History of Pumpkin Ale

[Fingers]

I write an article on brewing for an online newsletter and I was asked to write something about pumpkin ale. I wanted to touch more on the history and various general techniques (pumpkin spice vs pumpkin itsef) of brewing but I haven't been able to find much on the history of it.

I haven't actually brewed a pumpkin ale myself so my article will be based entirely on research. Through searching I'm able to find lots of recipes that I can analyze for myself to satisfy the technique requirement, but I haven't been able to find anything other than brief anecdotal references to its history.

Can anyone help me out with links for my research? I have to have something together by the end of the month.

 

[Coastarine]

All I can really give you is that this beer claims to be the original pumpkin ale: Buffalo Bill's Pumpkin Ale Is Here And Ready To Be Poured - Beer Advocate

 

[Fingers]

I read a bit from Buffalo Bill's, Coastarine, and they referenced George Washington having brewed a pumpkin ale but it was only a brief reference. By inference they related their ale to the original, but they didn't actually claim the honor. I got the impression that they wanted the reader to assume a relationship.

 

[Nurmey]

I can find references to pilgrims using pumpkin for beer (they didn't have much barley) and apparently George Washington made a nice pumpkin porter but I'll be darned if I can find the sources of such knowledge.

I hope you find some good stuff because pumpkin beer is definitely an North American original.

 

[Edcculus]

I've never done research. Its always semed to me that pumpkin ale is more of a recent invention from creative home/micro brewers.

 

[Bob]

Pumpkin ale as we know it today is entirely an invention of the craft-brewing "revolution".

Pumpkin beers did exist in the early days of the American colonies. The pumpkin was not used as it is used in modern pumpkin beers, however; historically, the pumpkin replaced malt as the source of fermentables. Pumpkin was used out of necessity in the malt-scarce North American colonies, and as soon as malt was available it replaced alternatives and adjuncts.

Here is a method dated to 1771, from the American Philosophical Society, Philadelphia:

Receipt for Pompion Ale: Let the Pompion be beaten in a Trough and pressed as Apples. The expressed Juice is to be boiled in a Copper a considerable Time and carefully skimmed that there may be no Remains of the fibrous Part of the Pulp. After that Intention is answered let the Liquor be hopped cooled fermented &c. as Malt Beer.

There is no cinnamon, no nutmeg, no malt; it's getting sugars for yeast to metabolize from the flesh of the fruit. Hard-up colonists used all sorts of stuff for these sugars, including pumpkin, parsnips, molasses, cornstalks, ad infinitum.



Modern brewers must always remember that many beers we think are historical are in fact decidedly not. We must remember that people didn't necessarily drink beer for the same reasons we do - they drank it because drinking water wasn't safe; it'd make you ill. Yes, the quality of the product was important - that's why they used malt when they could get it, and alternatives only in duress - but the really important thing was that there weren't any illness-causing microbes in the fluid.


I know little of the history of modern pumpkin ales. I can only report that they have no basis (as spiced/fruited malt beers) in history longer ago than maybe 1980.


Cheers,


Bob

 

[bierhaus15]

I came across this when I was doing some research for my recent pumpkin stout...

(The True Story of the First Pumpkin Beer!)
Pumpkin Beer « Beer and Food

And to disagree some, while a historical 'pumpkin ale' may not have traditionally used cinnamon, mace, ginger, cloves... in the form as we know it, we do know that such spices were used in colonial brewing. There are many colonial recipes for ginger beers, spiced hard ciders, spiced metheglin, and other brews that utilize the same spices found in our modern pumpkin ale - and the association between pumpkin and 'pumpkin spices' was well established since the 17th century. Various recipes exist for pumpkin puddings, pies, and torts exist that use said spices - including a recipe from the first American cookbook (by Amelia Simmons).

Therefore, while we do not have a historical 'spiced' pumpkin ale that fits our own style, I believe it is rather foolish to assume that it was only in 1985 that an ale brewed with pumpkin and spices was made. The colonial association between such spices and pumpkin was well established and such spices were already being used in other fermented beverages.

Lastly, while there is undoubtedly a difference between modern brews and historical ones, the difference between them is not necessarily because of a profound change in ingredients or brewing processes, but instead due to a refinement of ingredient proportions, as to fit our modern tastes and purposes.

Here is a book that may help. I’ve read it a few times and it’s pretty interesting – Beer in America: The Early Years--1587-1840: Beer's Role in the Settling of America and the Birth of a Nation: by Gregg Smith.

Also the Library of Congress has a decent collection of early American recipes/brews that are relatively accessible.

Good luck!

 

[Donasay]

also remember as with pumpkin pie filling, many pumpkin beers are not made with pumpkin but rather with other types of squash. So you may want to call it something like brewing with squash.

 

[Bob]

I came across this when I was doing some research for my recent pumpkin stout...

(The True Story of the First Pumpkin Beer!)
Pumpkin Beer « Beer and Food

And to disagree some, while a historical 'pumpkin ale' may not have traditionally used cinnamon, mace, ginger, cloves... in the form as we know it, we do know that such spices were used in colonial brewing. There are many colonial recipes for ginger beers, spiced hard ciders, spiced metheglin, and other brews that utilize the same spices found in our modern pumpkin ale - and the association between pumpkin and 'pumpkin spices' was well established since the 17th century. Various recipes exist for pumpkin puddings, pies, and torts exist that use said spices - including a recipe from the first American cookbook (by Amelia Simmons).

Therefore, while we do not have a historical 'spiced' pumpkin ale that fits our own style, I believe it is rather foolish to assume that it was only in 1985 that an ale brewed with pumpkin and spices was made. The colonial association between such spices and pumpkin was well established and such spices were already being used in other fermented beverages.

I'm afraid I must respectfully disagree.

Nothing you've said proves anything. Provide proof those spices were used in beer brewing at that time in Colonial America. That ginger beer and other spiced potables existed is not evidence that spiced pumpkin beer existed. The extant recipe I quoted above, for example, lacks any mention at all of traditional pumpkin pie spices. I've never seen one that does mention the spices, and it isn't for lack of trying!

Vegetable oil, mustard, vinegar and eggs have existed for thousands of years. That doesn't mean mayonnaise existed before 1756. Unless it can be definitively proved that traditional pumpkin pie spices were used in beer - not flip, cider or mead/metheglin, but beer - all anyone can say is that they were not. That's the difference between fact and conjecture.

Call it foolish if you like; it was and remains responsible historiographical practice. I'd rather practice solid, academically reliable history than haul out the tired old, "They had X, so they must have done Y" straw man. Without proof they used X for Y, there's nothing more than conjecture. Conjecture is, without proof, a useless waste of time and bandwidth.

Lastly, while there is undoubtedly a difference between modern brews and historical ones, the difference between them is not necessarily because of a profound change in ingredients or brewing processes, but instead due to a refinement of ingredient proportions, as to fit our modern tastes and purposes.

True and not true at the same time. Even a cursory examination of the development of brewing's raw ingredients shows the profound differences between historical and modern ingredients. That said, tastes have changed also, and that has had a significant impact. For example, before Wheeler's invention of the drum roaster in 1817, brown malt was a diastatic base malt used in the brewing of porter. After 1817, the grains we know as chocolate, roasted, and most importantly black patent were invented. Make a porter with brown malt as the base and further color and flavor provided by molasses or essentia bina. It will be like no other porter you've ever tasted. Now, did that come from tastes changing or from ingredients changing? For all I know - I haven't exhaustively researched the topic - it's a chicken-egg argument.

Here is a book that may help. I’ve read it a few times and it’s pretty interesting – Beer in America: The Early Years--1587-1840: Beer's Role in the Settling of America and the Birth of a Nation: by Gregg Smith.

I've got a very tattered and dog-eared copy of Smith's book, from which I've gone on to collect most of his sources. It's a lovely book, written in an easy-to-digest manner, and very informative. Amazon usually has it at a good price, and I've seen it on the shelf of my local B&N/Borders stores.

Bob

 

[Fingers]

Thanks for all the information, guys. The article is a general interest piece related to beer and since most of the information I can gather, including that which you guys have kindly furnished, points to little history, I've decided to write my article on Oktoberfest instead.

Thanks for your input.

 

[Coastarine]

Thanks for all the information, guys. The article is a general interest piece related to beer and since most of the information I can gather, including that which you guys have kindly furnished, points to little history, I've decided to write my article on Oktoberfest instead.

Thanks for your input.

Your call, but I've found this thread pretty interesting, namely the real history of pumpkin "ale". Maybe that would be pumpkin wine? I don't know how long this article is supposed to be but I thought that was pretty interesting.

 

[steelerguy]

We must remember that people didn't necessarily drink beer for the same reasons we do - they drank it because drinking water wasn't safe; it'd make you ill.

I have heard and read this statement many times and always find it kind of funny. If you took the unsafe drinking water and boiled it, like they did the wort, the water would be safe to drink. If you then dumped that boiling water into some kind of vessel that could be seal (barrel), it would kill any baddies in the container and then should remain safe for a good deal of time.

I think people drank beer back then for the same reason they do now, it tastes good and makes you feel good. Although they also drank it for nutritional value whereas now, a lot of people don't need all that nutrition, they are storing plenty on their guts.

 

[steelerguy]

also remember as with pumpkin pie filling, many pumpkin beers are not made with pumpkin but rather with other types of squash. So you may want to call it something like brewing with squash.

Yep, all the people who use Libby 100% Pumpkin are really making squash ale not pumpking ale. I actually bought real pumpkins and cooked them up, mashed the flesh up, and then mashed it with my grain. Now that is pumpkin ale! (and a lot of work that I probably won't be able to taste!)

 

[bierhaus15]

Regarding my last post:

If the goal of my previous post was to prove that the beer we call pumpkin ale was indeed brewed in the colonial times and therefore is not a modern concoction, using the same spices that we now use in our pumpkin pies, then I would have had said so.

Instead, I said that while we do not have a traditional recipe for ‘pumpkin ale’ that fits our modern style, it would seem foolish - or - irrational to think that just because a colonial recipe doesn’t exist that shows that Mr. X used Y spices in his beer, that such a product never existed until the 80’s. Too bad the absolutism of historical truth has already been dethroned. Dang!

Concerning Bob's quote:

Provide proof those spices were used in beer brewing at that time in Colonial America…Unless it can be definitively proved that traditional pumpkin pie spices were used in beer - not flip, cider or mead/metheglin, but beer - all anyone can say is that they were not. That's the difference between fact and conjecture.

As for pumpkin pie spices in beer… the Spring 1991 issue of Zymurgy gives us a gem of a recipe from the article The Beers and Breweries of Philadelphia. Molasses beer, from 1704, containing the same principle spices found in pumpkin pie spice.

…the liquor is to be prepared, as before for Beer directed: and to every hundred of Molasses Thirty-six or Forty Gallons of Liquor is to be added. (Mary Eales: one cask, 5 pounds molasses, .5 pints of yeast), and they must be stirred well together till the whole be dissolved, and then up with it into the Copper, adding thereto three pounds of Lignum Vitae (also known as guaiacum, a tropical tree), one of dry balm, and four ounces of Nutmegs, Cloves and Cinnamon together; next clap on the blind Head, Lute fast, and digest 24 hours, when it must be left to run out into its Receiver (working tun), and as it is fit to set to Work, the yeast is to be put in, and leave it to work sufficiently, when it is to be turned up, and suffered to have Age, to mellow , and to become brisk to drink, and it will be excellent Liquor, very wholsom for Man's body.

We each have our opinions, though the same appreciation for good beer. Let’s leave it at that.

 

[Bob]

I said that while we do not have a traditional recipe for ‘pumpkin ale’ that fits our modern style, it would seem foolish - or - irrational to think that just because a colonial recipe doesn’t exist that shows that Mr. X used Y spices in his beer, that such a product never existed until the 80’s. Too bad the absolutism of historical truth has already been dethroned. Dang!

Call it what you like, sir. It's simply the standard to which historian conduct themselves. Without that standard, conjecture would immediately overtake research. It is neither foolish nor irrational; it is the way responsible researchers conduct their craft. Just as you would (presumably) never use corn sugar as half of your fermentables, the responsible researcher does not rely upon anything other than evidence. It's just the Right Thing To Do.

As for pumpkin pie spices in beer… the Spring 1991 issue of Zymurgy gives us a gem of a recipe from the article The Beers and Breweries of Philadelphia. Molasses beer, from 1704, containing the same principle spices found in pumpkin pie spice.

Now that's what I was looking for! Do you see the difference? In your previous post, you made a pronouncement. Here you've provided a documentary source from the period under discussion.

Unfortunately, I'm going to take you to task again. You've taken a quote from Wagner's article without noticing his source, which is London in 1704. We don't know the context of the original quote, whether the 1704 author was talking about the American Colonies, Jamaica or Cornwall. Thus, while it is an interesting recipe, and proof that spiced beer did exist, it still hasn't proved:

1. That spiced beer was consumed in North America
2. That spiced beer was consumed in preference to unspiced malt beer
3. That spices were used in malt beer brewing

And that's really what I'd like to find out. For the life of me, I can't find a single reference in my rather well-equipped historical brewing library to support it.

When I return to my office this afternoon, I'll list some reasoning and research. At the moment I've got to run.

We each have our opinions, though the same appreciation for good beer. Let’s leave it at that.

There are opinions, and there are facts. Our appreciation remains! This is the sort of discussion best conducted over a couple or four pints of ale at a quiet pub, not on the Internet, and I wish we could do so.

Cheers,

Bob

 

[Fingers]

Unfortunately, I'm going to take you to task again. You've taken a quote from Wagner's article without noticing his source, which is London in 1704. We don't know the context of the original quote, whether the 1704 author was talking about the American Colonies, Jamaica or Cornwall. Thus, while it is an interesting recipe, and proof that spiced beer did exist, it still hasn't proved:

1. That spiced beer was consumed in North America
2. That spiced beer was consumed in preference to unspiced malt beer
3. That spices were used in malt beer brewing

In fairness, I wasn't asking about the history of pumpkin beer in North America, just the absolute history. I'm thinking if one wanted to really take off with this, a good place to start would be on history of pumpkins themselves. What area are they indigenous to? Were they traded to any great length across shipping channels? That in itself might answer the question you pose.

 

[lokidog]

So this is really old, but pumpkins and winter squash are really no different - or at least the differences are not really important. The term pumpkin was originally used the way we use the term winter squash. Some historic 'pumpkin' names still exist for these - like the long-necked pumpkin, which is not round but more like a butternut or cushaw. Also, most modern pumpkins are bred for Jack-o-lanterns not eating. They tend to be stringy and taste mealy without much sweetness. Canned pumpkin for pies is made out of a winter squash (but again you could call it a pumpkin and still be correct historically anyway).

Then to say that historical ales made with pumpkin is not pumpkin ale is absurd. What I would say is that modern takes on pumpkin ale is most often pumpkin-pie-flavored ale, and the historic ales with pumpkin are the pumpkin ales. There are modern brews actually brewed with pumpkin - and not just flavored - but it's used as the adjunct and mashed to add sugars to the wort. These also add pumpkin flavor, but it's subtle. Roasting it intensifies this, but then it's a roast pumpkin flavor. I'm making one right now - a sort of Colonial approximation - with no spices except hops.