Help with Mash pH

[Normans54]

Hey everybody,

Recently I started trying to manipulate my mash pH and I have run into the same problem each time in that my mash pH readings will get "stuck" no matter how much brewing salt I add (in this case it has always been calcium chloride). The first time it happened, I chalked it up to the fact that I was using a cheap $10 pH meter that I got off of Amazon. However since then, I upgraded to an Oakton EcoTestr pH 2 with ATC and 3 point calibration that I calibrate before each use with buffering solutions that have a pH of 4, 7, and 10 (I should also note that I store my pH meter upright with the tip immersed in potassium chloride when not in use) and I still have the same problem. Typically, the way I add my brewing salts is by extracting a bit of wort, dissolving a 1/2 tsp of calcium chloride into that wort, then evenly pour it throughout my mash tun. I then wait about 5-10 minutes to allow the wort to recirculate throughout my HERMS system and mix the brewing salts, after which I take another pH reading. Normally, the first addition of calcium chloride will bring the mash pH down some, but not to the target. Then, I will repeat the process to add some more, with each addition bringing the pH down less than the previous one, with the pH ultimately stopping somewhere between 5.5 and 5.8 regardless of how many more times I add brewing salts in the manner previously described. This is driving me crazy guys, so any advice or guidance in this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!

 

[JonM]

You should be adding the mash salts, and any acids that are recommended by a mash calculator, to the strike water before the grain goes in. Are you adding acid?

 

[BPO]

I add the recommended salts that were recommended by the water calculator to the mash. After the first few minutes I check the pH. Depending on the results I add 1 % Lactic acid malt per 0.1 pH. For example if pH is 5.5 and I used 17 lbs of grain in the recipe I would add 0.51 lbs of acid malt to get a pH of 5.2. (5.5- 5.2= .3 so 17*3%= 0.51 lbs). After adding the acid malt I check again around 5-10 min. If you missed the target add more acid malt as needed.

 

[Brew_Meister_General]

Hey everybody,

Recently I started trying to manipulate my mash pH and I have run into the same problem each time in that my mash pH readings will get "stuck" no matter how much brewing salt I add (in this case it has always been calcium chloride).

Brewing salts only drop the pH of the mash by a little bit, they're almost exclusively used to give you the right water profile so you'll find you can never really use more than 1g or 2g of calcium chloride which promotes the thickness/sweetness of the beer, i.e. its more malty characters, and should be kept below 100 ppm.

Phosphoric acid is the top choice for bringing the pH down for your mash and sparge water as it reduces the bicarbonate in your water, i.e. the compound that makes it alkaline.

You would need to get a local water report to find out what beers are ideal for your brewing water with regards to its level of bicarbonate as malts like chocolate and roasted barley are very effective at bringing the pH down. This would also tell you your chloride and sulphate levels which would indicate how much calcium chloride and gypsum you could use to achieve your desired water profile whilst bringing the pH down.

I imagine your water hardness is medium to high meaning it would be better suited for brewing amber and dark beers.

 

[ajdelange]

First, and probably most important, to the point that I'll repeat it even though others have mentioned it here, the salts (calcium in particular) have but a small effect on mash pH. It takes a lot of calcium to effect a change of pH as large as 0.1. Which brings us to the second point: the meter you are using has resolution of 0.1 pH which means you are not able to see pH changes of the magnitude one expects by adjusting salts. You really need a meter such as the Milwaukee M102 or Hach pHPro+ for the brewing application.

Final point: as you are not measuring pH above 7 there is no point in doing the three point calibration on your meter.

 

[Terek]

You should be adding the mash salts, and any acids that are recommended by a mash calculator, to the strike water before the grain goes in. Are you adding acid?

this, they must be added before strike water goes into the mash. Must happen before any conversion starts, and it pretty much starts instantly. I would recommend using somekind of acid, as salt doesnt go very far. I use lactic, because it drops my bicarbonate and alkalinity levels as well

 

[Brew_Meister_General]

I calibrate before each use with buffering solutions that have a pH of 4, 7, and 10 (I should also note that I store my pH meter upright with the tip immersed in potassium chloride when not in use) and I still have the same problem.

I second that, you only need to calibrate with the 4 and 7

 

[Gavin C]

Hey everybody,
This is driving me crazy guys, so any advice or guidance in this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!

Your doing a few things you shouldn't be and using a meter that is of no use for brewing.

Salts: Target water profile
Acid: Adjust pH

This might be useful to you. It is how I tackle water and pH of the mash .

 

[mblanks2]

This might be useful to you. It is how I tackle water and pH of the mash .

Good information. This is how I do it as well.

You really need a meter such as the Milwaukee M102 or Hach pHPro+ for the brewing application.

Final point: as you are not measuring pH above 7 there is no point in doing the three point calibration on your meter.

I also use the MW102 with 4 and 7 buffer solutions for calibration. No need for 10.