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How's this for a jacketed fermenter?

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harpo

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Oct 7, 2009
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Location
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Just finished welding the jacket on. Inlet port is lower, and has a pointed flow of around the keg. Outlet is full open.

Now time to hook up glycol in a chest freezer with a pump and solenoid. We'll see how it goes.

10 gallons is just over the top of the jacket. Should be able to maintain temp as well as crash cool overnight for filtering and carbonating.

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I got this idea after looking at some wine tanks. They only had a center section jacketed with glycol. I have heard they can keep the contents at fermentation temps relatively easily, as well as crash cool.

I basically started with two sections of 20GA 304 stainless steel 25.250" long and 7" wide. After putting the holes and dimple features into the pieces, and adding a 5° bend on the 25" sides both top and bottom, we pre-bent them around a 5 gal bucket to start the form. One side has the holes for the 1/2" couplings for goes-inta and goes-outa for glycol. Goes-inta is on the bottom with a directional flow. It basically is a coupling with an end on it, like a cap, but in the end which is inside the jacket it has a .125" slot milled into the side, thus allowing sideways flow of the glycol. The goes-outa is just an open coupler.

Each dimple is .225" high, inside to outside and has a .250" hole in it where the dimple is rosette welded to the wall of the keg. The 5° bends allow for the edge to be fused to the rib of the keg. It was pressure tested at over 25PSI with no deformation or leaks! I plan to run the glycol at about 5PSI to start, and the solenoid valve will be on the goes-outa (output) to avoid any lack of glycol in the jacket. The idea behind the staggered dimples is to induce turbulence and increse contact with all parts of the jacket before the glycol leaves and goes back to the reservoir.

Now I gotta hook it up and see if it works!

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Great Idea! How is the top of that fermenter made? Is that something you made yourself or did you buy it?
 
I got this idea after looking at some wine tanks. They only had a center section jacketed with glycol. I have heard they can keep the contents at fermentation temps relatively easily, as well as crash cool.

Hmm this is interesting to me because I can recall reading an interview with a head brewer for some commercial brewery, I think in Texas, who said the opposite of this. Basically he said that they had 20(?)BBL fermenters but the jackets only went up to something like the 15-17BBL level, and during the summer they had to make smaller batches, since the wort above that level in the fermenter wasn't the correct temperature and they got all kinds of off flavors as a result.
 
I thought the same thing about warm temperatures. Texas is an anomaly, because of the higher temps than where I am.
The fermenting wort will only be just above the jacket, as I indicated earlier. As fermentation goes on, the jacket will cool the upper ~5 gallons, which in turn will coll the lower wort by reverse convection.
Experimentation will show...
 
Are you worried about the coolant short circuiting with the connectors so close together? Any reason you didn't put them on opposite sides of the fermenter other than single sided access? How did you roll the pieces, slip roll or by hand? Great work and can't wait to see how it works
 
WPStrassburg said:
Are you worried about the coolant short circuiting with the connectors so close together? Any reason you didn't put them on opposite sides of the fermenter other than single sided access? How did you roll the pieces, slip roll or by hand? Great work and can't wait to see how it works

Just following the original's configuration. Granted, I don't know exactly what else might be beneath its dimpled jacket, I am going to try this. I may also jacket my MLT and run hot water from the HLT during the mash.
Will it work? I'm just bored enough to find out.
 
Beautiful work, and a great idea.

I need to learn to weld..... And get some decent machining tools... and sheet metal tools.....

hmmm Christmas is coming....
 
Just following the original's configuration. Granted, I don't know exactly what else might be beneath its dimpled jacket, I am going to try this. I may also jacket my MLT and run hot water from the HLT during the mash.
Will it work? I'm just bored enough to find out.

I'd be really surprised if you got any chilled glycol anywhere but right between the two ports. Since that will be the path of least resistance. I hope I'm wrong.

It looks awesome though and I'd love to have something like it to try. Would you consider selling those dimpled curved edge SS plates? I'd want them a bit longer to bend an end in for that separation plate with the inlet and outlet port on opposite sides. I'd need to find a local TIG dude though, I'm not thinking my MIG skills are up to that level.

I definitely would like to know how this works out for you in any event. It's a great attempt at an innovation in fermentors.
 
Looks like a great build. I personally wouldn't worry about the temperature gradient seen in a 20 barrel system. That's a whole different monster compared to 10 to 15 gallons. Kind of like comparing an icecube in a cup of coffee versus an entire pot.
 
So I searched for tanks similar to these and realized that the jacket is not all 360° around the tank. It is separated, having the inlet on one side at the bottom and the outlet on the top of the other side.

I am currently putting at divider plate between the inlet and outlet on the prototype. It won't be a complete seal, but close enough to make the outlet port the path of least resistance. The next one will have the split between the inlet and outlet and we will have the divider welded completely.

Thanks for the questioning of the separator!
 
Awesome project. I've been working on something similar with copper coil around it. I like the jacket idea a lot better. Any update on this?
 
This is awesome, how did I miss it??!!! I ferment in Sanke Kegs and would love to do something like this. Keep a tub of glycol in a chest freezer with a pump to kick on/off based on the temps needed. I'm very interested in how this worked out for you.
 
If it works well, I would also be interested in buying a "kit" for this jacket system to have welded onto my keg by a local guy.
 
Do you need to back-purge the inside of the keg at all?

I can't see why, you're not welding on the inside of the keg. Maybe on the outside of the keg if you're really looking to keep it clean but I don't think it would be necessary. Your coolant/glycol isn't ever going to come in to contact with the stuff inside of your keg.
 
I wonder if something like this could be made with some gaskets (silicone?) integrated so you could just maybe ratchet strap it on to a keg, making for a "weldless" installation. It wouldn't even need to be made of Stainless. Some sort of pre-formed hard plastic with the gaskets glued on.
 
I wonder if something like this could be made with some gaskets (silicone?) integrated so you could just maybe ratchet strap it on to a keg, making for a "weldless" installation. It wouldn't even need to be made of Stainless. Some sort of pre-formed hard plastic with the gaskets glued on.

Good idea. Get to work on it and post some pics.:D
 
Good idea. Get to work on it and post some pics.:D

Right! I'll put it in line right behind my Electric Build, Randall Build, Arcade Machine Build, Project Car, Finishing the Kegerator & Finishing the House. :mug:

We should have something for you come 2024:D
 
I can't see why, you're not welding on the inside of the keg. Maybe on the outside of the keg if you're really looking to keep it clean but I don't think it would be necessary. Your coolant/glycol isn't ever going to come in to contact with the stuff inside of your keg.

If the stainless gets hot enough it'll start to oxidize on the inside if there's no protective atmosphere. It's not an issue of the coolant touching the oxidized steel but rather your precious wort/beer inside. But I suppose a skilled weldor might be able to prevent this... Just curious what the OP did.
 
If the stainless gets hot enough it'll start to oxidize on the inside if there's no protective atmosphere. It's not an issue of the coolant touching the oxidized steel but rather your precious wort/beer inside. But I suppose a skilled weldor might be able to prevent this... Just curious what the OP did.

Disclaimer: I'm not a Weldor, just trying to think through the process. I could quite possibly be talking out of my rear end. I just couldn't see any reason for purging the inside of the keg.
 
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