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How long to ferment down?

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Rob2010SS

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Brewed a RIS last Saturday, 1/13. OG came in at 1.126. I oxygenated using an oxygen wand for 60 seconds and pitched 2 packs of US-05. Saw activity within 12 hours and it kicked off hard!

I went to go transfer it to my bourbon barrel last night and took a sample just to make sure it was done. It was still at 1.060! So, I sealed it back up and sadly didn't transfer.

My question is how long should a beer like this take to ferment down to expected FG of 1.030? I thought for sure it'd be done by now, especially when the blow off tube stopped bubbling. (However, when I sealed it back up, I just sealed it with an airlock and the airlock is still bubbling pretty consistently.)
 
Brewed a RIS last Saturday, 1/13. OG came in at 1.126. I oxygenated using an oxygen wand for 60 seconds and pitched 2 packs of US-05. Saw activity within 12 hours and it kicked off hard!

I went to go transfer it to my bourbon barrel last night and took a sample just to make sure it was done. It was still at 1.060! So, I sealed it back up and sadly didn't transfer.

My question is how long should a beer like this take to ferment down to expected FG of 1.030? I thought for sure it'd be done by now, especially when the blow off tube stopped bubbling. (However, when I sealed it back up, I just sealed it with an airlock and the airlock is still bubbling pretty consistently.)



2 pack is not inough. You should make a starter to make yeast strong for that OG.
Or use yeast cake. You have problem now.
Try repitch something strong.
 
If you are going to pitch more yeast, you need to make a starter and pitch them at high Krausen. If you just rehydrate more S-05 and dump it in to a no oxygen high alcohol environment, they are not going to do anything.
 
If you are still getting fermentation activity you don't have to do anything. I'd leave it alone for a month a least. Its going to sit in the barrel for a while, so there's no reason to rush anything.
 
There's no fermentation activity. I officially have a stuck fermentation - 2 hydrometer readings 1 week apart, both at 1.060. I read a thread on here that gave a few suggestions. Here's my plan...

1st attempt - 3oz of corn sugar and yeast nutrient, dissolved in boiled water, chilled to fermentation temp and add to fermenter. Swirl around to try and rouse up yeast. If this doesn't work...

2nd attempt - get more US-05, make a 1L starter and pitch at high krausen as others have stated.

If neither of those work, I'm out of ideas...
 
There's no fermentation activity. I officially have a stuck fermentation - 2 hydrometer readings 1 week apart, both at 1.060. I read a thread on here that gave a few suggestions. Here's my plan...

1st attempt - 3oz of corn sugar and yeast nutrient, dissolved in boiled water, chilled to fermentation temp and add to fermenter. Swirl around to try and rouse up yeast. If this doesn't work...

2nd attempt - get more US-05, make a 1L starter and pitch at high krausen as others have stated.

If neither of those work, I'm out of ideas...
Make a 2 liter starter to give the 2 packs of yeast something to work on.
 
Yeast nutrient will be here today since I already ordered it. I'm going to try it as I don't think it'll hurt the beer (unless someone tells me otherwise...)

I'll order the yeast and get that going in preparation of this failing.
 
I would not make a 1L starter with US05. It is engineered to not need one. Some say that you kill off half of the yeast when introducing directly into wort. So it is possible that 1/2 die, the 1 liter starter then produces new cells to get you back where you started.

If you are going to do a starter I would go about 2 liters and use a liquid yeast with a high alcohol tolerance.
 
I would not make a 1L starter with US05. It is engineered to not need one. Some say that you kill off half of the yeast when introducing directly into wort. So it is possible that 1/2 die, the 1 liter starter then produces new cells to get you back where you started.

If you are going to do a starter I would go about 2 liters and use a liquid yeast with a high alcohol tolerance.

@kh54s10 got any yeast recommendations?
 
Nottingham, Wyeast3711, Cbc1. In that order would work fine.

Quick question are you using a hydrometer or refractometer for your reading?

I brewed a RIS Sunday. Came in at 1.139 I pitched 6 packs of rehydrated Nottingham for a 11 gallon batch. I expect it will take 3-4 weeks before it’s ready to go in the barrel. I’ve been making that beer for 4 years now and it always takes time to finish.
 
Nottingham, Wyeast3711, Cbc1. In that order would work fine.

Quick question are you using a hydrometer or refractometer for your reading?

I brewed a RIS Sunday. Came in at 1.139 I pitched 6 packs of rehydrated Nottingham for a 11 gallon batch. I expect it will take 3-4 weeks before it’s ready to go in the barrel. I’ve been making that beer for 4 years now and it always takes time to finish.

I'm using a hydrometer.

Will those yeasts cause clashing flavors with the US 05 that i already used?

I did figure it would take a while to ferment down but 2 readings a week apart should show some difference if it was moving at all i would think
 
Ok just wanted to make sure you went using a refractometer.

Most of the flavor development occurs during the first 3 or 4 days of fermentation so you should be ok with switching yeasts. The key now is to have a strong alcohol tolerant yeast to finish the fermentation.

CBC1 is a killer yeast so you need to clean your gear well after you use it. It’s designed for cask aged beers and it will work.
 
And, if I go Nottingham, do I pitch 2 dry packs at this point given the alcohol or build up a starter with 1 pack?

Starter with the WY3711 or just pitch the pack?

Can I use US-04 instead or do I need Nottingham? My LHBS doesn't carry Nottingham
 
Neither yeast will drop it below your estimated FG.

A starter for 3711 rehydrate CBC or Nottingham.

I don’t use 04 so I can’t speculate on its suitability in this instance.
 
Alright @Dcpcooks last question (or anyone who can answer). I want to use the yeast nutrient I bought as well as pitching the new yeast. How would I go about doing that. Boil the 4tsp of yeast nutrient in a small amount of water, pitch that in the fermenter, and then pitch the new yeast after?
 
I’d add it to the starter wort. If your using dry yeast bring that water to a boil then cool it to your rehydration temps and pitch it all once it cools to room temp.
 
I’d add it to the starter wort. If your using dry yeast bring that water to a boil then cool it to your rehydration temps and pitch it all once it cools to room temp.
Ok so boil the water used to rehydrate the yeast with the nutrient, cool it, rehydrate the yeast in it and pitch all at once?
 
Hope it helps! You may want to double check the gravity one more time to make sure this is necessary.
 
Seems like a 1.126 OG would require one hell of a starter. That said, I’ve never tackled a monster like that. Over the years I’ve definitely learned to give all my beers 10-14 days of primary.
 
Seems like a 1.126 OG would require one hell of a starter. That said, I’ve never tackled a monster like that. Over the years I’ve definitely learned to give all my beers 10-14 days of primary.
Yeah ill be at 3 weeks primary this Saturday with no movement in gravity for 2 of them.
 
Ok so boil the water used to rehydrate the yeast with the nutrient, cool it, rehydrate the yeast in it and pitch all at once?
Boil the nutrient with the water. I traced a recurring infection to not boiling the nutrient. Not saying this would happen to you, but it could.
 
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