drumming102
Well-Known Member
Made a "dip tube" today for my boil kettle and am at an impasse as to whether to drill small holes on the underside or use the dremel and make slits for the pickup.
What do you guys think? I mostly use a hop bag but sometimes throw pellets in without.
(excuse the ****ty solider job. Was my first time)
Parts list (Cost somewhere in the range of $25)
All the tubing and fittings are 1/2" copper
9- 45 degree fittings
1- "T" Fitting
1- 90 degree fitting
1- 5' section of 1/2" copper tubing (gives you extra to make mistakes but can be done with 4" if needed.
1- 1/2" NPT threaded male to 5/8" compression fitting to attach to your weld less fitting for your ball valve
All of the short sections in the octagon are 4" except where the "T" is. I just eyeballed the sizes for the T section. Your measurements will vary on the riser to get to your Ball valve so giving you mine won't help. Just MAKE SURE YOU DRY FIT EVERYTHING (like in the first pic) BEFORE YOU SOLDER! Use a sharpie to mark where your pieces need to line back up to is the easiest way I've found to keep all my pipes straight. Will take a pic of the slits i cut later but they are just evenly spaced every half inch and cut with a cutting wheel in my dremel. Use a bench vise to steady the piece to get the best looking cuts.
What do you guys think? I mostly use a hop bag but sometimes throw pellets in without.
(excuse the ****ty solider job. Was my first time)
Parts list (Cost somewhere in the range of $25)
All the tubing and fittings are 1/2" copper
9- 45 degree fittings
1- "T" Fitting
1- 90 degree fitting
1- 5' section of 1/2" copper tubing (gives you extra to make mistakes but can be done with 4" if needed.
1- 1/2" NPT threaded male to 5/8" compression fitting to attach to your weld less fitting for your ball valve
All of the short sections in the octagon are 4" except where the "T" is. I just eyeballed the sizes for the T section. Your measurements will vary on the riser to get to your Ball valve so giving you mine won't help. Just MAKE SURE YOU DRY FIT EVERYTHING (like in the first pic) BEFORE YOU SOLDER! Use a sharpie to mark where your pieces need to line back up to is the easiest way I've found to keep all my pipes straight. Will take a pic of the slits i cut later but they are just evenly spaced every half inch and cut with a cutting wheel in my dremel. Use a bench vise to steady the piece to get the best looking cuts.