Hazy IPA failure

[zbrews34]

Hi there, I am fairly new to homebrewing and this my first post here.
I recently brewed a Hazy IPA which was a complete bust. I was hoping to get some feedback to figure out what I did wrong.
The beer right before bottling was a beautiful super hazy hoppy IPA that tasted like orange zest and dank pineapple with a hint of vanilla. At which point after we bottled everything went horribly wrong. The beer was not carbonated and didn't bottle ferment at all. It got darker and the weirdest part is the beer became completely clarified and looks almost filtered. The taste became overly sweet (probably the priming sugar that didn't ferment) and lacked the hop character that it had before.
It seems the yeast completely floculated and absorbed all the haze with it because there is thick grey sludge at the bottom of every bottle.
I used a local yeast strain Le Labo Brume Londonienne.
Temp 17 - 23°C
Attenuation 71-75%
Floculation HIGH
We left the bottles in the dark at 24°C.
Did I put in the priming sugar too hot? I boiled the water with the sugar then put it pretty much right in.
Attached is a photo of the final pour.
Any thoughts or theories would be greatly appreciated.

 

[kh54s10]

Turning dark is probably oxidation. The effect is worse in highly hopped beers.
The clarity?
Not sure of the yeast but don't think any yeast will totally drop out of solution. Try using a less flocculant variety.
The beers not carbonating? If you added the sugar they should have carbonated. How long did the bottles condition?
The temperature of the priming sugar shouldn't have been an issue. I pour the priming sugar into my beers while the siphon is going straight from the stove.

Hope others have more/better answers. I am curious too.

 

[Iseneye]

Others may chime in but I don't think IPAs should be bottled. Definitely oxidation in that picture.

Not sure why it didn't carbonate. When I used to bottle I put the boiled priming sugar in the bottom of the bottling bucket and racked directly onto that and didn't have issues with carbonation.

 

[Dgallo]

Without knowing your process it will be hard to tell you what went wrong. Like other said, oxygen is the culprit of your color change. There are many things that can cause your beer to pick up oxygen and most of them center around your transfers post fermentation, Storage temps and bottling temps, and also not properly filling bottles. If you don’t have a a bottling wond, get one. They will help you eliminate splashing at bottling. Now why it cleared up could also be a list of things. A lack of high protein grains and your yeast selection could be the problem. Your carb problem is that you didn’t use enough priming sugar or that maybe you forgot to add it. You may have also kept Your bottles too cold for the yeast to eat your priming sugar. If you give us a better idea of what you did, A lot of people on here will be able to help you. Also if you have the funds to keg, that will help you with NE IPA’s. Oxygen is the killer of this style. If you tighten up your process and avoid oxygen contact post fermentation you’ll get truer colors

 

[Dgallo]

Sorry didn’t read the bottom of your post about the priming sugar. How much priming sugar did you add and for how long did you let it sit until at that temp.(your temps were fine for bottle conditioning)

 

[TGFV]

Seconding on how long did you let them carbon up?

Also, lots of beers can drop clear on their own depending on a lot of factors from the grain bill and fluke. I've had 75% wheat hefe go near krystal in the fermenter before while also had 15%wheat dark mild you couldn't see light through.

What was your grain bill?
What adjunct did you use?
What was your fermentation and hop schedule?
Were these swing top or capped?
What's the abv%

I would also think of there is a huge amount of sludge (more than usual for bottle carbing) then it may have not finished up clearing and did so in the bottles

 

[Jag75]

Agreed , oxidation and I'm also on the side not to bottle ipa unless you bottle from a keg with a gun . And even then I'd drink really fast .

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Your oxygenation issue can be solved. Be happy you didn't get the dreaded butter flavor from diacetyl!

 

[zbrews34]

Hey guys, thanks so much for all the responses. I have had problems with oxidization in the past and so I'm not completely convinced this was the case for this beer since we were very careful while bottling. After fermentation (1week) we transferred the beer into a conditioning tank for 2 weeks. After the two weeks the beer was still amazingly hazy. Was two week too long for conditioning?
@TGFV
Below is more details of the brew:
ABV 6.2%
6kg 2 row 70.6%
1kg flakes oats 11.8%
1kg flaked wheat 11.8%
0.5kg lactose 5.9%
28g columbus pellets boil 60 minutes
112g citra pellets dry hop
112g ekuanot pellets dry hop
112g Amarillo pellets dry hop
Yeast le labo brume londonienne
Mash target 68°C for 1hr 30
Boil for 60 minutes added lactose @ 30 minutes
Cooled down to 77°C added 1st hop addition 56g each of citra ekuanot amarillo.
Cooled to 22°c then pitched yeast.
Next day added 28g each of citra ekuanot amarillo.
One week later transferred to conditioning tank and added last hop addition 28gs each of citra ekuanot amarillo. Waited two weeks then bottled with 1/2 cup of white sugar for 18.5L of beer. Left the bottles for another two weeks at 24°C

 

[Dgallo]

Hey guys, thanks so much for all the responses. I have had problems with oxidization in the past and so I'm not completely convinced this was the case for this beer since we were very careful while bottling. After fermentation (1week) we transferred the beer into a conditioning tank for 2 weeks. After the two weeks the beer was still amazingly hazy. Was two week too long for conditioning?
@TGFV

You’re pulling your beer off your yeast too soon. You shouldn’ttransfer from primary til at least 10 days. Or 3 days after hitting your Fg. The yeast needs time to clean up the beer Now you can condition as long as you want, however for a NE IPA time is of the essence and the fresher the better.

 

[Steve-Ooo]

I'd skip the secondary and just give it 3 weeks on the yeast cake then bottle.

 

[IslandLizard]

After fermentation (1week) we transferred the beer into a conditioning tank for 2 weeks

7 days may be OK or a bit short. I've had good beer (NEIPAs) 5 days after pitching, but they were better after 7-10 days.

• What kind of conditioning tank is that?
• How did you transfer?
• How much oxygen exposure was there along the way and during conditioning?
• And again when bottling?

Hoppy beers need to be handled oxygen free to keep them at their best. Any O2 exposure after fermentation has started will contribute to oxidizing reactions which dull (hop) aroma and flavor and darken your beer.