Help with propane plumbing

[Thundercougarfalconbird]

Hey, reviving this thread for similar questions.
I just got my hands on a sweet brutus with banjo burners. It will be arriving tomorrow so I dont have exact part numbers, but from what I understand the burners are the same as Blichmann burners, So I assume they are high pressure.
It has no fittings on the burners at all, just an open port for the adapter. I would like to have a blackpipe manifold type set up.
What adapter do I need for the burner? Where can I get it? (like the flare to mfl one)
What size black pipe should I buy?
Is there anything I should know when calculating pipe lengths?(so I don't mismeasure)
Do I need to teflon tape everything?
What do I need on the end of the gas pipe to attach it to the regulator?
Will this regulator work for this application? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033JF0GE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
What kind/size needle valve do I need? Does it go straight onto the adapter, then the black pipe goes into it?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm going from electric to propane and have trouble believing its this simple.

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

Yes Banjo and Blichmann burners are the same.
I have a bunch of the banjo burner orifices you're looking for.
Read through this thread

and if you need help contact us

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

This style regulator is a better choice because the style you linked to is a pain to attach and detach from the tank.

 

[flatrockbrewing]

Does anyone know if the blichmann burner is high or low pressure? I just finished a gas manifold on my burners but found out the propane company installed a low pressure regulator. The flames on the burners on first fireup look a little small perhaps 1/2 inch. We did not attach the supplied high pressure regulator and we used 1/2 inch black pipe for the manifold.

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

it's a high pressure banjo burner by any other reseller. increased the orifice size by small steps (using small drill bits) until you achieve the desired results.

 

[JayberQue]

it's a high pressure banjo burner by any other reseller. increased the orifice size by small steps (using small drill bits) until you achieve the desired results.

Are the systems you build high or low pressure?

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

Are the systems you build high or low pressure?

The answer is: yes.
We are unique in that we build custom equipment. Almost every stand we build is to spec. So, whether it's high pressure, low pressure, electric, direct fire, RIMS, HERMS... we do it
We work with the customer to build just what they are looking for. That's why you won't find 2 identical stands in our photo gallery.

 

[JayberQue]

Okay then maybe you can answer this question for me... I plan on using the low-pressure 10" hurrincane burner set up, mounted in your mounts, but do not really want to use the combo orifice/valve units sold by williams or brewers harware. I would much rather use a needle valve, like the one you have pictured earlir in the thread, for flame control. But when i search for low-pressure huricane burner orifice google come up with nothing. Any idea where i might find these things?

 

[bbentley40]

Okay then maybe you can answer this question for me... I plan on using the low-pressure 10" hurrincane burner set up, mounted in your mounts, but do not really want to use the combo orifice/valve units sold by williams or brewers harware. I would much rather use a needle valve, like the one you have pictured earlir in the thread, for flame control. But when i search for low-pressure huricane burner orifice google come up with nothing. Any idea where i might find these things?

I think.. and someone can correct me if I am wrong on this because I am in the same boat as you trying to figure all of it out.. but I think you can drill the high pressure orifice out with a 3/32 drill bit and make it a low pressure. Someone please correct me if that is wrong.. to prevent me and others from making a mistake.

 

[wolfman_48442]

I think.. and someone can correct me if I am wrong on this because I am in the same boat as you trying to figure all of it out.. but I think you can drill the high pressure orifice out with a 3/32 drill bit and make it a low pressure. Someone please correct me if that is wrong.. to prevent me and others from making a mistake.

That's what I did and it works very well for me.

Here's a chart if you'd like to try something different. Just make sure you're using the correct column for NG or propane as your application requires.
I know the chart says for my application I'd "only" be getting 61460 BTU's, but for my 15 gal kettle, that's more than enough.
If you for some reason drill the orifice too large, a drop of solder will close the hole up and you can start over.

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

Okay then maybe you can answer this question for me... I plan on using the low-pressure 10" hurrincane burner set up, mounted in your mounts, but do not really want to use the combo orifice/valve units sold by williams or brewers harware. I would much rather use a needle valve, like the one you have pictured earlir in the thread, for flame control. But when i search for low-pressure huricane burner orifice google come up with nothing. Any idea where i might find these things?

I'll add a few orifices to the package, that way you can afford an oops

I've seen the solder suggestion before and I'm a doubter... the burners get mighty hot

 

[JayberQue]

I'll add a few orifices to the package, that way you can afford an oops

I've seen the solder suggestion before and I'm a doubter... the burners get mighty hot

Well thank you very much sir. So I am right when assuming that the only two options are drill out a high pressure orifice or the combo jobs that I'm not so fond of. Good to know.

 

[Brewshock]

I guess I am also still a little confused. From tank to regulator. From regulator to all three needle valves. Do I need an orifice at each burner between the valve and the burner? Or do I use one orifice after the regulator at the beginning of the manifold?

 

[Brewshock]

Bump

 

[ColoHox]

I guess I am also still a little confused. From tank to regulator. From regulator to all three needle valves. Do I need an orifice at each burner between the valve and the burner? Or do I use one orifice after the regulator at the beginning of the manifold?

Did you figure out your questions? I am building my propane single tier now and have a few threads about the plumbing if you search around.

 

[reynolds5520]

I guess I am also still a little confused. From tank to regulator. From regulator to all three needle valves. Do I need an orifice at each burner between the valve and the burner? Or do I use one orifice after the regulator at the beginning of the manifold?

You need one orifice for each burner, at the burner.

 

[texashomer]

The answer is: yes.
We are unique in that we build custom equipment. Almost every stand we build is to spec. So, whether it's high pressure, low pressure, electric, direct fire, RIMS, HERMS... we do it
We work with the customer to build just what they are looking for. That's why you won't find 2 identical stands in our photo gallery.

When you build a High Pressure system what type of hose do you generally run from the valve to the burner? (Assuming the valve is a ball or needle valve.)

The reason I ask is that I'm finding the yellow flex line connecting the valve to the burner, most commonly pictured on rigs, is only rated at 5 PSI. Is this dangerous?

(I've got two banjo burners and a high pressure regulator. My current flow is: Tank, regulator, high pressure rubber hose to black pipe, black pipe to ball valve, ball valve to yellow coated stainless flex line to burner.)

 

[redsoxfan1974]

awesome thread!

 

[rickyspeak]

Awesome thread guys. Hopefully somebody can help me figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'm trying to setup an all 11"WC LP gas setup because I'm planning to do a Honeywell valve temperature controlled system. So far I've had countless problems with burners and gas flow and I'm a bit of a loss.

Stage 1:
High BTU LP regulator
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024E6TQY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
6 foot hose to the manifold
1/2" black iron manifold
23 tip jet burner (made sure I got LP and not NG jet tips)

This put out lots of yellow flames that put soot on everything and started melting my steel. Clearly too much heat and not enough gas pressure.

Stage 2:
Same setup with a 10 tip jet burner (made sure I got LP and not NG jet tips)

This still put out lots of yellow flame and soot, but at least I'm not melting my steel anymore.

Stage 3:
6inch Bayou cast iron LP burner

Blue flames, but it takes an 45-60min to heat water for mash in and barely can maintain a boil.

Stage 4:
10 inch Bayou cast iron LP burner

Blue flames, but I don't get anymore heat.

Stage 5:
I decide there is too much drag in my manifold somewhere and go straight from my tank to the burner with a 3 foot hose.

Barely gets the fire lit. Somehow this is worse than before.

Clearly my regulator has crapped out somehow. Most of the discussion here is about high pressure, so I'm not sure what good setup for LP. Is de3isit using high pressure and using the valves to control flow to his Honeywells there? Did I just get unlucky and buy a crappy regulator, if so what would you guys recommend? Would this all be easier if I just went to 10-30 PSI and used a valve to control flow to my Honeywell or what?

At this point I have several spare burners and I could setup in a variety of ways. I'm just tired of not getting anywhere with my attempts to fix it. Any help would be great.

 

[jbraaten]

I want to bump this thread.
I have been looking for some sort of diagram/schematic of how people plumbed these things with the black piping. I like the rigidity of the black and, honestly, the aesthetics. I am trying to find clarification on best method from the regulator to the pipe and pipe to the burner and what a parks list for those connections would be.