Help! Drilled (punched) hole too big in kettle.

[camcdonald1]

Just starting out by saying I'm an idiot for doing this. I was in auto pilot after punching 1-1/4" holes in both my BK and then HLT for my Camco SS 5500 elements. Next up were holes for my ball valves in the HLT. Without thinking I grabbed the same chassis/knockout hole punch size and proceeded to add a hole that fits an electric heater element and is way too large for a standard 1/2" ball valve.
What are my options? I just finished spending hours polishing each keggle to a mirror finish, I would hate to have to scrap a keg. Never have I ever kicked myself so hard for not measuring twice!

 

[RufusBrewer]

Is there a next size up from what you intdended tio install in the irst place? Can yiu get a 5/8 or 3/4 ball valve?

 

[Deece]

Weld a Tc ferrule in an use either a adapter to 1/2 NPT to your ball valve or a TC ball valve. If you need a dip tube I believe someone makes one that will work, might have been Stout can't remember offhand.

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

What Deece said, buy an extra ferrule like you were going to use for your Heating elements, weldless or welded doesnt matter just to fit that hole and then buy a Triclover to 1/2" NPT adapter from Bobby for the proper size Triclover you r using at
https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1841.htm

Its going to make that one fitting more expensive($5 for Ferrule, $8 for clamp, $10 for triclover->1/2") because you'll need the weld ferrule, triclamp, and then the fitting, but your keg wont be scrapped.

 

[snackson]

If you don't need to connect anything on the inside you could use a 1/2" weld spud. That should fit the hole.

 

[idiotsinc]

I used 2 stainless steel fender washers with an 1/2 inch stainless bolt and nut to patch an 1.75 hole that was supposed to be 1.25. I used a 2 inch washer in the inside with an 2.5" on the outside. I used a sheet of FDA approved high heat silicone plus a tube of FDA silicone between the outside washer and the pot to seal the hole. I then sealed the hole by tightening the bolt. Then I punched the proper 1.25" hole for my heating element in another spot. If there is enough interest I'll post the pictures I took.

 

[-CHRIS-]

I had to move an element in my keggle and I patched it with a 1" NPT stainless steel hex plug which I bought on eBay and heater element nut and o ring from BrewHardware.com. The heater element nut is 1" NPT as well.

I have a dozen or so batches through the system with no problems.

Chris

 

[camcdonald1]

Thanks for all the great advice guys. The hole itself is actually 1-3/8" since I used a one inch chassis punch. I guess next steps will be to find a coupler or spud with an outside diameter that matches the hole size and learn how to silver solder. When you mention "weld" could I get by with silver soldering?

@snackson, I have a pickup tube going on the inside that reaches through to the center of the keg

@idiotsinc, I'd be interested to see the pictures of your patch job.

 

[srice]

Thanks for all the great advice guys. The hole itself is actually 1-3/8" since I used a one inch chassis punch. I guess next steps will be to find a coupler or spud with an outside diameter that matches the hole size and learn how to silver solder. When you mention "weld" could I get by with silver soldering?

@snackson, I have a pickup tube going on the inside that reaches through to the center of the keg

@idiotsinc, I'd be interested to see the pictures of your patch job.

This is what you need https://www.brewhardware.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=tc+solder+flange&Submit=

I converted a keg which had been using a electric element setup based on the Kal design over to a soldered on ferrule with Bobby's hardware and couldn't be happier. I pull my heating element out after every brew for cleaning. Takes all of about 30 seconds. The recommended hole size is 1-1/2" but 1-3/8" works just fine. In fact, I have been considering replacing my current 1/2" ball valve with some type of TC based valve for ease of cleaning and disassembly but just haven't gotten around to it yet.

 

[camcdonald1]

Thanks @srice, I think I'll go with the option you've laid out. Although, will I be able to connect anything to the inside of the keg (dip tube) with this fitting?

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15rsf.htm

Also, what would I need to buy to add a 1/2" ball valve on the exterior of the kettle?

 

[srice]

Thanks @srice, I think I'll go with the option you've laid out. Although, will I be able to connect anything to the inside of the keg (dip tube) with this fitting?

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15rsf.htm

Also, what would I need to buy to add a 1/2" ball valve on the exterior of the kettle?

Take a look here for a TC dip tube - http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri_Clover_Dip_Tube_1.5_Inch.html

You can then add a TC valve on the end of the dip tube with this-
http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri_Clover_1.5_Inch_x_.5_Inch_NPT_Male.html
and any 1/2" NPT valve you may already have.

This setup will allow you to pull the dip tube and valve assembly out of your kettle in seconds.

I've got a DIY hop screen on my dip tube. Once I figure out a means for a quick connect on that, I am converting my keggle over to TC.

 

[1MadScientist]

Here's my 1 1/4" hole with one of Bobby's radiused flanges.

MS

 

[camcdonald1]

Thanks everyone for the help. I ordered the 1.5" TC radius flange, a clamp, o-ring, 1/2" NPT male adapter and silver solder kit from Bobby. Hoping to get those items soon so I can assemble and then post back an update.
I'm still unclear on my options for an interior dip tube. I'm thinking I might just find a tight fitting copper tube and shove it inside the flange. Not perfect but cheap and I think will get the job done.

 

[snackson]

Thanks everyone for the help. I ordered the 1.5" TC radius flange, a clamp, o-ring, 1/2" NPT male adapter and silver solder kit from Bobby. Hoping to get those items soon so I can assemble and then post back an update.
I'm still unclear on my options for an interior dip tube. I'm thinking I might just find a tight fitting copper tube and shove it inside the flange. Not perfect but cheap and I think will get the job done.

Expensive, but you could try this. http://www.morebeer.com/products/15-triclamp-rotating-racking-arm.html?site_id=5

Or this. http://www.morebeer.com/products/conical-racking-arm-sample-valve-assembly.html

 

[aces-n-eights]

Would one of these work?

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=519491

 

[idiotsinc]

I'm a little late getting back. Here's a couple pictures of my hole repair. The inner washer is a 1/2x2" stainless fender washer (the original hole was 1 3/4"). The outer is 1/2x2.5". Between the outer washer and the pot is a piece from a sheet of 3/16" high temp FDA silicone coated with high temp FDA silicone sealant. Holding it all together is an 1/2 stainless bolt. I then punched out a 1 1/4" hole for my element.