having trouble finding consistent answers to these questions

[knightsoftheround]

I've searched for answers to my questions in related threads, but don't seem to be finding any that really match my scenario, per se. So I thought I'd share with you guys my situation, in hopes that you could point me in the right direction.

I'm sure some of this is the same redundant stuff that every newbie brings to the table, so apologies in advance. I just want to make sure I don't COMPLETELY screw up my first batch.

I received this home brewing kit for my birthday: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BU7CVM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I also received a 6 gallon stainless steel pot.

I went to my local homebrew shop, who suggested for my first attempt, to try one of the extract kits, as it will get me acquainted with all of this new, fancy equipment. I asked if I required anything else for the brew, and they suggested 2 x 1lb bags of corn sugar.

So I've got a can of Munton's Connoisseurs IPA Bitter, and two 1lb bags of corn sugar.

Step one is to thoroughly sanitize everything. I've got that.

It then says to add the malt extract (softened by putting the can under hot water) to the fermenting bucket, and pour in 3.5 liters of boiling water and stir it up. Easy enough.

It then says to add 1kg (2.2lbs) of sugar (preferably brewing sugar).

QUESTION 1) Is this step referring to the corn sugar I purchased? If so, do I need more if I was sold only 2 lbs and it calls for 2.2lbs?? I don't know whether there's any "wiggle room" in home brewing when it comes to measurements. Or is it perhaps referring to some other kind of sugar altogether? The homebrew shop essentially sent me out the door with the 2 lbs of corn sugar and the extract can saying "This is all you need" and I'm beginning to doubt that.

It then says to stir everything thoroughly until it's all dissolved through. Okay. Then it says to fill with cold water to bring up to 6 US gallons, and then allow to cool to approx. 65-70 degrees.

Then pitch yeast. and stir.

It then says to allow the fermentation to do its thing. (fermentation is complete when bubbles cease to rise). It also gives the option of using a hydrometer and when gravity remains constant at a number below 1008.

QUESTION 2) Should I simply give it the 4-6 days to ferment, or should I learn to use this hydrometer and use that? I have one, it came with my kit, so if it would yield better results, I think I should use that, right? It looks like the general consensus is to wait longer than the can suggests for fermentation.

If I use a hydrometer, do I just siphon out a bit to test the gravity periodically? How much beer am I tossing out by doing this?

It then states to siphon the beer into strong bottles or a pressure barrel.

QUESTION 3) So for something as basic as using an extract kit, am I essentially bypassing the use of the carboy, and doing all of the fermenting in the bucket? It doesn't mention a single thing in the kit's instructions on transferring to a carboy (unless the "pressure barrel" above is an a.k.a. for that, but I don't think it is). Am I essentially going from bucket to bottles here?

Next step says to add half a teaspoon of sugar per pint to each bottle.

QUESTION 4) Is the sugar I add to each bottle different from the 2lbs of corn sugar I was sold? I have a feeling I need quite a few pinches more sugar than I was sold, haha.

QUESTION 5) A beer bottle is 12oz, which is less than a pint. Seems like this would make it somewhat tricky in adding this measurement of sugar to the bottles. Hindsight tells me maybe it would have been easier to get something like pint bottles (swingtops or whatever). I have what I have, though, and didn't really pick it out. Do I need to adjust down if I'm putting this in 12oz glasses? I don't imagine this sugar can simply be added to the entire mix prior to bottling, could it?

Finally, it says to leave the bottles in a warm place for 2 days. Then it says to move them to a cool place for a couple of weeks, or until the beer has become more clear.

FINAL QUESTION: I assume warm place is essentially room temperature, 65-70%. But it doesn't really quantify what constitutes a "cool place". Out in my garage? It's winter and it generally hovers around the high 30s low 40s during the day, and in the 20s at night.

I hope you guys can help out. I'm super excited to get this party started, and just want to make sure I get the right kick out the door. Thanks!

 

[Conman13]

Read the sticky for some answers to the common questions:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/beginner-extract-brewing-howto-99139/

Edit: Didn't realize a "no boil" beer kit existed.

 

[johngaltsmotor]

1) Yes, the corn sugar they gave you is what to use for adding sugar content to beer. The taste and feel on the tongue is preferred by most people over table sugar. And the 2lb will be enough. There is LOTS of room to customize homebrew. It might lose a little on the ABV but likely only 0.2% or so.

2) The general rule of thumb is either A) use a hydrometer and when you have the same reading 3 days apart it is finished with primary fermentation or B) wait 3 weeks and it's normally safe to assume that fermentation is complete. When I use my hydrometer I simply sanitize it and dip it into the fermenter, but if there is krausen (foam) on top then you'll have to fill a tall narrow tube to put the hydrometer in (did it come with a glass tube?)

3) For your first brew I would skip the step of transferring to a carboy for "secondary" fermentation. This is just a clarifying step typically reserved for lagers or big beers (OG >1.080). You can simply leave the beer in the fermenter for 3 weeks and the same action will happen (heavier particles will settle out). There is nothing magical about moving it from one container to another. (Pressure barrel is another term for a keg.)

4) Yes, you would need more corn sugar for the bottling stage. You could reserve this from the 2lb you already bought but this would decrease your ABV another slight bit.

5) You can add it to the beer before bottling, it is actually preferred so that you get an even distribution and less chance that a bottle has too little or too much sugar. I would typically go with leaving them at room temp for a week and then a few weeks slightly cooler (basement temps, not garage). Ideally you want the yeast in the mid-50s to low-60s.

 

[knightsoftheround]

1) Yes, the corn sugar they gave you is what to use for adding sugar content to beer. The taste and feel on the tongue is preferred by most people over table sugar. And the 2lb will be enough. There is LOTS of room to customize homebrew. It might lose a little on the ABV but likely only 0.2% or so.

Okay, so I should be okay to run with just 2lbs. If I want to try maximizing the ABV, I may consider upping it to the recommended amount, then?

2) The general rule of thumb is either A) use a hydrometer and when you have the same reading 3 days apart it is finished with primary fermentation or B) wait 3 weeks and it's normally safe to assume that fermentation is complete. When I use my hydrometer I simply sanitize it and dip it into the fermenter, but if there is krausen (foam) on top then you'll have to fill a tall narrow tube to put the hydrometer in (did it come with a glass tube?)

It did come with a hydrometer and a glass tube.

4) Yes, you would need more corn sugar for the bottling stage. You could reserve this from the 2lb you already bought but this would decrease your ABV another slight bit.

So maybe it would behoove me to get another pack of corn sugar to not only match the suggested 1kg (i.e. 2.2lbs) of sugar during fermentation, but also for the bottling stage.

5) You can add it to the beer before bottling, it is actually preferred so that you get an even distribution and less chance that a bottle has too little or too much sugar. I would typically go with leaving them at room temp for a week and then a few weeks slightly cooler (basement temps, not garage). Ideally you want the yeast in the mid-50s to low-60s.

This is great news. So technically, I could add the sugar in a batch PRIOR to transferring it to the bottles? Just put it in and give it a stir?

Thanks a million for this info. I feel a little more confident with my first batch, now...

 

[NewWestBrewer]

When you bottle - leave the bottles at room temp (70) for 3 weeks then put some in the fridge for two days then enjoy.

 

[johngaltsmotor]

Yes, I would recommend getting another pound of corn sugar. Use the full 2.2lb suggested. Keep the rest, use what you need to bottle this batch and save the rest for the next batch. You could add it to kick up the ABV, but it will also change the flavor and feel on your tongue. Start small grasshopper

If it came with a hydrometer then you might as well learn to use it. Once you have added your water and stirred, right before you add the yeast, fill the tube about 3/4 full, then carefully place the hydrometer in (don't just drop it from above and yell "BOMBS AWAY", they are fragile and can break if they bounce off the bottom of the tube). As for filling the tube, assuming you don't have a wine thief, simply take a piece of sanitized tubing (the bigger the better) and lower it in, cover the end with your thumb and remove, then empty it into the hydrometer tube.

As for the bottling sugar, it is best to add the sugar to a little (1-2cup) boiling water and boil for 10min to sterilize, then let it cool and stir it in. You will want to use your carboy or a bottling bucket for this stage. You want to stir it in to the beer but you don't want to disturb the yeast sediment on the bottom of your fermenter.

Do a search on youtube for no boil beer, it will help ease your worries.

 

[ACbrewer]

Quesiton 1 - sugar. Beer is made from fermenting some type of sugar. Corn sugar is ... well of less desirablity. I'd personally use anhoter can of malt, but the sugar can be used, and for your first beer, you won't notice the problem of using sugar. Generally it is recomended to keep your adjuctungs (ie sugars from sources other than malt) to 20% by gravity of the overall level of fermentables. In this case you are better than 40% (2lb and you should have a 3.3lb can of malt). BUT as I said, you won't notice, I didn't. I was using a Mr.Beer and did about the same thing, only it was 2 gallons not 5.

Question 2 - Take a hydrometer test when it is filled up, before you add yeast - be sure to sanatize anything that touches the wort. Drink the results - tasting is the finall on how good your beer is and tasting in process will help build your knowledge base. This will probably be about 2 to 4 oz depending on what you put your hydrometer into. give it about a week. Take a test and 2 days later take another. If they are the same, fermentation is done. Now you can condition it or go to bottling.

Question 3- carboy/secondary fermenting. You don't need to do a rack to a secondary, but can just let it sit in the primary longer. Main reason most people rack, because they always have. 2nd reason for racking - to add something to the beer - dry hopping, fruit, etc. I generally will go 3 weeks in the primary and bottle.

Qustion 4 and 5. Bottle size doesn't matter. There are 2 good ways of doing sugar. you can get some sugar and mix with hot water, put it in the bottom of a bucket and rack the beer on to that (look up bottling buckets). This mixes the beer with priming sugar and gets good results. Another option is to put sugar in each bottle. The easy way of doing that is with Carbonating Tabs which are basically little sugar candies you drop in the bottle. I bottle in a mix of 12oz and 16oz bottles. if you mix priming sugar into the bottling bucket, problem solved each gets a little sugar from the mix. You can not easily use the primary fermentor as the bottling bucket with this method though. If you stir in the sugar, 2 things happen. You oxidize the beer which you don't wnat to do, and you stir up sediment, which you also don't want to do.

Question 6/last. Temps and times. - 65 to 70 is a good temp for a basic ale. actually 65 is perfect - especially for the primary fermentation. Much colder and the yeast will get slugish. Time wise about 1 week. After bottling the rule of Thumb or the 'Bottling Rule of Revvy' (BRoR?) is "don't ask us about carbonation until after 3 weeks in the bottle at 70F." IF you do we will tell you give it 3 weeks at 70F. Does it NEED all that time? not always, but if you ask before that time has passed, it will be one of the first questions/suggestions. I've had some beers carb up in 7 days and I've had others go 3 weeks. I've had some really high alcohol beers take 8 weeks.

 

[flars]

Forget the sugar you were given. Replace it with spraymalt, if you are located in Europe or DME if you are located in the States or Australia.

The corn sugar can be used for bottle priming.

Here is a link to use as a start for more information.
http://muntonshomebrewdev.m-wpdev.co.uk/?s=spraymalt&submit=Search&post_type=question

Time in the primary given in the general recipe is way to short. Plan for at least two weeks in the primary before you start taking hydrometer reading to find final gravity.

I have to fix supper. Be back, but there are others who can fill in the voids of Muntons' crappy recipes.

 

[flars]

I've searched for answers to my questions in related threads, but don't seem to be finding any that really match my scenario, per se. So I thought I'd share with you guys my situation, in hopes that you could point me in the right direction.

I'm sure some of this is the same redundant stuff that every newbie brings to the table, so apologies in advance. I just want to make sure I don't COMPLETELY screw up my first batch.

I received this home brewing kit for my birthday: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BU7CVM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I also received a 6 gallon stainless steel pot.

I went to my local homebrew shop, who suggested for my first attempt, to try one of the extract kits, as it will get me acquainted with all of this new, fancy equipment. I asked if I required anything else for the brew, and they suggested 2 x 1lb bags of corn sugar.

So I've got a can of Munton's Connoisseurs IPA Bitter, and two 1lb bags of corn sugar.

Step one is to thoroughly sanitize everything. I've got that.

It then says to add the malt extract (softened by putting the can under hot water) to the fermenting bucket, and pour in 3.5 liters of boiling water and stir it up. Easy enough.

It then says to add 1kg (2.2lbs) of sugar (preferably brewing sugar).

QUESTION 1) Is this step referring to the corn sugar I purchased? If so, do I need more if I was sold only 2 lbs and it calls for 2.2lbs?? I don't know whether there's any "wiggle room" in home brewing when it comes to measurements. Or is it perhaps referring to some other kind of sugar altogether? The homebrew shop essentially sent me out the door with the 2 lbs of corn sugar and the extract can saying "This is all you need" and I'm beginning to doubt that.

The corn sugar will boost the ABV over just using the LME. The corn sugar will also thin the body of the beer and give it a cidery taste. Coopers and Muntons both say the sugar can be replaced with DME at a 1:1ratio. Coopers also sells Brew Enhancer 1 and Brew enhancer 2. The difference is #1 has 60% dextrose, 40% maltodextrin and #2 has 50% dextrose, 25% maltodextrin, 25% light dry malt--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Muntons Beer Kit Enhancer is 1kg of a blend of spray dried dextrose and spray dried maltextract which is simply added in place of sugar to any beer kit.

[/COLOR]



It then says to stir everything thoroughly until it's all dissolved through. Okay. Then it says to fill with cold water to bring up to 6 US gallons, and then allow to cool to approx. 65-70 degrees.

Body and flavor can also be enhanced by reducing the fermentor volume to 5 gallons.

Then pitch yeast. and stir.

It then says to allow the fermentation to do its thing. (fermentation is complete when bubbles cease to rise). It also gives the option of using a hydrometer and when gravity remains constant at a number below 1008.

As you know a completed fermentation is determined with stable hydrometer readings.

QUESTION 2) Should I simply give it the 4-6 days to ferment, or should I learn to use this hydrometer and use that? I have one, it came with my kit, so if it would yield better results, I think I should use that, right? It looks like the general consensus is to wait longer than the can suggests for fermentation.

Stable hydrometeer readings and then some time for the yeast to clean up.

If I use a hydrometer, do I just siphon out a bit to test the gravity periodically? How much beer am I tossing out by doing this?

Get a wine thief to remove a sample from your fermentor. The plastic tube your hydrometer came in is for the sample. Drink the sample to taste how your brew is coming along. A turkey baster can also be used to remove the sample.

It then states to siphon the beer into strong bottles or a pressure barrel.

Siphon to your bottling bucket.

QUESTION 3) So for something as basic as using an extract kit, am I essentially bypassing the use of the carboy, and doing all of the fermenting in the bucket? It doesn't mention a single thing in the kit's instructions on transferring to a carboy (unless the "pressure barrel" above is an a.k.a. for that, but I don't think it is). Am I essentially going from bucket to bottles here?

If you have a carboy that will have sufficient headspace, use the carboy as your primary fermentor.

Next step says to add half a teaspoon of sugar per pint to each bottle.

QUESTION 4) Is the sugar I add to each bottle different from the 2lbs of corn sugar I was sold? I have a feeling I need quite a few pinches more sugar than I was sold, haha.

If you did replace the supplied corn sugar with DME in your beer, this will become your priming sugar. Here is a good calculator to use http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/ The best way is to measure how much you will use is by weight.

QUESTION 5) A beer bottle is 12oz, which is less than a pint. Seems like this would make it somewhat tricky in adding this measurement of sugar to the bottles. Hindsight tells me maybe it would have been easier to get something like pint bottles (swingtops or whatever). I have what I have, though, and didn't really pick it out. Do I need to adjust down if I'm putting this in 12oz glasses? I don't imagine this sugar can simply be added to the entire mix prior to bottling, could it?

The volume of prining sugar solution is best added to the bottling bucket, then siphoning from the fermentor on top os the solution.The swirling by the siphon will mix the priming solution in. After the siphoning is complete it can also be very gently stirred for mixing. Careful, don't oxidize you beer by splashing or whirl pooling air in.

Finally, it says to leave the bottles in a warm place for 2 days. Then it says to move them to a cool place for a couple of weeks, or until the beer has become more clear.

FINAL QUESTION: I assume warm place is essentially room temperature, 65-70%. But it doesn't really quantify what constitutes a "cool place". Out in my garage? It's winter and it generally hovers around the high 30s low 40s during the day, and in the 20s at night.

Bottle conditioning will take at least two weeks at room temperature. 70° to 75° is ideal. Lowere temperatures and higher gravit brews will take longer. Chill your first sample bottle for a few days before imbibing. Chilling will force the CO2 produced into solution and give you those nice bubbles and head.

I hope you guys can help out. I'm super excited to get this party started, and just want to make sure I get the right kick out the door. Thanks!

I hope I covered at least some of your questions. Come back if I confused.

 

[PistolaPete]

I've used their kits and have made this one myself. I would advise you to make a 5 gallon batch only to increase flavor and alcohol levels. Be warned this kit is NOTHING like an American IPA but will still make a decent beer you and your friends will like. I would also get a new pack of yeast if you can since the ones that come with kits are usually not in good condition. And like some of the above posters mentioned, don't worry about a secondary, just keep it in the primary for 2-3 weeks and then bottle it and then wait at least 2-3 weeks for best results but you should still try one after 1 week in the bottle just so you can see how much better it will get when you wait another few weeks!

 

[flars]

Muntons' Premium Gold yeast is required when the sugar is replaced with DME according to info on the Muntons site. The standard yeast in the yellow pack doesn't pack enough energy.
Nottingham might be a good choice, but keep the ferment below 64°.

 

[Cyclman]

I would recommend you do an all malt beer with steeping grains and hops next time. Sugar adds alcohol and "dryness", but not much else to the beer. There are great Basic Brewing videos on how to do steeped / malt extract / hop beers.

To me, smelling and watching fresh hops is a big part of the joy of brewing. Doing all grain, down the road, and sniffing my mash tun is equally rewarding.

Easier is not necessarily better/ as enjoyable or engaging.

I have a 3-tier all grain setup. I could have spent tons less and probably made just as good of beer. But I love to fantasize that I am doing it in essence just like a Pro, but on a far smaller scale. Same smells, same ingredients, lesser talent, but that's where my fantasy bridges the gap.

No boil, no hops, no grains = no thank you, for me.

BTW, I am not blaming or trying to offend you at all, you'll still make good beer from a kit, it is just IMO less enjoyable to do it that way.

 

[knightsoftheround]

Oh I'm definitely not opposed to doing the next batch with steeping grains, hops, etc next time. Figured I'd start with something easy and work my way up to the big boy brews, haha.

 

[PistolaPete]

Muntons' Premium Gold yeast is required when the sugar is replaced with DME according to info on the Muntons site. The standard yeast in the yellow pack doesn't pack enough energy.
Nottingham might be a good choice, but keep the ferment below 64°.

I actually did this kit w/ 2 lbs DME and 0.2 lbs of sugar and it did have a sourdough kind of undertone and I think it was because I just used the yeast that came with kit.

 

[srtce142]

It then says to add the malt extract (softened by putting the can under hot water) to the fermenting bucket, and pour in 3.5 liters of boiling water and stir it up. Easy enough.

I disagree with is since I doubt your fermentation bucket is designed to handle the temperature of boiling water. If you were to use the glass carboy instead, it would crack due to temperature shock from the boiling.

My recommendation would be to mix the water and extract in your kettle, cool (with an ice bath for example), and then poor into the fermentation bucket.

Best of luck and welcome to the hobby

 

[knightsoftheround]

Yeah I assumed it implied you should let it cool a bit before dumping it in.

So I bought some no-rinse sanitizer from the shop today, as well as additional sugar for bottling, and am gonna give this a whirl in the coming week. Keep your fingers crossed for me!

 

[knightsoftheround]

I tested out my bottle filler and it seems to work very well. Just attached the hose to the stem on the spigot, and gave a bottle a test fill a few times.Okay. Couple of final questions here:

1) I was planning on doing the fermenting in the bottling bucket, as I'm not sure there's a need for secondary fermentation with one of these basic extract kits. That said, I notice the spigot is about an inch and a half from the bottom of the bucket. At bottling, should I make an attempt to tilt the bucket forward to get the contents out that sit beneath the spigot? Or will this consist of mostly muck and sedement and stuff I don't really want in the bottles?

2) I test the gravity with the hydrometer BEFORE pitching the yeast, right? Then, after a few weeks, I just open the bucket and test it (with santized equipment) a few more times, 3 days apart until I get a consistent read?

3) Several people have mentioned melting the priming sugar down in about a cup of water. Do I add this just prior to bottling? And do I need to stir this up after pouring it in?

 

[flars]

I tested out my bottle filler and it seems to work very well. Just attached the hose to the stem on the spigot, and gave a bottle a test fill a few times.Okay. Couple of final questions here:

1) I was planning on doing the fermenting in the bottling bucket, as I'm not sure there's a need for secondary fermentation with one of these basic extract kits. That said, I notice the spigot is about an inch and a half from the bottom of the bucket. At bottling, should I make an attempt to tilt the bucket forward to get the contents out that sit beneath the spigot? Or will this consist of mostly muck and sedement and stuff I don't really want in the bottles?

Ferment in your primary. You will rack to the bottling bucket after the fermentation is complete in two to three weeks.

2) I test the gravity with the hydrometer BEFORE pitching the yeast, right? Then, after a few weeks, I just open the bucket and test it (with santized equipment) a few more times, 3 days apart until I get a consistent read?

Yes, you will check the Original Gravity before pitching the yeast. If your kit gives an OG then there is no need to check it unless you added additional ingredients.

3) Several people have mentioned melting the priming sugar down in about a cup of water. Do I add this just prior to bottling? And do I need to stir this up after pouring it in?

I usually use two cups of water so the priming sugar solution is less syrupy and mixes with the beer easier. Add the priming solution to the bottling bucket before you siphon the beer. The swirling motion created by racking is enough to mix the solution. You can also gently stir. Gently means no vortex to oxidize the beer.

 

[knightsoftheround]

When checking for final gravity, do I essentially just use the wine thief and suck up a bit more to test? Just open the bucket back up? That won't disrupt anything will it?

 

[knightsoftheround]

Good news is that approx. 26 hours later I've got some activity in the airlock. Lots of bubbles.

 

[flars]

Good news is that approx. 26 hours later I've got some activity in the airlock. Lots of bubbles.

That is great. Now to control the temperature of the fermentation. Your room temperatures are 65° to 70°? 62° to 65° is a very good temperature for the wort during active fermentation. After 4 to 6 days of active fermentation at this temperature you can let the temperature rise.

Fermentation produces heat if the wort is at 65° before active fermentation begins, the temp will rise 3° to 5° with the yeast you are using. Up to 10° for higher gravity brews. Setting the fermentor in a tray or tub of cold water with a cotton towel or sweatshirt over it will keep it cooler. The basic swamp cooler. The evaporating water cools the fermentor. A small fan will cool even more by increasing evaporation.

If you have a stick on thermometer strip on the fermentor, don't cover or submerge it. The wet towel will give you an inaccurate temperature reading. Submerging it will eventually destroy it.


Link to my swamp cooler set up.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/photo/swamp-cooler-61314.html

 

[knightsoftheround]

It's actually been staying around 65 during initial fermentation. At times it's risen to 66 or so.

edit: trying your method to cool it down just a bit. Keeping my eye on the temperature strip, here.

 

[ACbrewer]

When checking for final gravity, do I essentially just use the wine thief and suck up a bit more to test? Just open the bucket back up? That won't disrupt anything will it?

Here is what I do - sanatize sampling device (wine thief, turkey baster). Take some finished beer and put it in a test vessel (usually wine thief cause I have one).
Take hydro reading.
DRINK BEER (this last step is important for 2 reasons - 1 you get to see where you are flavor wise cause that is the only thing that matters and 2 by drinking it, you don't put it back and risk infections.). It will taste a little off because of low carb and being young (aka green).

 

[knightsoftheround]

Okay so we're just over a week since fermentation began, and I'm not seeing much activity from the airlock anymore. Previously, would get a few 'burps' every 45 seconds to a minute, but now it seems as though it's plateaued out just a bit. Temperature has stayed relatively consistent as well. Is this expected? Should I be concerned? Anything I should or should not do? In following the general consensus, here, I was going to leave it for another couple of weeks before bottling.

Thanks!

Nick

 

[johngaltsmotor]

No need to be concerned. Most times fermentation will ramp up (make take 2-3 days depending on # of yeast and their health), plateau for a while (4-7days), then gradually decline as the amount of sugar left to be converted decreases. Now comes the hard part... waiting.

 

[flars]

Okay so we're just over a week since fermentation began, and I'm not seeing much activity from the airlock anymore. Previously, would get a few 'burps' every 45 seconds to a minute, but now it seems as though it's plateaued out just a bit. Temperature has stayed relatively consistent as well. Is this expected? Should I be concerned? Anything I should or should not do? In following the general consensus, here, I was going to leave it for another couple of weeks before bottling.

Thanks!

Nick

Looks like you have accomplished the perfect fermentation. Time and temperature were both good for the best tasting beer. In 5 to 7 days take a hydrometer reading. Take another in two days. If they are the same your fermentation is complete. This is when I give the beer more time to clear and the sediment to form a compact layer at the bottom of the fermentor. Less chance of adding trub to the bottle.

Without the trub in the bottle a nice clean pour is possible. Most yeasts will then form a compact layer on the bottom of the bottle during bottle conditioning.

You could also wait until bottling best suits your schedule. There is no need to rush. Time will not be detrimental to your beer.

 

[knightsoftheround]

Without the trub in the bottle a nice clean pour is possible. Most yeasts will then form a compact layer on the bottom of the bottle during bottle conditioning.

That brings up an interesting point. The spigot on my bottling bucket is about an inch higher than the bottom of the bucket, and I'm wondering if at bottling time, I should bother with anything beneath the spigot, or if that's all just going to be a mess of settled yeast and sediment. Any thoughts on that? Should I tip it forward to get that last drop outta there, or should I consider that collateral damage? Haha.

 

[flars]

I often have more than an inch of sediment in the bottom of my carboys. Your spigot could be covered sitting flat. Perhaps tilt it backward, rock a little bit to move sediment away from the spigot. If the spigot was covered it will be filled with sediment. You will see it on your first bottle fill.

Tilt it back forward toward the end of bottling when you can see the sediment level. Save bottles with some sediment for your palate only.

It would be easier to have a 6 to 6.5 gallon primary to siphon from to the bottling bucket. No sediment to worry about if you're careful with how low the siphon goes.

 

[knightsoftheround]

I often have more than an inch of sediment in the bottom of my carboys. Your spigot could be covered sitting flat. Perhaps tilt it backward, rock a little bit to move sediment away from the spigot. If the spigot was covered it will be filled with sediment. You will see it on your first bottle fill.

Tilt it back forward toward the end of bottling when you can see the sediment level. Save bottles with some sediment for your palate only.

It would be easier to have a 6 to 6.5 gallon primary to siphon from to the bottling bucket. No sediment to worry about if you're careful with how low the siphon goes.

Do you think the sediment would be as high with this being a pure malted extract (i.e. no grain) brew, with no specialty grains or anything? Basically just Muntons from the can? I don't know how the chemistry works, really, but the only 'sedimentary' elements would be the sugar and the yeast that I pitched.

It's my first go, so I'm allowed to ask these elementary questions, right?

 

[flars]

Do you think the sediment would be as high with this being a pure malted extract (i.e. no grain) brew, with no specialty grains or anything? Basically just Muntons from the can? I don't know how the chemistry works, really, but the only 'sedimentary' elements would be the sugar and the yeast that I pitched.

It's my first go, so I'm allowed to ask these elementary questions, right?

I didn't go back and look at all the early posts. You should be okay. Most of the trub in my fermentors is hop debris.