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Irick

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May 19, 2015
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Hi all. I'm fairly new to brewing, on my 3rd batch now, and I'm already hooked. I've been reading the forums since I first decided to try my hand at brewing and decided I should finally introduce myself.
So far I've only done extract kits but want to move to all grain. Would you suggest doing biab?
Thanks all
 
Welcome! What part of KY are you from?

I haven't tried BIAB yet, but I know there are a lot of HBers that swear by it. You'll find some really good instructional threads on it.
 
Yeah, what area of KY? I need more homebrewing friends. I do 5gal BIAB every weekend and I've got hundreds of bottles and a lot of experience to share...
 
I BIAB and love it. It's a very simple upgrade from extract. If you later decide to switch to traditional, the only part that doesn't carry over is the grain bag. Even that can still be used to strain hops or trub.
 
Welcome to HBT.

I can't comment on BIAB, but I started using the cooler mash tun method and have a word of caution. I went with a split boil so that I could brew on the stove. It worked, but it complicated the process. So I personally wouldn't recommend a split boil.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone. I've been going back and forth on biab or cooler mash tun, still not decided which route to go.
I'm in Lexington, KY
 
You came to the right place to get ideas & help. I do pb/pm biab in the same 5 gallon kettle I started with. But since my partial mashes have gotten up to some 8.7lbs, AG isn't that far off. I think you'll enjoy it more with an outside propane burner & a decent size kettle for the biab process. Less equipment with biab makes it very attractive to many of us! :tank:
 
Thanks unionrdr. I've already got a large kettle and an outside propane burner so I'm thinking I'll start with biab. I figure if I move on to all grain I'm only out the cost of the bags.
 
I'll throw out a big reason I didn't go with BIAB. A pH meter sounds like a big hassle, so I wanted to brew without one. BIAB is typically a full volume mash (no sparge or minimal). I feel that having a thick mash will help control the pH since the grains are the buffer. I just used Bru'n Water and added acid malt as needed for the pH. I've never actually read that this theory is correct - maybe someone can confirm or dispute this.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone. I've been going back and forth on biab or cooler mash tun, still not decided which route to go.
I'm in Lexington, KY

Welcome!
I did extract back in the early 80's for about 5 years and then stopped because of many reasons. I started back All Grain (AG 5gal) using Cooler MLT, 120V RIMS, Kettle, and Lautering Grant about a year ago. A lot depends on budget, time, and (present) personal preferences. Then there is the quantity of beer to consider, which effects each of above (2.5+, 5, 10, and 10+ gallons). My plan over the next year is to expand my 5 gal "toys" as well as explore 2.5+ gal BIAB.
 
I'll throw out a big reason I didn't go with BIAB. A pH meter sounds like a big hassle, so I wanted to brew without one. BIAB is typically a full volume mash (no sparge or minimal). I feel that having a thick mash will help control the pH since the grains are the buffer. I just used Bru'n Water and added acid malt as needed for the pH. I've never actually read that this theory is correct - maybe someone can confirm or dispute this.

As I've said before, with my own experiences so far, biab doesn't have to be a full volume mash, although it can be. I do partial boil, partial mash biab & it works fine. With big partial mashes of, say 8.6lbs of grain in my 5 gallon kettle, thick mashes are sometimes a necessity. That also seems to work rather well. I used a bit of acidulated malt in my kottbusser recipe. It was intended to give that very dry, hint of sweetness on the back that some mistake for a sour,...at least that's my theory...
 

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