Short answer. Yes. If you want to control the pump(s) in manual mode only, just wire them directly through a SPST switch. No SSR needed and a SPST switch is more than enough. Just follow the switch path for the manual mode to the pumps.quick question, if i didnt want to control any pumps with the BCS, i could eliminate the 3 bottom SSR's and and 2 of the 3 switches and just have one pump on a 2 position switch, correct?
Do you need to order additional NO connectors? I ordered the switches from the diagram but, they have 2 NO and 2 NC connectors with each... Im also slightly confused on the numbering 1-7.... The connectors are labeled 1, 2, 3, 4.... I tested with my mult8meter and see the NO go closed when switched in the right direction, just trying to figure out how 1-7 correlate.
I had one setback in that I ordered the 24v dc switches... bleh...
horric29 said:I think that I understand now... each group 1, 2, ,3 equals one level of NO contacts... 4, 5, 6 equals another level of contacts, etc...
Exactly. Another thing: The 3 position - Center Off - switches behave in a peculiar manner when N/C contacts are included. Bottom line, the N/C contacts are really of no use on that switch type (Center Off) unless you understand the behavior and need the N/C modules for a special application.I think that I understand now... each group 1, 2, ,3 equals one level of NO contacts... 4, 5, 6 equals another level of contacts, etc...
Exactly. Another thing: The 3 position - Center Off - switches behave in a peculiar manner when N/C contacts are included. Bottom line, the N/C contacts are really of no use on that switch type (Center Off) unless you understand the behavior and need the N/C modules for a special application.
Just saying.
I'm glad you got it figured out. (If I can help, please let me know.)
P-J
Correct... Also ... I did have to order more NO (green) contactors I think I needed an extra 4 or so... Yea the red ones are useless for this build.
what schematic are you using? The one from the first page or is there one later on that I missed?
Top of Page 10 minus the pumps... Notice the run that goes to the coil contactors? As soon as you turn the selector to HLT or BK, then turn either the HLT or BK to auto or manual, the contactor is activated based on that diagram... So 120v starts flowing... The second 120v leg dosn't flow unless you activate the BCS or switch to manual activating the DC power from the BCS thus turning on the relay...
There is no current flow unless the circuit is completed. Applying 120V to one leg of the element does not complete the circuit.
Think about it.!
You are more than welcome.LOL... I'm not an engineer on 240v Heater Elements... HAHA... I wasn't sure if it would operate at half power with one 120v leg or not... There is no neutral leg on these heater elements so I wasn't sure how in the world it worked... Thanks again PJ!
Please evaluate what you are trying to achieve. You should not be using SSRs to control the pumps or a cooler. The SSRs are only needed when a PID is controlling a power source.Hi guys,
I’m laid up in bed this week after surgery and thought it a perfect time to design and start a materials list. I have a couple of questions. I have seen a couple of P-J’s schematic and was wondering if you are putting all of the SSR's on heat sinks. My heat sink will be mounted on the exterior. I'm wondering if I only need the two for the HLT and BK heating elements. My system will include 2 pumps and a fermentation cooler. So, I will have a total of 5 SSR. I can't imagine being able to attach 5 to a 12x6 heat sink.
Also, from my research it seems P-J has designed several systems. Is there a place to view all of the variants?
Please evaluate what you are trying to achieve. You should not be using SSRs to control the pumps or a cooler. The SSRs are only needed when a PID is controlling a power source.
Think about it... Please...
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