Most bars that handle import beers will get them from time to time. If you're near a big city, then there should be plenty of bars looking to get rid of them.
Home brewing in Japan
- Thread starter OppamaBrendan
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OppamaBrendan
Well-Known Member
Here is the site for the manufacturer of most of the pubkegs I have seen: http://pubkeg.com/features/#
You can see dimensions on there etc...
I do not keep the threaded valve, I ONLY use them for fermenting as they are not intended to be re pressurized. That being said, I have used them once to dispense 20 L of hurricane cocktails for our Mardi-Gras party at the restaurant - this was under low pressure. I don't think they can be used for force-carbonation so using them for serving seems like much more work than the risk is worth. They accept the same large rubber stopper that I used for my previous fermenters. This should be the same size as most carboys?
Yes I have slipped a heat mat in between the shell and the bottle very nicely! It was a seedling starter heat pad. I used foam insulation on the outside and it was fine during winter. Cooling it may be more difficult, I have sat the whole thing in the tub but the outer shell prevents water from circulating very well. Placing blocks of ice on the lid allowed for the slow trickle of cold water to chill inside however. This year I hope to build a ferm chamber and then this won't be an issue.
Any craft place that has imports should have them, and they cost money to dispose of in Japan so you can get them for free. I have at least one a week at Nawlins in Yokosuka but there will be closer options for you in Yokohama.
You can see dimensions on there etc...
I do not keep the threaded valve, I ONLY use them for fermenting as they are not intended to be re pressurized. That being said, I have used them once to dispense 20 L of hurricane cocktails for our Mardi-Gras party at the restaurant - this was under low pressure. I don't think they can be used for force-carbonation so using them for serving seems like much more work than the risk is worth. They accept the same large rubber stopper that I used for my previous fermenters. This should be the same size as most carboys?
Yes I have slipped a heat mat in between the shell and the bottle very nicely! It was a seedling starter heat pad. I used foam insulation on the outside and it was fine during winter. Cooling it may be more difficult, I have sat the whole thing in the tub but the outer shell prevents water from circulating very well. Placing blocks of ice on the lid allowed for the slow trickle of cold water to chill inside however. This year I hope to build a ferm chamber and then this won't be an issue.
Any craft place that has imports should have them, and they cost money to dispose of in Japan so you can get them for free. I have at least one a week at Nawlins in Yokosuka but there will be closer options for you in Yokohama.
Blue-Frog
The bucket with the valve could indeed be used for bottling- that's what I used it for. The valve is a plastic one that flows, but can clog if you are using whole hops- ask me how I know. It flows slowly. Good for bottles, bad for kegs (it takes forever to fill a keg). The valve action is pretty flimsy as well. I usually just left it open and pinched the hose when filling bottles. It does however eliminate the need for a syphon
and the valve is just slightly above the bottom of the bucket so it leaves the trub behind.
I'll try and take a picture of it when I get home.
If you are near/ in a big city I would definitely trade the bucket for one of those pub kegs if you could source one... or a few bottles of your home brew...
GB
The bucket with the valve could indeed be used for bottling- that's what I used it for. The valve is a plastic one that flows, but can clog if you are using whole hops- ask me how I know. It flows slowly. Good for bottles, bad for kegs (it takes forever to fill a keg). The valve action is pretty flimsy as well. I usually just left it open and pinched the hose when filling bottles. It does however eliminate the need for a syphon
and the valve is just slightly above the bottom of the bucket so it leaves the trub behind.I'll try and take a picture of it when I get home.
If you are near/ in a big city I would definitely trade the bucket for one of those pub kegs if you could source one... or a few bottles of your home brew...
GB
WhoZit,
Is that a 15 Gallon Keg? Is that an steel keg? Did you find that in Japan? I've not seen any around. The biggest I've seen looked to be about 25 liters? (about
6 gallons.)
I'm using corny kegs which hold about 20L, but I'd love something larger for a primary when I need space for the krausen.
GB
Is that a 15 Gallon Keg? Is that an steel keg? Did you find that in Japan? I've not seen any around. The biggest I've seen looked to be about 25 liters? (about
6 gallons.)
I'm using corny kegs which hold about 20L, but I'd love something larger for a primary when I need space for the krausen.
GB
Speaking of kegs and fermentors...
Has anyone tried using any of the stainless sanke kegs as a fermentor? There are some interesting utube videos and tutorials on how to convert a sanke keg into a fermentor:
either the commercial version: https://www.brewershardware.com/American-Sanke-Keg-Fermentor-Kit-with-Thermowell.html
or the DIY version:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lbd-43vPbvY[/ame]
or using a modified sanke tap: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=79326
GB
Has anyone tried using any of the stainless sanke kegs as a fermentor? There are some interesting utube videos and tutorials on how to convert a sanke keg into a fermentor:
either the commercial version: https://www.brewershardware.com/American-Sanke-Keg-Fermentor-Kit-with-Thermowell.html
or the DIY version:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lbd-43vPbvY[/ame]
or using a modified sanke tap: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=79326
GB
I was lucky. It's a sanke with part of the top cut out and converted to corney connectors (not by me). One extra port on top to which I attached an adjustable PRV for pressurized/closed system fermenting. Also has a port near the bottom but I just plug that with a thermometer.
Counter pressure transfer to serving kegs and secondaries, beer gun for bottling.
Counter pressure transfer to serving kegs and secondaries, beer gun for bottling.
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
mooh
Active Member
Speaking of kegs, has anyone ever seen or tried this?
http://makebeer.jp/
I stumbled on this site yesterday. I have 2 20l sanke kegs from some bbqs I organized before. I just forgot to return them, but if this tool works fine, I am thinking of keeping them for kegging.
Best,
Wim
http://makebeer.jp/
I stumbled on this site yesterday. I have 2 20l sanke kegs from some bbqs I organized before. I just forgot to return them, but if this tool works fine, I am thinking of keeping them for kegging.
Best,
Wim
I used to use one. It's a very cheap way to start kegging, even though you're technically renting the kegs with the deposit price. It's expensive for what it is, but depending on how many kegs you want it can be cheaper overall. I used this system until I collected enough corneys to make the change.
mooh
Active Member
Is this tool easy to use? I do not plan on using the kegs for fermenting, but just for dispensing. Is it safe to dispense if you opened them with this tool?
Also, my friend is working for one of the Belgian beer distributors in Japan, and they recently had some beer on Growler kegs and they dont need them anymore. They are 5L I think. But reading up about these kegs, you cannot use any CO2 on them. Has anyone experience with these?
Best,
Wim
There is a latch that keeps the spear from shooting out. If you take the extra steps to remove the latch, it works well.
Removing the latch could be dangerous. Just remember to release the pressure before removing it. This tool helps depressurize the keg by pushing in the poppet when you crank it down.
Removing the latch could be dangerous. Just remember to release the pressure before removing it. This tool helps depressurize the keg by pushing in the poppet when you crank it down.
If you are at all handy, you can open it with tools around the house.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stMPpVAJ8ho[/ame]
If you have access to a drill and either a grinder or a file you can easily make a tool that will make the job less brutal than this video shows and will probably make the gasket last longer too!
Buy two large washers at your local hardware store that are the same diameter as the inside of the sanke assembly. You will also need two bolts and two nuts. The nuts should be slightly bigger than the hole in the washer. Drill a biggish hole halfway between the inside hole and the outer edge of both washers. File two slots in one washer so it fits inside the sanke valve.
To use:
1)Release pressure (push down on ball with screwdriver) Direct flow of stale beer away from you!
2) To unscrew the spear assembly as much as you can. Put the two washers together and assemble them with the two bolts and nuts with the bolts on the slotted side.
3) Place the slotted washer over the sanke valve with the slots mated to the tabs(the second washer will stop it from falling through)
4)Use the two standing bolts to unscrew the valve. I use a big adjustable wrench across the bolts.
5)With the valve unscrewed as far as possible disassemble the washers and using only the slotted washer with a bolt and nut insert the washer and turn it so the second offset hole aligns with the s on the valve.
6)Screw down on the bolt so it depresses the valve and seal as far as you can.
7)Insert long slender screwdriver through drilled hole between the seal and the edge of the valve. You are probing for a channel- slide the screwdriver down the channel and trip the safety. then finish unscrewing the complete assembly.
If you are planning to reuse the valve assembly you *could* remove the safety, but then the spear would probably launch in your face if you ever tried to remove it with pressure still in the keg!
These instructions sound difficult but it's pretty straight forward. Took me a couple of hours to make the tool- it was the first one I made and I made some mistakes. It took me a lot longer to find the instructions on how to trip the safety. Most of the American sanke kegs use a different system that uses a circlip.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stMPpVAJ8ho[/ame]
If you have access to a drill and either a grinder or a file you can easily make a tool that will make the job less brutal than this video shows and will probably make the gasket last longer too!
Buy two large washers at your local hardware store that are the same diameter as the inside of the sanke assembly. You will also need two bolts and two nuts. The nuts should be slightly bigger than the hole in the washer. Drill a biggish hole halfway between the inside hole and the outer edge of both washers. File two slots in one washer so it fits inside the sanke valve.
To use:
1)Release pressure (push down on ball with screwdriver) Direct flow of stale beer away from you!
2) To unscrew the spear assembly as much as you can. Put the two washers together and assemble them with the two bolts and nuts with the bolts on the slotted side.
3) Place the slotted washer over the sanke valve with the slots mated to the tabs(the second washer will stop it from falling through)
4)Use the two standing bolts to unscrew the valve. I use a big adjustable wrench across the bolts.
5)With the valve unscrewed as far as possible disassemble the washers and using only the slotted washer with a bolt and nut insert the washer and turn it so the second offset hole aligns with the s on the valve.
6)Screw down on the bolt so it depresses the valve and seal as far as you can.
7)Insert long slender screwdriver through drilled hole between the seal and the edge of the valve. You are probing for a channel- slide the screwdriver down the channel and trip the safety. then finish unscrewing the complete assembly.
If you are planning to reuse the valve assembly you *could* remove the safety, but then the spear would probably launch in your face if you ever tried to remove it with pressure still in the keg!
These instructions sound difficult but it's pretty straight forward. Took me a couple of hours to make the tool- it was the first one I made and I made some mistakes. It took me a lot longer to find the instructions on how to trip the safety. Most of the American sanke kegs use a different system that uses a circlip.
mooh
Active Member
Thanks for all the info!
Yeah, its fairly expensive, but if I can open and close up those kegs safely with it, it might be worth the buy.
Either way, I am still far from kegging! Still have to retry my first brew.
I am thinking of buying one of those specialty kits of Brewland with the LME and DME and some hops. Anyone used any of their full kits before?
I also looked started reading up about SMaSH brewing. I think that might be my starting point for when I get my own grains! Asahimalt seems like a good place to buy resources.
Best,
Wim
Yeah, its fairly expensive, but if I can open and close up those kegs safely with it, it might be worth the buy.
Either way, I am still far from kegging! Still have to retry my first brew.
I am thinking of buying one of those specialty kits of Brewland with the LME and DME and some hops. Anyone used any of their full kits before?
I also looked started reading up about SMaSH brewing. I think that might be my starting point for when I get my own grains! Asahimalt seems like a good place to buy resources.
Best,
Wim
OppamaBrendan
Well-Known Member
At 8500 for the tool you are a GOOD ways towards getting a corny keg. Think about how you are going to clean that sanke keg before you buy the tool. A corny keg is accessible to cleaning and that convenience in itself should be worth the price difference.
mooh
Active Member
Thanks for the advice Brendan, you are actually right.
I might consider that when I get to that point.
I might consider that when I get to that point.
mooh
Active Member
Hey all,
I was reading through John Palmers book, and I was wondering how you guys connect your wort chiller to the kitchen faucet. I have been looking around in the home center, but I don't seem to find the right solution.
I was reading through John Palmers book, and I was wondering how you guys connect your wort chiller to the kitchen faucet. I have been looking around in the home center, but I don't seem to find the right solution.
OppamaBrendan
Well-Known Member
Does your faucet have threads or is it the smooth type? If the threaded type, try to measure it and get a screw on adapter.
The smooth type is actually easier and you can often find the parts at 100 yen shops. There are adapters for hoses that slip onto the smooth faucet and grip it tight when you tighten the threads. Some come with screws that can also be used to secure to the faucet if you are concerned about water pressure knocking it off. They also come in 2 flavors, one that allows you to attach a hose directly and another that has a male quick-connect. I use the quick connect, and the female connector stays on my chiller line. Most of the time I never take the male connection off my kitchen faucet. Only problem is that the hoses they are usually for are pretty large diameter, so you need to figure out how to adapt that to the chiller coil connection. My workaround is a smaller diameter hose with a section of rigid tubing in it, slipped into the larger tube, and a hose clamp on the whole mess. It splices it good enough but isn't pretty.
The smooth type is actually easier and you can often find the parts at 100 yen shops. There are adapters for hoses that slip onto the smooth faucet and grip it tight when you tighten the threads. Some come with screws that can also be used to secure to the faucet if you are concerned about water pressure knocking it off. They also come in 2 flavors, one that allows you to attach a hose directly and another that has a male quick-connect. I use the quick connect, and the female connector stays on my chiller line. Most of the time I never take the male connection off my kitchen faucet. Only problem is that the hoses they are usually for are pretty large diameter, so you need to figure out how to adapt that to the chiller coil connection. My workaround is a smaller diameter hose with a section of rigid tubing in it, slipped into the larger tube, and a hose clamp on the whole mess. It splices it good enough but isn't pretty.
A friend clued me into a great device that you hook up on the water line into your washing machine. The device allows you to divert it to a garden hose with one knob. You can find them at most home centers, and it has a quick disconnect already installed. Very useful.
mooh
Active Member
I got the faucet with the threads.
I just do not seem to find the right faucet adapter. There are all these garden hose adapters, but none for smaller size hoses. I was hoping to get an adapter just like they use here: http://www.homebrewing.org/assets/i...mpression_fittings_for_hoses_close_up_two.jpg
but I just can't seem to find the right size. My faucets diameter is 1/2 (about 22-24 mm) and the inner diameter of the hose is 10.5 mm (3/8).
I just do not seem to find the right faucet adapter. There are all these garden hose adapters, but none for smaller size hoses. I was hoping to get an adapter just like they use here: http://www.homebrewing.org/assets/i...mpression_fittings_for_hoses_close_up_two.jpg
but I just can't seem to find the right size. My faucets diameter is 1/2 (about 22-24 mm) and the inner diameter of the hose is 10.5 mm (3/8).
Sorry for the delay.
No, not currently near a big city but will inquire when I get out again.
Home brew trade is fine too, but nothing is set up at the moment.
As long as you have them, when I get up and running again,
I will send you a pm.
Hi mooh
Best to take all your bits to the home centre and show them what you want to do. Try to find the older guy. I have 2 home centres near me and if one does not have it the other usually does.
Good Luck
Were you at Hanami a few weeks ago?
Best to take all your bits to the home centre and show them what you want to do. Try to find the older guy. I have 2 home centres near me and if one does not have it the other usually does.
Good Luck
Were you at Hanami a few weeks ago?
Have you thought about where the faucet arm attaches to the base? I have an extra (cheapo) arm for mine. I use an arm with the tip being easy to connect a quick disconnect for garden hoses. I leave the qd permanently attached and just swap out the arm itself at the base.
mooh
Active Member
Hey Spiral,
Thanks for the advice. I will go to the home center here this weekend, hopefully they will try and understand me!
Yeah, I was at the Hanami. Didn't talk to a lot of people, but I heard a lot of stories, drank a load of nice beers, and received loads of valuable advice!
Wish there were events like that monthly...
I have no real confidence in detaching that faucet arm. I'll first try all other options. But thanks for the idea!WhoZiT said:
Just another question... is there a way to build a broken fridge into a fermentation chamber? Would some small CPU fans inside create enough air cooling?
Best,
Wim
Brewing a Rye pale ale as my last brew before summer really kicks in. I purchased some lemon drop hops to play around with, probably gonna do 50 grams at 0 mins and 50 grams dry hopping for a week.
I want to add another hop in there for my bittering addition and potentially a small late addition. I'm looking for something more on the earthy/spicy side. Has anyone used lemon drop hops before in combination with something else? or heard of any good combos?
Side note - Anyone planning on going to the Keyaki Beer Fest? I was thinking of going the 23rd.
I want to add another hop in there for my bittering addition and potentially a small late addition. I'm looking for something more on the earthy/spicy side. Has anyone used lemon drop hops before in combination with something else? or heard of any good combos?
Side note - Anyone planning on going to the Keyaki Beer Fest? I was thinking of going the 23rd.
tektonjp
Well-Known Member
Personally, if I were brewing a rye ale, I would want the rye to be main charecteristic. I'm not sure putting a lemon hop note on top would work all that well. Again, personally, I would err on the lighter side of amounts for aroma and dry hopping with a new/unused hop. In my mind, under-hopped is far more palatable than over-hopped. For example, Sorachi ace is a great hop (lemony) but needs to be used sparingly and with other hops (I found citra to be a good partner) to get the best benefit of it's nature. Too much and it gets soapy real fast. IMHO
If you are looking for earthy, then probably some british hops.
Anyone know if the very nice (and expensive @ 5000￥delivered!)
"Gamma Seals" will work on the similiar looking / similar sized buckets here?
Are there any available here locally, at prices that won't make one sick?
bf
"Gamma Seals" will work on the similiar looking / similar sized buckets here?
Are there any available here locally, at prices that won't make one sick?
bf
Hey Blue Frog,
I didn't get your PM. Try me again. I'm trying to put in an order for malt as well. I'm definitely getting Marris Otter and one other base-malt (2 row perhaps), and maybe Vienna.
As far as the gamma seals go I'm not sure if they'll fit. I had a bunch of buckets- half I brought from N/A and half I sourced here. All of the N/A buckets were the same standard, only a few of the Japanese buckets were the same size....
I sourced some really cool stainless steel buckets from a local scrap yard with gasket lids that I store my malt in. They are dented up, but work great.
I didn't get your PM. Try me again. I'm trying to put in an order for malt as well. I'm definitely getting Marris Otter and one other base-malt (2 row perhaps), and maybe Vienna.
As far as the gamma seals go I'm not sure if they'll fit. I had a bunch of buckets- half I brought from N/A and half I sourced here. All of the N/A buckets were the same standard, only a few of the Japanese buckets were the same size....
I sourced some really cool stainless steel buckets from a local scrap yard with gasket lids that I store my malt in. They are dented up, but work great.
I just picked up two Prima Donna hops plants at Hirata Nursery (Villaggio Branch) here in Fukuoka! They had 4 more if anyone is nearby or interested (I think they were about 700 yen each).
Prima Donna is a dwarf variety supposedly good for both bittering and finishing.
I've also started a few cuttings from the Magnum and Centential that OppamaBrendan sent me (Thanks again!). If they survive I should have some good plants to trade...
GB
Prima Donna is a dwarf variety supposedly good for both bittering and finishing.
I've also started a few cuttings from the Magnum and Centential that OppamaBrendan sent me (Thanks again!). If they survive I should have some good plants to trade...
GB
