How to make AMAZING IPA

[Ruckusz28]

Great find! Thanks for sharing.

 

[StopTakingMyUsername]

Anyone have any recommendations for avoid the dry hop bag blocking the tube in a sanke keg?

We've been having a hell of a time transferring the beer due to the bag getting stuck. I usually just weigh it down with a stainless steel fitting, but once we start trying to transfer the beer it goes straight to the tube of the spear, and it's just blocking everything off.

Ultimately, we end up opening the keg and racking manually (which defeats the purpose of a closed transfer)

Thoughts? Suggestions?

(we use sankes, not cornys)

 

[Braufessor]

Anyone have any recommendations for avoid the dry hop bag blocking the tube in a sanke keg?

We've been having a hell of a time transferring the beer due to the bag getting stuck. I usually just weigh it down with a stainless steel fitting, but once we start trying to transfer the beer it goes straight to the tube of the spear, and it's just blocking everything off.

Ultimately, we end up opening the keg and racking manually (which defeats the purpose of a closed transfer)

Thoughts? Suggestions?

(we use sankes, not cornys)

Not sure since you use a sanke..... could you weigh down the hop bag AND also tie it to some dental floss so it can only sink 2/3 of the way down the keg?? Not sure if that is possible with sanke set up. Also, have heard of people using a piece of stainless steel brillo type pad (boil it or star san to sanitize) around the end of dip tubes. Or, some sort of stainless mesh sleeve around dip tube....Again..... not sure if that is feasible with your set up.

 

[losMythos]

Anyone have any recommendations for avoid the dry hop bag blocking the tube in a sanke keg?

We've been having a hell of a time transferring the beer due to the bag getting stuck. I usually just weigh it down with a stainless steel fitting, but once we start trying to transfer the beer it goes straight to the tube of the spear, and it's just blocking everything off.

Ultimately, we end up opening the keg and racking manually (which defeats the purpose of a closed transfer)

Thoughts? Suggestions?

(we use sankes, not cornys)

How do you get a bag of Hops in a sanke Keg? Just curious. Do they make sanke kegs with a removable lid? Or do you take the whole dip tube assembly apart?

 

[mbbransc]

^ I was curious of that too. I try to remember tying my hop sack off in the keg (corney) but I've forgotten occasionally. Only once that I recall it became an issue. I didn't have it weighed down though so maybe it usually sits on the surface.

 

[losMythos]

^ I was curious of that too. I try to remember tying my hop sack off in the keg (corney) but I've forgotten occasionally. Only once that I recall it became an issue. I didn't have it weighed down though so maybe it usually sits on the surface.

Yeah I put a small pipe clamp on the PRV post and just hang a hop bag from it using the pull string on the bag. cinched up it hangs about 3/4 of the way down the keg. I have never used pellets in the keg. 2oz of leaf swell up and never become an issue at the dip tube..i could see pellets becoming an issue even in a bag.

 

[StopTakingMyUsername]

Not sure since you use a sanke..... could you weigh down the hop bag AND also tie it to some dental floss so it can only sink 2/3 of the way down the keg?? Not sure if that is possible with sanke set up. Also, have heard of people using a piece of stainless steel brillo type pad (boil it or star san to sanitize) around the end of dip tubes. Or, some sort of stainless mesh sleeve around dip tube....Again..... not sure if that is feasible with your set up.

That's what I'm starting to think. Maybe I could use dental floss and tie it to the rubber O-Ring on the spear? That way it'd hang down in the beer, but not low enough to get stuck on the tube.
It'd be really interesting to see how that'd fit in there though

I don't know if a screen on the bottom of the tube would matter here - it might work. But I think it's more of an issue of the bag itself getting sucked against the bottom of the keg and blocking any liquid from getting up the tube.
I'm gunna experiment with it today and try to figure it out.

How do you get a bag of Hops in a sanke Keg? Just curious. Do they make sanke kegs with a removable lid? Or do you take the whole dip tube assembly apart?

Same way as a corny, honestly...
I put the hops in a muslin bag with a SS fitting to weigh it down, kinda squeeze them around into more of a length-wise shape (instead of just a blob circle). Feed that in to the opening of the keg (spear removed).
Put the spear back in, seal, coupler on, CO2 purge, then transfer beer over.

 

[losMythos]

Same way as a corny, honestly...
I put the hops in a muslin bag with a SS fitting to weigh it down, kinda squeeze them around into more of a length-wise shape (instead of just a blob circle). Feed that in to the opening of the keg (spear removed).
Put the spear back in, seal, coupler on, CO2 purge, then transfer beer over.

Interesting.. Not sure if you use leaf or pellet but I've had good luck with leaf although I've had trouble getting the hops I want in leaf....maybe a fine mesh SS cylinder with cap that is slightly smaller than the opening that can be placed in and put to the side of the spear...Just a thought. Good Luck!

 

[StopTakingMyUsername]

Two more questions I was curious about:

1) what were everyone's experiences using different hops for 60 min bittering?
(Not ctz/Columbus, but ones like chinook, ahtanum, fuggles?)

2) experiences scaling a recipe up to 15 gal + ?
How to calculate amount of hops in beersmith (or other software)?

 

[mbbransc]

Personally, I hate chinook as a bittering charge. It's uber harsh to my palate. I generally stick to a clean hop (warrior, specifically), although my IPA I kegged on Sunday I used Columbus.

 

[m00ps]

Two more questions I was curious about:

1) what were everyone's experiences using different hops for 60 min bittering?
(Not ctz/Columbus, but ones like chinook, ahtanum, fuggles?)

2) experiences scaling a recipe up to 15 gal + ?
How to calculate amount of hops in beersmith (or other software)?

basically, there are two main things to consider IMO when looking at bittering hops. The first thing is the alpha acid level. A good bittering hop will usualy have 10% or more. Like, there wouldnt be much point in using +5oz of saaz where 1oz of columbus could get you the IBUs you need. The second thing to consider is the oil makeup of the hop. Chinook is notorious for having a v ery "harsh" bitterness due to its high % of cohumelone. Comparatively, magnum and apollo are pretty low and give a "smoother" bitterness. So 50IBUs of chinook will taste a bit more aggressive than 50IBUs of apollo or magnum. Thats the theory at least

Ahtanum and fuggles are pointless to bitter with IMO, since their bittering potential is so low. You absolutely wont be able to taste any actual flavor from the bittering hops, so I wouldnt use anything like citra or el dorado for bittering, even though they have decent bittering potential

 

[tsl346]

Two more questions I was curious about:

1) what were everyone's experiences using different hops for 60 min bittering?
(Not ctz/Columbus, but ones like chinook, ahtanum, fuggles?)

2) experiences scaling a recipe up to 15 gal + ?
How to calculate amount of hops in beersmith (or other software)?

I have used fuggles several times for bittering in a Stong/Old English Ale and it has worked well. I don't think it would work for an IPA, though. Not high enough aa% and takes awhile to mellow out with the large amount you have to use.

 

[TxBigHops]

Two more questions I was curious about:

1) what were everyone's experiences using different hops for 60 min bittering?
(Not ctz/Columbus, but ones like chinook, ahtanum, fuggles?)

2) experiences scaling a recipe up to 15 gal + ?
How to calculate amount of hops in beersmith (or other software)?

My favorite bittering hop is Magnum. Plenty of AA so you don't need to use a ton of it. Provides a fairly clean bitterness that will work in virtually any style of beer that requires a 60 min addition.

 

[BreezyBrew]

I have used Warrior, Columbus and Cascade all for bittering where the beers turned out great. Much more American tasting than Magnum. I think water profile has the biggest taste effect on bittering charge. YMMV.

 

[StopTakingMyUsername]

Personally, I hate chinook as a bittering charge. It's uber harsh to my palate. I generally stick to a clean hop (warrior, specifically), although my IPA I kegged on Sunday I used Columbus.

Me too. A local brewer uses Chinook as the bittering charge in ALL his IPAs. Really distinct, almost rye-spicy flavor.
I think it does have a place in IPAs though, a lot of really good ones use it. Maybe a light 30 minute addition for just a little bit of bite?

basically, there are two main things to consider IMO when looking at bittering hops. The first thing is the alpha acid level. A good bittering hop will usualy have 10% or more. Like, there wouldnt be much point in using +5oz of saaz where 1oz of columbus could get you the IBUs you need. The second thing to consider is the oil makeup of the hop. Chinook is notorious for having a v ery "harsh" bitterness due to its high % of cohumelone. Comparatively, magnum and apollo are pretty low and give a "smoother" bitterness. So 50IBUs of chinook will taste a bit more aggressive than 50IBUs of apollo or magnum. Thats the theory at least

Ahtanum and fuggles are pointless to bitter with IMO, since their bittering potential is so low. You absolutely wont be able to taste any actual flavor from the bittering hops, so I wouldnt use anything like citra or el dorado for bittering, even though they have decent bittering potential

I agree. I think a lot of people are using the bittering charge hops just to hit a specific IBU number, hence the need for higher AA hops. There certainly wouldn't be a point using MORE 5% AA hops to hit 100 IBU when you could use substantially less 14% AA hops to hit 100 IBU.

Theoretically though, Citra meets the requirements for a double-digit AA level for bittering, yet it (IMO) makes a terrible bittering hop due to the weird astringent flavors it gives off in a 60 min boil.

For our brewing, I couldn't care what the IBU are (I use it as a general gauge for "is this going to be grossly unpalatable with a lingering bitter").
I care mostly about the flavor produced.
I really don't like Columbus/warrior, as it's always lend itself to a really grassy, dirty, earthy, long-lasting bitterness that sticks to the tongue.

The reason I ask about fuggles is because I read that Boneyard Notorious only uses Fuggles, Mosaic, and Citra. I can't imagine they're using the fuggles for whirlpool or dry hop additions (maybe).
I'm pretty sure they are huge fans of FWH techniques as well - so I'd assume that hop bill is a FWH of fuggle, followed by ridiculous amounts of Mosaic and just enough Citra for a juicy punch - all added in late, whirlpool, and dry hop


Thoughts?

I have used fuggles several times for bittering in a Stong/Old English Ale and it has worked well. I don't think it would work for an IPA, though. Not high enough aa% and takes awhile to mellow out with the large amount you have to use.

Well, if you're targeting a specific IBU number, then it won't make sense from a efficiency perspective.
What about for a very light flavor profile?
I'm more interested in targeting flavor than a set number of IBU (Although I may be wrong in doing so)