Help with Water/Grain Ratio and Grain Absorption Calculation

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MNBones

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I’ll tell my story below but my question is: do you add the estimated amount of water due to grain absorption to your strike water calculation?

If I have 20 pounds of grain and want a 1.5 quarts/pound water grain ratio, simple math would say I want 30 quarts of water. However using the common grain absorption factor of 1 pint (.5 quart) per pound wouldn’t my actual ratio be 1.0 quarts/pound shortly after dough-in since 10 quarts have been absorbed by the grain?


My Story:
I have 2 batches under my belt with my new 10 gallon system but my mash efficiencies kinda stink.

I have been brewing for years using my previous 5 gallon system which was a Rubbermaid water cooler, a RIMS tube, controller, and pump. I consistently measured mash efficiencies in the mid 80’s. It was rare not to beat BeerSmith’s ‘Estimated Pre-Boil Gravity’, and that was with an extra ½ gallon of pre-boil volume.

I switched to 10 gallon batch sizes so my equipment doubled in size (Boil kettle and mash tun are both 20 gallons now instead of 10) but I retained the RIMS tube and pump (oh, and I should mention that I went ‘all electric’ with the new setup so the controller changed as well, but the RIMS was always electric. I’ll post my build and pictures when I figure out the correct place to post it…).

Anyway, I brewed using the same procedure as usual, hit my temperature, mashed for 60 minutes, iodine test was fine (10 minutes before mash out), but missed my pre-boil gravity by .015 on both batches.

As I mentioned above EVERYTHING in my setup has changed (except the RIMS tube and pump) so there are a lot of variables in play but the three that stick out for me are.

1.) My city dropped the PH of our water by about 0.6 so my mash-only acid additions ended up pushing the mash PH slightly below 5 (silly me, I should have measured the water PH in the HLT at brew time and recalculated the additions. I won’t make that mistake again).

2.) Sparge time: I looked at the manometer differential on the mash tun instead of watching the flow rate into the boil kettle (that thing is huge so ‘eye-balling’ it is different than what I’m used to) so my total sparge time was ~20 minutes instead of my usual 60-90 minute fly sparge.

3.) Water/grist ratio: In my old setup I heated strike water in the BK (because it had gallon markings) and added it to the MT-cooler, plus ‘a little bit more for the RIMS plumbing’, oh and ‘tip the kettle a bit since is stops flowing just above the 1 gallon mark’. In actuality I’ll bet this was close to an extra gallon of water in the mash process that would (if my ‘absorption hypothesis’ above is correct) bring my ratio up to the 1.25-1.5 range.

The pilot batches were two of my higher gravity recipes so drinkable beer will come out of the fermenters, but the batch I’ll brew next is a lower gravity brown ale that can’t afford to lose any OG points.

Thanks for your comments and suggestions!
 
Remember to factor in any dead space beneath your false bottom. While it depends on the crush to some extent, these estimates are very close and are taken from published sources and my own experience over the past several years with gravity fed and RIMS. I generally use the high end of each range and rarely have much mash water left over.

100% Barley Grist: 0.10 to 0.12 gal water absorbed per pound of grain.

80% Barley & up to 20% wheat/rye/oats: 0.12 to 0.15 gal water absorbed per pound of grain

>20% wheat/rye/oat (eg American wheat w/ 60:40 Barley:Wheat): 0.15 to 0.2 gal water per pound of grain

So, for a 100% barley, 10lb grist, you should expect 1.0 to 1.2 gallons absorption
 
Thank you for sharing your absorption data.

I do account for the water volume under the false bottom and in the RIMS plumbing.

Ignoring all the other factors my question is “Is the strike water volume needed for the desired fluid/solid ratio in the mash tun before or after the grain absorption?

From the example above:
Grain weight: 20 pounds
Desired ratio: 1.5 Quarts/Pound
Estimated Absorption volume: 10 Quarts

Mash In with:
1.5*20 = 30 quarts of strike water
Or
(1.5*20) + 10 = 40 quarts of strike water
 
If your RIMS system has a separate HLT/Boil and mash vessel (which I think it does), then I'd mash-in at 1.5 qt/lb then fill the HLT/Boil feeder kettle with enough water to reach pre-boil volume (accounting for absorption) and flip the switch.
 
I hate to sound like a broken record but… my concern here is not the pre-boil volume.

Does 1.5 quarts / pound mean what it says (so there will actually be only 1 quart of free water per pound in the mash after dough in) or do I compensate for absorption so that the actual amount of free water is 1.5 per pound.
 
No, do not compensate so that the unabsorbed/free wort is 1.5/lb.

Mash thickness is usually stated in terms of initial water volume and grain weight. If desired thickness is 1.5 qt/lb and you have 20 lb of grain, your mash should have 30 qt water. Depending on your grist, some of that 30 qts will get absorbed throughout the mash, so, no, the whole 30 quarts is not "free" in the mash.

I've seen a lot of different RIMS rigs over the years and they all have their sweet spot in terms of mash thickness. 1.5 is a good place to start. Some systems function best with thinner mashes, some thicker. The fun is in the experimenting. Cheers!
 
I second this. The strike volume is calculated KNOWING that a certain amount of the water will be absorbed by the grain.
 
Thanks guys I just wanted to be sure I haven’t been doing it wrong. I’ll have to look elsewhere for the mysterious efficiency loss in my new setup.
 
Yep, the water to grain ratio is water to grain, not free liquor in the mash. Grain absorption won't impact your target water to grist ratio (unless you want it to, I guess, you're free to do whatever you want, but that's not standard protocol), but it will impact the total water volume needed. 0.12 gallons per pound is a good baseline, but the actual absorption can vary based on a number of factors (namely grain bill, as already said).

To account, I simply have more sparge water on hand than I think I'll need.
 
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