Help with PID wiring

[spongebob1624]

Hi guys,
I have bought a Sestos D1S VR PID, manual here
http://sestos-hk.com/english/download/D1S-EN.pdf

I have built a full copper valved refllux still that uses a 50 litre stainless steel beer keg as a boiler.

Inside there ia a 2400 watt stailnless steel element which is connected to a wall socket.

Attached to the PID is a 25A SSR which came witht the PID. A picture and specifications are here:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/25A-SSR-...Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item3cb8590b2e

I have wired the unit up to my boiler and am running a k thermocouple. The issue I have is trying to work out the wiring from the SSR to the heating element.

The ouput is 12v and the PID controls the SSR. So what or where does the element get its power from.

Would really apreciate some help here and a diagram if possible.

Regards

Spongebob @ Not an electrician



The element I am running is a 2400 Watt and our power is 240 V AC.

 

[stlbeer]

Spongebob,

I'd like to suggest that you look at this post:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims-dummies-114997/

Though you are not using a RIMS, the wiring would be accurate for your use. Once you've read through this, then let's talk about your setup and how you can implement the PID/SSR into it.

Hope this helps!

 

[mredge73]

There are 4 terminals on the SSR.
One side is + and - for DC from the PID.
The other side is a switch.

Single Phase 120V:
Wire it like a light switch.
Source Hot on one side and Load Hot on the other, neutral wires for the load and source are connected together.

2 Phase 240V:
Works the same way, you just don't have a neutral wire.
Source Hot1 on one side and Load Hot1 on the other, Source Hot2 and Load Hot2 are connected together.

 

[spongebob1624]

Thanks guys Ill give it a go and post some pics shortly

 

[spongebob1624]

Hi guys,

As promised all done. Wiring the PIDS were done and all work. First fire up this weekend. Hope the photos are okay. The camlocks are now brass not alloy.

Spent 6 weeks building this thing off and on. Full blown valved reflux still. The coil in the head unit was upgraded from 1/4 inch tube to 3/8 tube. The hoses from the tank are 3/4 and the connections attached to the still are 1/2 inch. They then hook into the 3/8 coil. Instead of 8 loops have increased to 14 and the head is 3" longer thus ensuring it will remain nice and cool with little restiction of flow or effort from the pump. The flow rate can be adjusted by a flow valve.

The test the other day had the head temp at a constant 10 degrees celcius on a 31 degree celcius day in the sun, so shouldnt be an issue. If I need it to get colder, Ill run the pipe work through a cool box.

The cooling is run by a submerisble pump from a 500 litre water tank.

Has two 2200 Watt stainless steel heating elements, has a stainless steel float valve which will shut off the element when the mash gets too low and will prevent element burning out.

There is one thermocouple in the column that monitors the head temp and one in the boiler that monitors the mash temp. This one is adjustabe through the PID and SSR unit. Also have a digital thermometer in the head to ensure there are no issues should the PIDS crap out.

Everything is either copper or stainless and the column is filled with Raschig Rings.

If you want more pictures, let me know

Cheers and many thanks for the information and help.

Spongebob