Heatstick = awesome!

[Dadslackey]

My goal is to use the heatstick during the boil - to at least reduce the amount of propane used. I'm not worried about my HLT at all, it only drops a degree per hour. I am also building a 1500w/120v version - which seems safer to me, but not as aggressive. My biggest batches start out at 13.5 gallons.

 

[BetterSense]

I just went to Lowes and bought all the stuff to make one of these, but I'm kind of bummed that the total came to $48 with tax. That's just too much for parts to make something homemade which I might even screw up. I think I will take it all back. I'm bummed because I was hoping I could use this to maintain my 5-gallon boil instead of running propane for an hour, and I could use it to heat up my BIAB sparge water, but $50 is pushing it. I hear people claim they did it for $30, but I don't know how.

1500W Element $10
10 foot 14/3 cord $14
12" Brass pipe thing $7.50
JB weld $6
1 1/2 twisti to 1 1/2 glue PVC connector $2.50
PVC cap $.83
PVC street elbow $1.56
Brass screws $2.40

 

[Bill33525]

Some guys probably have a line cord and select the Zinc/Chrome pipe and fittings, not sure what the brass screws are for. That would bring the cost back into the $30 range.
Anyway, you will save so much on Propane that the $48 will seem like chump change after a short time. 1500 watts will keep a boil going, however, if you want a vigorous boil just a little propane will be necessary. You are on the right track and your $18 extra overhead for the heat stick is only one tank of Propane.

 

[BetterSense]

After reading through this gigantic thread, it seems a 1500W stick won't keep a 5 gallon batch (from a ~7 gallon boil) boiling by itself anyway, so I might as well hold off until I can afford to run 50A 240 to the garage. I have a feeling my cheap burner is pretty inefficient when it's turned way down.

 

[rellot]

two 1500 sticks work if you have two separate lines in the garage. It takes a while, but I can do 10 gallon batches with them.

I think the $30 price is back when things were cheaper. I think my first one cost about that to build, but the second one (and one I made for another person) cost close to $50

 

[seabass07]

Mine certainly wasn't $50. It ended up around $30 when I built it a few months ago. The 2000w element can boil 7 gallons on it's own. But it splashes too much for my liking.

 

[CGVT]

My first all electric brew day, and yes, heatstick=awsome!

Two 110 2000 w heatsticks

 

[mrgstiffler]

My first all electric brew day, and yes, heatstick=awsome!

Two 110 2000 w heatsticks

Give us some details on how the brew day went!

 

[CGVT]

I'm still in the middle of it-20 minutes left in the boil, but it has been soooooo much better than propane.

I built one stick with a 90 degree angle and an elbow so I could hang it, the other is straight. I have light switches on both so that I can turn them off without unplugging them. I mashed in and my temp was a little low so I used the straight stick to bring the temp up. I stired the mash-no apparent scorching. I used it a couple of times during the mash. It was kind of a poor man's RIM. Ha! I heated my sparge water with the other stick.

It took about a half hour to get my wort to a boil but I can maintain a 7 gal boil with one in my 10 gal kettle. I have used both for most of the boil because it more vigorous. When I approached hot break, I just turned one off.

It is so freaking quiet! And there is so much less heat.

If you haven't built these. Do it. Now!

 

[seabass07]

I've used mine in my mash several times with no problem. But the last time I did, my mash was thicker than normal and it scorched pretty bad even with constant stirring. So be careful if you go thicker than normal, like 1.1 lb/qt.

 

[CGVT]

I've used mine in my mash several times with no problem. But the last time I did, my mash was thicker than normal and it scorched pretty bad even with constant stirring. So be careful if you go thicker than normal, like 1.1 lb/qt.

Thanks for the warning. My mash was pretty normal, maybe a bit thin.

I am absolutely happy with the results so far, though.

 

[Satisfaction]

Been meaning to post here for a couple weeks.. I built one for my stove top brews and absolutely love it. With the 1500w stick I now run 5 gallon brews on my stove and keep the propane in the garage.

Please pay attention to all the warnings when building these. I've seen first hand at work the awesome power of uncontrolled electricity and even the smallest amounts can be very dangerous.

 

[cobolstinks]

So ive skimmed this post, but am a little confused. How do you control the output on these sticks? Or is there just two settings on/off? I have 2 GFI outlets in my garage but they are 110v can i use those outlets?

Thanks!

 

[BetterSense]

The only way to control the output is to build some kind of PWM controller with a relay. I think most people just use them at 100% and employ their internal fat-based controller.

 

[Satisfaction]

So ive skimmed this post, but am a little confused. How do you control the output on these sticks? Or is there just two settings on/off? I have 2 GFI outlets in my garage but they are 110v can i use those outlets?

Thanks!

If you are looking for control, check out the electric brewing section of the forum. You will find all those details in there on how to properly do it..

Please read the instructions carefully, depending on your breaker amperage and wire gauge thickness you may not be able to support the amp draw for two heat sticks.

 

[CGVT]

I put inline light swithes on mine. It is only on off, but I've found that two 2000w (110) will get a vigerous boil in my 10gal pot. Once I get to a boil I can use one for a moderate boil. I put the switches in so that if it looked as if I would boil over, I could just hit the switch rather than fumble with an extension cord and unplug the stick. Once I passed the hot break stage, I turn them both back on for my boil.

It works great.

Heatstick=Awsome!

this video shows them working (after the hot break) in about 6.5 gallons (double click on the picture for the vid)

 

[alestateyall]

Today I tested my new 1500W heatstick.

After about 1.5 hours in 200+ F water (heatstick wouldn't hold boil by itself) the element has discoloration (golden color) and has many white spots.

The base of the stick (except the actual element) is covered by a liberal layer of waterweld (JB Weld's drinking water safe epoxy).

Do other folks see discoloration on the heating element?

 

[alestateyall]

I have (2) 1300 watt sticks that plug right into my breaker panel. I use both sticks to initiate the boil [generally 7 gallons] which is rather violent. Using one stick afterwards will hold a pretty good boil for a while, but I usually switch back to 2 sticks. My guess would be 2KW to hold a good boil with 8 gallons.

I also wrap my kettle in a moving blanket to save heat loss. Hope this helps.

Bill33525, how do you plug right into your breaker panel? What type part do you use to do that?

 

[djt17]

Do other folks see discoloration on the heating element?

Yes

 

[s2cmpugh]

After reading thru all the pages, I have some questions:

1. The outlet next to my stove and the outlet on my back porch where I brew is serviced by a 15AMP circuit (non-gfci, but I can easliy fix that). What's the recommended wattage on a heating element I can use on that circuit for 15Amp 120V?

2. I only plan to use this thing to heat up mash and sparge water. Will the recommended wattage for a 15A 120V circuit be enough to heat up about 4-5 gallons of water to 180ish? I will boil outside using my turkey fryer.

3. Should I use 14guage wiring or 12guage wiring based on the capacity of my circuit?

4. This might seem kind of far out there, but what if I grounded the pot by using an alligator clamp, clamped onto the pot, (simliar to one used to jump start a car) run heavy guage wire to the ground wire in the heat stick and then connect that to the ground wire already in the cable? Would this make it safer? (sorry if that sounds confusing, but basically "connecting" the pot to the grounded portion of the GFCI plug)

Thanks!

 

[BetterSense]

1. The outlet next to my stove and the outlet on my back porch where I brew is serviced by a 15AMP circuit (non-gfci, but I can easliy fix that). What's the recommended wattage on a heating element I can use on that circuit for 15Amp 120V?

1500W

3. Should I use 14guage wiring or 12guage wiring based on the capacity of my circuit?

14ga should be sufficient, but you can never use too big of wire.

4. This might seem kind of far out there, but what if I grounded the pot by using an alligator clamp, clamped onto the pot, (simliar to one used to jump start a car) run heavy guage wire to the ground wire in the heat stick and then connect that to the ground wire already in the cable? Would this make it safer? (sorry if that sounds confusing, but basically "connecting" the pot to the grounded portion of the GFCI plug)

Sounds like a good idea if you think it's necessary/worth it.

 

[rellot]

This file will help.

change the file name from .pdf to .xls can't attach .xls files here.

 

[rellot]

sorry, i need to post it online first I will give the link in a minute.

 

[rellot]

Okay this should work, let me know if it doesn't. I can post it as a .xls on dropbox. It was too big to upload here.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/50140910/ElectricHeat.xls

 

[s2cmpugh]

Okay this should work, let me know if it doesn't. I can post it as a .xls on dropbox. It was too big to upload here.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/50140910/ElectricHeat.xls

I'll give it a try tomorrow at work as I don't have Excel on my home computer. What exactly does it do?

 

[s2cmpugh]

So I did some calculations real quick here:

For me to raise 4.5 gallons of water from roughly 60F to 180F requires 4,509 btus. My 1500Watt element produces 5,121 btus equivalent. In theory, that element should raise my water temp to 180F in less than an hour...does this sound right?

 

[rellot]

open office will open it as well for free -- google it

it's just a spreadsheet someone put together that has helpful calculations on it for the questions you are asking.

 

[s2cmpugh]

open office will open it as well for free -- google it

it's just a spreadsheet someone put together that has helpful calculations on it for the questions you are asking.

Awesome spreadsheet, thank you!

Another question I thought of; it might be cheaper for me to purchase wire/cable by the foot with seperate plugs instead of buying a whole extension cord and hacking it up. would going this route still be ok or is an extension cord the appropiate gauge better?

Also, lets say I want to wire this to a switch in line? Possible?

Thanks!

 

[cyclogenesis]

Okay this should work, let me know if it doesn't. I can post it as a .xls on dropbox. It was too big to upload here.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/50140910/ElectricHeat.xls

Great spreadsheet! Thanks!

 

[rellot]

depends I guess, check the prices in your area. it has always been cheaper for me to buy an extension cord. The cord is cheaper, but the ends make the price more.

some people put a switch on the line, but I just unplug, i've never had a problem with that method, my outlets are right by the brew kettle.