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How to add permanent volume markings to a kettle (illustrated)

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Sweet! I just stumbled on this, so sorry if I'm necroposting lol. But will himalayan pink salt work for this? Or should I get a small thing of table salt?

I was even considering getting an actual kettle mainly for the graduation marks, but this looks more fun (and cheap)
 
No reason pink salt wouldn't work. As for "necroposting" (gotta be honest, I had to look that one up), this thread deserves to be brought back occasionally!
 
Just wanted to say thanks for the inspiration. Got mine done this past weekend.
 

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This method uses electrolytic acid etching but requires nothing but cheap household materials! The hardest part is taping off where you want the marks to be. This works by actually removing metal only where the current flows.

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10 gallon kettle, completely bare.

Ingredients:
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All you need is something acidic enough like vinegar and an electrolyte like salt. A ratio of 1/4 cup vinegar to 1 tsp salt worked for me.

9 volt battery and etching tool
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Hook up the POSITIVE lead directly to your kettle.
Attach the NEGATIVE lead directly to a Q-tip, making sure the wires will be touching the vinegar solution.

MAKE SURE YOU HOOK THEM UP IN THE RIGHT ORDER. The other way around would try to ADD metal to the kettle.

Stencils
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This was the only part I didn't have lying around. They were cheap at a local craft store. Adhesive and re-usable, perfect for this project.

Etch!
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Dip the Q-tip in your salted vinegar solution and touch the kettle. If you hear some sizzling or see some bubbling, you know it is working. It only takes a few seconds of contact to permanently dissolve some metal. I suggest testing it on another piece of the same metal that you don't care much about before etching your kettle.

The Result:
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It turned out even better than I expected. No more guessing or relying on a measuring stick.

Again, practice on some other metal first!


Awesome post thanks
 
Tough to do in a keggle. A little rough, but it'll do the job.
 

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Just wondering, its why I prefer to use a ruler, as in my pot I have a 2 Litre difference between room temp and boil for the same measurement.

Awesome idea though, will have to give this a try

Yup, I think most people either ignore the 2L and figure it will still taste like beer, or they'll use a conversion calculator for the hot volume.

It's pretty easy to do, you could do two separate scales for hot and cold.
 
How does everyone set theirs up?
Do you do it at mash temp, boil temp or tap water temp?

I mark at room temperature. When wort is at boil temperature it will register higher but you will still want to boil off the same amount. If you want to boil off 4 liters do that at what ever the measurement is at the higher temperature. When it cools off you will be back to the your original reference temperature minus the 4 liters. For all practical purposes a single liter or gallon is the same volume hot or cold.

Priceless brewing calculator is a nice tool for predicting volumes.
 
If you use a small low voltage AC supply the marks will be black. They are easier to see, they really stand out.

Do you have an example? An AC current wouldn’t remove material like the DC does. Just wondering how deep the markings are using AC. Sounds interesting. If it stays dark after cleaning, it may be a good way of adding “depth” to some of the more elaborate projects, using both AC and DC.......
 
i just tried this with a 9v.....didn't leave a better mark then a clean spot from PBW....lol...i'll have to try A/C now..... @Brewbuzzard how many volts? (i.e. can i cut a cord and use my cheapo fan speed controller?)

edit: fan speed controller is out...i just plugged a multi meter into it, and it just cycles voltage really fast between 80->100v's
 
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Do you have an example? An AC current wouldn’t remove material like the DC does. Just wondering how deep the markings are using AC. Sounds interesting. If it stays dark after cleaning, it may be a good way of adding “depth” to some of the more elaborate projects, using both AC and DC.......
I etched my last name on this keg. I assume the manufacturer used the same method to do the original labeling.
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I’ve tried with no luck as well. What voltage power supply? Today’s safe battery charger just won’t energize without a true connection, and the 9 volt battery didn’t make a mark. Maybe I was wired up backasswards
 
I’ve tried with no luck as well. What voltage power supply? Today’s safe battery charger just won’t energize without a true connection, and the 9 volt battery didn’t make a mark. Maybe I was wired up backasswards

I couldn't get it to work either - fortunately I have a car battery charger that worked great! I used the black wire to clamp onto the handle of the pot.
 
I tried 2 of mine but they kept tripping the safety protection. Guess it’s supposed to protect the clowns from crossing terminals, but I want to burn my SS!
 
I tried 2 of mine but they kept tripping the safety protection. Guess it’s supposed to protect the clowns from crossing terminals, but I want to burn my SS!
I am assuming you are using a GFCI circuit. I think it would see this as leakage current and trip. Am I correct in assuming a GFCI?
 
That looks great! Do you recall the specs on the transformer you used? Also, have you attempted to clean over it with something like bar keepers friend?
Input: 120 vac 60mA
Output: 9 vac 200mA
I've cleaned it for 3 years with about everything homebrewers use and it is still there. I also just used barkeeper's friend and it didn't bother it. Also, I did a small test on the underside of one of our SS pot lids before I did my keg and it has been scrubbed with barkeeper's friend many times plus the dishwasher
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and it shows only very slight signs of wear.
 
I’m skeptical. I’ve robbed power supplies off old modems and nothing. Found one for a laptop but it was 24v DC. Not sure I want to experiment with that big girl
 
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