How do you all attach lines to your mash tuns and boil kettles?

[WesBrew]

I think you meant to write this:
"Use a type A male if your attaching it to something with female npt threads"

Such as valves.

I thought “A “ had female threads. Maybe that’s the wrong one. one has a male thread to screw into, one has a female thread to screw onto- like a plate chiller or nipple

 

[Golddiggie]

I switched from cam-lock to the ball-lock QD fittings soon after I started brewing again last year. Just too much of a PITA to connect up the cam-locks. With the ball-lock style, I can make the connection with one hand.

I have male fittings on all kettle (or stationary items as already mentioned) and female on all the hoses. Hose fittings are also the full bore size, so 5/8" barbs to get an actual 1/2" ID on the fitting. My kettles have 1-1/2" TC fittings on them, so I just connect the matching TC to QC fittings as needed. Plate chiller has a male QD fitting on the wort in and a TC fitting on the wort out. That allows me to place the oxygen infusion setup onto the plate chiller and not have it move on me (rotate). Pump heads are center inlet, but also TC connections, so no NPT adapters needed.
NOT having any NPT fittings on almost everything (except the wort in on the plate chiller) is a HUGE plus IMO. I have butterfly valves everywhere except the MT recirculation inlet fitting (ball valve there) and the plate chiller outlet to control chilling temperature. All valves are TC connections. Even with the higher cost of the TC fittings, the ease of disassembly more than makes it worth it (IMO).

I also ditched worm clamps ages ago. With the oversized barbs on the female/hose fittings, you don't need them. On all my keg lines I have oetiker clamps since they simply don't leak, ever. I've had nothing but problems anytime I've tried using worm clamps. Even the "butterfly" style (on the glycol chiller lines, before going to oetiker clamps there).

I also make it a point to have reserve 1/2" ID tubing on hand in case I either need to make a different length line, or want to replace what's already in use. Once they reach a certain level of discoloration, I 'retire' the old piece. I do try a PBW soak before that though. But with the barb size I'm using, changing pieces is actually pretty easy.

 

[Beer Viking]

Yes and sort of. I'd suggest "pipe dope" instead of tape, but that's a personal preference and tape will do. Just make sure to wrap it the right direction so that threading the fitting in place doesn't undo your tape job.

Thanks for the help! I'll order and try to install it ASAP. Which way is the right way to wrap the tape?

 

[IslandLizard]

Which way is the right way to wrap the tape?

With the fitting side facing toward you (threads facing away) tape goes on counter-clockwise.

Hold the fitting in your left hand, threads pointing toward your right hand, wind the tape on counter-clockwise, tape coming from underneath toward you.

 

[tracer bullet]

Something like Blue Monster or a special "food grade" pipe dope?

Excellent point, sorry I didn't mention it specifically. Here's what I've been using for a few years, and have sort of forgotten about why I specifically bought it (that it's OK for drinking water):

https://www.mcmaster.com/45855K5/
When I use it, the act of screwing the fittings together tends to push the excess towards the outside where it can be wiped off, but yes, choose safety.

Which way is the right way to wrap the tape?

The description given should work but - just think of the direction the male threads will screw into the female side. wrap the tape in a direction that will have the fitting threads smooth the tape out, not go against it and bunch it up. It'll get to be intuitive after you try it I think.

 

[oakbarn]

Tons of you tube videos on how to wrap tape!

 

[corkybstewart]

I just use silicone hose on barbed fittings. Tight enough not to leak without clamps. Pushes on, pulls off.

It's worked very well for my 28 years of brewing. It's easy, cheap and I don't have to worry about cleanliness(whethter it's a real issue or not is irrelevent).

 

[oakbarn]

I would say for supply to a pump or gravity fed systems, then no clamp. If under any pressure, use a clamp.

 

[oakbarn]

It's worked very well for my 28 years of brewing. It's easy, cheap and I don't have to worry about cleanliness(whethter it's a real issue or not is irrelevent).

I have always been worried about how clean these types of connections are. We now are only really concerned about the cold side once the wort is chilled. We sanitize everything with hot water from our HLT while we are brewing. As a minimum we pass 180 Degree F water through the plate chiller and the hose to the fermentor for at least 45 minutes. Many times it is longer. We don't worry to much on the hot side although we do clean everything (in place normally) after we brew, but just let air dry for the next brew. We have a permanent manifold that we rarely take apart. We do occasionally inspect it but have never found any issues. The cold side (plate chiller onward) we do extra cleaning and pass starsan then let dry. We then sanitize while boiling.

We have a lot of TC Fitting because we though everything had to be super clean and sanitized, but now only know better.

On the Hot side, any connection you want to make is going to be fine and ease of use should be a prime consideration. It does take two people to make a TC connection if the pipe is hot to touch.

We did use the Kent Disconnects for many years and we might go back to those for any hoses that we move (mostly for cleaning and filling vessels with water).

We would never put any valve on the Cold Side past any chiller.

 

[corkybstewart]

I have always been worried about how clean these types of connections are. We now are only really concerned about the cold side once the wort is chilled. We sanitize everything with hot water from our HLT while we are brewing. As a minimum we pass 180 Degree F water through the plate chiller and the hose to the fermentor for at least 45 minutes. Many times it is longer. We don't worry to much on the hot side although we do clean everything (in place normally) after we brew, but just let air dry for the next brew. We have a permanent manifold that we rarely take apart. We do occasionally inspect it but have never found any issues. The cold side (plate chiller onward) we do extra cleaning and pass starsan then let dry. We then sanitize while boiling.

We have a lot of TC Fitting because we though everything had to be super clean and sanitized, but now only know better.

On the Hot side, any connection you want to make is going to be fine and ease of use should be a prime consideration. It does take two people to make a TC connection if the pipe is hot to touch.

We did use the Kent Disconnects for many years and we might go back to those for any hoses that we move (mostly for cleaning and filling vessels with water).

We would never put any valve on the Cold Side past any chiller.

I have a 3 tiered pump fed system with an immersion chiller to get the temp down under 100F, and then a copper coil in an ice bath to do the final chill. The pump is to recirculate through the kettle, and eventually to the fermenter. So everything that's on the hot side eventually is on the cool side. I use one hose to transfer from the hot liquor tank into the mash tun, then that hose goes from the mash tun to the kettle, so pulling it off a barb is the simplest solution. At the end of the brewing session I pump 4-5 gallons of boiling water through the entire tubing system to clean it, and recirculating at 200F takes care of any lingering infectables(?).

 

[Beer Viking]

My lines and clamps came today and thanks to you all, THEY FIT! I just wanted to thank you all at helping me complete my boil kettle. As soon as I figure out everything with my mashtun I'm good to go! Thanks again everyone!

 

[Golddiggie]

I'm still working on my manifold setup for all liquid runs for the brewing system. Hard lines/pipe (with 90's and such) are coming and should be here Tuesday. Setup means that I don't need to move lines at all. Simply open/close valves to direct liquids to where they need to go. Advantage of having two pumps mounted to the brew stand.

 

[50calshooter]

I use cam lock fittings

 

[oakbarn]

We have
5 pumps. Never move pumps. Everything by valves