How do you know you have 120V 20A service?

[Tedyfinger]

How do you know for sure you have 20A service? This is one of the receptacles in my kitchen, and on my breaker panel it has a 20A breaker, but the regular 5-15 receptacle trows me off, it is supposed to have a 5-20, doesn't it?

Thanks in advance guys

 

[iijakii]

Should be good to swap the outlet. Look at what gauge wire is running to it.

 

[GreenMonti]

Agreed. If the wire running to it is the proper size, you can swap the outlet.

I "believe" 20amp wire is 12awg.

 

[DarkUncle]

Yep. Receptacles mean nothing. If the circuit has a 20 amp breaker, odds are its 12/2 wiring as opposed to 14/2 on 15 amp circuits. Kitchens are supposed to be wired on 20 amp circuits. I believe that code pretty much everywhere these days.

 

[itsnotrequired]

Yep. Receptacles mean nothing. If the circuit has a 20 amp breaker, odds are its 12/2 wiring as opposed to 14/2 on 15 amp circuits. Kitchens are supposed to be wired on 20 amp circuits. I believe that code pretty much everywhere these days.

99.9% chance it is a 20 amp circuit, seeing as how it is a kitchen, but receptacles do come into play. it is acceptable to place multiple 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp circuit but it is not okay to place a single 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit. for single-receptacle applications, the receptacle cannot be rated greater than the branch circuit rating.

 

[augiedoggy]

How old is the home? the other possibility is a former Bubba homeowner solved the issue of his coffee maker and toaster running at the same popping the breaker time by swapping the breaker ..... Just saying its a possibility.. I would pull the outlet and check the wire size feeding it.

 

[glenm]

How old is the home?

The other thing to watch for in older homes is whether the wiring is Romex or knob-and-tube. I've seen more than one house fire because a bunch of very reasonable 5 or 10 amp draws on "separate circuits" eventually summed up to 40 or 50 amps on a shared common. If you've got knob-and-tube, even if it is 10 or 12 gauge, try to follow the common circuit back to see if any others are spliced in. You can also get some evidence of this if the number of commons coming into your panel are fewer than the total number of circuits. I found a pile of that and other electrical problems in my 1930s house.

I am not a licensed electrician, and don't even play one on TV.

 

[Tedyfinger]

So, one side of the receptacle says 20A, but the other 15A, the cables look 12 gauge but I could not confirm, House is 9 years old. at the breaker panel all my kitchen, garage and bathrooms have 20A breakers.

 

[Tedyfinger]

By the way, I know those receptacles look nasty, I already cleaned them

 

[DarkUncle]

If house is only 9 years old you're good. Definitely 20 amp and 12 gauge wiring.

 

[odorf]

I aint trying to be a know it, cause i dont.

but i do know that your wall plug is back stabbed.

the wire is pushed into a hole and friction holds it in place, yeah well

that design is as about a good a design as a yogo.

pull the wire out of the hole, then attach the wire to the side of the plug

using the screws




the reason you have a 5 15,instead 5-20 is because you have more than 1 receptical on that breaker,

the 20 amp breaker is not so that ypu can use just 1 20 amp plug, but you can use multible 15 amp plugs at the same time

does that make since?

 

[Tedyfinger]

Thanks DarkUncle

 

[ingchr1]

I aint trying to be a know it, cause i dont.

but i do know that your wall plug is back stabbed.

the wire is pushed into a hole and friction holds it in place, yeah well

that design is as about a good a design as a yogo.

pull the wire out of the hole, then attach the wire to the side of the plug

using the screws

Hard to tell from just a photo, but it could it be the type where the wire gets clamped in place by the screw on the side?

If that's the case then there's no issue with the way it is.

 

[odorf]

Hard to tell from just a photo, but it could it be the type where the wire gets clamped in place by the screw on the side?

If that's the case then there's no issue with the way it is.

then he needs to take another picture , so we can see what the hell is going on here

 

[The10mmKid]

Tedy,
You are OK to install a 20A GFCI if your wire is 12ga.

Contractors use the 15A as the 20A are way more expensive. (you'll find out for yourself)

Keep in mind, there appears to be another protected outlet with this one. It will also need to be considered when you start drawing +17A on this circuit.

I.E, no microwaving while brewing.

'da Kid

 

[Kh2o]

Okay. First I am a licensed master electrician. 15 years worth of it. As other eluded to. ALL electrical outlets are rated for at least 20 amp. ALL. The only difference between a 20 amp and 15 amp is the outlet face. The only reason they make different faces is for appliances. Certain high current alliances need 20 amp, therefore they make a plug and outlet combination to guarantee said appliance gets plugged into the proper size circuit.

Again as others said it's the size of the wire that is important.

As far as backed stabbed this gfci device using screws to compress the wire connection this is FINE. In fact it's better than wrapping around the screw. NO device accepts 12 awg wire as a backstab. You can only fit 14 awg and gfci don't have this feature, only standard outlets.

I am new to this forum, I am taking personal responsibility to monitor this forum for these questions as amateur electricians scare me.

 

[Tedyfinger]

Okay. First I am a licensed master electrician. 15 years worth of it. As other eluded to. ALL electrical outlets are rated for at least 20 amp. ALL. The only difference between a 20 amp and 15 amp is the outlet face. The only reason they make different faces is for appliances. Certain high current alliances need 20 amp, therefore they make a plug and outlet combination to guarantee said appliance gets plugged into the proper size circuit.

Again as others said it's the size of the wire that is important.

As far as backed stabbed this gfci device using screws to compress the wire connection this is FINE. In fact it's better than wrapping around the screw. NO device accepts 12 awg wire as a backstab. You can only fit 14 awg and gfci don't have this feature, only standard outlets.

I am new to this forum, I am taking personal responsibility to monitor this forum for these questions as amateur electricians scare me.

Kh2o, so That means my wire is 14 awg? I am sorry I got lost here

 

[Kh2o]

No, if it's your kitchen it will be 12 wire. The best way to check buy a pair of wire strippers. Take the bare portion of the wire and insert it though the 14 awg slot. If it doesn't fit, it's 12 or larger.

I rushed my post as I read it back I can see how you are confused. I apologize.

What are you plugging into it?

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

thats 12 gage wire, Ive seen it enough to know, you can bend 14 gage with one hand, not so easy with 12

 

[odorf]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=555651&page=2

page #9

Kh20

glad we have a sparky here. if you have the time.
check out the 220 control panel in the link above.
cant miss it, its red/ ugly lotta wires

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

my gosh that paint job

 

[odorf]

their is a story behind that paint job.

"Wat happ'n was"

that is a metal dewalt drill box, black in color. i had painted the front a white
so it could be identified from other boxs. at a quick glance.

when i painted the box with the red enamel paint. the front did not dry, it stayed tacky.
the back and sides, dried nicely.
so after i fussed with it, tried painting it again. still same ****.
i scraped all the paint off and redid it.

what started out as a nice neat pant job, turned into a *****'n clusterf___

LOL...

 

[Tedyfinger]

My kitchen wire is 12 awg, the green wire is 14 awg that I had laying around, and I just went ahead and made the trip to homedepot and I am to code now.

Kh2o, I will be plugging a 2000 watt 120v element. Now, this circuit includes my fridge, any concerns of brewing and having the fridge running at the same time? It only takes me one minute to unplug the fridge and use an extension cord to another receptacle

 

[iijakii]

How many amps does your fridge draw? It very well might trip. Might be fine. Just go about and if the breaker flips unplug the fridge and reset it.

 

[cilestiok]

Kh2o, I will be plugging a 2000 watt 120v element. Now, this circuit includes my fridge, any concerns of brewing and having the fridge running at the same time? It only takes me one minute to unplug the fridge and use an extension cord to another receptacle

I would definitely recommend removing the fridge load from the circuit before using your element. You will already be looking at 12-16 amps without including the fridge.

 

[Kh2o]

Just role with it you're fine. And do what iijakii said.

 

[The10mmKid]

My preference would be to temporarily place the fridge on a short heavy extension cord.

'da Kid

 

[itsnotrequired]

Okay. First I am a licensed master electrician. 15 years worth of it. As other eluded to. ALL electrical outlets are rated for at least 20 amp. ALL. The only difference between a 20 amp and 15 amp is the outlet face. The only reason they make different faces is for appliances. Certain high current alliances need 20 amp, therefore they make a plug and outlet combination to guarantee said appliance gets plugged into the proper size circuit.

Again as others said it's the size of the wire that is important.

As far as backed stabbed this gfci device using screws to compress the wire connection this is FINE. In fact it's better than wrapping around the screw. NO device accepts 12 awg wire as a backstab. You can only fit 14 awg and gfci don't have this feature, only standard outlets.

I am new to this forum, I am taking personal responsibility to monitor this forum for these questions as amateur electricians scare me.

need to be careful here. 15 amp duplex receptacles are indeed rated for 20 amps, per their ul listing. and it is acceptable to use backstabs in lieu of the screw terminals to make connections. and the backstabs are also only rated for #14 awg conductors. so far, so good. with all that being said, using the backstabs will limit the branch circuit to #14 awg conductors and thus, a 15 amp circuit. it is not acceptable to run, say, an 18 amp load on a duplex receptacle that is utilizing backstab connections, even if the receptacle is rated for 20 amp.

in regards to the backstab being a 'better' connection than the screw terminal, both are totally acceptable if properly made. the issue with backstab connections is that they are are more prone to not being properly made, particularly for the non-professional or diyer.

gfci receptacles have backstab connections but they are not the same as on standard receptacles. standard backstab receptacles use a blade device which 'cuts' into the conductor to hold it in place. the backstabs on gfci receptacles utilize a compression connection which is made up by screwing in the screw terminal. the reason gfci receptacles utilize this technique is so two conductors can be terminated at the same point. with only the screw terminal connection, only a single conductor can be terminated. and the gfci back connections can take #12 conductors.

 

[augiedoggy]

The other thing to watch for in older homes is whether the wiring is Romex or knob-and-tube. I've seen more than one house fire because a bunch of very reasonable 5 or 10 amp draws on "separate circuits" eventually summed up to 40 or 50 amps on a shared common. If you've got knob-and-tube, even if it is 10 or 12 gauge, try to follow the common circuit back to see if any others are spliced in. You can also get some evidence of this if the number of commons coming into your panel are fewer than the total number of circuits. I found a pile of that and other electrical problems in my 1930s house.

I am not a licensed electrician, and don't even play one on TV.

lucky Dog... I only had 2 outlets on my whole second floor along with the old pull chain lights in my early 1800s school house converted to a duplex build. ... I had to fish multiple runs of 14g and even the 10g for my second floor brewery upstairs which I guess was safer than your situation but it really wasnt any fun dealing with one outlet in my bedroom until that rewire occured.. My first floor was rewired long ago with romex. I did find a cool civil war area bayonet in one of the walls....
still looking for the Musket