Hop burn?

[JoeTheBartender]

Trying my hand at a triple IPA recipe. The hop schedule seems pretty intense. A few of my fellow home Brewers have expressed that I will most likely get intense hop burn. Was wondering if you agree or think I'll be good. I'd hate to waste that much hops.

Schedule:
2 oz (57 g) Citra at whirlpool
2 oz (57 g) Mosaic at whirlpool


2 oz (57 g) Citra one day after high kräusen
2 oz (57 g) Mosaic one day after high kräusen
4 oz (114 g) El Dorado one day after high kräusen

Transfer to secondary
2 oz (57 g) Citra dry hop 3 days before bottling.
2 oz (57 g) Mosaic dry hop 3 days before bottling.

 

[BrewingAroundtheRrealm]

Looks like you are brewing this recipe: Make It: Odd13 Brewing 1337 H4X0R Triple IPA If beer and brewing says it's good, then it's good enough for me. Go for it. I would not transfer that to secondary at all.

 

[JoeTheBartender]

Looks like you are brewing this recipe: Make It: Odd13 Brewing 1337 H4X0R Triple IPA If beer and brewing says it's good, then it's good enough for me. Go for it. I would not transfer that to secondary at all.

I wasn't planning to transfer. I was planning to just pull out the first round of hops because I don't want them to sit for 7 or so days.

 

[Dgallo]

I’m going to critique this quite a bit, please don’t take offense I just want to help.

1) First and for most........ DO NOT USE A SECONDARY EVER !!!!!! All you will do is oxidize you’re beer and especially if it’s an ipa.

2) for a triple ipa you want boil hops. You should target a minimum of .5 BU to GU, meaning if your og is 1.096 you want a minimum of 48 boil ibus. Alcohol exemplifies sweetness so you may even was to target a .7 BU TO GU.

3) adding dryhops at high krausen or during fermentation WILL create massive hopburn. Yeast bind polyphenols to proteins (What hopburn is) and since it bound it will stay in Suspension longer. Always deyhop after yeast is settled. If you can soft crash to remove it first, even better.

4) lastly since your bottling you will most likely experience oxidation. Please review how to bottle minimizing the most o2 pick up possible.

Here is a link to my triple ipa recipe. It’s a solid recipe and you can use any hops that work for you. This has produce multiple medal winners, including a gold medal for a HBT member who tried it
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/new-england-style-tipa.679435/

 

[JoeTheBartender]

I’m going to critique this quite a bit, please don’t take offense I just want to help.

1) First and for most........ DO NOT USE A SECONDARY EVER !!!!!! All you will do is oxidize you’re beer and especially if it’s an ipa.

2) for a triple ipa you want boil hops. You should target a minimum of .5 BU to GU, meaning if your og is 1.096 you want a minimum of 48 boil ibus. Alcohol exemplifies sweetness so you may even was to target a .7 BU TO GU.

3) adding dryhops at high krausen or during fermentation WILL create massive hopburn. Yeast bind polyphenols to proteins (What hopburn is) and since it bound it will stay in Suspension longer. Always deyhop after yeast is settled. If you can soft crash to remove it first, even better.

4) lastly since your bottling you will most likely experience oxidation. Please review how to bottle minimizing the most o2 pick up possible.

Here is a link to my triple ipa recipe. It’s a solid recipe and you can use any hops that work for you. This has produce multiple metal winner, including a gold medal for a HBT member who tried it
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/new-england-style-tipa.679435/

Thanks for the advice! I've been brewing for about 8 years but have specialized in Sours and stouts so I've never really had to deal with dry hopping (maybe once or twice in a sour).

Thats what I was concerned about but that recipe is pretty highly rated and it looked a bit over the top for me. Glad to see it wasn't only me!
I have never had an oxidation issue in bottling.

 

[JoeTheBartender]

I’m going to critique this quite a bit, please don’t take offense I just want to help.

1) First and for most........ DO NOT USE A SECONDARY EVER !!!!!! All you will do is oxidize you’re beer and especially if it’s an ipa.

2) for a triple ipa you want boil hops. You should target a minimum of .5 BU to GU, meaning if your og is 1.096 you want a minimum of 48 boil ibus. Alcohol exemplifies sweetness so you may even was to target a .7 BU TO GU.

3) adding dryhops at high krausen or during fermentation WILL create massive hopburn. Yeast bind polyphenols to proteins (What hopburn is) and since it bound it will stay in Suspension longer. Always deyhop after yeast is settled. If you can soft crash to remove it first, even better.

4) lastly since your bottling you will most likely experience oxidation. Please review how to bottle minimizing the most o2 pick up possible.

Here is a link to my triple ipa recipe. It’s a solid recipe and you can use any hops that work for you. This has produce multiple metal winner, including a gold medal for a HBT member who tried it
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/new-england-style-tipa.679435/

Also when I asked reddit about it the said to come to homebrew talk and find you i just can't figure out how to DM.

 

[MN brewer]

I’m going to critique this quite a bit, please don’t take offense I just want to help.

1) First and for most........ DO NOT USE A SECONDARY EVER !!!!!! All you will do is oxidize you’re beer and especially if it’s an ipa.

2) for a triple ipa you want boil hops. You should target a minimum of .5 BU to GU, meaning if your og is 1.096 you want a minimum of 48 boil ibus. Alcohol exemplifies sweetness so you may even was to target a .7 BU TO GU.

3) adding dryhops at high krausen or during fermentation WILL create massive hopburn. Yeast bind polyphenols to proteins (What hopburn is) and since it bound it will stay in Suspension longer. Always deyhop after yeast is settled. If you can soft crash to remove it first, even better.

4) lastly since your bottling you will most likely experience oxidation. Please review how to bottle minimizing the most o2 pick up possible.

Here is a link to my triple ipa recipe. It’s a solid recipe and you can use any hops that work for you. This has produce multiple medal winners, including a gold medal for a HBT member who tried it
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/new-england-style-tipa.679435/

I followed theelectricbrewery.com recipe for their Hop Candy NEIPA. It calls for dry hop at high krausen and a few days before kegging. I tasted a specific gravity sample and was horrified at the burning astringency which I assume was hop burn. However it was mostly gone after cold crashing to 32f prior to kegging and after a week of conditioning in the keg, I didn’t notice it at all.

If I went with your method of soft crash and remove yeast (about to brew first time with new SS conical) I have to drop the yeast rather than take it with the racking arm to completely remove correct? Conical directions recommend dropping trub 24-48 hours in “before it solidifies”. Does that make sense too? TIA.

 

[BrewingAroundtheRrealm]

I wasn't planning to transfer. I was planning to just pull out the first round of hops because I don't want them to sit for 7 or so days.

You should be fine then.

 

[Dgallo]

You should be fine then.

Pulling a bag out, draining it, will cause the outside air into your fermenter and will cause splashing which will dissolve oxygen into the beer. It will greatly increase oxidation of the hop compounds

 

[Dgallo]

I followed theelectricbrewery.com recipe for their Hop Candy NEIPA. It calls for dry hop at high krausen and a few days before kegging. I tasted a specific gravity sample and was horrified at the burning astringency which I assume was hop burn. However it was mostly gone after cold crashing to 32f prior to kegging and after a week of conditioning in the keg, I didn’t notice it at all.

If I went with your method of soft crash and remove yeast (about to brew first time with new SS conical) I have to drop the yeast rather than take it with the racking arm to completely remove correct? Conical directions recommend dropping trub 24-48 hours in “before it solidifies”. Does that make sense too? TIA.

If I understand you correctly, you can drop trub twice. Once for the trub post fermentation and then again when you flocced the yeast. But unless you’re able to set it up where your only allowing co2 in when dumping the trub, you should limited it to one time.

 

[MN brewer]

If I understand you correctly, you can drop trub twice. Once for the trub post fermentation and then again when you flocced the yeast. But unless you’re able to set it up where your only allowing co2 in when dumping the trub, you should limited it to one time.

I’m daisy chaining 2 sanke kegs to the fermentor to purge co2. When I drop trub both times I’ll be connected to a co2 tank with low psi, same with cold crash and transfer. All EVA tubing. Pulling out all the stops I can think of to eliminate O2 from the equation.

 

[Dgallo]

I’m daisy chaining 2 sanke kegs to the fermentor to purge co2. When I drop trub both times I’ll be connected to a co2 tank with low psi, same with cold crash and transfer. All EVA tubing. Pulling out all the stops I can think of to eliminate O2 from the equation.

That’s perfect then!