Help building my electic HLT?

[xumbi]

Greetings!

I have had this plastic (rubber?) covered keg in my possession for a few years:

A while back I removed the spear and used it to ferment 10 gallon batches, which worked fine, but I realized I'd rather use it as an electric HLT if possible.

Has anyone worked with a keg like this? How should I go about removing the plastic for the areas that will need cutting/drilling? Also, I don't have the equipment to do any cutting or drilling myself, how would I find someone locally who can?

Any suggestions on where I should order the parts from? This will be my first electric brewing endeavor... What heating element(s) should I buy since this won't be used for a full boil?

Thanks!

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

If you don't have the tools to cut it, do you have someone in your group of friends who does? I'm not sure where you'd take it to find someone to pay to do the work for you... or if they even would do it. I would use the same tool you use to cut the metal to cut the rubber, and just let it ride. If you turn it into a BK, you're going to need to cut holes for heating elements and dip tubes, which is going to be complicated with the rubber. For one, you couldn't use a punch with the rubber as it would likely clog it up. The second, and possibly larger issue - most of the weldless fittings are designed to clamp against a fairly thin slice of metal - the keg wall. Throw in a slice of rubber and who knows if you'll have enough thread-purchase to get everything snugged down nice and tight. If it were me, I'd try to trade for a different standard keg. If that's not an option, you'll just have to cut the rubber away from where you want your holes so you can tighten everything down. I have no idea how the rubber is attached, so it may be harder than you think to get it off in certian areas.

On the plus side, it should help keep the kettle insulated, which means a more efficient system for you!

 

[xumbi]

I think I'll ask my LHBS, I bet they will know who could help with the cutting.

I guess my first order of business will be to remove the rubber/plastic on the top, since all of that will need to be removed for the top. Then I should have a good idea of how to cut the other areas.

 

[orangehero]

Get as much rubber off as you can with a razor and chisel and clean up with a stainless wire wheel.

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

I wouldn't bother taking it off the top unless you plan to use a plasma cutter. If you use a grinder with a cut-off disk, it'll make short work of the rubber and leave you with a clean enough opening.

 

[stlbeer]

Search the DIY forum. I know I've seen a setup using these kegs and it's described quite well.

 

[xumbi]

Search the DIY forum. I know I've seen a setup using these kegs and it's described quite well.

You're right! I searched a bit before and didn't find anything, but after some advanced google-fu I did find a couple examples:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rubber-coated-kegs-235345/index2.html#post5092450
http://www.buttcrackbrewery.com/2012/02/25/insulated-kegmash-tun/

This is very encouraging, I'm looking forward to this project.

 

[xumbi]

This is an outlet in my kitchen about 10 feet from my porch where I'll be brewing. My panel shows it is 20A:



Is this a GFCI outlet? Is this outlet safe as is?

What heating element would be compatible? Since I'll only be using electric for my HLT and not full boils, I'm hoping I can get away without additional wiring or trying to access my 220v line somehow.

 

[danb35]

Yes, that's a GFCI outlet. You could use up to a 2000W 120V heating element, assuming there's nothing else using (i.e., drawing current from) that circuit at the time.

 

[xumbi]

Yes, that's a GFCI outlet. You could use up to a 2000W 120V heating element, assuming there's nothing else using (i.e., drawing current from) that circuit at the time.

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated. I'm going to start with a 2000W 120V element as you suggested, and if that doesn't do the job fast enough, add another. I have another GFCI outlet on a different circuit just as close if needed.

 

[tjr3000]

This is an outlet in my kitchen about 10 feet from my porch where I'll be brewing. My panel shows it is 20A:

Is this a GFCI outlet? Is this outlet safe as is?

What heating element would be compatible? Since I'll only be using electric for my HLT and not full boils, I'm hoping I can get away without additional wiring or trying to access my 220v line somehow.

That may have a 20a breaker, but that is a 15a GFCI outlet. If the building wire is 12 gauge, you can swap the outlet. Given the breaker, it had better be 12 gauge wire...

 

[xumbi]

That may have a 20a breaker, but that is a 15a GFCI outlet. If the building wire is 12 gauge, you can swap the outlet. Given the breaker, it had better be 12 gauge wire...

Good to know. How can you tell from the picture?

I will be sure to check the gauge of wire before buying an element or installing a new outlet.

 

[tjr3000]

Good to know. How can you tell from the picture?

I will be sure to check the gauge of wire before buying an element or installing a new outlet.

A 20a outlet has one plug that looks like a sideways T. It is designed to take either a 15a or a 20a plug. Normal plugs, like you see on most countertop appliances, are 15a plugs. A 20a plug has one vertical and be horizontal blade.

 

[xumbi]

A 20a outlet has one plug that looks like a sideways T. It is designed to take either a 15a or a 20a plug. Normal plugs, like you see on most countertop appliances, are 15a plugs. A 20a plug has one vertical and be horizontal blade.

Got it, thanks again.

 

[sasky7777]

Save yourself one hole and make it a bottom drain.

 

[xumbi]

Save yourself one hole and make it a bottom drain.

Yes that is my current plan, turn it upside down and find a way to attach a stainless ball valve.

I have the sanke fermenter kit from Brewers Hardware which will give me at least the tri clover clamp that I need. Then I need to find a NPT which will take a ball valve, which I think would be this:

http://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-Clover-X-1-2-Male-NPT.html

 

[LordUlrich]

My 2 cents:

The triclover to MPT adaptor you linked to should work.

For not having the right tool I would use a hole saw in a drill, a hole saw is fairly cheap and drills are common tools. use a razor blade to cut back any of the rubber you need to.

I would wire up your element with a 20 amp plug (the kind with one blade sideways). Change out the GFCI if your wiring allows. Using the right plug prevents you from accidentally putting it in a circuit you shouldn't, it also ensures the GFCI is rated properly for your power draw.

I like the bargain fittings lock nut and gasket kit. http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=95

A 2000 Watt element from the local home improvement store should be just fine.

I would enclose the wire side of the element in a metal outdoor electrical box (similar to The Electric Brewery), it makes it far easier to change if you mess up and dry fire an element or something.

And last be absolutely sure it doesn't leak, in particular around the electric stuff. It can't be said enough water and electricity are a dangerous combination. I would also use an ohm meter and check the resistance between the kettle and ground pin to be near 0 (1 ohm is probably ok)