• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Homebrewing on on the cheap?

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Many home brew clubs (HBC) do bulk ordering and then split it up among the members. This is great for base malt. Then they go back to the LHBS to get any specialty malts. Many LHBS will give a discount if you buy a sack of grains and will let you grind it free.

I would see if there is a HBC in your area if you dont already belong to one. Then see if you can get a deal from a LHBS. they are already ordering their malts in bulk so its no big deal to piggy back on that. They make a little and then get you to come back for specialty malts and hops. Everyone wins!
:rockin:
 
I've got to disagree with this. For grain, my LHBS is about 10% less than More Beer and 25-30% less than Northern Brewer the closest other HBS. There's one local HBS that has really high prices and I figure the only people that go there are the ones that don't compare prices, or maybe they just don't care. (see below)
If you buy 10 lb bags you can save even more and not have too many storage issues. More Beer is cheaper if you buy whole sacks. But when you buy bulk, you need a scale and a mill to weigh and crush, so you have more money wrapped up in equipment.

I guess it depends on where you live and having a good LHBS. There are 2 shops within an hour of me, and they both are more expensive than online. So factor in the gas and time to get there and back, and they become much more expensive. I did the math, and buying in bulk would save me about $3-4 a brew. That's not going to make or break me, I spend more than that on ice every brew. Plus I don't have to worry about storage. To each their own, that's what makes home brewing great. :mug:
 
When I had a home brewing friend up in MN, we'd buy a 50 or 100 pound sack of the dry malt extract.
I find prices to be MUCH higher here in Phoenix then I did in St. Paul, MN.
I buy MOST of my stuff locally here in Phoenix, but in the winter when it is cool out, I'll mail order some stuff from my old brew store.
 
I've got to disagree with this. For grain, my LHBS is about 10% less than More Beer and 25-30% less than Northern Brewer the closest other HBS. There's one local HBS that has really high prices and I figure the only people that go there are the ones that don't compare prices, or maybe they just don't care. (see below)
If you buy 10 lb bags you can save even more and not have too many storage issues. More Beer is cheaper if you buy whole sacks. But when you buy bulk, you need a scale and a mill to weigh and crush, so you have more money wrapped up in equipment.
If you brew a lot of the same beer, buying in volume can save a lot of money. I brew something different every time, so I just buy what I need.
My big savings comes from buying hops on line in either 1/4 LB or 1 Lb amounts. I'll re-use yeast and have a yeast bank in jars. I've re-used yeast that I've stored for a year or more. Since I have so much beer and yeast and hops in storage, I needed another refrigerator and the electricity to run it so that's more money spent. Am I really saving anything? Probably not. But......
The beer I make would cost $9 to $15 or more a six pack or more if I were to buy it. ( I brew a lot of clones) so If you figure 50 beers for a five gallon batch, it would cost me $80-$120, plus tax, to buy a similar beer. So I don't really care about buying quality ingredients for my beer.
Bottom line, it pays to shop around and know what everyone else charges, but homebrewing is supposed to be a fun hobby and so spending a little extra isn't a big deal.

You seem to have an unusual LHBS. I hope for your sake they don't go out of business too soon. I find that online, if you shop around you can find one that saves you a little over the other ones. On some items. Often when I have a list of things it might be an order from several sites.

The only things my LHBSs can beat online is heavy items that cost a lot to ship. I have all my equipment that I need at the moment so I don't order much like that. I haven't used Morebeer, but NB dropped off my list a long time ago. There are so many others that are cheaper.
 
You won't really find deals on Amazon.com that compare to searching the online Homebrew supply stores online.
My best advice is to support your local homebrew retailers. They are a treasure trove of supplies, ideas, help and connections to help you every day.
I am sure your local store can hook you up with local brewers in your area and you can easily start brewing with buddies. That really gets to be rewarding fast.
Sharing your hobby with others, exchanging beers and ingredients, sharing purchases and equipment in addition to accessing new ideas will all pay great dividends.
You my even find life-long buddies that share your same passion. That is priceless.
 
The way I look at it, home brewing (no matter the technique) is still cheaper than buying beer at the store!

Matt
 
To be truly on the cheap, you're going to need to spend a little up front for a mill and air-tight storage so you can buy grain in bulk. My mill cost me $100 and I bought two $20 air-tight storage bins from Amazon. The zinger in bulk grain is always shipping cost. Free online shipping offers tend to specifically exclude bulk grain, so the LHBS can usually be competitive here since they order by the pallet. If you have a contact at a local craft brewer, they might be willing to order an extra bag or two and sell it to you at near cost. I am fortunate in that I brew mostly German styles, so my two air-tight bins are perfect for a bag of German Pils and a bag of wheat malt. This has me covered for Kölsch, Gose, Berliner Weiss, Belgian Wit, Münster Altbier, and Dortmünder Export. If I need supplemental malts, like beechwood smoked for a Lichtenhainer - I just grab a few pounds from the LHBS. Just as important for saving $: harvest yeast from your secondary and taste a sample from each yeast starter prior to pitching to make sure it's still true with no mutations or unwelcome neighbors. I've had some yeasts last 8+ generations (WLP644 - Sac Brux Trois) and others taste wonky on the second (WY3944 - belgian wit). YMMV.
 
I gave a friend 4 500ml bottles of homebrew for her birthday on the weekend. Coffee stout, hoppy APA, Munich helles and RIS. Her and her husband went nuts over them.

It occurred to me that the cost of these beers, and these aren't my cheapest recipes at all, was less than the price of a generic greeting card.

Pretty cool to have a hobby that can create something so good at such a small price.

I can brew a 1 gallon batch for less than the price of one bottle of beer at the shop or pub. If it's not a pale ale or IPA, quite a bit less.
 
There is a lot of good advice here. I'll pitch in my bit. I've thought about this a lot as I look at the 100s (maybe thousands by now) that I've spent.

There are two costs - gear, and ingredients.

Go all grain.
Grain, you pay what you need to... try to find a place that sells bulk 50# sacks. There is a malt factory in Great Falls, MT (I'm near Kalispell, MT), and my local homebrew supply store has gotten on thier delivery chain. When they get stocked I can get a bag for $38. Call around to all the places near by, one of them must have bulk grain. Consider your gas to go get it, team up with other brewers and maybe by 200-300# at a time if you need to.

Specialty grains often end up being a wash either online or in the LHBS. 10lbs at a time is sometimes cheaper.

Hops - again, buy bulk as well, it is way cheaper. 1 oz at a time is borderline robbery. The LHBS seems to again be a wash here when you figure in shipping. If you can buy a LOT of online with flat shipping sometimes it beats the LHBS, but remember who always has supplies for you locally - they need the business.

Yeast - start washing it. It isn't that hard, and will save you 3-5 bucks a batch. It'll also gives you a great yeast count to start with. It is the way to go, dive in and do it. Again, it's really not that hard.

Gear - If you want to keep it cheaper, consider being okay with smaller batch brewing. The cost (and complication) goes up exponentially the larger you go. At some point I figured I needed to do at least 10g batches - which is great and all, but it makes brew day longer, more expensive, and more complicated.

If you brew 2.5-3 gallon batches, you can probably do it all on your stove top with a much cheaper 5 gallon kettle, and a smaller cooler MT (or BIAB). 5-6 gallon batches are still kinda small, but tends to require a larger kettle, and also a separate more powerful burner that you probably have to use outside.

Chilling is also easier for small batch, as you can chill in the sink with an ice bath, or a simple immersion coil chiller if you want to invest in that. No need for a CFC or plate chiller and such.

In small batch you don't need a pump.

Keep it simple - herms and rims is neat and all that, but you don't need it to make great beer. Most of the pro's I know still make beer the old fashioned way with a big insulated mash tun and a single infusion.

I'm already geared up for bigger batch brewing, but if I knew what I know now, I might have been a little less zealous about gear, and focused more on the beer.
 
I've got to disagree with this. For grain, my LHBS is about 10% less than More Beer and 25-30% less than Northern Brewer the closest other HBS. There's one local HBS that has really high prices and I figure the only people that go there are the ones that don't compare prices, or maybe they just don't care. (see below)
If you buy 10 lb bags you can save even more and not have too many storage issues. More Beer is cheaper if you buy whole sacks. But when you buy bulk, you need a scale and a mill to weigh and crush, so you have more money wrapped up in equipment.
If you brew a lot of the same beer, buying in volume can save a lot of money. I brew something different every time, so I just buy what I need.
My big savings comes from buying hops on line in either 1/4 LB or 1 Lb amounts. I'll re-use yeast and have a yeast bank in jars. I've re-used yeast that I've stored for a year or more. Since I have so much beer and yeast and hops in storage, I needed another refrigerator and the electricity to run it so that's more money spent. Am I really saving anything? Probably not. But......
The beer I make would cost $9 to $15 or more a six pack or more if I were to buy it. ( I brew a lot of clones) so If you figure 50 beers for a five gallon batch, it would cost me $80-$120, plus tax, to buy a similar beer. So I don't really care about buying quality ingredients for my beer.
Bottom line, it pays to shop around and know what everyone else charges, but homebrewing is supposed to be a fun hobby and so spending a little extra isn't a big deal.

Only 10% less than morebeer? Wow much bigger difference for me.

For me i have 55lb sacks of 2-row for $40 and 50lb sacks of pilsner for $40 (avangard, briess is little more at 41.50/50lb but avangard is just fine). Morebeer is $38+15 shipping northernbrewer is $35+$30 shipping making them 37% and 78% more expensive respectively for 2-row. Online is very expensive with shipping for grains.
 
I used to buy bulk when I lived in MN and had a basement.
HOuses in Phoenix have no basements and no storage area.
 
I bought extract kits my first year and went back in my notes and found the two I rated the highest. Converted it into all grain and bought those ingredients in bulk. This served a dual purpose, it drove the brewing costs down, and I was learning all grain using the same two recipes over and over for awhile. I was able to iron out my process until I consistently hit my numbers. Knowing your equipment is much more important than expensive gear.
 
There is a lot of good advice here. I'll pitch in my bit. I've thought about this a lot as I look at the 100s (maybe thousands by now) that I've spent.

There are two costs - gear, and ingredients.

Go all grain.
Grain, you pay what you need to... try to find a place that sells bulk 50# sacks. There is a malt factory in Great Falls, MT (I'm near Kalispell, MT), and my local homebrew supply store has gotten on thier delivery chain. When they get stocked I can get a bag for $38. Call around to all the places near by, one of them must have bulk grain. Consider your gas to go get it, team up with other brewers and maybe by 200-300# at a time if you need to.

Specialty grains often end up being a wash either online or in the LHBS. 10lbs at a time is sometimes cheaper.

Hops - again, buy bulk as well, it is way cheaper. 1 oz at a time is borderline robbery. The LHBS seems to again be a wash here when you figure in shipping. If you can buy a LOT of online with flat shipping sometimes it beats the LHBS, but remember who always has supplies for you locally - they need the business.

Yeast - start washing it. It isn't that hard, and will save you 3-5 bucks a batch. It'll also gives you a great yeast count to start with. It is the way to go, dive in and do it. Again, it's really not that hard.

Gear - If you want to keep it cheaper, consider being okay with smaller batch brewing. The cost (and complication) goes up exponentially the larger you go. At some point I figured I needed to do at least 10g batches - which is great and all, but it makes brew day longer, more expensive, and more complicated.

If you brew 2.5-3 gallon batches, you can probably do it all on your stove top with a much cheaper 5 gallon kettle, and a smaller cooler MT (or BIAB). 5-6 gallon batches are still kinda small, but tends to require a larger kettle, and also a separate more powerful burner that you probably have to use outside.

Chilling is also easier for small batch, as you can chill in the sink with an ice bath, or a simple immersion coil chiller if you want to invest in that. No need for a CFC or plate chiller and such.

In small batch you don't need a pump.

Keep it simple - herms and rims is neat and all that, but you don't need it to make great beer. Most of the pro's I know still make beer the old fashioned way with a big insulated mash tun and a single infusion.

I'm already geared up for bigger batch brewing, but if I knew what I know now, I might have been a little less zealous about gear, and focused more on the beer.

All great advice. By going all-grain, buying hops in bulk and reusing/harvesting yeast, many of my beers are $20 per 5G batch in ingredients, or even less. Hoppy beers and high ABV beers are usually more, due to higher cost of hops or malt. But a regular 5-6% Amber or Red Ale, or brown ale, saison etc. could be under $20 for 5-6G batch, which is less than 40 cents per pint.

Having said all that, and after thinking about how much less expensive homebrewing is (in ingredients) compared to buying beer at the store or at the bar, the biggest hidden cost is obviously time spent brewing/planning the brew day (recipe formulation, setup, buying ingredients etc), and also cleanup.

I now almost exclusively brew 10G batches instead of 5G, which cuts down a bit (it takes almost the same time to brew 10G as it does for 5G) - also allows me to split batches 2-4 ways and experiment with different additions, hops, yeasts etc., and I sometimes mash in late at night, go to bed and resume brewing in the morning - with electric heater pre-heating strike water while I sleep, so when I get up it's all ready to go. This saves me another hour or slightly more. Still, it takes 3-4 hours for my typical brewday.

Considering the time and effort invested, I am lately rethinking my strategy - for example, perhaps I should buy fresh hops and pay $2 or $2.50 or whatever per ounce, rather than use my year old (refrigerated and vacuum sealed of course) pack of bulk-purchased 1lb of hops which amounted to $1 per ounce, assuming I will finish it at some point before they go bad.

Similarly, I still re-use yeast, but I begin to think that saving $6.99 or whatever and risking some off-flavors due to poor yeast health in a beer that I only get to brew once every couple of weeks or so, may not be wise. I always do the starter, but still.

Malt is cheap, but again one can look for more fancy varieties, like Simpsons Golden Naked, or replacing your US 2-row in your malty beers with Maris Otter, and making saisons with Belgian Pilsner instead of US 2-row. This may almost double the malt price (I pay $1 per lb at my LHBS for US 2-row, and $0.80 if I buy it in bulk - 50lb bag for $40, while Maris Otter is $1.95 per lb), but it's a small price to pay for having an exceptionally tasty beer instead of just an average dull one.

I do water chemistry tweaks for all my beers now - starting with RO water (cost me $3.75 for 15G of RO water for 10-12G batches I usually brew nowadays, plus salts, could be another $1-2 per batch, plus my time of filling jugs with RO water at Glacier ), but I believe it's worth every cent. And let's not forget equipment which is a one-time expense (I had to chuckle while typing this - that's we tell our SHMBO's) but it all adds up as a hidden built-in cost of every batch. I like to keep things fairly simple but still, by brewing/kegging/serving setup has probably $2-3K of capital investment in it.
Over say 100 x 10G batches (equivalent to 200 5G batches), that's "only" $10-$15 per batch, but it still adds up. I suspect most people will never get to brew 200 batches (1,000 gallons) on their equipment - they will either never get there in the first place, or will switch to conicals and some other "upgrades" well before reaching this target.

Once you get to that level, saving a few bucks on a recipe while cutting corners is a bit like renovating your kitchen to make it into a chef's paradise, only to use it to microwave raman noodles, becase of desire to save costs per meal.

Having said all that, brewing can be (and is) a very, very inexpensive hobby.

In cooking a dinner, ingredients can be easily $5-10 per meal. In making mead, the ingredients are probably 4-5 times that of beer. (?)
 
I buy from my local home brew store probably 8 months out of the year in PHX.
I'll buy two or 3 batches worth from Northern Brewer in MN or Windriver in WI. as they have some stuff that I really like and it's reasonably priced.
 
I just bought some bulk hops and it's dirt cheap by comparison to the local shop. I still get my grains, yeast, and other stuff from the local brew shop but man their prices on hops are high. I literally just bought 2 pounds of Warrior hops for 10 dollars from Yakima Valley Hops. Granted they're 2013 crop but they smell and taste great still. I forsee me buying from that company a whole lot in the future.
 
Equipment cost aside, my daily beer intake cost less then my daily coffe intake. All, told including propane, chemicals, and water treatment, I'm at 45 to 70 cents a pint with hop levels/types or premium British malts (MO, GP) driving the high end of the range.

I do buy grain and hops in bulk and repitch yeast but If I ever get motivate, I know I can save $5 per 10 gallons on propane, another $5 on DI water, and maybe another $5 shopping the sales. I'll do this after I start making my coffee at home instead stopping at Starbucks on the way to work :)
 
Only 10% less than morebeer? Wow much bigger difference for me.

For me i have 55lb sacks of 2-row for $40 and 50lb sacks of pilsner for $40 (avangard, briess is little more at 41.50/50lb but avangard is just fine). Morebeer is $38+15 shipping northernbrewer is $35+$30 shipping making them 37% and 78% more expensive respectively for 2-row. Online is very expensive with shipping for grains.

My LHBS is more expensive than Morebeer for bulk 2-row.

:(

50 lb bulk sack from Morebeer shipped to me is $38 + $15.50 shipping = 53.50 for 50lb ($1.07/lb) ... My LHBS charges over $60 for a 50lb sack!

It's completely insane.

I get a slightly better price by buying the 10lb bags which are eligible for free shipping on a $59 order.

e.g. 6 x 10lbs = $63.54 shipped ($1.06/lb)

By the time I've added 2-3 10lb bags of 2 row, some 5lb bags Vienna and Munich, a few lbs of different crystal or roast malts, and maybe some bottle caps or yeast, I've easily hit the free ship limit without having to get 60lbs of 2-row, so I'm still only paying $1.06/lb for my 20-30lb.

And it's delivered my door...
 
My LHBS is more expensive than Morebeer for bulk 2-row.

:(

That's a shame.... some local stores don't get it. The local store here is happy to see folks come in and partake in the hobby. They more or less sell the bulk grain for what they pay to get it in stock. Invariably, I spend another 10-20 bucks every time I go in. Some folks simply aren't good business people.
 
One suggestion I've yet to see is to grow your own hops. It takes a little bit of extra effort, some patience, and space depending on how much you want to grow but it's worth it if you're trying to save money.

I've planted a few rhizomes over the last couple of years and had mixed success (mostly due to mistakes on my part) but 1 plant really took off and produced around 2lbs of dried hops. Considering that a single rhizome cost about as much as couple of 1oz packs of pellets and a healthy planet can produce year after year that's a huge saving. Just the one plant that has really done well for me has already more than paid for itself and the others (which I hope catch up this year) such that it's now just free hops.
 
One suggestion I've yet to see is to grow your own hops. It takes a little bit of extra effort, some patience, and space depending on how much you want to grow but it's worth it if you're trying to save money.

I've planted a few rhizomes over the last couple of years and had mixed success (mostly due to mistakes on my part) but 1 plant really took off and produced around 2lbs of dried hops. Considering that a single rhizome cost about as much as couple of 1oz packs of pellets and a healthy planet can produce year after year that's a huge saving. Just the one plant that has really done well for me has already more than paid for itself and the others (which I hope catch up this year) such that it's now just free hops.

It's not the cost of the rhizomes its all the other costs, and mostly, time and effort. I havent looked that much into whats involved but i read one thread on here where he planted 4 plants, fixed up the whole 2x4 structure and lattice of stringing and after all was said and done he had like 5-6lbs of hops after a year.

You have to water these every day right? And idk what else.

Frankly that seems like WAY more effort than its worth for what $80 in hops?
 
I used to bulk buy online when I saw a good deal, but eventually switched to buying direct from local breweries. As long as you weren't a nuisance, wanting to open all the bags, take small amounts of everything etc they were pretty easy going about it though sometimes I'd just ask for a 25kg bag of pale malt, wheat malt or dextrine and pick up smaller quantities of lesser used speciality grains online because no way are they weighing out 50g of roasted barley for me unless they are using it that day or parting with more than 50-60g of hops when their recipe calls for 5kg and they come in 5kg bags.

I work in a brewery now so get whatever I need from work, even with that benefit I stick to weighing out my stuff when I have it open already for work purposes and not opening fresh bags of hops to take out stupid amounts (they are hard to reseal without some space to fold down) to avoid the other brewers ensuring I have an 'accident' for making the job harder for the next man or even being perceived as contributing to anything other than excellent beer.

FYI anecdotally what would typically be a very good online price for home brewers are in the region of a 400% mark up compared to trade.

Also you'd think it'd be really easy to just stock up for personal use, but in reality you order enough malt to cover just a couple of weeks on the schedule and you adjust recipes to use as many whole bags or proportional fractions of bags as possible to avoid having to open and reseal lots of pointless bags of malt on an already hectic brew day.
 
It's not the cost of the rhizomes its all the other costs, and mostly, time and effort. I havent looked that much into whats involved but i read one thread on here where he planted 4 plants, fixed up the whole 2x4 structure and lattice of stringing and after all was said and done he had like 5-6lbs of hops after a year.

You have to water these every day right? And idk what else.

Frankly that seems like WAY more effort than its worth for what $80 in hops?

Maybe I just got lucky, but it wasn't all that much effort for me. I suspect growing hops is much like everything else in brewing where it can be - relatively speaking - as easy or as complex as one wants it to be. The only part that was really time-consuming was harvesting them, but I'm not about to complain about an afternoon sitting in the sun picking flowers while drinking a homebrew.
 
Maybe I just got lucky, but it wasn't all that much effort for me. I suspect growing hops is much like everything else in brewing where it can be - relatively speaking - as easy or as complex as one wants it to be. The only part that was really time-consuming was harvesting them, but I'm not about to complain about an afternoon sitting in the sun picking flowers while drinking a homebrew.

You just planted then harvested? There was no daily watering or other forms of maintenance?

If you can get away with that then perhaps its worth it.
 
You just planted then harvested? There was no daily watering or other forms of maintenance?

If you can get away with that then perhaps its worth it.

I get by with not much effort on my hops. I do a slow deep watering once or twice a week and occasionally add plant food and do weeding. Hops are weeds after all (useful weeds but weeds none the less) and managed to survive for a long time without any input from humans.
 
Kind of funny. Six pages of comments on this and the OP has not checked in since 2/4/17, on page 1. I think he can be considered to have checked out.


Haha I'm still here. Have been reading as the comments come in. I asked a simple question but didn't expect this much of a response. My rookie status prevents me from giving much input here...just trying to be a sponge instead.

The big takeaway seems to be that extract brewing is the most expensive way to do things. Buying kits seems even more wasteful.

Please...continue with the tips.
 
Back
Top