High Gravity Custom eBIAB System

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Third brew in the books. I crushed a little courser this time and had no problems recirculating the mash, and I still hit my target numbers. Next up is my first 10 gallon batch.

And for the record, my hydra fits in between the coils perfectly.
 
Austin_ said:
Third brew in the books. I crushed a little courser this time and had no problems recirculating the mash, and I still hit my target numbers. Next up is my first 10 gallon batch.

And for the record, my hydra fits in between the coils perfectly.
Click to expand...
Have any idea what your mill gap is? I just got a new Monster Mill 2 and am about to brew 2 more beers on my HG system next week and am still tweaking.
One thing I like about my SS Brewtech 15 gallon kettle compared to my old Spike 15 gallon kettle is that its not as wide but taller so my Hydra gets 100% wort coverage and cools even faster.
Now if I only had an option for a pulley. I'm brewing under a patio cover and I thought about using a ladder to hillbilly a pulley.
 
Beer-lord said:
Have any idea what your mill gap is? I just got a new Monster Mill 2 and am about to brew 2 more beers on my HG system next week and am still tweaking.
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I set my MM2 to a credit card gap this go-around, which is what I used for my old traditional mash setup.
 
I did the same and the crush looks good. I'll know more later this week but I may tighten it a bit more. For now I have it set as a tight squeeze for the credit card where the rollers move when I push the card in and out with a tiny bit of force.
However, I paid a bunch to have a sack of Mecca Grade Lamonta malt that I'm trying next so technically, I can't compare the efficiency to what I'm use to but I just can't wait to try this malt out.
 
Well I get to put my order in this week and I’m planning on going the Utah Biodiesel basket route. If anybody has purchased one for the 15 Sstech could ya let me know specifics I’d like to order it before the kit shows up. Or dimensions of the basket that comes with it would probably work. Thanks
 
I'm doing my second brew on my system and another one on Friday but once again, as the mash was nearing 45 minutes in, the temp started to climb to 158 and the mash was almost overflowing. I didn't feel any clumbs but I did have the Riptide pump going with a bit less flow than last time. Not sure why this has happened both times.
Glad I was close by.
 
Beer-lord said:
I'm doing my second brew on my system and another one on Friday but once again, as the mash was nearing 45 minutes in, the temp started to climb to 158 and the mash was almost overflowing. I didn't feel any clumbs but I did have the Riptide pump going with a bit less flow than last time. Not sure why this has happened both times.
Glad I was close by.
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Malt conditioning is the ticket. Leaves hulls intact and less flour to gum it up. Also the riptide should really be restricted to a just a bit more then a trickle during the mash at least that's what I had mine at last time.

https://www.brewersfriend.com/2010/01/16/malt-conditioning/
 
Well I did do a pretty good crush because I'm way more efficient than expected on this brew. I also noticed less trouble this time as I had a smaller flow but it was more than a trickle.
I'll definitely reduce it when I brew again on Friday.
Thanks!
 
Beer-lord said:
Well I did do a pretty good crush because I'm way more efficient than expected on this brew. I also noticed less trouble this time as I had a smaller flow but it was more than a trickle.
I'll definitely reduce it when I brew again on Friday.
Thanks!
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I keep going back and forth on this idea, but the Utah Biodiesel basket probably would help with this. Just get a 400 or even a 600 mesh filter and I think this would never be an issue with the recirculating probably even wide open. Because the bags are much much finer then the 400 mesh/micron filters. However I do like the fact that I can pulley just the bag out without the basket and it drains more of the wort out of the bag and it can be squeezed if you deem necessary. I do think you can have the guys at utah biodiesel fabricate a plate that you can use to squeeze the wort out of the basket but for my setup would be pretty tough to use. I think with the 400 mesh basket you could still probably crush super fine and recirculate fine...maybe haven't tried this.
 
Well it’s official I’m a future HG eBIAB brewer got the 15 gal SS kettle and riptide kit ordered. Now the waiting game. I’m still planning on the Utah basket but I’ll get that ordered when the kettle shows up so I can decide on dimensions. Any thoughts on a good first beer? This will be my first go, aside from helping a buddy a couple of times with extracts.
 
I kept my first brew with the HGB setup as simple as possible and just concentrated on operation though, it's very simple. I went with an Amber Ale of about 5.5% and it came out fine.
I kind of like the basket that comes with the kit. But if you get one for the SS BrewTech, please post back here as I'm at least interested in what you think of it.
 
Lucky2be said:
Well it’s official I’m a future HG eBIAB brewer got the 15 gal SS kettle and riptide kit ordered. Now the waiting game. I’m still planning on the Utah basket but I’ll get that ordered when the kettle shows up so I can decide on dimensions. Any thoughts on a good first beer? This will be my first go, aside from helping a buddy a couple of times with extracts.
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Congrats!! My first brew on the HG system was the Deception Cream Stout from the Ale Recipes forum. It might be on page 2 or 3 by now, but it's a fantastic recipe. I added toasted coconut in primary for a few weeks and threw it on nitro and it's one of my best beers to date.
 
Thanks guys really excited, next question I’ll throw at ya would be chillers. I’ve only been around a counterflow and I’m thinking I want to try the therminator. My only concern would be it clogging any countermeasures normally used or is it not an issue? Obviously I didn’t google it or anything yet just a quick thought I had reading your reply. Any thoughts? In the mean time I’ll do a bit of research on it as well.
 
Lucky2be said:
Thanks guys really excited, next question I’ll throw at ya would be chillers. I’ve only been around a counterflow and I’m thinking I want to try the therminator. My only concern would be it clogging any countermeasures normally used or is it not an issue? Obviously I didn’t google it or anything yet just a quick thought I had reading your reply. Any thoughts? In the mean time I’ll do a bit of research on it as well.
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I have the 15g SS and riptide pump. I thought the same about clogging in the Thermolator and bought the Jaded Cyclone to avoid this. I recirculate/whirlpool using the riptide to chill and find the limiting factor to be the kettle drain clogging on a heavy hop bill and have since went to a hop spider. I kind of wish I would have went with a jaded IC instead just for simplicity. My plan was to be able to whirlpool/chill and leave a nice cone of break/hop matter before transferring to the fermenter but it really hasn’t worked. My WP return is a spincycle wp arm. I’m sure there may be some tips/tricks I don’t know about though.
 
I use the large z CFC from Adventures in Homebrewing, and have the SS brewtech kettle that uses the trub dam. The only time I've clogged up was when I threw a bunch of cinnamon sticks in at flameout, but the Spincycle whirlpool return with the trub dam does the trick for me.

I considered the therminator but I ended up going counterflow and I've only had good experiences so far.
 
I use the Jaded Hydra and have used one since before going to my E system. It works very well with a whirlpool port and my Riptide. Though I've always hopped commando, since going electric I've used a SS hop basket as I thought the trub dam on my SS Brewtech kettle would clog. Not sure if I'm losing IBU's but it do stir the hops often.

On another note, I emailed Dave yesterday as I've had 3 brews on the new system and as I mentioned previously, I've had a few temp spikes that I caught in time and my mash water level rose to the top of my kettle. It seems to me that even playing with the Riptide and the ballvalve I can't get it balanced enough. Dave wonders about the lid assembly and I may be getting one of the older versions to try though he said he's good 100's of these newer ones out there and no problems. The Brew Bag is very tight and maybe my crush is too fine (don't think so really) so I may try a coarser bag. I may also try what's already been suggested and misting the grains before I mill them though I'd rather not.
Still, I'm loving this system and its simplicity and power.
 
Mine clogged with the SS trub dam while WPing with 12oz of pellets in the kettle. That said, I may have avoided it by dialing the riptide down.
 
For those who just recently purchased your HGB system, does the top recirc inlet under the lid look like this? In an earlier post, someone showed their lid in action and it doesn't look like mine. This is for a 15 gallon SS Brewtech lid if that makes any difference.
IMG_0880.jpg
 
Beer-lord said:
For those who just recently purchased your HGB system, does the top recirc inlet under the lid look like this? In an earlier post, someone showed their lid in action and it doesn't look like mine. This is for a 15 gallon SS Brewtech lid if that makes any difference.View attachment 597114
Click to expand...

Mine is like yours. I purchased on Black Friday last year. Earlier units used a plastic sprinkler head type nozzle.
 
Beer-lord said:
For those who just recently purchased your HGB system, does the top recirc inlet under the lid look like this? In an earlier post, someone showed their lid in action and it doesn't look like mine. This is for a 15 gallon SS Brewtech lid if that makes any difference.View attachment 597114
Click to expand...
Mine looks exactly like that one.
 
My HGS is an original model here's a picture of what the spray head under the lid looks like. After each mash, I unscrew the nozzle and clear the plastic filter of grain bits that escaped the bag. Ideally with the pump running the wort should leave the kettle and return to the pump as quickly as it enters the kettle. What @Beer-lord describes on his new system sounds like that's not the case. The rising wort level has to be caused by the wort not leaving the kettle as fast as it's being pumped in.

I know on my system I run the Chugger pump wide open and once it starts pumping it causes the wort to foam up. And that can add a few inches to the wort level even though the kettle return is keeping up with the pump. I hope this is helpful.

spray-nozzle-1sml.jpg
 
I emailed Dave on Friday about my problem and today got the 'older' piece that looks like what Screwy shows in post #143. Now that's above and beyond. I was willing to pay for it too. Whatever I can't get from my LHBS, I will buy from HGB now.

I also ordered a Wilser bag to try (already had an older, smaller one) and plan 1 more brew with my system before changing the lid spray head and a coarser mill and more tweaking of the pump. If others can do it, I think I should so maybe part of the problem is me.
 
BrunDog said:
My recommendation is you do not spray wort like this. This aggressively aerates (oxygenates) the wort. It may already be O2 saturated but no sense ensuring it. Plus foam and clogging... I don’t think there is any upside.
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Believe me, it's been fine. Once you learn how to control the wort levels the foam is never an issue. Remember I've been brewing a lot on this system for over 4 years now. Don't fear the foam. The oxygen is removed during the boil, only to be put back prior to pitching the yeast. The only clogging I ever have is when an errant bit of grain escapes the bag and lodges in the spray nozzle prefilter or a quick connect valve. But cleaning the prefilter after each brew eliminates that issue.

My 15-gallon setup maxes out with 23 pounds of grains and 12 gallons of mash water and produces 10-gallons of 6% beer. When a grain bag shows signs of wear, has holes large enough to let bits of grain sneak through, I put it inside another bag. Using a double bag shaves some cost off having to buy new bags. I started doing this when waiting for new HG bags to be delivered and had zero problems with it.
 
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I've never thought of double bagging any BIAB I've done thru the years but in my new system, I would think it would make my problem worse. I have to believe my problems are crush and control of the wort levels but in the link I posted earlier, many say they've milled coarser and lost no efficiency. I've been getting mid 70's with my old system and I'm happy with that. Dave had mentioned in an old video their system should get the mid to upper 60's but adding a bit more grain can always make up for it.

One other thing I wonders was using my whirlpool port to recirculate. It's at the bottom on the outside of the basket so I'm not very sure how that would work out. After thinking further, I dropped that idea.
 
BrunDog said:
I’m sorry, but that is not correct. The oxygen oxidizes the wort irreparably. No doubt your beer is good, as many brew with normal non-LODO techniques successfully. My suggestion is that you don’t forcefully aerate.
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Could you please direct me to a reputable source cooberating your claim?
 
Dave has thousands of systems across the country using this setup as well as Clawhammer Supply, UniBrau and others. I'd think these systems wouldn't be putting out good beer if there were problems but I admit, it's all above my pay grade.
I love my system and plan on using it as is and as long as it's making beer I like, I'll keep doing it.
 
Oh, dang it, it's the LoDO crown here to take the fun out of everything...:)

I used to use the sprayer that came with the system, but found that it was creating too much foam for my liking (overflowing foam from the side of the lid) so I connected a barb fitting and a length of silicone tubing to recirc below the water line of my "average" strength beers. I haven't noticed a difference in quality, but then again, I also haven't done too many cellar beers to compare.
 
tmendick said:
Oh, dang it, it's the LoDO crown here to take the fun out of everything...:)

I used to use the sprayer that came with the system, but found that it was creating too much foam for my liking (overflowing foam from the side of the lid) so I connected a barb fitting and a length of silicone tubing to recirc below the water line of my "average" strength beers. I haven't noticed a difference in quality, but then again, I also haven't done too many cellar beers to compare.
Click to expand...
I've been thinking about doing something like that myself. I have a whirlpool port that is almost at the bottom of the kettle and wondered it that would be a problem. I think it might push the grain to tight and cause problems but need to think about it further.

@BrunDog-man, reading that link almost takes the fun out of brewing for me. It almost seems like a full time job and going that deep is just not what I want in my brewing life. But, I can see someone has put a lot of time and work into LODO.
 
ScrewyBrewer said:
Here's a very good read too....
Click to expand...

You asked me for a source. If you had a reference you felt credible, why ask?

It’s your beer and you are entitled to brew how you like. Great thing about this hobby. I simply suggested you don’t forcefully aerate. I don’t follow LODO, but I also know that my opinion on how beer tastes doesn’t change the science behind brewing.
 
BrunDog said:
You asked me for a source. If you had a reference you felt credible, why ask?

It’s your beer and you are entitled to brew how you like. Great thing about this hobby. I simply suggested you don’t forcefully aerate. I don’t follow LODO, but I also know that my opinion on how beer tastes doesn’t change the science behind brewing.
Click to expand...
I love the passion of homebrewers! Best folks in the world!
 
BrunDog said:
You asked me for a source. If you had a reference you felt credible, why ask?

It’s your beer and you are entitled to brew how you like. Great thing about this hobby. I simply suggested you don’t forcefully aerate. I don’t follow LODO, but I also know that my opinion on how beer tastes doesn’t change the science behind brewing.
Click to expand...
Didn’t mean to offend or challenge you just the opposite. I only found my source after your post got me thinking again. I love tinkering with my HG system. I haven’t invested much effort into the possible adverse affect oxygen can have on beer.

An avid interest in brewing science is a good thing. Whether it be LoDo fermentation or recipe creation. Trying new things and sharing our experiences with others is always a good thing.
 

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