using an old laptop and had the same problem. Took me a few days to get worked out. Can you connect that laptop to a hard line? If so you should be able to get up and running using the terminal and the page below. You can do it!!!! I'm totally clueless about linux and arduino and I've almost got this thing up and running.

http://lkubuntu.wordpress.com/2011/09/08/how-to-fix-broadcom-43xx/
 
<drumroll>

It works!

I have BrewPi talking to an Uno R3 over a Bluetooth link!

And if you start with the correct freakin' BT/serial module :mad: it takes all of about half an hour to set up starting from a dead start.

It's running on my development system with a second BrewPi instance running inside the box on another Uno.
I'll leave it running for the next 24 hours to establish a functional baseline, then stretch out the distance and see what happens.
But so far it's acting just like any Uno hooked up via USB...

Cheers! :ban:

Inquiring minds want the documentation... :)

AWESOME! :ban:
 
If you wanna run wheezy without all the hassle, just run it under vm on your desktop for trial purposes.
 
Inquiring minds want the documentation... :)

AWESOME! :ban:

I'll definitely write it up once I have confidence in it, which if all goes well should be sometime Sunday evening.

So far so good - it's been running a few hours without a single burp in the log...

Cheers!
 
I'm on a roll here! I have two BrewPi instances running over Bluetooth!

Piece o' cake - again, with the right BT/serial module.

The first instance ran the BrewPi script all night without a single burp, so I just moved the RPi BT/USB dongle out to the end of a 6' USB extender cable into one corner of my office behind a wall of HD monitors, moved the Uno with its BT/serial module over to the opposite corner, and stuck its BT/serial module inside a plastic hobby box as a representative packaging material. Separation is roughly 16 feet.

That's been running for a couple of hours without a hitch while I played around with getting the second instance running. Then I tried some "power fail" testing on the second BrewPi instance, and found that it will automagically reconnect with the RPi and the BrewPi script once it's powered up again. Awesome!

Haven't tried power-failing the RPi yet but I'll get to that. I also want to see if two instances running over Bluetooth will recover from a global power-fail/restore without issues, as two Uno/BT "satellite" setups plus the internal Uno instance looks like where I'm heading. That would tie all of the appliances in my brewery together.

I have most of the BrewPi-Over-Bluetooth setup written up, just need to make up a couple of graphics for clarity...

Cheers! :mug:
 
hello. Just chirping in to say that after an excruiciating wait for my parts to arrive from china via the netherlands ive got my brewpi up and running on an old toshiba tecra tablet screen monster whiring away pumping volts into a splayed out array of wires and chips, and i must say ive never been so excited about seeing 1/10 of a degree in change happen before my eyes as i have with this project. Then i went inside and watched it happed from the couch on my phone and i was ecstatic. "hey check it, im gonna turn turn it down now" i would say to work mates as i bugged them to join me in watching the farenheit fall. Great project i need more probes, bigger relays and more scripts. definately working on one with the motion detector to spritz the dog with recycled brew cooling water when he pisses on my grass. teach him do destroy my new sod. sod him!
 
First thing is to plug the fridge straight into an outlet and see what happens. If it solidly comes back to life we can work on figuring out why your BrewPi system is losing control...

Cheers!

I haven't had much time to deal with this so the timing is going to sound strange. Weirdly, I updated the temp to go from 40 to 38, and after 18 hours, the cooler finally kicked on and ran properly for 12h and then stopped, according to the chart. To confirm it was working, I plugged it into a direct outlet and the fridge powered right on, and I rebooted the Pi and Arduino and it has been good since then.
 
[...]To confirm it was working, I plugged it into a direct outlet and the fridge powered right on, and I rebooted the Pi and Arduino and it has been good since then.

Well that has to be a relief :)

Still, it's a mystery why your BrewPi took a bit of a dump back there...

Cheers!
 
I'm willing to bet his fridge is still using its internal thermostat. It probably stays off for 18 hours because brewpi couldn't get the reaction it wanted from the fridge and without brewpi turning the plug on the internal thermostat never finished its initial wait period to start up. We don't have these problems because we like to rip all the guts out and start fresh.
 
How big of an project box would I need to fit this project?
 
Can anyone shed any light on my problem please?

I have a small wooden cigar box that i was hoping to house my brewpi in.

it's about 6"d x 4.5"w x 3.5"h (145mm x 115mm x 90mm) electrical sockets run down to a different box about 1.5meters away.

I have an LCD at the front of the box as per the guide on here, power being shared over a breadboard. If the temp probes and LCD are hooked to the arduino all is good display is correct etc, add in an SSR in the same box, if i activate the SSR switch (inverted to non inverted) it clicks on and the LCD dims a little bit (i've assumed this is power) everything is hooked up to the same 5v connection.

The problem occurs when i hook up a test appliance, the SSR will switch fine and turn off fine, but as soon as it turns off the LCD goes crazy and starts displaying random flashing symbol.

Is it just to close?

Realise the wiring is messy i've not stuck it down yet

IMG_8751.JPG
 
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Ok. First of all. Do not put an ssr in a wooden box. Fire hazard for days. Secondly. I assume you aren't powering the arduino by itself and using just the power from the pi. And without seeing any specs on a power supply, I'm going to assume this is the problem.
 
Ok. First of all. Do not put an ssr in a wooden box. Fire hazard for days. Secondly. I assume you aren't powering the arduino by itself and using just the power from the pi. And without seeing any specs on a power supply, I'm going to assume this is the problem.

OK for info - LCD and SSR (Sainsmart 2 relay module) are plugged into 5v (shared on a breadboard)

Temp probe into 3.3v

I now have power coming from Pi and also a separate power source, and have removed the SSR from the box.

still having the same problems though, but it's always on power off and not on, the moment the power switches off the display output random symbols
 
could it have anything to do with the fact that i was manually switching between inverted and non inverted to check if the SSR was drawing power?

Strike that makes no difference.
 
In a recent discussion on another project I'm working on I was told that I needed to be careful with protecting my relays with inductive loads. Is anyone using a MOV or any kind of protection circuitry on their fridge relay?
 
In a recent discussion on another project I'm working on I was told that I needed to be careful with protecting my relays with inductive loads. Is anyone using a MOV or any kind of protection circuitry on their fridge relay?

No, but I cant imagine that it would hurt anything and it might make the contacts last longer.
 
Ssr does not stand for sainsmart relay

Huh? I'm refering to either solid state or mechanical. Does anyone take additional precations to protect against voltage spikes caused by the inductive load of the fridge?

(Edit) sorry wbarber69, disregard. saw that you wern't talking to me.
 
Ssr does not stand for sainsmart relay

Nope don't think incorrect reference to the Sainsmart relay as SSR would cause a glitch in the LCD.

You might be right about power though as I could replicate the problem turning the potentiometer all the way down and then all the way up again.reckon swap all the jumper cables
 
Looks like my SD card may have fried or something. I noticed the BrewPi wasn't displaying data anymore and the ACT green LED was on but not blinking. I tried rebooting the Pi but no activity (just LEDs on). I brought my SD card to work to see if I needed to format it and start from scratch, but the card isn't even recognized when I plug it in.

I guess I just need to replace the SD card and start over. Any suggestions for MicroSD cards? I was using a 8GB Kingston. Maybe it was just a bad apple.
 
sounds like you were just unlucky, I have kingston that's been going fine in a pi for ages be used for web streaming etc.

I've found large 64g ones from eBay don't play well with the Pi and also some 32g unbranded ones both kinds have worked well on my Mac just no on the Pi.
 
One thing I have done is after I got my brewpi running, I imaged the card for a backup. I can stick a new card into my pc and load the image on it and it'll run.

Back it up! :) It's important stuff.
 
Looks like my SD card may have fried or something. I noticed the BrewPi wasn't displaying data anymore and the ACT green LED was on but not blinking. I tried rebooting the Pi but no activity (just LEDs on). I brought my SD card to work to see if I needed to format it and start from scratch, but the card isn't even recognized when I plug it in.

I guess I just need to replace the SD card and start over. Any suggestions for MicroSD cards? I was using a 8GB Kingston. Maybe it was just a bad apple.

Also take a look over in the brewpi forum someone is considering working on a new install not using Apache, basically you image the card with wheezy and brewpi preinstalled, might be a while though
 
All my RPi's are using 16GB 40MB/sec Sony cards.
$8 via Prime, last time I bought one (May?)

I make an image any time I've accomplished something significant.
A hella lot less pain when I break something (which happens a lot - pathfinders catch the arrows ;))

Cheers!
 
What is the best way to put a plug that can turn lcd off when we do not need see it but keeping RPi and Arduino running? Is there a way?

Thks,

Fabiano
 
I'm willing to bet his fridge is still using its internal thermostat. It probably stays off for 18 hours because brewpi couldn't get the reaction it wanted from the fridge and without brewpi turning the plug on the internal thermostat never finished its initial wait period to start up. We don't have these problems because we like to rip all the guts out and start fresh.



so - I finally had some time to post a chart. I didn't have anything fermenting, so it wasn't too big of a deal. I had it set to fridge constant at 40 when the cart begins, and around Dec 1 it stopped cooling (despite trying to cool) and went to room temp. Around Dec 5, I rebooted everything and it worked for a bit.

At annotation E, I set it to 33 degrees and cooling kicked back in about 6h later, and somewhere around G I rebooted, tested plugging the fridge into an unswitched outlet, and then back into a switched outlet. Since then, it has been largely holding temp, but some weird variation.

Any thoughts?

Cheers,

Jason
 




so - I finally had some time to post a chart. I didn't have anything fermenting, so it wasn't too big of a deal. I had it set to fridge constant at 40 when the cart begins, and around Dec 1 it stopped cooling (despite trying to cool) and went to room temp. Around Dec 5, I rebooted everything and it worked for a bit.



At annotation E, I set it to 33 degrees and cooling kicked back in about 6h later, and somewhere around G I rebooted, tested plugging the fridge into an unswitched outlet, and then back into a switched outlet. Since then, it has been largely holding temp, but some weird variation.



Any thoughts?



Cheers,



Jason


Some fridges have their own internal timers and such that require the fridge to shut down after a said time no matter what. The thing is those timers don't work unless power is being supplied to the fridge, which doesn't happen if you control your fridge from the outlet using a temp controller and it isn't currently in cooling mode. Brewpi had a wait period for initial startup and so do many refrigerators, meaning that brewpi will wait 10 minutes, the turn power on to the fridge which could take up to 15 minutes to start depending in the brand and model. The only way to fix these issues is to replace the internal thermostats with the brewpi relays or to fuse the compressor and fans in the on state.
 
Some fridges have their own internal timers and such that require the fridge to shut down after a said time no matter what. The thing is those timers don't work unless power is being supplied to the fridge, which doesn't happen if you control your fridge from the outlet using a temp controller and it isn't currently in cooling mode. Brewpi had a wait period for initial startup and so do many refrigerators, meaning that brewpi will wait 10 minutes, the turn power on to the fridge which could take up to 15 minutes to start depending in the brand and model. The only way to fix these issues is to replace the internal thermostats with the brewpi relays or to fuse the compressor and fans in the on state.

Thanks. The odd thing, that I didn't mention, is the 15 days prior it ran like clockwork staying between 40 and 45 degrees. I should have posted more of the graphic. I may still want to undertake doing something with the relays and thermostats, but it had been working so well.
 
There's a chance that once the fridge got down to 45 it just stayed there.
 
Can anyone help me out with this one..?

I'm only getting one of my sensors working but the BrewPi shows two OneWire Addresses but they have the same value:

brewpi1.png

If I make a change to either of these devices they both receive those changes.

brewpi2.png
 
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