How to intentionally make a hazy beer?

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cederbusch

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What if I would want to make a beer that supposed to be hazy and stay hazy, what would be best procedure?

I want to make a really hazy (neipa-hazy) lager/ale hybrid using WLP029. Ferment at lager temps.

The givens:
  1. No clarification additives
  2. No cold crash
  3. Low flocculent yeast

But in my experience, this may cause some chill haze, that will clear pretty quick. How would oat affect this beer?

Any other ideas?
 
Wheat.
Anything more than 10-15% should produce a cloudy beer.
You could also try some flaked barley or oats.
FYI, The haze is from gluten protein, wheat is high in gluten.

Wheat IPAs are starting to become a thing, look around for recipes.
 
I just did a NEIPA with Wy1318, I cold crashed for 48 hours, and it is cloudy.

Flaked Wheat.............6%
Flaked Oats.............12%
Flaked Barley............9%

Also check out this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=568046

NEIPA_1.jpg
 
Generally, it's easy to produce hazy beer but, if you want to work at it. Use high protein, high modified malt or wheat or Maypo. Ensure that enzymes denature before saccharification occurs or at least beat them up real good. Starch carry over is an A plus. Pick out a type of malt with the highest PPM Beta Glucan, that stuff helps a lot. Basically, toss in everything that protein gums up the liquid and the ducks will line right up. The stuff may not taste real good but, at least we achieved the goal. The good stuff will drop out during aging but, be assured there will be enough gunk left to rate.

Wheat beer is the exception and it's OK.
 
Thank you for your replies.

The Las Vegas water sounds appealing, but I suspect that the cost/benefit ratio would not be in my favor. :/

In my planned batch I will add
torrified wheat (as that is what I have at home) and
flaked oats (can be bought at local supermarket)

Also try to keep calcium and IBU at low levels.
 
I researched this quite a bit and came up with three recurring recommendations, so I did all three and had fantastic results (flavor and looks).

The three elements:
Flaked wheat (I used 3.5%)
Dry hop while ferm is still active (I added my first dry hop addition when the bubbling dropped to once every 4-5 seconds or so)
Use WYeast 1318 London III yeast

I used 2 row and added some carapils and 6% flaked oats for body, mashed at 152.

I added 4 oz for the first dry hop and 3 oz for the second.

Here's what it looks like:

DingoJuice.jpeg
 
Why do you want it cloudy? You know they the haze from NEIPA originally was a byproduct of other techniques and not the ultimate goal? They felt the techniques produces the flavors they were after and filtering diminished them so they felt that hazy was best. Appearance, in my opinion, should be the least important parameter when brewing a beer and flavor and aroma should trump all.
 
With that said, the mention of dry hopping during fermentation will definitely produce haze (and strong hop aromatics) as will using very large amounts of hops.
 
I agree with ^that^ sentiment. The Alchemist clone recipes I use get their thick haze from lots of whirlpool, mid-fermentation and post-fermentation hop additions - not from adjuncts...

Cheers!
 
Why do you want it cloudy? You know they the haze from NEIPA originally was a byproduct of other techniques and not the ultimate goal? They felt the techniques produces the flavors they were after and filtering diminished them so they felt that hazy was best. Appearance, in my opinion, should be the least important parameter when brewing a beer and flavor and aroma should trump all.

Well, yes. If one were to order appearance, flavor and aroma, flavor comes first. Bad tasting beer that looks beautiful is only good for posting on facebook.

To me, my question took for granted that taste is important, not only haze. If only haze, then the urine solution would be just fine.

So, given that taste comes first, I find appearence quite important. The color of a beer definitely correlate with my degree of pleasure.

I drank this straw-colored, all hazy beer that tasted so darn good, I just had to create one of my own. And I have to say, I really don't like IPA, they all taste the same to me and gets boring after two zips. But I tried one NEIPA and actually liked it. Think it is the sweetness and lack of bitterness. AND, I really like the hazy appearance.

So I don´t want to make an IPA (i.e. use lots of hops), but get some durable haze.

But maybe I just might try dry hopping.
 
Well, yes. If one were to order appearance, flavor and aroma, flavor comes first. Bad tasting beer that looks beautiful is only good for posting on facebook.

To me, my question took for granted that taste is important, not only haze. If only haze, then the urine solution would be just fine.

So, given that taste comes first, I find appearence quite important. The color of a beer definitely correlate with my degree of pleasure.

I drank this straw-colored, all hazy beer that tasted so darn good, I just had to create one of my own. And I have to say, I really don't like IPA, they all taste the same to me and gets boring after two zips. But I tried one NEIPA and actually liked it. Think it is the sweetness and lack of bitterness. AND, I really like the hazy appearance.

So I don´t want to make an IPA (i.e. use lots of hops), but get some durable haze.

But maybe I just might try dry hopping.

NEIPA's are hoppy as heck...it's just an aroma/flavor hop experience, not early addition bitter hop. You're going to want 1.5-2 oz hops per gallon as a starting point with most of those coming in whirlpool and, even more so, dry hop additions.
 
I have made super turbid beers without wheat, oats and even well floccuating strains. The key is simply the dry hopping method. Hit it with a dose near the end of FG and a very large second dry hop.

Even when I use whirlfloc, cold crash and even gelatin fined an IPA without any wheat/oats, that beer was as hazy as any NE IPA and never cleared.
 
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