ZmannR2
Well-Known Member
Personally, I would be concerned having anything metal touching the heating element. It just sounds wrong to me.
My dip tube goes right in between the boil coils and touches them......no issues whatsoever anywhere
Personally, I would be concerned having anything metal touching the heating element. It just sounds wrong to me.
Latest brew day update- went great but efficiency still sucked. View attachment 624633
That sounds about right depending on how hard you boil. I have the 15 gallon and it's usually 1.25 gallons an hour.What is everyone's boil off rate for those with the 20 gal SS pot? Mine is a whopping 1.5 gals/hour
Hi Ryan,
The High gravity controller I see pictured in this thread only has two regular switches and an ezboil controller. I have the same ezboil controller in my attic and they may have changed it since I bought my version but it only uses a regular ssr. It does not use a potentiometer but rather duty cycle/pwm mode to pulse the ssr and control heat output that way when switched to boil control mode. most pids do the same thing when switched to "manual" control mode.
Inside of these controllers you will just find the ezboil, 2 switches and an ssr I dont even believe this panel uses a contactor to safely turn off power to the second pole going to the element (theres always power going to one side of the element when plugged in). Unless im wrong theres no actual main power switch to keep component costs down.
Boil off rate depends on the boil power set on the ezboil.. sounds like your just running the element at 100% power during the boil. On my setup I normally set my boil power to 75% and get a gallon boil off that way. I've read that boiling too hard can have a negative impact on the beer. I dont know the details of that but I havent noticed any negative effects of boiling at a lower watt density by pulsing the element. On the plus side I have less steam to deal with.What is everyone's boil off rate for those with the 20 gal SS pot? Mine is a whopping 1.5 gals/hour
I freaking love this system! I still question how long the controller will last simply because it is so compact and the heat sink gets pretty hot, but so far well over a year of use and probably 7-8 batches, its really working great.
What was the issue? I’ve already had to replace the cable but that was my fault I think I might bent it too hardI had to send my controller back after about a dozen or so batches old due to some real wonky temperature readings. Dave fixed it right up and sent it back quickly and it now reads within a degree or so. Hopefully whatever he did to it holds up.
What was the issue? I’ve already had to replace the cable but that was my fault I think I might bent it too hard
Boil off rate depends on the boil power set on the ezboil.. sounds like your just running the element at 100% power during the boil. On my setup I normally set my boil power to 75% and get a gallon boil off that way. I've read that boiling too hard can have a negative impact on the beer. I dont know the details of that but I havent noticed any negative effects of boiling at a lower watt density by pulsing the element. On the plus side I have less steam to deal with.
Ok well that's a bit weaker element but you should be getting a good boil with it at around 75-80% regardless unless something is wrong.At 75% I barely get a trickle of a boil so I keep it at about 90%. And I’m using a big 240V 5000W BoilCoil 20!
I bought an extra cable but kept the original in perfect condition. I sent it back and he repaired it for free in 1 day! I was certainly willing to pay for it.What was the issue? I’ve already had to replace the cable but that was my fault I think I might bent it too hard
I have to say that after unscrewing and cleaning the nozzle and filter assembly after each brew I've never once experienced the issues you've mentioned. I'm actually surprised to even hear this is a thing.On the second video, pay attention to what I said about that stupid spray nozzle that High Gravity puts on your lid. Mine ended up FULL of mold because it traps moisture and wort in there. I have since replaced it with a camlock straight through design and it just falls into the grain bed and then filters outward from there during recirc. The spray nozzle IS NOT necessary at all guys
When I whirlpool hops I do run the pump to recirculate the wort during the boil. Otherwise I run the pump and recirculate the wort for ten minutes to sanitize the counter flow chiller I use for cooling the wort going to the fermenter.Quick question for all who brew with the high gravity single vessel BIAB system- do you leave the pump running during the boil? My pump is primed with wort, so when I reach boil, I’m thinking “there’s wort in the lines not getting boiled” so I have been turning the pump on and off briefly during the boil. Or maybe I should just drain the wort out of the lines during the boil?
I do, it works fine.
About 30 brews ago I forgot to put in my false bottom. Nothing happened to my bag. Haven’t bothered since. I have a boil coil and older EBC-SV system and use a Wilser bag.What are you going to use to keep the bag off the element?
First, thanks for sharing. While I'm not pleased your having issues, I'm glad it's not just me. Why this happens to some and not others is still a mystery to me..