thats a good idea
How harmful are low ferment temps?
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thats a good idea
OP
OP
how is it so much better? does it actually give you more accurate readings than the fermometer? do you stick it inside your fermenter and wouldn't that make it a PITA to sanitize? it's obviously much mroe expensive.
do you have something that compares it to a fermometer? i can has results of test pls?
do you have something that compares it to a fermometer? i can has results of test pls?
My preference is to get the yeasts started fairly high in their temp range, and once the activity is high, then drop the temp down to the low range and let it finish there. Takes longer, but that way I get the benefit of a fast start, and lots of healthy yeast, and also less chance of off flavors later on.
njnear76
Well-Known Member
I like my beers dry and clean. Preferred yeast is Nottingham.
Lately I try to keep the waterbath around 50-55F for the first couple of days, then I let it warm up to 60F-65F. I usually let my beers ferment for 3 weeks to ensure that the nasties are cleaned up.
The yeast reproduction stage (first 24-48 hours) is when the most funk is created. Minimize the funk and you'll get a clean tasting beer. I guess it depends on what you are trying to accomplish.
Lately I try to keep the waterbath around 50-55F for the first couple of days, then I let it warm up to 60F-65F. I usually let my beers ferment for 3 weeks to ensure that the nasties are cleaned up.
The yeast reproduction stage (first 24-48 hours) is when the most funk is created. Minimize the funk and you'll get a clean tasting beer. I guess it depends on what you are trying to accomplish.
bamadoh
Well-Known Member
I am really glad to hear all the glowing reviews of Nottingham and its work in the lower 60s and 50's. I havea pale ale fermented with Nottingham and its been sitting in a brew closet with a fermometer reading of 60 for two and a half weeks. Because of this thread I have just let it sit. I will take a grav reading at 3 weeks and then hopefully bottle soon thereafter. I was a little worried that the yeasties may have gone dormant but I will trust in you guys since you have never steered me wrong so far (5 batches in).
Pivzavod
Well-Known Member
I stick it on the outside (doh!!!) and its accurate to 2-3 degrees from my tests. I've had a fermometer on my Coopers bucket, I agree with this for how accurate it is - https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/how-do-ya-read-fermometer-strip-50274/
As far as price, a stick on thermometer goes for $2.99 at AHS, I guess a penny more for a digital thermometer that can read it more accurately, can show you everything in real time, easier to see, can read from distance, works with F/C
is a bad deal.You do the math!
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
OP
OP
I stick it on the outside (doh!!!) and its accurate to 2-3 degrees from my tests. I've had a fermometer on my Coopers bucket, I agree with this for how accurate it is - https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/how-do-ya-read-fermometer-strip-50274/
As far as price, a stick on thermometer goes for $2.99 at AHS, I guess a penny more for a digital thermometer that can read it more accurately, can show you everything in real time, easier to see, can read from distance, works with F/C
You do the math!
so...how did you test it?
i have an internal/external thermometer that i taped to my carboy when i used my fermentation chiller. that way i could view it without opening the chiller. i found them to be a match to the fermometer every time, so i'd say they were pretty accurate.
i didn't realize those were so cheap, tho. might have to pick up a few and use them the same way
Pivzavod
Well-Known Member
I did a batch on Saturday and I tested with my other digital cooking thermometer (posted about it somewhere) and checked my wired thermometer and it was 2 degrees lower. I tested the wort inside the bucket & compared it to reading outside the bucket.
Check out how I have my cooler closed and wire sticking out
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/newbies-2nd-batch-some-diy-cooling-chamber-85133/
Check out how I have my cooler closed and wire sticking out
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/newbies-2nd-batch-some-diy-cooling-chamber-85133/
njnear76
Well-Known Member
Heh. I had my fermenter sitting in a 48F water bath and Nottingham was still working. Ferment it cold!
OP
OP
i just had 15 gallons finish out in 4 days with nottingham fermenting at 54°F. this beer is gonna rock!
Rhoobarb
Well-Known Member
For most ale yeasts (English, US) I primary in my crawlspace which is a constant 66oF-67oF. I wouldn't want to go much lower than that and definitely don't want to see it spike above 70oF. After primary, I will bring it up to ~70oF for a day or two, then rack to secondary and leave it at 66oF-67oF. Once I keg it, I try to get it as cold as possible (easy to do this time of year out in my garage) for a few days before putting it on CO2.
Lager yeast, I monitor like crazy! Primary at ~46oF-48oF until the krausen falls, then do a two day D'rest at near 70oF. I then rack it to secondary and let it get as close to freezing (~36oF-38oF) as possible for as long as I can stand it! At least six weeks. I also am beginning to use gelatin to clear it in secondary during this time.
German and European Ale (Kolsch, Alt), Steam/Cali Common, I'll primary like an English or US ale yeast, but secondary like a lager.
Belgian or Saison yeast, I'll try and get above 70oF, especially if I'm trying to bring out any bubble gum/clove/banana esters. After primary, I'll treat it the same as any other ale yeast.
And if you really want to know what the temperature is inside your fermenter/carboy, you need a thermowell! That may be my next big purchase for fermenting lagers.
Lager yeast, I monitor like crazy! Primary at ~46oF-48oF until the krausen falls, then do a two day D'rest at near 70oF. I then rack it to secondary and let it get as close to freezing (~36oF-38oF) as possible for as long as I can stand it!
At least six weeks. I also am beginning to use gelatin to clear it in secondary during this time.German and European Ale (Kolsch, Alt), Steam/Cali Common, I'll primary like an English or US ale yeast, but secondary like a lager.
Belgian or Saison yeast, I'll try and get above 70oF, especially if I'm trying to bring out any bubble gum/clove/banana esters. After primary, I'll treat it the same as any other ale yeast.
And if you really want to know what the temperature is inside your fermenter/carboy, you need a thermowell! That may be my next big purchase for fermenting lagers.
Using Ale yeast for a Pale in a glass carboy.
Do you think a closet that reads ambient 59/60f will be fine to ferment in? My hopes are that while fermenting, the yeast will maintain a temp in the low to mid 60's due to fermentation, and then post fermentation temps will drop to a high 50's low 60's where it can clarify.
Do you think the fermentation will support enough heat to prevent it from going dormant?
My other option is a living room that is 66f ambient, which I assume will be too hot with the added fermentation temps.
Do you think a closet that reads ambient 59/60f will be fine to ferment in? My hopes are that while fermenting, the yeast will maintain a temp in the low to mid 60's due to fermentation, and then post fermentation temps will drop to a high 50's low 60's where it can clarify.
Do you think the fermentation will support enough heat to prevent it from going dormant?
My other option is a living room that is 66f ambient, which I assume will be too hot with the added fermentation temps.
All Belgian strains I have used so far seem to work best in the low-to-mid 70's. I cool to mid 60's for pitching and just let them run their course at room temp 72-74*F. The few times I have fermented cooler I am not happy with the yeast character... too clean! Also the Belgian ale strains seem to kick off sulfur at lower temps which is not desirable. If there are exceptions, I'd like to hear them!
The English ale yeasts I keep in the mid 60's since they are prone to early flocculation. I also rouse the yeast daily during primary fermentation to minimize residual diacetyl (keep those yeasties in contact with the beer).
Other ale strains I have used - Notty, Cali, Kolsch - all do very well at 60*F. The Kolsch is my favorite for pale beers, it produces a very lager-like flavor profile around 60*F with a high pitching rate.
The English ale yeasts I keep in the mid 60's since they are prone to early flocculation. I also rouse the yeast daily during primary fermentation to minimize residual diacetyl (keep those yeasties in contact with the beer).
Other ale strains I have used - Notty, Cali, Kolsch - all do very well at 60*F. The Kolsch is my favorite for pale beers, it produces a very lager-like flavor profile around 60*F with a high pitching rate.
Sorry, this is in preparation for my first brew.
Danstar Windsor and Nottingham are the ones I can find locally.
So with Nottingham at 57-70, and Windsor at 64-70, I'm planning
on using Nottingham. I'm trying to brew a clean pale ale and it seems
Nottingham in a room that is registering 59-61 on an empty carboy
will fall into the mid 60's during fermentation.
Being my first brew, and temp unmodulated, Nottingham seems to
have that extra low range buffer I may experience as it gets colder
in my exterior facing closet.
*Finishes Arrogant Bastard Ale*
Edit - I could order other yeast, but Nottingham seems right, and it
just feels like I might be getting fresher yeast from a LHBS.
Danstar Windsor and Nottingham are the ones I can find locally.
So with Nottingham at 57-70, and Windsor at 64-70, I'm planning
on using Nottingham. I'm trying to brew a clean pale ale and it seems
Nottingham in a room that is registering 59-61 on an empty carboy
will fall into the mid 60's during fermentation.
Being my first brew, and temp unmodulated, Nottingham seems to
have that extra low range buffer I may experience as it gets colder
in my exterior facing closet.
*Finishes Arrogant Bastard Ale*
Edit - I could order other yeast, but Nottingham seems right, and it
just feels like I might be getting fresher yeast from a LHBS.
OP
OP
nottingham is a much better yeast IMO. The few times I used Windsor, it gave unpleasant fruity flavors and really low attenuation.
+1 for Notty. It's a great clean yeast.
donaldson
Member
Definitely - Nottingham is very versatile. Windsor seems to be more of a specialty yeast.
+1 for notty as well. I have brewed about 20+ batches with that stuff anywhere from 59°F to 78°F without a problem. In the summer it gets warm in ferment closet and in the winter a little cooler, yet the notty doesn't seem to mind. In fact, the 62° range seems to be best. I guess I could do some sort of controlled study, but I have enjoyed all my beers so far and never felt compelled to "root cause" any off-tasting beer.
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