Homemade Whirlpool Machine

[Doc Robinson]

I was having a ton of trouble getting a good whirlpool going in my 15 gallon kettle with a spoon so I decided to build something. I used 1' of copper tubing, a compression fitting, a PVC T-Joint, & two lengths of PVC with "spoons" cut out on each end.

You should see this thing in action...it creates a vicious whirlpool. I can't wait to try it on some wort.

 

[android]

looks pretty sweet, try to get us a pic or two of it in action. i'd also like to see the cone of trub you leave behind.

 

[Catt22]

I suspect that when you stick that thing into near boiling wort, the PVC will soften up and flop around like a cooked noodle. I would suggest using some CPVC as it will withstand the high temps or make the entire thing out of copper instead.

 

[mikejamesnelson]

I wouldn't even think of using that pvc in hot wort. That has problems written all over it!

 

[jgourd]

CPVC would withstand the heat.

 

[Doc Robinson]

I suspect that when you stick that thing into near boiling wort, the PVC will soften up and flop around like a cooked noodle. I would suggest using some CPVC as it will withstand the high temps or make the entire thing out of copper instead.

I'm not going to be using it on hot wort. I recirculate with a CFC back into the kettle until my temp is reached. Then I whirlpool & pump to my fermenters.

 

[wildwest450]

Looks functional. My concern is it will get tighter and tighter with the spinning force and eventually break the tee fitting. Dewalts have a lot of torque.

 

[Catt22]

I'm not going to be using it on hot wort. I recirculate with a CFC back into the kettle until my temp is reached. Then I whirlpool & pump to my fermenters.

In that case it should work just fine. I do the same thing pumping the hot wort through my CFC and back to the kettle. I can pump at a high enough flow rate to get a good whirlpool going without the need for additional stirring, It basically whirlpools during the entire cooling phase.

 

[Doc Robinson]

Looks functional. My concern is it will get tighter and tighter with the spinning force and eventually break the tee fitting. Dewalts have a lot of torque.

Only one way to find out I guess. I think my Dewalt is my single favorite possession. If the house was on fire, I would save my computer and my Dewalt.

 

[Munsoned]

Since it's going to be in use after the boil, I'd be really careful about sanitation, given that it's essentially a cut up piece of plastic going into the wort...

 

[Jawbox0]

You know, it may be a good idea to just go all copper... this way you could just sanitize it at the end of the boil... I may take this idea and run with it when I get a chance...

 

[Douglefish]

In that case it should work just fine. I do the same thing pumping the hot wort through my CFC and back to the kettle. I can pump at a high enough flow rate to get a good whirlpool going without the need for additional stirring, It basically whirlpools during the entire cooling phase.

I don't mean to steal the thread, but Catt22 are you using a 3/8" copper CFC? What pump are you using?

 

[Catt22]

I don't mean to steal the thread, but Catt22 are you using a 3/8" copper CFC? What pump are you using?

My DIY CFC was made from 20 ft of 1/2" inside diameter rigid copper pipe. The pump I have is a Little Giant 3-MD-MT-HC which is very similar to the more common March 809's. I used the 1/2" ID pipe to increase the flow rate for fast cooling and a good whirlpool. It has worked out really well.

I made a fitting that threads into what used to be the thermometer port on my converted keg BK. This custom fitting is the wort return from the CFC and was made from two 1/2" MPT X Sweat adapters and a short section of 1/2" copper pipe to connect them. I drilled one out so that the 1/2" pipe would go through it completely and protrude into the kettle about 3/4" or so. So the fitting has an adapter sweated on one end to accept a ball valve and the other going into the kettle. I simply push a cpvc elbow onto the copper stub protruding into the kettle (actually one 90 & one 45 street elbow back to back to direct the return flow. These are not glued so they can be easily adjusted and/or removed as desired. The ball valve is needed to close the port when the return hose is not connected.