High Gravity Custom eBIAB System

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goofiefoot

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I'd like to share my experience with High Gravity supply, so I'm starting this thread fresh my last thread, mostly for future reference, and ease of search by company name:

Original thread for reference

I sold my 3-vessel propane brew rig to fund an all-electric system. I have a dedicated 50A circuit left over from my kitchen remodel, and will be dropping a new box into the garage for this system and to run a welder (not at the same time, of course).

I'm in the middle of a complete garage overhaul, with the goal of having more room to brew, plus build, weld, work on automobiles, etc. All of this is coming together, and once my dad helps me drop the 240V in, I should be able to get this up and running.

I've been eyeing the High Gravity system in its base form for some time, as it ticked most of my boxes. I knew I wanted an all-in-one system, and BIAB should work for my needs. I hope to save some time during brew day, so knew I wanted as much power as possible to speed heating times, and I wanted the capacity to brew 10-gallon batches.

Looking over the list of parts included standard on the kit, and realizing I might want to add or change a few bits, I called Dave to check on customization options. He pointed me to the non-pot version of the kit, and told me they'd build it, ready to assemble and use, with whichever kettle, pump, ports I wanted. It was then I realized I could truly get exactly what I wanted - more capacity, more power, more options.

Based on Dave's input, I put together an order:

Electric BIAB 240V System (without pot)
  • Controller: Wort Hog EBC-130
    Power Cord Plug Type (Required): 4 Prong Plug (NEMA 14-30P)
    Power Cord Length (Default is 6'): 6 ft. Standard
    Pump: Use own existing pump
    BoilCoil Size: BoilCoil 20 5000W

20 Gallon SS Brewtech Kettle

Blichman Riptide Pump

SpinCycle 14" Whirlpool Return

I also indicated I'd like SS camlock connectors, rather than the polysulfone connectors included with the kit. I sent the list over to Dave to confirm it all made sense, then placed my order. The team had the system built, shipped and on my doorstep very quickly, all for just a few hundred dollars more than the base system.
 
Unboxing the system


Truly an all-in-one system, everything was shipped in the original kettle box, with most of the custom equipment easily fitting within the kettle. This will be great for storing everything between brew days.

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Taking everything out and ensuring all pieces were present was simple, as the small bits were contained well in segmented wrapping. The control box, wiring and Boil Coil were thoughtfully placed in the kettle to minimize damage during shipping. The BrewBag fits well in the kettle, and the kit came with a SS s-hook to lift it. I purchased a rope hoist to lift it from the ceiling in the garage.

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The kettle lid had already been fitted with the recirculation port and camlock connector. The kettle itself was drilled for the temperature sensor and Boil Coil, aside from the outlet, thermometer (which also came with dummy stoppers in case the port wasn't used), and the whirlpool port near the top.

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Assembly of the kettle components was easy due to the weldless fittings and precise placement of the drilled holes.

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The RipTide pump is gorgeous, and I'm really looking forward to putting it to use. It's got quite a heft to it, and it looks to be easy to take apart and clean.

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I plan to build a cart for the system to be able to roll it around the garage for it's different tasks for brew day. Once I get the 240V outlet in place, I'll do a test run or two, then document a brew day.
 
You just made my day! Thanks for the info!

Glad I could help. I found little recent information on High Gravity, which was surprising, given the great customer service and options. I hoped this might give some reference to those like me looking for just the right options.


What are you going to use to keep the bag off the element?

Nothing for now. Dave swears up and down they tested the bag against the element with no poor outcome. Worst case, I'll buy another bag and find a solution.

How is the EBC 130 different than the EBC-SV?

It's newer? I'm not certain. Hoping smarter folks around here have an answer for you.
 
My dad came up on Saturday and helped me install the 240V service in the garage, and we performed a successful test run on the system. Later that day, I went out and bought ingredients for a impromptu 10-gallon brew session - my first brew in well over 2 years!

I set up temporarily on my garage cabinets, which I found too tall for comfortable access, but I got it done. I'm building a cart for the kettle which will accommodate the pump and chiller, and sit at a better height.

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The Auber controller is pretty simple to master, so I was able to get up and running quickly. My tap water was 84° and it took 13.5 gallons 28 minutes to reach the 157° strike temp.

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I bought a Cereal Killer mill with some birthday money, since I read a finer crush does better for BIAB applications. Well, yeah! My typical 3-vessel rig efficiency was 70-75%. With this rig, the batch hit 88% efficiency (to paraphrase Doc Brown, you're gonna see some serious ****). The mill came with a handle, which I removed after about 30 seconds of turning, and attached my drill. Much better!

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Mash went fairly well, though it did get stuck at the very end (88% efficiency has its drawbacks). When I went to use my new block and tackle to lift the bag out, I discovered another reason to lower my kettle - there wasn't enough room in my 8' ceilings to lift the bag clear of the wort. Whoops. I muscled it out of there, and won't have that problem in future brews.

Going from mash to boil was pretty quick, though I didn't time it this go 'round. The controller knob made quick work of controlling the hot break without drama, and the adjustable alarm for getting close to boil temp kept me alert. I maintained a good, rolling boil for 60 minutes at 70% power.

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I neglected to take any more photos of my session, but it all went fairly well. My 3/8" counterflow chiller is certainly the weak point in my system now, especially with such high tap water temps. I have a pre-chiller setup I didn't use this time, so I got the wort down to 90° and let it sit in the fermentation chamber overnight to get down to pitching temps.

The Riptide pump is amazing! And so quiet! Coming from a typical march pump (along with propane jet burners), my brew days were super-noisy. While I didn't have any going this time, I'm looking forward to actually listening to some music and having non-shouting conversations while I brew. Go figure.

I am extremely pleased with my purchase, and looking forward to my next session, which I plan to start working on brew day time efficiency. Stay tuned.
 
Congrats on a successful brew day. Couple of things to consider for next time. One, fine crush works just great for single vessel brewing, but not single vessel brewing with recirculation. There are entire threads in here dedicated to the topic and the associated best practices.

Two, I would wager you don't need to lower your kettle, but instead you need to change where you attach to your bag. Make a short loop of cord about 10 inches or so. Bunch the top of the bag together, wrap the loop around it a few times and when you get to the end of the loop pass one end of it through the other. Hook up your hoist and lift! Attach the loop as low as you can on the bag and you'll have zero issues.

FWIW, I used to lift a bag up with an anchor point only about to feet or so above the top of the kettle. It wouldn't completely clear the kettle, but it did get it out of the wort.
 
Congrats on a successful brew day. Couple of things to consider for next time. One, fine crush works just great for single vessel brewing, but not single vessel brewing with recirculation. There are entire threads in here dedicated to the topic and the associated best practices.

Two, I would wager you don't need to lower your kettle, but instead you need to change where you attach to your bag. Make a short loop of cord about 10 inches or so. Bunch the top of the bag together, wrap the loop around it a few times and when you get to the end of the loop pass one end of it through the other. Hook up your hoist and lift! Attach the loop as low as you can on the bag and you'll have zero issues.

FWIW, I used to lift a bag up with an anchor point only about to feet or so above the top of the kettle. It wouldn't completely clear the kettle, but it did get it out of the wort.

Thank you for the words of wisdom! I love that I can learn new things, even 10 years into the hobby.

I'm still happy with my mill and higher efficiency, even though I know I'll be adjusting it to my setup. The fact that the mash stuck at the very end tells me I just need to do a little tweaking on it.

At 6'3", I still had to use a step ladder to comfortably dough in, so I'd want to lower the kettle regardless. The cart I'm building will also serve for pump and chiller storage, and fits into my long-term garage organization project, where many items are on casters or serve multiple functions. Plus, I like building stuff.

I meant to record my recipe for my first brew, for those interested. It's called Bevo Balzac (say it out loud, and giggle), and I originally created it for a buddy's UT tailgate, for which he requested a beer that "was easy to drink, that's burnt orange, and tastes like victory."

Bevo Balzac Pale Ale
Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: Nottingham
Batch Size (Gallons): 10
Original Gravity: 1.048
Final Gravity: 1.012
IBU: 38
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 7.3 SRM
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 10-14
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 0

Ingredients
Amount Item Type % or IBU
14.00 lb Marris Otter
5.00 lb Vienna
0.50 lb Crystal 20
0.50 lb Crystal 60

1.00 oz Columbus (60 min)
1.00 oz Columbus (10 min)

3 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) Yeast-Ale

Mash at 152° for 60 mins

** Based on 70% brewhouse efficiency (mine was much higher for this batch, so I'm curious about how it turns out)
 
Dude. I just purchased this exact same system. 20 gal SS brewtech as well. I have some advice for you if you want to either lose the bag altogether or use a bag that is within a basket in pot

I have a 13” false bottom that bobby makes at brewhardware.com. And just order the 4” legs and it sits perfectly in between the boilcoil and just high enough to clear the element. Then you can drop in a basket, stick your bag into that basket and you’re good.

OR, and this is what I did. Order one of these bad boys from Utahbiodieselsupply and the basket replaces the bag completely!

BIAB-9inchx13deep3inchfeetA.jpg


Also I have a question about your boil, are you getting a good rolling boil? I do but I never feel the need to dial back my percentage while in boil mode. My PID is always at 100% during the boil

Here’s my set up, the shot of the mash shows you my current basket which is just a bayou classic fryer basket with my bag inside it. Utah bio is custom building my new filter basket. Also you can see that false bottom I told you about from brewhardware and how it perfectly sets above the element

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Zmann, it seems great minds think alike! I hope all is well with you in Corpus. I spent some time in Rockport volunteering after the storm, and it's a heartbreaking sight.

I was able to easily achieve a rolling boil and maintain some boil action down to 40-50% power. 70% seemed the sweet spot of rolling boil. You may check connections and test your outlet for full voltage.

Thanks for the tips on the baskets and bottom. At 4" tall there's about 3-4 gallons of liquid below the level of grain, and depending on the width of the basket, there's more void around the edges. Are you able to brew successful 5 gallon batches? I went with the 20 gallon kettle to get the most out of the capacity, and I like that the bag allows maximum contact between water and grain. That said, I do see the bag as the potential fail point in the system, and realize the recirculation helps with grain contact. I'd love some further insight.
 
I haven’t tried a 5 gal batch yet. But it did very well on the 10 gal batch. For 5’s I guess I’ll just toss the bag in there like you did.

Maybe the way to do it is build your filter basket from Utah to fit inside the boil coil and go all the way to the floor. However I just don’t ever see myself doing 5 gal batches ever again. If anything I may do a few 15 gal batches as our kettles actually hold 22 gals.

Dude thanks for coming down man!! It’s been hell! I have spent my time in Port Aransas. Looks like a bomb went off there.
 
Hoping to resurrect this thread. Have either of you had success with a 5 gallon batch, or is the 20 g too large?
 
I am a week away from pulled the trigger on the 15g version.

Did they add a port for the spin cycle?
 
I would think the 15 gallon would be about perfect for that.
I think you are right. Given my time restraints, I predominately do 10g batches now, so I want the 20 g. But I would prefer to still be able to do a 5 gal. batch every now and then. It seems to me that I should be able to by just using the bag and no basket or false bottom. In reading about the BoilCoils, they are apparently super-ULWD, so having the bag touch shouldn't be a problem. I'm just hoping someone can confirm.

And, yes, it appears that Dave will add a port for the Spin Cycle. I just emailed Dave asking him to price out basically the same system above. Getting excited!
 
I think you are right. Given my time restraints, I predominately do 10g batches now, so I want the 20 g. But I would prefer to still be able to do a 5 gal. batch every now and then. It seems to me that I should be able to by just using the bag and no basket or false bottom. In reading about the BoilCoils, they are apparently super-ULWD, so having the bag touch shouldn't be a problem. I'm just hoping someone can confirm.

And, yes, it appears that Dave will add a port for the Spin Cycle. I just emailed Dave asking him to price out basically the same system above. Getting excited!

Dave is amazing!!!!
Sent him an email yesterday, waiting on word back.
I am using the basic kettle, but want to add the spincycle, and a side pickup tube.
Down the road I will change my hop basket,and maybe move from the bag in the basket, to a stand alone basket.
 
Dude. I just purchased this exact same system. 20 gal SS brewtech as well. I have some advice for you if you want to either lose the bag altogether or use a bag that is within a basket in pot

I have a 13” false bottom that bobby makes at brewhardware.com. And just order the 4” legs and it sits perfectly in between the boilcoil and just high enough to clear the element. Then you can drop in a basket, stick your bag into that basket and you’re good.

OR, and this is what I did. Order one of these bad boys from Utahbiodieselsupply and the basket replaces the bag completely!

BIAB-9inchx13deep3inchfeetA.jpg


Also I have a question about your boil, are you getting a good rolling boil? I do but I never feel the need to dial back my percentage while in boil mode. My PID is always at 100% during the boil

Here’s my set up, the shot of the mash shows you my current basket which is just a bayou classic fryer basket with my bag inside it. Utah bio is custom building my new filter basket. Also you can see that false bottom I told you about from brewhardware and how it perfectly sets above the element

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I'm liking this setup. Anyone here attach a hose or something to the lid during mashing to prevent splashing? I'm shooting for lodo as much as possible.
 
I'm liking this setup. Anyone here attach a hose or something to the lid during mashing to prevent splashing? I'm shooting for lodo as much as possible.

It's all 1/2 threads, so you should have no problem. However, if you want to go LoDo you probably wont want to do any recirculation anyway.
 
However, if you want to go LoDo you probably wont want to do any recirculation anyway.

Actually, a large percentage of those who practice low DO brewing methods recirculate during the mash. It's actually recommended so that rests at several temperatures can be achieved for maximum conversion.

The thing that isn't necessarily recommended is single vessel brewing. It's very difficult, some would say impossible, to perform the dough in step slow enough when lowering the basket or bag into the water so as not to exceed the rate of reaction of the oxygen scavenger. Many still use this method, so I'm not saying you can't do it. It just adds a layer of difficulty.
 
UPDATE: pulled the trigger on the 20 g SS with the 20 gal (5000W) boilcoil, controller that supports a second pump, riptide and spincycle. Dave had it to me in about a week (boilcoil and riptide came directly from Blickmann and arrived a day earlier)! I am going to attempt to use my old chugger for a closed cooling system in an attempt to preserve some water (i.e., load up my old cooler with reusable ice packs and pump from cooler through immersion or plate and return to the cooler...not sure it will work, but a fun experiment), which is why I upgraded to the two pump controller. Even if it doesn't work, it will be nice to have the flexibility to move to a two vessel if I want. Can't wait!

Does anyone have a stand/table they prefer? I was thinking for the time being I could put it on top of my chest freezer (with a silicone pad between) when in use.
 
I just wanted to chime in regards to High Gravity, and Dave - I just had my first run with my 3 vessel custom system. Went with SS Brewtech kettles, EBC-330 Panel, Boilcoils, with a few extras thrown in.

Everything was great minus one fault - One of the temperature probe cables was faulty which was hooked up to my mash tun, leading to a volatile PV display temp. This led to the automatic mash control and cycling of the wort pump to not work as intended. I was able to get around it by plugging the wort pump into an outlet separate from the panel.

While a little bit of an annoyance, I was still able to brew on the great system by just bypassing that temp probe and monitoring temps manually. I emailed Dave regards my issue (on a sunday evening no less), who gave me some troubleshooting ideas saying he would send out new parts the next day (today).

Overall, I am extremely pleased with my system and Dave's responsiveness throughout the entire process. From answering first questions as I customized to how I wanted, to answering my troubleshooting email on a Sunday evening which I didn't even expect. I can't fault them for a failed part right out of the box.

I know this thread was posted regards the BIAB version - But I thought it was a good place to leave some good words about High Gravity in general.
 
On a Saturday morning four years ago I called Dave Knott for help. It was the first time using my new High Gravity EBC-SV eBIAB setup. At the time I didn't know the controller cable had to stay connected to the thermowell during the boil. Dave explained the original instructions could be clearer and had me up and running within minutes of my call. Dave's commitment to quality and customer service to this day are still excellent.
 
I was waiting to finish a couple of jobs in July and use the money to buy a High Gravity system but now I hear that SS Brewtech is coming out with their own eBIAB system by the end of this summer. I might just wait to see what they have first.
 
I was waiting to finish a couple of jobs in July and use the money to buy a High Gravity system but now I hear that SS Brewtech is coming out with their own eBIAB system by the end of this summer. I might just wait to see what they have first.
Gonna have a high price tag
 
The thing that isn't necessarily recommended is single vessel brewing. It's very difficult, some would say impossible, to perform the dough in step slow enough when lowering the basket or bag into the water so as not to exceed the rate of reaction of the oxygen scavenger. Many still use this method, so I'm not saying you can't do it. It just adds a layer of difficulty.
I heat my mash water with basket and grain bag inside my single vessel system. Then dough in just as I would using any other mash tun. Not at all impossible or difficult to do really.
 
Dude. I just purchased this exact same system. 20 gal SS brewtech as well. I have some advice for you if you want to either lose the bag altogether or use a bag that is within a basket in pot

I have a 13” false bottom that bobby makes at brewhardware.com. And just order the 4” legs and it sits perfectly in between the boilcoil and just high enough to clear the element. Then you can drop in a basket, stick your bag into that basket and you’re good.

OR, and this is what I did. Order one of these bad boys from Utahbiodieselsupply and the basket replaces the bag completely!

BIAB-9inchx13deep3inchfeetA.jpg


Also I have a question about your boil, are you getting a good rolling boil? I do but I never feel the need to dial back my percentage while in boil mode. My PID is always at 100% during the boil

Here’s my set up, the shot of the mash shows you my current basket which is just a bayou classic fryer basket with my bag inside it. Utah bio is custom building my new filter basket. Also you can see that false bottom I told you about from brewhardware and how it perfectly sets above the element

View attachment 415563

View attachment 415564

View attachment 415565
Which filter is that exactly from Utah Biodiesel. I'd like to get that ordered before I get the High Gravity system. Also how you drain this on your system?
 
Hi All,
Just another update. As mentioned, my system arrived in less than a week, with no damage. Dave installed 4 in. bolts to the basket so that it sits above the element (that is not mentioned on the website and I didn't request, so that is a nice bonus). Also unknown to me: the SS kettle already has a recirc port at the top for the spin cycle, so Dave didn't need to drill.

It has taken me a while to get it all set up, including a portable GFCI spa panel, but today I got everything put together. I did a 30 min 10 gal PBW cycle and then did the recommended full volume passivation with star san. No leaks, no issues.

Let me tell you, from someone who first used propane with a keggle, and then moved to electric with a countertop brutus with 1500W, watching the temp rise nearly every 10 seconds with the 5000W boil coil is a dream. Out of the box the Wort-Hog held temp at 150 for the PBW cleaning. Amazeballs (I cannot tell you how many times I autotuned and futzed with my last pid).

Back to my original question about 5 gal batches. I think this will be no problem. The boil coil sits at just under 4 gal and the temp probe is probably at about 4.5 gal. I cannot wait to get this thing going for real.
 
I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these systems. Going with the 15 gal SS tank, riptide pump, and, at the advice of Dave, a Blichmann whirlpool return. He says the spin cycle won't work on the 15 gal SS tank.

I'm pretty excited. I haven't upgraded my brewing setup in nearly a decade. I've been using a three-vessel 5-gal propane setup for years, but with my allowable brewing time getting less frequent, I'm looking to simplify by setup while also being able to brew 10 gallon batches.
 
Maybe. I'm just going by what Dave says:

"We like the SpinCycle inlet because it installs above the max liquid level and doesn't require a shut off valve, but they do not fit between the basket and the vessel in a single-vessel system based on the 15 gallon vessel. We can install a Blichmann whirlpool inlet beneath the basket, and will drill the hole for you (no charge) if you add a whirlpool inlet to an order. You can use the SpinCycle with the 20 gallon vessel, but the 15 gallon vessel is best suited for what you want to do."

FYI, what is suited to me is 10 gallon low to mid gravity batches with rare 5 gallon high gravity batches.
 
Maybe. I'm just going by what Dave says:

"We like the SpinCycle inlet because it installs above the max liquid level and doesn't require a shut off valve, but they do not fit between the basket and the vessel in a single-vessel system based on the 15 gallon vessel. We can install a Blichmann whirlpool inlet beneath the basket, and will drill the hole for you (no charge) if you add a whirlpool inlet to an order. You can use the SpinCycle with the 20 gallon vessel, but the 15 gallon vessel is best suited for what you want to do."

FYI, what is suited to me is 10 gallon low to mid gravity batches with rare 5 gallon high gravity batches.
Personally, I think the Blichmann design is rather silly when compared to the simplicity of the Submerged Spincycle (link below), which is different than the one with the arm, and should definitely work with your set up.

http://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SpinCycleSubmerge

Plus, it's a heck of a lot cheaper. $20, plus $8 for a valve. Blichmann kit is probably going to set you back $50 all in.

I installed mine just off the bottom of the kettle and pointed it ever so slightly up to ensure no temp stratification when chilling.
 
I have the submerged spincycle in a 15G kettle with a boilcoil, it works just fine. They just need to make the port for the spincycle below where the basket will rest
 
I had Dave drill the holes just like he would for the Blichman, then install the spincycle
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It is the fitting to the left of the pickup tube, this is in a 15g Bayou Classic
 
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