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Help me understand TC fittings

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brewprint

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I'm on my way to having this electric BIAB system running. The kettle is on order as well as the panel. There will also be a pump in the mix.

On the bottom of the kettle I'll have a whirlpool fitting as well as the outlet. On the top of the kettle I will have an input for mash circulation.

These are all going to be 1.5 TC fittings. My question is about attaching tubing. After searching many hours trying to find information on this I am lost. Is there a hose clamp and am I supposed to use barbed fittings?

Do I hook up a 3 way TC valve directly to the output on the pump so I can change from mash circulation to whirlpool?

Any help in direction where to find this information or answers to my questions would be fantastic.
 
You'll need a TC -> hose barb fitting like this: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15hb58.htm. You'll probably want to use a hose clamp on that, yeah.

It's more hardware, i.e. more expensive, but might be easier to use TC -> male camlock fittings and hoses with female camlocks. That way you can easily switch hoses without undoing .

If you don't want to switch hoses at all, a 3-way TC valve will do it.
 
Here's a picture of what I'm wanting to do for circulation.

DownUnderHose.jpg
 
So if i understand, your question is if your using a 1.5" triclamp on the outside which gives you no threads inside how do you recirc properly with a hose? Thats actually a good question i never really thought about, having welded NPT full couplers i just screw in a elbow and barb into my recirc port...you dont have that for Triclamps.
 
You'll need a TC -> hose barb fitting like this: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15hb58.htm. You'll probably want to use a hose clamp on that, yeah.

It's more hardware, i.e. more expensive, but might be easier to use TC -> male camlock fittings and hoses with female camlocks. That way you can easily switch hoses without undoing .

If you don't want to switch hoses at all, a 3-way TC valve will do it.

Right. You'll either want one of those, or one of the connections below if you go with camlocks. You should pick one style and be done with it, I'd suggest, so you have consistency throughout your system.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/camtc15.htm
 
Right. You'll either want one of those, or one of the connections below if you go with camlocks. You should pick one style and be done with it, I'd suggest, so you have consistency throughout your system.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/camtc15.htm

The key here is that this has to go after a ball valve, you cant just hook this up to a whirlpool port at the bottom of your kettle obviously or you'll just be dumping wort out.
 
The key here is that this has to go after a ball valve, you cant just hook this up to a whirlpool port at the bottom of your kettle obviously or you'll just be dumping wort out.

Obviously, yes. That or keep the level of the input higher than that of the wort, as in the picture. I'm not sure I'm a fan of that approach, from the perspective of facilitating a whirlpool, avoiding excessive aeration, or preventing infection (if this is used while cooling - and really, if you're going to whirlpool, you may as well use it as a tool to make that inexpensive immersion chiller super effective). Better to keep the input level lower and couple it with a valve of some kind.
 
I have a whirlpool fitting at the bottom. The circulation from the top is just for the mash.
 

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