Hop boil times question

[Cheepbeer]

I am ready to do a blond ale that calls for hops to be added 4 times during the hour long boil... At 60...35...20... and 5 minutes. My question is:

Do I leave the hops in the pot? ... all 4 one after the other? Do I remove them after the boil? Or remove previos hops as new are added?? I know its a newbie question... How do you do 4 hop introductions? Thanks !

 

[Yooper]

I am ready to do a blond ale that calls for hops to be added 4 times during the hour long boil... At 60...35...20... and 5 minutes. My question is:

Do I leave the hops in the pot? ... all 4 one after the other? Do I remove them after the boil? Or remove previos hops as new are added?? I know its a newbie question... How do you do 4 hop introductions? Thanks !

You don't take them out of the pot. The "times" on the hops are how long they are boiled.

What that means is, when you add the first hops (60 minutes), set your timer for 60 minutes. Those first hops will boil for 60 minutes total. If the next addition is at 20 minutes, you add that when there is 20 minutes left on your timer, so that the 20 minute hops boil for 20 minutes. And so on.

Some people strain the wort through a sanitized strainer once cooled, as it goes into the fermenter. I don't bother, as the hops debris and "break" material will all settle out in the end with the spent yeast as part of the trub at the bottom of the fermenter when the beer is finished.

 

[Wayneh]

Leave them all in. I strain 75% when pouring in primary.

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

You don't take them out of the pot. The "times" on the hops are how long they are boiled.

What that means is, when you add the first hops (60 minutes), set your timer for 60 minutes. Those first hops will boil for 60 minutes total. If the next addition is at 20 minutes, you add that when there is 20 minutes left on your timer, so that the 20 minute hops boil for 20 minutes. And so on.

Some people strain the wort through a sanitized strainer once cooled, as it goes into the fermenter. I don't bother, as the hops debris and "break" material will all settle out in the end with the spent yeast as part of the trub at the bottom of the fermenter when the beer is finished.

It should be noted if hes in Washington its highly possible hes using whole leaf hops in which case you should strain...if your using pellets dont bother straining you wont get much out and it will settle like Yooper said..if your using whole leaf hops i would strain it and let some of the wort drain out of the hops, you can speed this along by pressing on them in the strainer with the backside of a sanitized large spoon.

Pretty much every home brew shop here in the PNW has equal varieties of pellet and fresh whole hops.

 

[Cheepbeer]

Thanks all... am using pellets... The last brew I did with Yoopers instructions (which had only 2 hop introductions) I left em in during the boil but took them out when finished (I had them wrapped in little cheesecloth bag).

So when using pellets I can pretty much just toss em in and leave em?? unbagged?

It's these seemingly little simple things that can get confusing sometimes.

 

[Yooper]

It should be noted if hes in Washington its highly possible hes using whole leaf hops in which case you should strain...if your using pellets dont bother straining you wont get much out and it will settle like Yooper said..if your using whole leaf hops i would strain it and let some of the wort drain out of the hops, you can speed this along by pressing on them in the strainer with the backside of a sanitized large spoon.

Pretty much every home brew shop here in the PNW has equal varieties of pellet and fresh whole hops.

I don't strain whole hops either, actually.

Or at least I didn't until I got a different set up and whole hops can clog my pump. Otherwise it doesn't really matter.

 

[Cheepbeer]

The name of my brewing supply here in Walla Walla is "Grapeland". They sell lots of brewing equipment to the many PNW wineries as well, but they have a pretty good Beer store attached as well. We have also a supermarket in Walla Walla that has a whole isle devoted to brewing, fermenting, canning etc. I can get pellets or leaves (buds?)

BTW Yooper that Newcastle recipe you gave me is chugging along fine. its been 7 days today. I will check hydrometer in 7 more days... If it's done then I can just bottle it I suppose... or should I try a secondary carboy and let it sit and condition
awhile?

I prefer the paths of least resistance... and risk.

 

[freisste]

Do I leave the hops in the pot? ... all 4 one after the other? Do I remove them after the boil? Or remove previos hops as new are added?? I know its a newbie question... How do you do 4 hop introductions? Thanks !

As was already stated, you have to leave the hops in the boiling wort. The alpha acids come out of the hops and isomerize based on boiling times. If you added an ounce at 60 min, added a second ounce and 40 min and took the first ounce out, then added an ounce at 20 min and took the second ounce out, you would have little difference compared to just adding 3 oz at 20 min.

Very important to bittering/flavoring that you get the boil times right.

 

[Cheepbeer]

Thanks all... Learning all the time.

 

[Yooper]

The name of my brewing supply here in Walla Walla is "Grapeland". They sell lots of brewing equipment to the many PNW wineries as well, but they have a pretty good Beer store attached as well. We have also a supermarket in Walla Walla that has a whole isle devoted to brewing, fermenting, canning etc. I can get pellets or leaves (buds?)

BTW Yooper that Newcastle recipe you gave me is chugging along fine. its been 7 days today. I will check hydrometer in 7 more days... If it's done then I can just bottle it I suppose... or should I try a secondary carboy and let it sit and condition
awhile?

I prefer the paths of least resistance... and risk.

If it's done, bottle it!