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How to really screw up your brew day

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That persistent adage is definitely very high on my pet peeve list. On one hand, as a proprietor of a homebrew shop for 10 years, I get the purpose. These types of sayings are meant to not overwhelm newcomers to the hobby. We want to make people believe that homebrewing is extremely forgiving. I mean, if you stretch your idea of what good beer is, it can be as true as you want it to be. If you want your beer to be world class, where it could go toe to toe with the mammoths in the commercial space in a blind comparison, it's a little more complicated than that. However snobby that may read, I believe that beer should be whatever the brewer wants it to be and I don't intend any shade towards those who take a more relaxed approach.
I would agree whole heartily with this. And one day, due to obtaining a PH Meter, I might dive into the world of water chemistry. For now, fermenting temps and consistent brew processes are what I am dealing with. But, as I said, I agree that water chemistry and all other parts make the whole a better product. No way I could go toe to toe with the big guys, or even most of you folks here. You are heads and shoulder above me, but I am learning each time and that is what makes it fun. Good post and great point. Rock On!!!!!!!!!!
 
I understand being "thrifty"... that's a nicer way to say it. An RO system is about $100 all in.
Thanks... really good info! I hadn't realized they were so cheap. Roughly how much are the filters? And how often do they require replacement?

I've been meaning to improve my water and starting with RO would make that so much easier.
 
fwiw, with RO systems, "time is money", and brew day needs matter. A $100 RO system will likely be rated for 50 gallons per day or less. Add another $75-100 to get to a 100 gpd solution to fill your brew day needs twice as fast...

Cheers!
 
fwiw, with RO systems, "time is money", and brew day needs matter. A $100 RO system will likely be rated for 50 gallons per day or less. Add another $75-100 to get to a 100 gpd solution to fill your brew day needs twice as fast...

Cheers!

RO systems are just not "on demand" at these price points but they don't have to be. My 200GPD RO unit is running on a 125psi booster pump and I can make about 8 gallons per hour, but it really doesn't matter either. The output goes to a float valve clamped to my kettle and stops filling at the volume I select. If it took 10 hours to make the amount I needed, I'd just set it up the night before. For those who can't route a 1/4" OD PE line from the RO to their kettle, or people who have to drag their gear out to the driveway, you can set up the same float system in a bucket or two.
 
Last brew I did not change the scale from ounces back to grams to measure my hops.
Didn't it look like an overly huge pile of hops, 28 times larger than usual? :bigmug:

How about milling 2 batches, and then not knowing which bucket contains which recipe?
I can do "better" actually:
Having milled 2 batches and didn't get to brew the second one. A month later I'm now puzzled which recipe it actually contains. :tank:
 
It is scary how one has to idiot proof yourself - as we age.

I did not notice until the 2nd addition was due. But the amount I added was not overly large as I use a little round plastic butter dish container which would not hold even close to a pound of hops. So who knows what number I was looking at and deciding when to stop at! Tried the beer upon transfer last night and has a lot of hop flavor. Surprised the bitterness was not life ending. I will see after it ages a while.
 
I inadvertently undid the tri clamp ball valve instead of the tri clamp just below it. I dumped 4 gallons of my beer before I was able to get the ball valve back together again!

Something similar to this happened to me a few weeks ago. I lost 2 gallons of beer.

I almost did that very same thing, but on a 30 barrel fermenter at a brewery I was interning at. Caught myself just in time.

A few years ago, at one of our local breweries, someone actually did that. There was no stopping it, whatever they tried. The whole fermenter emptied, 50+ (?) barrels down the floor drain.

The biggest problem was the void in distribution of their flagship beer...
 
Thanks... really good info! I hadn't realized they were so cheap. Roughly how much are the filters? And how often do they require replacement?

I've been meaning to improve my water and starting with RO would make that so much easier.
Two carbon filter cartridges from Walmart $10 and one sediment for about $4. If you only use the water for brewing, you can do it annually. The RO membrane can also last about 5 years with relatively low use.
 
I mean, if you stretch your idea of what good beer is, it can be as true as you want it to be. If you want your beer to be world class, where it could go toe to toe with the mammoths in the commercial space in a blind comparison, it's a little more complicated than that.
Surely there's got to be something in between. My friends and family all like my beers. One or two of them have even said that one or two of my beers were as good as any they've had at one of the better local craft breweries (note - I didn't agree). I have no desire to ever enter a competition, much less to go toe to toe with any mammoths. But I'm always trying to make things a little bit better whenever and however I think I can, within reason. And I do own a pH meter.
 
Two carbon filter cartridges from Walmart $10 and one sediment for about $4.
So hypothetically, if one already had a whole house water filtration system with a sediment filter and two carbon filters, you could run your tap water straight to an RO membrane?
 
I suppose in theory one could go "quasi commando", but the down-side of failure would be a clogged membrane that cannot be salvaged. Even a single rudimentary pleated or wound cartridge filter would protect the membrane as cheap insurance...

Cheers!
 
So hypothetically, if one already had a whole house water filtration system with a sediment filter and two carbon filters, you could run your tap water straight to an RO membrane?
Yes, and the sediment and carbon stages are generally purposed with preserving the longevity of the membrane. The $100 complete kit price I'm talking about probably can't be beat with ala carte parts though and it even includes extra filters. In addition to a membrane, you need an auto-shut off valve and pressure regulator and those all come with the kits.
 
Surely there's got to be something in between. My friends and family all like my beers. One or two of them have even said that one or two of my beers were as good as any they've had at one of the better local craft breweries (note - I didn't agree). I have no desire to ever enter a competition, much less to go toe to toe with any mammoths. But I'm always trying to make things a little bit better whenever and however I think I can, within reason. And I do own a pH meter.
Of course. I think with the entire quote taken in context, it's clear that I'm suggesting beer quality is on a very wide continuum and the most important part is if the brewer is getting what they want out of it. If I ever push back against complacency (I often do), it's because I've improved my beer many times over the past couple decades, often after declaring that my beer was finally "great" or "good enough" and now I just know better to never say either again with such confidence.
 
My wife got by accident her makeup in the pot of wort right before pouring it into the fermenter. Anyway, he decanted and added yeast, but the beer went bad and ended up in the drain. My wife was left without make-up, and I was left without a batch of beer.
 
The $100 complete kit price I'm talking about probably can't be beat with ala carte parts though and it even includes extra filters. In addition to a membrane, you need an auto-shut off valve and pressure regulator and those all come with the kits.
OK... I thought you were speaking more hypothetically. Now it sounds this is a specific kit. Do you have a link or something?
 
A few years ago, at one of our local breweries, someone actually did that. There was no stopping it, whatever they tried. The whole fermenter emptied, 50+ (?) barrels down the floor drain.

The biggest problem was the void in distribution of their flagship beer...
I came close to making this mistake once.

I use this solution on "below waterline" fittings:
https://www.brewershardware.com/tri-clover-compatible-clamp-nut-safety-dipped
"If it has a red clamp nut, think carefully before loosening it" is my motto.

(edited for clarity)
 
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So hypothetically, if one already had a whole house water filtration system with a sediment filter and two carbon filters, you could run your tap water straight to an RO membrane?
Maybe....

Check to make sure that the sediment filter is 5 micron or tighter (this is very tight for a whole house application), and your sediment filter and carbon filters are a good match for the flow (gallons per minute) you're pushing through them.

For example, I see over and over home brewers pushing 5 gpm+ through a carbon filter intended for less than 1 gpm.

Dechlorination in a whole house application (which I'm typically not a fan of) is usually most economical to do with a backwashing carbon tank, rather than carbon cartridges.
carbon tanks.png
 
Check to make sure that the sediment filter is 5 micron or tighter (this is very tight for a whole house application), and your sediment filter and carbon filters are a good match for the flow (gallons per minute) you're pushing through them.
Thanks. The whole house system I'm looking at is rated for 12 gpm, but the sediment filter included is only 10 micron.
 
10 micron is pretty tight for a whole house filter. Those are typically 20 to 50 micron - unless we're talking about city water or some other water with very limited sediment. You'll want 5 micron or smaller before any RO membrane.
 
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