Help...is my beer ok?

[Techy]

Hey all did my first BIAB IPA last Tuesday night (18th) and have not seen much if any action in the airlock. Tonight I decided to bite the bullet and take a peek inside my bucket and took a pic. It looks foamy on top and has a nice yeasty aroma to it but I wanted to ask people with more experience if they think it looks ok?

I was unable to take a gravity reading after putting the wort in the fermenter because my damn hydrometer had a crack in it and was pretty much useless.

I have been worried to death about my temperature and trying hard to keep it in the optimal range (between 60 to 70 degrees). If anything I am prob a little on the cooler side of things because I am using two frozen 2 liter bottles in a ferment bag.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Kmar48]

Looks pretty good to me! I would assume that you have a leak somewhere in your bucket lid seal and that is why you aren't seeing any activity in the airlock.

 

[RPh_Guy]

Looks pretty good to me! I would assume that you have a leak somewhere in your bucket lid seal and that is why you aren't seeing any activity in the airlock.

This.

 

[schematix]

Looks fine. Put the lid back on!

 

[Techy]

Thanks all...I put the lid back on with a new sanitized airlock. I guess I will check back on it in another week so......

 

[Andrew Hodgson]

Gotta get a new hydrometer too, only science will tell you when she is done.

 

[North_of_60]

I gave up on the lid and airlock and use stretch wrap now. The airlock leaks any way and I like to see what’s going on. That’s a DOT thermometer from Thermo Works with a 12 inch probe.

 

[Techy]

Gotta get a new hydrometer too, only science will tell you when she is done.

I ordered one as soon as it happened for next round of beer making!

 

[Techy]

@North_of_60

I like that setup...I assume enough carbon dioxide gas still leaks out of the stretch wrap to not cause any issues? I like the thermometer setup...I have a few thermo works (pen and pop) so I am familiar with their products (nice products too I might add). Also, you don't have to worry about any contamination risks with keeping the probe in all the time...I guess just sanitizing real good before placement is key?

 

[Techy]

Figured I would post back since when I started this thread I was not quite a week in. Well tomorrow will be officially 2 weeks so I am thinking my beer is most likely fully fermented and prob ready to be transferred to keg?

I know without a hydrometer it's really anybody's guess but how should I gauge that it is ready or do I just roll with it and call it done?

 

[RPh_Guy]

You ordered a hydrometer almost 2 weeks ago and don't have it yet?

 

[Techy]

Yes, ok I got what your saying. I will use it tonight when I go home and start keeping track of the readings. I will give it a few days to see if it remains the same.

 

[Jayjay1976]

What recipe is that? Just curious. I've had issues with grommets not creating a tight enough seal to see bubbles in the airlock unless the fermentation is really vigorous. I use fermonsters and prefer standard or hollow bungs for a better seal.

 

[Grateful Dan]

I was corrected

I was worried about my grommet, not knowing how long they last so I have been spraying star san around the grommet and airlock during fermentation to check for any leaks.

 

[RPh_Guy]

Looks like a lot of head space in there. It may take time to fill the headspace and get enough pressure to push through the airlock.

Headspace doesn't need time to fill with gas, it's already full.

 

[MHBT]

looks good to me, i used to be paranoid when i first started " is my beer infected?" "is my beer bad?" 9 times out of 10 beer is fine or even excellent and our impatience is the only thing that is not fine, Once the sanitation process and proper fermentation routine becomes second nature brewing becomes more fun and way less paranoid producing stress, 2 keys for brewing succes, love your yeast/keep em cozy and cleanliness/sanitation its fool proof granted you have a good recipe

 

[RM-MN]

Figured I would post back since when I started this thread I was not quite a week in. Well tomorrow will be officially 2 weeks so I am thinking my beer is most likely fully fermented and prob ready to be transferred to keg?

I know without a hydrometer it's really anybody's guess but how should I gauge that it is ready or do I just roll with it and call it done?

Kegging and bottling beer are two different things. If your beer is not fully fermented when you bottle you risk havign bottles explode, throwing broken glass all over. With a keg, if the fermentation is not complete, you can bleed off excess pressure. It's much easier to do that with a keg than a bottle. While I still would recommend using the hydrometer to verify that the beer hasn't stalled, it is not as risky as with a bottle so I would just take one reading and keg it if it is at the expected FG.

 

[North_of_60]

@North_of_60

I like that setup...I assume enough carbon dioxide gas still leaks out of the stretch wrap to not cause any issues? I like the thermometer setup...I have a few thermo works (pen and pop) so I am familiar with their products (nice products too I might add). Also, you don't have to worry about any contamination risks with keeping the probe in all the time...I guess just sanitizing real good before placement is key?

I’ve only made two batches this way. So far it’s working good. The stretch wrap leaks enough to let co2 escape without expanding it. Stretch wrap doesn’t stick to the bucket very well. That’s why I made the elestic band you may have noticed around the rim.

I only sanitize the probe, I figure the streach wrap is already sanitary coming off the roll.

 

[Toxxyc]

Headspace doesn't need time to fill with gas, it's already full.

Take a filled airlock and blow on it from the bottom side (specially the S-type). It takes some effort to move the liquid in there, and with the cap on it gets even harder. It does need to build up some pressure to really move the airlock

 

[Techy]

Not sure I know how to get the FG since I did not have a hydrometer at the time to check my OG for the wort?

 

[Techy]

Took a hydrometer reading last night and even tried a sample from the plastic beaker after getting a reading.

I didn't think it tasted too bad. Not bad for being warm and not carb'd

I plan on doing one more reading tonight and then possibly kegging tomorrow. Will give me one more night to finish getting my stuff ready like cleaning / sanitizing new keg, etc.

 

[Jayjay1976]

Took a hydrometer reading last night and even tried a sample from the plastic beaker after getting a reading.

I didn't think it tasted too bad. Not bad for being warm and not carb'd

I plan on doing one more reading tonight and then possibly kegging tomorrow. Will give me one more night to finish getting my stuff ready like cleaning / sanitizing new keg, etc.

If the gravity sample already tastes good when it's warm, flat, and green then it will definitely taste awesome when carbed, chilled, and mature!

 

[RM-MN]

Not sure I know how to get the FG since I did not have a hydrometer at the time to check my OG for the wort?

The FG is what the yeast left you. It doesn't depend on the OG with the exception that the OG will give you an approximantion based on the attenuation expected from the yeast you used. Sometimes the estimates of FG are way off. Yeast doesn't always quit when the package says it will.

 

[tellyho]

I run the risk of getting flamed here, but your beer is 95% likely to be just fine, hydrometer or no, airlock or Saran wrap. I have brewed plenty of batches with no gravity readings whatsoever. It's usually after I've broken my n+1th hydrometer and am angry at hydrometer makers. Just give it extra time and the yeast is usually going to do what it needs to do.

 

[RPh_Guy]

Take a filled airlock and blow on it from the bottom side (specially the S-type). It takes some effort to move the liquid in there, and with the cap on it gets even harder. It does need to build up some pressure to really move the airlock

No.
1 inch water = 0.0361 psi

 

[Toxxyc]

No.
1 inch water = 0.0361 psi

I'm not sure what you're saying. Yes, it takes pressure to move water up the airlock. That's what I've said and also what you mentioned, isn't it?

 

[RPh_Guy]

My original point was that almost as soon as yeast start to produce CO2, the airlock will start bubbling.
The 0.036 psi needed to raise an inch of airlock liquid is negligible.

 

[Techy]

Hey all just wanted to report back and first say thanks to everyone who has posted in this thread. Second I was able to clean / sanitize my new keg yesterday and transfer my beer. It it currently in the kegerator getting cooled down and will be ready for force carb'g when I get home from work.

A few ?'s on force carb'g since I have never done it before. I have read and watched several online videos showing the process but just wanted to make sure the steps I am going to take are accurate and correct:

1. Hook up gas line only and lay keg down on the ground on it's side (with gas inlet closest to the floor).
2. Crank gas up to around 30 psi and let it start filling the keg.
3. Roll the keg back and forth for (5 minutes?) or also heard (count to 200?).
4. After time is complete pick keg back up and place back in kegerator with gas still on and at the 30 psi to leave that way overnight. I assume this ensures it finishes carb'g the rest of the way?
5. The next day reduce pressure back down to serving pressure (8-10 psi) and "burp" the keg 2-3 times.
6. Serve beer and enjoy?

Are the steps above mostly correct or am I missing something...hope someone can clarify!

Thanks....

 

[jack13]

I run the risk of getting flamed here, but your beer is 95% likely to be just fine, hydrometer or no, airlock or Saran wrap. I have brewed plenty of batches with no gravity readings whatsoever. It's usually after I've broken my n+1th hydrometer and am angry at hydrometer makers. Just give it extra time and the yeast is usually going to do what it needs to do.

I had broken a couple hydrometers, too. Third one was a charm--had it for quite some time.

I felt like it was the most delicate thing on earth. Then I got a finishing hydrometer for getting FG (scale only goes up to 1.020 or so, so the scaling is much easier to read and accurate). Now THAT thing is delicate. It makes the regular one seem robust. But I haven't broken it yet!

 

[bpgreen]

I broke my first hydrometer before I had a chance to use it. The next one didn't last much longer.

Then I bought two so that if one broke I'd have a backup.

I've never broken one since then. The logical conclusion is that hydrometer are social and when they're alone they're prone to depression and likely to commit suicide.

 

[jack13]

I broke my first hydrometer before I had a chance to use it. The next one didn't last much longer.

Then I bought two so that if one broke I'd have a backup.

I've never broken one since then. The logical conclusion is that hydrometer are social and when they're alone they're prone to depression and likely to commit suicide.

haha. Seems airtight to me!

 

[schematix]

buy expensive narrow range lab grade hydrometers. you will never drop one because you are so damn careful because if you do its like dropping 4 LHBS hydrometers.

 

[RM-MN]

Hey all just wanted to report back and first say thanks to everyone who has posted in this thread. Second I was able to clean / sanitize my new keg yesterday and transfer my beer. It it currently in the kegerator getting cooled down and will be ready for force carb'g when I get home from work.

A few ?'s on force carb'g since I have never done it before. I have read and watched several online videos showing the process but just wanted to make sure the steps I am going to take are accurate and correct:

1. Hook up gas line only and lay keg down on the ground on it's side (with gas inlet closest to the floor).
2. Crank gas up to around 30 psi and let it start filling the keg.
3. Roll the keg back and forth for (5 minutes?) or also heard (count to 200?).
4. After time is complete pick keg back up and place back in kegerator with gas still on and at the 30 psi to leave that way overnight. I assume this ensures it finishes carb'g the rest of the way?
5. The next day reduce pressure back down to serving pressure (8-10 psi) and "burp" the keg 2-3 times.
6. Serve beer and enjoy?

Are the steps above mostly correct or am I missing something...hope someone can clarify!

Thanks....

In a bit of a hurry, are we? I'd give the beer a few more days so more of the yeast settle out. I can almost guarantee that you will find the beer to be better at the end of October (if you have any left) than it will in just a couple days.

 

[Techy]

In a bit of a hurry, are we? I'd give the beer a few more days so more of the yeast settle out. I can almost guarantee that you will find the beer to be better at the end of October (if you have any left) than it will in just a couple days.

No wasn't really in a hurry I just figured with FG readings pretty consistent after a few days it was done. So as I stated I cleaned / sanitized everything and keg'd. Had some this past Saturday and it wasn't bad. A little to "malty" for my liking and dark as well. Next time I want it to be lighter in color, a little bit hoppier, and more of a citrus taste. But hey first batch so is what it is!

 

[balrog]

I mirror RM-MN on the hurry, but for carbing. I find I have to give it a day or 3 to settle when doing any pressure changes, like 30->12 psi.