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HOWTO - Make a BrewPi Fermentation Controller For Cheap

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Here are some screen shots of my brewpi controlling my last brew. It stayed really tight though out the active fermentation. It didn't start swinging more "wildly" until after i had bumped up the temp a few time. One has the garage temp the other doesn't. With the lasko heater, I wonder how important the placement of fridge temp probe is. I have a shelf holding up my fermenter about 25 inches with the heater below it. The probe for the fridge temp hangs under the shelf. I imagine if i had it further from the heater i would get larger swings, though thats just conjecture. Next is to cold crash it and see if I run into the issues that have been brought up earlier in the thread.

Screen Shot 2014-11-17 at 8.11.11 PM.png


Screen Shot 2014-11-17 at 8.12.06 PM.png
 
Does anyone have rpi wifi stability issues? I'm using rpi B, arduion uno, and this wifi usb dongle. Also, using a att uverse router, don't know the make/model at the moment.

The rpi (or my router) will drop the wifi connection after a few days, and I have to turn the rpi off and on again to get back up and running. All the indicator lights are still blinking on the pi, and an indicator led within the wifi dongle indicates that it's furiously trying to talk to something. I know it's not connected to my wifi because it's not listed in my router's active devices when this happens. The pi's operating system is running, when I do reset I can see that all my temp data was still being logged.

Also, probably not related, I had to recently switch to a static IP address because dhcp was giving me a lot of trouble. But this dropping issue was happening then too.

I've had RPi WiFi stability issues as well, though not on my BrewPi. I have a OpenSprinkler Pi controlling sprinklers in the back yard, and I lose WiFi connections to this every week or so. My BrewPi is hardwired using Cat5e connected to my LAN, so it's never an issue. In any event, there are a few posts in this long thread that cover WiFi reconnection. Basically, you can have the RPi check the WiFi connection, and if it is lost, it can re-establish the WiFi connection. It will require some work in Raspbian Wheezy (the Linux OS that runs on the RPi), and you need to configure your WiFi connection by editing some of the configuration files. You can also use a Bash script to do this for you. In any event, you can either follow through the thread here to find these, or Google RPi WiFi reconnect to find other posts about how to do this.
 
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Here are some screen shots of my brewpi controlling my last brew. It stayed really tight though out the active fermentation. It didn't start swinging more "wildly" until after i had bumped up the temp a few time. One has the garage temp the other doesn't. With the lasko heater, I wonder how important the placement of fridge temp probe is. I have a shelf holding up my fermenter about 25 inches with the heater below it. The probe for the fridge temp hangs under the shelf. I imagine if i had it further from the heater i would get larger swings, though thats just conjecture. Next is to cold crash it and see if I run into the issues that have been brought up earlier in the thread.

Are you using a thermowell?
 
You'd think BrewPi would account for the sudden rise in temperature and cut back the "on" time for the heater.
Instead, it looks like BrewPi is losing its mind a bit.

It would have been interesting to have noted the algorithm settings before those swings (a bit hyperbolic - the temp deltas are still pretty small) started showing up to see what changed.

Not that it has anything to do with the above, but if you don't have a small fan keeping the air stirred up 24/7, consider adding one...

Cheers!
 
Here's a drawing of the circuit that I built on a Radio Shack Prototype Shield (plugs right on top of an Uno). It's based on the BrewPi Rev C shield schematic and uses a 20x4 LCD, a 74HC595 Shift Register and a couple of 10K pull-up resistors.



Here's an corrected layout that connects the LCD to ground (properly). The original shield also includes a couple of capacitors that I did not need (blue cap is 100nF and yellow one is 10uF - if using a polarized cap watch your orientation). If your power source is marginal adding these two caps may help. Also the contrast pot (in my case) had a very narrow range of use.

Me again, and out of my depth once more, (my brewing OK by the way) it's the improving my kit that i'm struggling on.

Link to post i'm referring too LCD Installing LCD on Brew Pi
As Homer Simpson would say Doh! :drunk:

Which of the above diagrams is the working model i note that their is one revised version that shows to LEDs , but i can't see these on the actual picture of the working unit. I have frizting and have tried to replicate but it keeps saying I am 1 connection still to be routed. a link to the fritzing diagram would actually be great that way i know exactly which one i was working with.

thanks again for your help
 
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Me again, and out of my depth once more, (my brewing OK by the way) it's the improving my kit that i'm struggling on.

Link to post i'm referring too LCD Installing LCD on Brew Pi
As Homer Simpson would say Doh! :drunk:

Which of the above diagrams is the working model i note that their is one revised version that shows to LEDs , but i can't see these on the actual picture of the working unit. I have frizting and have tried to replicate but it keeps saying I am 1 connection still to be routed. a link to the fritzing diagram would actually be great that way i know exactly which one i was working with.

thanks again for your help

It looks like the second diagram in that post is the correct one. That diagram matches the documentation for the PinOut that shows D13, D11, and D10 being used for the LCD. It also has the pull-up resistors. I am not sure which version you are talking about that has LEDs. Neither of those diagrams shows LEDs.
 
Sorry meant capacitors - blue cap is 100nF and yellow one is 10uF
 
Sorry meant capacitors - blue cap is 100nF and yellow one is 10uF

It sounds like those capacitors were already on the proto shield that he used. I imagine just to try to clean up any power ripples since the shield could be used for any number of projects. He actually mentions in the write up that he did not need them.

Unless your power supply is crummy I don't think you need them. I had an LCD running on a different Arduino project for a year without caps. I am of the opinion that you will be fine without them.
 
You'd think BrewPi would account for the sudden rise in temperature and cut back the "on" time for the heater.
Instead, it looks like BrewPi is losing its mind a bit.

It would have been interesting to have noted the algorithm settings before those swings (a bit hyperbolic - the temp deltas are still pretty small) started showing up to see what changed.

Not that it has anything to do with the above, but if you don't have a small fan keeping the air stirred up 24/7, consider adding one...

Cheers!

At the moment I don't have an extra fan in there. I wanted to see how it was going to work with just the fans running for the heat and freezer. I do have plans to add a fan though. I'm going to use my old freezer to prototype the setup and then use in the winter with just heat to lager or maybe ferment if I do a double batch. I just need time at home to figure it all out and to do the reverse proxy (?) Thing you and another member mentioned earlier in the thread. I am a bit surprised that its acting this way but really its not a big deal. It got through the active fermentation just fine. Now its just dry hopping until I get home to deal with the airlock prior to cold crashing. I think in the future when its cold out I will unplug the freezes after fermentation is complete.
 
Yes I am. The one recommended in the first post. This is a 11.5 gallon batch.

Hmm, you might need to adjust the control algorithm - P or Proportional setting to get rid of the ringing. Go into advanced settings, write down the original value of Kp, and try adjusting it down.
 
Well it looks like it's starting to tighten up. I did not check any of the settings or mess with them. Not sure if this was just it taking time to relearn the parameters after active fermentation ended or do to the swings in temp. I've been on the road working most of the time, bouncing from job site to job site. So I only get time to look at it when i get back to the hotel. Though I will state again, this doesn't have me freaked out. Even with the momentary swings this thing is working just as well, nay.. better than the STC that i was using previously.

I have upgrades in mind as stated before. Just need to actually get some time at home to play around with it.

Screen Shot 2014-11-18 at 7.52.25 PM.png
 
That's wild. "It's learning" :D

I wonder if the same behavior would have resulted had your manual ramping been plugged into a profile...

Cheers!

[edit - I hope]

Well we're stuck. Management has locked down this forum but hasn't moved active threads in it to whatever sub-forum it's going to end up. Catch-22.

Anyway, I stumbled over these spiffy looking mini-XLR plugs and didn't want to lose the link while we wait for this thread to come back to life.

Cheers!
 
I would be wondering what the ambient temp was around the system and whether that played a role, because it hit and held 20°C for almost an entire day during the 14th, and only then began ringing on its 6hr cycle, for 3 days, then calms down.
 
I can show you that info later. I have a site to get to and then a long drive home so it will be much later, but I have that data.
 
I'm having issues getting my second temp probe to work, see this log:

Nov 19 2014 13:06:45 Installed devices received: [{'a': '28E07D2A0600000C', 'c': 1, 'b': 1, 'd': 0, 'f': 9, 'i': 0, 'h': 2, 'j': 0.0, 'p': 18, 't': 1}, {'a': '289BF0D0B6F97409', 'c': 1, 'b': 0, 'd': 0, 'f': 5, 'i': 1, 'h': 2, 'j': 0.0, 'p': 18, 't': 1}, {'c': 1, 'b': 0, 'd': 0, 'f': 2, 'i': 2, 'h': 1, 'p': 5, 't': 3, 'x': 1}, {'c': 1, 'b': 0, 'd': 0, 'f': 3, 'i': 3, 'h': 1, 'p': 6, 't': 3, 'x': 1}]
Nov 19 2014 13:06:45 Available devices received: [{'a': '289B7B2C060000F9', 'c': 1, 'b': 0, 'd': 0, 'f': 0, 'i': -1, 'h': 2, 'j': 0.0, 'p': 18, 't': 0}, {'c': 1, 'b': 0, 'd': 0, 'f': 0, 'i': -1, 'h': 1, 'p': 2, 't': 0, 'x': 1}, {'c': 1, 'b': 0, 'd': 0, 'f': 0, 'i': -1, 'h': 1, 'p': 19, 't': 0, 'x': 1}, {'c': 1, 'b': 0, 'd': 0, 'f': 0, 'i': -1, 'h': 1, 'p': 4, 't': 0, 'x': 1}]

It sees the installed device but only one is listed as available - any ideas?
 
Have you assigned the device? How about a screen shot of your configured devices? It's being detected, so without more info I can't offer much more help.
 
Well it looks like it's starting to tighten up. I did not check any of the settings or mess with them. Not sure if this was just it taking time to relearn the parameters after active fermentation ended or do to the swings in temp. I've been on the road working most of the time, bouncing from job site to job site. So I only get time to look at it when i get back to the hotel. Though I will state again, this doesn't have me freaked out. Even with the momentary swings this thing is working just as well, nay.. better than the STC that i was using previously.

I have upgrades in mind as stated before. Just need to actually get some time at home to play around with it.

Is it possible that you bumped the thermowell probe as well? Or someone else did?

Ive seen mine do that when i accidentally pull my thermowell probe up a bit..its still in the thermowell but not submerged so not very useful.
 
I already have 120v coming in to my box and running to my relay and wall socket, is there any reason I shouldn't just tap this same 120 line directly into my wall wart that powers my rpi? This is a dedicated power supply so I don't plan on needing it back. I would take my 120 wires and wrap them around the prongs of the wall wart (and through the holes), crimp the wires down, heat shrink to cover any exposed wire, then wrap the whole thing in electical tape. I'd also secure it to my enclosure so it can't move around and work anything loose. Would this be safe or is there a better way to do this?

[Edit] 110 V AC...
 
If you're gonna do that then just go to lowes look down on the end of the aisle where they sell extension cord ends and such and find the 2 prong female plug. Much better idea than wrapping tape all around the wall wart and blocking off any bent holes it may have in it.
 
I'm guessing that was a typo and you ment vent holes? This wart has no vent holes, I dont mean to tape up the case of the wart any way. What I was getting at is that I would go above and beyond to isolate from my mains.

Ahhh, I didn't realize they sold just the plugs at the hardware store, looks like for repairing extension cords. That's a better idea, harbor freight has one for cheap too: http://www.harborfreight.com/125-volt-15-amp-female-plug-connector-93687.html
 
Me again, and out of my depth once more, (my brewing OK by the way) it's the improving my kit that i'm struggling on.

Link to post i'm referring too LCD Installing LCD on Brew Pi
As Homer Simpson would say Doh! :drunk:

Which of the above diagrams is the working model i note that their is one revised version that shows to LEDs , but i can't see these on the actual picture of the working unit. I have frizting and have tried to replicate but it keeps saying I am 1 connection still to be routed. a link to the fritzing diagram would actually be great that way i know exactly which one i was working with.

thanks again for your help

I have also been trying to get this to work but haven't had any luck yet. Right now I am leaning toward an issue that I have seen people talking about recently in this thread. I don't know if the RasberryPi B+ is different than the earlier ones but if you are powering your Arduino of the USB of the Pi B+ some are reporting that they don't get the full 5v and they are using a separate power supply for the Arduino. It is possible that the guy that did the display want using a B+. Now in my case I tried to build it without the capacitors as I didn't have any handy so it could be that as well. I think I will run over to Radio Shack one of these days and pick them up to see if it solves it but I haven't had time to run out there lately. I am running everything of a breadboard for now but when I build it out I am using a screw shield and will be powering the Pi, a couple Arduinos and lcd display(s) off a modified ATX power supply. In my case I am doing this mainly so I only have one power plug for all of these devices. I will be running several computer fans where I need several 12v power sources in addition to what I mentioned above.
 
Mine has been running successfully for quite a few months now, and I love it. I have it running on an old laptop set up right on top of my refrigerator. After thanksgiving I'm going out of town for two weeks and now trying to set up the password protected portion of this project so I can monitor it while I'm gone, but I'm having some difficulty when it comes to the step where you need to write an .htaccess file. I really have no idea what I'm doing. My attempts at it have failed and Google hasn't been much help because all the tutorials I've seen are written for someone who understands Linux, and I honestly still don't.

When I created the file, I changed the settings to what I needed. I thought I saved it, but I can't find the .htaccess where I told it to save, which should be /var/www/ correct? So I tried to create it again. Linux told me that the file already existed, even though I can't find it anywhere. Can someone in the correct direction of what I should be doing?


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Mine has been running successfully for quite a few months now, and I love it. I have it running on an old laptop set up right on top of my refrigerator. After thanksgiving I'm going out of town for two weeks and now trying to set up the password protected portion of this project so I can monitor it while I'm gone,

I didn't even bother and simply used Debian to load the Linux version of VNC (TeamViewer is also free and works well) and then can remote view from any PC, any Android, any i-Thing.
 
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When I created the file, I changed the settings to what I needed. I thought I saved it, but I can't find the .htaccess where I told it to save, which should be /var/www/ correct? So I tried to create it again. Linux told me that the file already existed, even though I can't find it anywhere. Can someone in the correct direction of what I should be doing?

In linux any file name preceeded with a . (period) is a hidden file. if you run the command "ls -a" it will show you all the files including the hidden files. I typically use "ls -al" to show the files in a list that shows more details.

http://unixhelp.ed.ac.uk/CGI/man-cgi?ls
 
Is it possible that you bumped the thermowell probe as well? Or someone else did?

Ive seen mine do that when i accidentally pull my thermowell probe up a bit..its still in the thermowell but not submerged so not very useful.

FTW! the probe moved up the thermowell about a half inch. Though it eventually got things figured out. here is a shot of that time with room temp. I also started cold crashing as usual and so far so good.

Screen Shot 2014-11-21 at 9.55.43 AM.png


Screen Shot 2014-11-21 at 9.56.32 AM.png
 
Just wanted to say thank you to everyone who helped me out over the last few weeks. Everything is done and running smoothly.

I took quite a few pictures of the finished product, so if anyone would like to see them the album is here!
 
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