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How do you move water around from one vessel to another if you are doing a 10 or a 20 G batch?

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Beer Viking

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I just did my first all grain batch and I did a 5.5 G batch. Due to the amount of work involved I'd love to start doing 10 G batches but I won't be able to lift the boil kettle above the mashtun and pour water into it if it's full of 13 Gs of water. How do you guys do it?
 
Pumps my friend, pumps are wonderful.. a few companies make pumps just for us fine homebrewing folk. Option 2 would be having a helping hand, a friend to hold 1 side of the kettle while hold the other and dump simultaneously..

As you continue with the hobby you will find the pumps useful for a lot of tasks throughout the brewing process.
 
I do BIAB in a bottom draining keggle, so my biggest effort is filling with RO water stored in corny kegs. For that, I stand on the countertop. And again when I hoist the grain bag out of the keggle. Few worries, as I don't usually have too many beers in me by this point.

Otherwise, the wort gravity drains to my fermenters.
 
I've been making 10 gallons of beer using the BIAB method for about half a year now, making mash with double the amount of grain, boiling it, and then distributing it in two 5-gallon fermenters. Before pitching the yeast, I add the same amount of water to each fermenter. That way, I brew 5 gallons, and get two 5-gallons. The only difficulty in the process is lifting the bag with double the amount of grain, but I save a lot of time, energy, and time cooling the wort. I haven't noticed any difference in quality.
 
I BIAB as well. I mash in the boil kettle, the use a pulley to move the grain bag to another vessel next to it that has the sparge water (~5+ gallons) in it. I then use the pulley to raise/drain the grain, then I manually dump the sparge wort into the boil kettle. If it was a larger volume I'd use a pump. (Maybe I'll do that anyway some day). After the boil, I use a pump to transfer from the boil kettle out the ball valve and through my counterflow chiller into my fermenter. Once the fermenter is sealed up (in a 13.2 gallon kegmenter) I can manhandle it over to the fermentation fridge pretty easily.
 
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When I had a 3 vessel system, I did exactly what Ninoid described -- If I wanted 10 gallons, I brewed a high gravity 5-6 gallon batch and then split it between two fermenters and added top-off water to each. After a while I got tired of even lifting 5-6 gallons of water/wort, so I switched to an All-In-One Electric brewing set up with a Grainfather G40 which has its own built in pump. I use a hoist to lift the brew basket up when bewing 10 gallon batches and use a long hose to pump the wort into two conical fermenters. No more lifting heavy objects for me.
 
I use the bucket method mostly. I brew outside and I do most of my fermenting in 5 g SS brew buckets. I also have a CF-10 that is in the garage - that gets filled with multiple bucket dumps. For me, it's not all in one place and the hose runs don't make sense - 50 yards away is a little far.

I do use a pump to package the beer from the fermenter to the corny. Also have a pump in the Brewzilla - pumps are the bomb. Love em and use them when I can.
 
I do BIAB in a bottom draining keggle, so my biggest effort is filling with RO water stored in corny kegs. For that, I stand on the countertop. And again when I hoist the grain bag out of the keggle. Few worries, as I don't usually have too many beers in me by this point.

Otherwise, the wort gravity drains to my fermenters.

Same kind of thing for me. I have a 20 gallon BK with a drain valve for BIAB. I just fill it with RO water from 5 gallon jugs. After the boil, just drain into two 7 gallon Brew Buckets and set them in the ferm chamber. The heaviest I have to lift is a little over 40 lbs. I use a ratchet hoist to lift out the wet grain bag and let it drain over the kettle.
 

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