having trouble finding consistent answers to these questions

[Puddlethumper]

Do you think the sediment would be as high with this being a pure malted extract (i.e. no grain) brew, with no specialty grains or anything? Basically just Muntons from the can? I don't know how the chemistry works, really, but the only 'sedimentary' elements would be the sugar and the yeast that I pitched.

It's my first go, so I'm allowed to ask these elementary questions, right?

If you didn't move the beer to a secondary vessel after a week or two of fermentation, then you will have a whole bunch of stuff in the bottom of your fermenter. Most of it will be spent yeast cells. That little packet of yeast you pitched spent a bunch of time making babies during fermentation and then, when they were done, they expired and dropped to the bottom of your fermenter. At the end of the fermentation it isn't unusual to find a layer an inch or two thick in the bottom of the primary fermenter. We call that the "yeast cake".

 

[TxBigHops]

That brings up an interesting point. The spigot on my bottling bucket is about an inch higher than the bottom of the bucket, and I'm wondering if at bottling time, I should bother with anything beneath the spigot, or if that's all just going to be a mess of settled yeast and sediment. Any thoughts on that? Should I tip it forward to get that last drop outta there, or should I consider that collateral damage? Haha.

Just to clarify, you earlier stated that you were going to ferment in the bottling bucket, and several replies recommended that you not do that, and to use your primary. I think you mentioned that you had a carboy, but I don't think you said what size. So which did you end up using to ferment? If you ferment in the carboy, then rack to the bottling bucket, and are relatively careful with your siphon, you should have very little sediment in the bottom of your bucket. In this case, you will want to attach a dip tube to the back of the spigot assembly to get almost every last drop without having to tip the bucket.

If you haven't found it yet, Revvy's bottling tips thread is a must read for all n00bs. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/bottling-tips-homebrewer-94812/

This thread shows one type of dip tube. In other threads you will see another recommendation for using a pvc elbow that can be purchased at your local hardware or big box home improvement store for about a dollar. I bought one with a 3/4 inch interior diameter threaded and 1/2 inch non threaded on the other end. I had to remove some material from the half inch end, and then sanded it down a bit more until it just barely cleared the bottom of the bucket. The 3/4 inch threaded end screwed directly onto the back of my spigot. I could stick a finger nail into the space between the elbow and the bottom of the bucket, but not much more. I bottled my first batch last week and that sucker picked up all but about 2 ounces of the beer in the bucket. I was stoked! :rockin: It's one of the few things I did right with my first batch!

 

[knightsoftheround]

"Question 3- carboy/secondary fermenting. You don't need to do a rack to a secondary, but can just let it sit in the primary longer. Main reason most people rack, because they always have. 2nd reason for racking - to add something to the beer - dry hopping, fruit, etc. I generally will go 3 weeks in the primary and bottle."

So it looks like I read this, interpreted it as "You've no reason to rack this to another container" so I fermented it in the container that would be used for bottling.

I hope that doesn't ruin anything.

 

[TxBigHops]

Can you ferment in your bottling bucket? Sure you can, but I doubt that many here do. Main reason is that you're probably going to have a lot of difficulty keeping the trub that will settle out from going into your bottles. Also, you will now have to individually prime each of your bottles for carbonation.

Certainly there are as many different ways to brew as there are people who brew, but probably the most common equipment setup for doing 5 gallon batches would include a primary fermentation container, typically a 6-7 gallon bucket (usually without a spigot) or a 6 gallon carboy, a 5 gallon carboy for a secondary when needed, and a bottling bucket with a spigot.

Lots of kit instructions will tell you to start your fermentation in your primary, then once fermentation is mostly completed (about 3-7 days), rack your beer to the secondary container (for another 5-14 days) to finish and clear up. That's what the other member you quoted was referring to, that many here think the rack to secondary is not necessary. You can just as easily leave your beer in the primary for the entire fermentation of most beers, unless there is a good reason to rack it to a secondary. I don't think he was expecting you to interpret his advice as telling you not to rack your beer to the bottling bucket when it was finished fermenting. He was simply saying you didn't need to rack to a secondary intermediate fermentation container during the fermentation process.

Is your beer ruined due to fermenting in the bottling bucket? It will probably be just fine. Most likely result is that many of the bottles will have a little more sediment than you would like. Just refrigerate them for several days before drinking to drop the sediment to the bottom of the bottle, and then pour the beer carefully into the glass, trying to leave moat of the sediment behind, before drinking. You will probably not want to be drinking this beer directly from the bottle.

 

[knightsoftheround]

Would it make sense to rack to my other container at this point, let it continue there until bottling time, and then use the siphon with the bottling wand attached to it for bottling? Think it's too late?

 

[Puddlethumper]

Would it make sense to rack to my other container at this point, let it continue there until bottling time, and then use the siphon with the bottling wand attached to it for bottling? Think it's too late?

You can usually move your beer anytime you need to (after fermentation is completed) but there are a couple of things to keep in mind when you do.

1. Whenever you open the fermenter lid and start messing with the beer you introduce the risk of contamination with bad yeast/bacteria/etc. So get all your equipment and your hands clean and sanitized before you start. Extra diligence toward sanitation is very important.
2. There is some risk of oxidation of the beer. Try not to slosh it around. Keep the end of the siphon hose below the surface of the beer in the second vessel.
3. And, most importantly, transfer to a vessel that is just slightly bigger than the amount of beer you are moving. You want to minimize the amount of open headspace above the beer. That is why most people use a 5 gal. carboy or bucket for their secondary vessel.

 

[knightsoftheround]

So I tested the gravity on Tuesday and tested again tonight and it's reading was the same. Gave it a taste both times. I don't know what it's supposed to taste like at this point but if I had to describe it, I'd say like flat beer that's a little on the weak side (drinkable though). Not entirely flat, mind you. There were enough bubbles to make a bit of foam in the tube. I wonder if I should leave it to ferment longer or if it would be just as well to go ahead and bottle it...


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[boydster]

Since both readings were the same, as long as it is close to your target FG I would bottle it up.

 

[knightsoftheround]

I mean, do I have that much further control over final gravity at this point?

OG was around 1.04, now it's reading around 1.01...

Have I brewed a light beer? Hahahaha.

 

[Puddlethumper]

"Question 3- carboy/secondary fermenting. You don't need to do a rack to a secondary, but can just let it sit in the primary longer. Main reason most people rack, because they always have. 2nd reason for racking - to add something to the beer - dry hopping, fruit, etc. I generally will go 3 weeks in the primary and bottle."

For what its worth, there are two very distinct and strongly held views on this subject. I wouldn't just go along with the prevailing wisdom until you've spent some time reading, thinking and perhaps experimenting to see which approach you feel fits your brewing best. I'd suggest a book, "Brew Like a Pro", c 2012, David Miller.

 

[Scratch]

...I don't know what it's supposed to taste like at this point but if I had to describe it, I'd say like flat beer that's a little on the weak side (drinkable though)...I wonder if I should leave it to ferment longer or if it would be just as well to go ahead and bottle it...

Earlier today I tried the first bottle of a batch that I bottled a week ago (I usually plan to wait at least two weeks, but I popped one today because, you know...for science.) Anyway, it tasted great. When I tasted it just before bottling it tasted like the runoff when I spray the grass off the underside of my lawn mower. So at this point I wouldn't draw any conclusions.

Regarding bottling from the same vessel you fermented in, I'm looking at your kit and wondering whether you could bottle from the carboy. (That looks like a pretty nice kit, by the way.) Based on my somewhat limited experience, I wouldn't try to bottle from the fermenter (your bucket, in this case.) There's just too much gunk at the bottom and it will get kicked up very easily. If you transfer to the carboy, a little sediment will be transferred but if you're careful you can leave most of it behind. Then let the carboy sit for a while, and what sediment there is will settle out and you can keep most of it out of your bottles.

If you do choose to transfer to another vessel for bottling (carboy or whatever,) remember to add the bottling sugar solution to the new vessel before you transfer the beer in.

When I bottle from a bucket that has a pickup an inch or so above the bottom, I will gently prop up the opposite side of the bucket a few inches when I get down to the last couple bottles, so the remaining beer pools around the pickup. If you do this carefully you can keep any remaining sediment from collecting down there.

About that Munton's kit: there's a reason your brew store probably carries dozens of kits. They're a great way to start. And if you choose to advance in this hobby you will have the pleasure of refining your process and ingredients to take your beer in whatever direction you want to go.

Good luck!

 

[TxBigHops]

I mean, do I have that much further control over final gravity at this point?

OG was around 1.04, now it's reading around 1.01...

Have I brewed a light beer? Hahahaha.

It's not light beer, cause the carbs and calories are too high. In craft brewing, we call it a session beer. 1.040-1.010 = .030 x 131 = ABV of 3.93%.

Most of us read our gravities to the 1/1000th place. I just finished brewing today and my OG was 1.056. If your 1.04 was actually 1.042 and your FG was 1.009, then your ABV would be 4.32%, so it makes a difference how accurately you read your hydrometer.

 

[knightsoftheround]

Truthfully, of all the awesome things my kit came with, my one gripe is that it lacked a clip to hold the siphon to the side of the bucket.

The only thing I did incorrectly was add the priming sugar to the beer after I had already transferred the beer over. I gave it a very thorough stirring with a sanitized stirrer, being very careful not to create any splashes or bubbles, what have you...


Yeah I wasn't 100% sure if I was reading the hydrometer right since that was the first time I had ever used one. So I guess we'll see! I have the bottles in a spare shower to contain any explosions, in case the worst happens..


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[knightsoftheround]

Hey guys. Just an update on my maiden voyage, here.

I bottled these suckers, waited a couple of weeks, refrigerated for a few days, and popped one to taste.

I was VERY discouraged by the first bottle. Little to no carbonation, which made it seem very dull to drink.

It's been, I think, a little over a week since that day, and I have to say, I think keeping it in the bottle longer has improved it. Significantly more carbonated than on my original taste test, nice thick head. Taste is maybe a TINY bit bready. But I'd say it's definitely drinkable. I feel like I've definitely got out of it what I paid to put into it, so I can't complain.

I know where I need to improve, what I did wrong this time, so I think the next batch can only get better. I'd rate this at a 5 out of 10. Not as good as a craft beer, but certainly as good if not better than whatever cheap beers you would drink.

 

[kidmeatball]

Nevermind

 

[knightsoftheround]

Basically just a muntons connoisseurs IPA bitter extract...used corn sugar for fermentation and priming. I didn't wanna complicate it much on my first rodeo..


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[pablosbrewing]

Didn't realize a "no boil" beer kit existed.

Charlie P. referred to this as "dump and stir" in his books. Back in the 60's and 70's he said it used to be a can of PBR malt, a can of table sugar, 5 gal of water and bread yeast - ferment was uncovered or maybe had a towel over it!

No boil on kit instructions was still really common in beer kits in the 90's when I started, I didn't realize any were still sold as no boil. Just a 15 minute boil will give you huge improvements.

 

[flars]

Hey guys. Just an update on my maiden voyage, here.

I bottled these suckers, waited a couple of weeks, refrigerated for a few days, and popped one to taste.

I was VERY discouraged by the first bottle. Little to no carbonation, which made it seem very dull to drink.

It's been, I think, a little over a week since that day, and I have to say, I think keeping it in the bottle longer has improved it. Significantly more carbonated than on my original taste test, nice thick head. Taste is maybe a TINY bit bready. But I'd say it's definitely drinkable. I feel like I've definitely got out of it what I paid to put into it, so I can't complain.

I know where I need to improve, what I did wrong this time, so I think the next batch can only get better. I'd rate this at a 5 out of 10. Not as good as a craft beer, but certainly as good if not better than whatever cheap beers you would drink.

Good to hear. Your next one will be a bit more relaxing and fun.

 

[TxBigHops]

Hey guys. Just an update on my maiden voyage, here.

I bottled these suckers, waited a couple of weeks, refrigerated for a few days, and popped one to taste.

I was VERY discouraged by the first bottle. Little to no carbonation, which made it seem very dull to drink.

It's been, I think, a little over a week since that day, and I have to say, I think keeping it in the bottle longer has improved it. Significantly more carbonated than on my original taste test, nice thick head. Taste is maybe a TINY bit bready. But I'd say it's definitely drinkable. I feel like I've definitely got out of it what I paid to put into it, so I can't complain.

I know where I need to improve, what I did wrong this time, so I think the next batch can only get better. I'd rate this at a 5 out of 10. Not as good as a craft beer, but certainly as good if not better than whatever cheap beers you would drink.

Congratulations! I consider beer #1 to be a learning experience (having just done so myself) and if you get drinkable beer, then that's a plus. The key is just what you have stated, you know where you made mistakes and you know what to do differently with beer #2. If you haven't done so already, I strongly suggest you make beer #2 as soon as possible. A few weeks ago I cracked the top on the first beer of my first batch, and like you I was highly disappointed due to no carbonation. I was pretty scared they would all be like that. Well now they are not only carbed up, but they're pretty darn tasty. Funny thing is, beer #2 which I brewed two weeks later was actually carbed and ready to drink before #1, due to being a lower OG beer.

So keep up the good fight. Soon your friends will be begging to have some of your beers.

 

[ACbrewer]

Charlie P. referred to this as "dump and stir" in his books. Back in the 60's and 70's he said it used to be a can of PBR malt, a can of table sugar, 5 gal of water and bread yeast - ferment was uncovered or maybe had a towel over it!

No boil on kit instructions was still really common in beer kits in the 90's when I started, I didn't realize any were still sold as no boil. Just a 15 minute boil will give you huge improvements.

Yeah these are still sold. Basically Mr. Beer is one of these, and some of the Coopers kits and others are.

The biggest reason to boil an Extract (dme/lme) is hop flavor extraction. Hops won't give flavor right without a good boil. Some would say sanitation, but the LME/DME is sanatized coming off production, so it isn't needed, and with a coopers/mr.beer/other there is often recomendation for boiling but this is more for disolving that strictly santiation.

Anyhow you can get a wort in probaby 20 mins with a no boil. But that limits the beer's end flavor to the flavor going in.

 

[flars]

Some Coopers and Muntons no boil kits are prehopped. You do not want to boil prehopped extract. The end result will be bitter with no flavor.

No boil kits were designed for climates and situations where the resources for cooling a boiled wort was hard to come by. This was a fairly big market niche not to long ago. Tradition, cost, and the same lack of resources keeps the no boil kit in the market place.